Frankford arsenal mold release

[WALLNUTT]

I do use the old NEI mold prep on my iron/steel molds. But only on the outside and on the sprue plate not in the cavities.I apply it with a Qtip.

[ubetcha]

I had a problem with the sprue plates scarring my LEE moulds also. So what I have done was , remove the plate and work it smooth on a sharpening stone. Then slightly radius all the edges. Drill and tap the side of the moulds for a set screw to lock the sprue plate screw from moving.

[WALLNUTT]

ubetcha ubetcha

[Hardline]

Frankford Arsenal mold release makes a noticeable difference in keeping lead from soldering to the faces and top of the mold. Moly-Dri Lube Plus from Certified Labs works even better. It's more necessary for casting machine molds then hand cast molds as you want to be able to run for hours without having to clean the molds. It will take .0005-.001" off the bullet diameter depending on how thick of a coat you apply. Acetone removes it from the mold very nicely. As far as making bullets drop from the mold easier we've never noticed any difference from the moly, and the other replies are more relevant for that.

[MGnoob]

It's more necessary for casting machine molds then hand cast molds as you want to be able to run for hours without having to clean the molds. It will take .0005-.001" off the bullet diameter depending on how thick of a coat you apply.

I have to agree with hardline. Also others who say it's a miss-named product.

I am going more and more fond of the stuff with my ballisticast mark X.If the projectile are having trouble dropping you have other problems that this product won't address.I use it everywhere other than the cavities, and sparingly on the faces/ventlines..When an autocast is running you can hear if a sprue is being trouble some on one perticulater mold in the set. You can spray it near the sprue bolt and the 2 points on the autocast sprue that contact the "posts".It make a huge difference when used properly, and carefully spayed so it only gets on the molds and not everything else.. I try to make sure all sprue have even pressure/tightening.

I don't really remove it.. i soak all my molds for a very short period in hoppes #9 solvent and would never go near the mold faces with anything other than a wooden toothpick or pencil eraser. when done i wipe as much of the #9 off as possible and wash them off with break free and store that way... I worry overusing or storing the #9 will pit the cavities with time. i think it far more likely i'll wear out the molds before it will be an issue though.

As far as the lockwasher......that's not the right thing for the job.. You wan't one or several "Belleville Spring Lock Washers" like these from mcmaster carr. http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/120/3236/=txct0d

*edit* it can help with the sprue waste sticking to the sprue.. although i'd rather clean this area than keep adding the stuff there.. too much can cause problems and it has tendency to wind up in the cavity spraying it there.