Ruger 1 picatinny

[doorgunner]

I have to agree with 021. A picatinny rail on a clasic rifle like the No1 would be and is an abomination.

[Nobade]

Yep, this is why I don't make them. Years ago I considered the idea, and polled a bunch of Ruger fans for their opinion. Universally I got the "yeah, it will solve lots of problems but it's ugly so I wouldn't buy one." so I never made any. I am glad EGW decided to, so I don't have to.

-Nobade

[Chief]

the offset rings work on this #1. Simple and effective.

[Nobade]

A while back somebody wanted a picture of a #1 with a picatinny rail on it. I finally got my barrel back from Delta Gun Shop and put the #1 back together. Here's a shot of it on my bench.

It's not very pretty but the scope is in the right place, dead nuts lined up with the bore, and doesn't have any stress in it from being bent by the crooked factory rings. The 20 MOA cant is a bonus as well, lets this little pipsqueak rifle (30 Badger) shoot further.

-Nobade

[pietro]

Been looking at that same mount, using a scope with a lot of eye relief now.

BINGO ! ! It's not the Ruger #1 mounts (on which I've never had an eye relief issue over 7 rifles), it's the fact that many of the modern, whizz-bang/beat-all scopes are compacts, which have a much shorter tube (and eye relief) than the older style scope that were common when the Ruger #1 was designed (ca.1968).

.

[EDG]

Not only are they short but the turret is in the middle or a little toward the read on some scopes.
I have an old Burris with the forward turret and long rear tube. It works fine on a # 1.

BINGO ! ! It's not the Ruger #1 mounts (on which I've never had an eye relief issue over 7 rifles), it's the fact that many of the modern, whizz-bang/beat-all scopes are compacts, which have a much shorter tube (and eye relief) than the older style scope that were common when the Ruger #1 was designed (ca.1968).

.

[kitsap]

Nobade,

I am the one that asked. Thank you.

Sometimes function and form are the primary considerations. I do not think it looks that bad.

DougF

[Nobade]

You are welcome.

Looks aside, it sure shoots well and lets me use that nice little Vortex scope that otherwise wouldn't work.

-Nobade

[triggerhappy243]

Nobade. do you run a gunsmith shop?

[Nobade]

Nobade. do you run a gunsmith shop?

Don't own it but work there. www.scorehi.com

-Nobade

[triggerhappy243]

ah, say hello to charlie for me. have known him since 78'

[Nobade]

I will. Who are you? We should meet! Come by some time, I am Andy.

-Nobade

[triggerhappy243]

Name is Sean, out in rio rancho. I shoot out at del norte gun club

[EDG]

>>>"yeah, it will solve lots of problems but it's ugly so I wouldn't buy one."<<<

I think those guys are in the minority. If you are so concerned about the appearance you should not put a scope on a #1.
A scope does little for any rifle's appearance or handling. However the #1 was never set up for a reciever sight or a tang sight. So it is sort of crippled from the sighting standpoint. You either use the factory open sight or a scope.

[triggerhappy243]

talk about a special scope mount for the Ruger #1, I had read somewhere that a 1 piece scope base does not maintain 0 as the rifle heats up. My particular rifle has a custom heavy contour SS barrel. it has 2 piece base that were custom made. not 100 % thrilled with the tolerances, but for what I have, I shoot a 4 inch group at 600 yards all day long if I do my part. the rifle has issues.... but I live with them. want to see how well it groups out past 600 as this primarily is used on prairie dogs.

[Nobade]

Yep, any time a modern scope is mounted on a barrel you are going to have issues with stress being generated as the barrel gets hot and gets longer. There's just no way around it besides using a Unertl type scope that allows the mounts to slide on the scope tube. It doesn't seem to be a big deal for most shooters, but using a #1 on prairie dogs in the summer would possibly put a bit of stretch on your scope. Most likely the rings will slip a hair and come back when it cools and you would never notice it, but it will always be there no matter if it is a 1 or 2 piece base. BTW, that's a impressive and unusual #1 you have there. Hang on to that one! What cartridge does it fire?

-Nobade

[triggerhappy243]

this is one unique piece. it has a krieger S.S. bull barrel slightly tapered down to 7/8 of an inch with a muzzle break. 28 inches long... I think. Air gauged and cryo treated. chambered in what is supposed to be 22-250 ackley improved. but it is more like a 22-250 cheetah MK 3.5. I shoot this one exclusively off a bench while on my p-dog hunts. it is too heavy to pack around. Now I am not naming any names but the person that cut this chamber cut with the wrong reamer and cut too much. the parent round does not even headspace at all. I have a 50% case head failure rate when I tried fireforming the parent cartridge in this rifle with factory ammo. I have to make all my own brass... it is a bit of a b*%@#. but once i get that done I neck size all the fired brass. I currently am shooting Sierra 60 gr. Varminter Hollow Point bullets on 38.3 gr. H-380 powder. I do not load for speed, but rather for group size.

[Nobade]

Hmmm, there are a few #1s running around Albuquerque with "improved" chambers like that. Somebody out there doesn't know how Ackley chambers are supposed to work. I am glad yours works so well once you get cases made for it! Neck up, false shoulder, crush fit and fireform with cream 'o' wheat I imagine? I got to help a guy with a 6mm AR last weekend who had the same problem. It would be handy if gunsmiths understood how this stuff is supposed to work.

-Nobade

[triggerhappy243]

I actually have the guys at Sierra to thank for all the help. they really went out of their way. I tried the cream of wheat blanks thing. I now start with new virgin brass and expand the neck to 6MM, and neck size back down w/ 22 neck sizer creating a false shoulder to headspace on and do a medium load with a cheap bullet to fireform. so far the brass is lasting a long long time. (15 reloads) Now I need to start annealing some of the older brass because getting the expander ball out while neck sizing is getting difficult.

I should point out that I did not hire the gunsmith to do this barrel. I traded a car for the rifle. It is a long story How much of what really happened(what I was told) is true or not.

One of my hobbies is to make rifles that previous owners give up on, to get them to shoot well.