Does anyone seat and crimp separately?

[wvmanchu]

Started using two dies to try and cure a leading problem on my 1911 in 45 ACP. Now do it on all cast loads. Never on Jacketed.

[white eagle]

Most all revo loading is done this way

[imashooter2]

Everything that comes off a progressive and most that comes off a single stage.

[Garyshome]

Yes I do!

[DeadWoodDan]

Not being one who shoots thousands a year but trying to make better more consistent ammo even for plinking have begun to do it in two steps.

dwd

[sniper]

I started reloading with the one-step process, and wondered why I was getting a few bulged cases, which made chambering difficult. I switched to seat and crimp in two operations, and the problem disappeared. I have a seater die for .38 Special, and one for 357 Mag, then use a Dillon Pro-Crimp for taper crimping for plated boolits with no cannelure, so I don't cut the plating, and roll crimping for SWC and J-word...it'll do both.
Another step in the process, but with my single-stage press, I'm not going to set records, and I do make some good ammunition!

[freebullet]

With the pc it is an especially good idea to crimp separate. I've found it quite difficult to do it perfect in one shot with pc boolits.

[W.R.Buchanan]

You will note: that virtually everyone here does it always,,, but some only do it most of the time.

The reason is that it gives you precise control over both operations, which if done together result in a compromise that can work but many times creates other problems.

In short doing it in separate operations simply makes better ammunition.

Randy

[IllinoisCoyoteHunter]

Never, until I had progressive presses that gave me the opportunity to do so (quickly). I made many, many rounds using one die to seat and crimp at the same time. Never had a problem with bulged cases and if I had shaved lead I had my crimp set wrong. A TAPER crimp should not dig into the bullet...it only removes the slight flare put on the case. Nothing more, nothing less. It adds NO extra case neck tension. This topic comes up from time to time. I always wondered how better, more consistent ammunition is made by breaking up the 2 steps.


Is it easier...yes.

Do you have to do it this way...no.

It does make changing boolit styles/weights much easier and faster, I will say that!

[Ben]

I use 2 separate steps and 2 separate dies , ( Seat the bullet 1st, and then finish with the roll or taper crimp in the last step ) , I wouldn't consider doing it any other way.

[km101]

Yes, with separate dies. In both revolver and auto cartridges.

[bgokk]

2 Seperate Operations Every Time.
There are situations that lend themselves to a 1 step operation. But I find it alot easier to skip the trial and error and go for what works everytime.

Me too!

[tg32-20]

I use 2 separate steps and 2 separate dies , ( Seat the bullet 1st, and then finish with the roll or taper crimp in the last step ) , I wouldn't consider doing it any other way.

I have been doing this for years and feel that it produces the best I can do.

Tom

[bedbugbilly]

I only load pistol but I do each operation separately on my Lee 4 hole classic turret. Doing it in the same operation (while I know many do) to me is akin to trying to sit down and pull-up your pants at the same time.

[btroj]

I use 2 separate steps and 2 separate dies , ( Seat the bullet 1st, and then finish with the roll or taper crimp in the last step ) , I wouldn't consider doing it any other way.

Is there any other way? I always use a separate crimp die. Even my 30-30 and 45-70 are crimped with a dedicated crimp die.

[Tn Jim]

Always have in every caliber that needs a crimp.

[Spawn-Inc]

i do for my 500mag, but for everything else (9mm, 45acp, 38spl, 357mag) i do it in one step with lee dies.

[jonp]

Yes. Since the good members on this board recommended that I try it to solve some problems I was having I use the RCBS Carbide to seat and a Lyman to crimp in 2 steps. All of my problems vanished.

[Worn_Holster]

I just got a Lee factory crimp die to use when I load .44 mag. It crimps and resizes as a last step in the process. You really want a roll crimp with your 44 mag. Light loads only need a light roll and heavy loads need a firmer roll crimp. The 3rd die in a normal set is the seating die. If you adjust it correctly, you can make it do anything from a light roll crimp to a heavy roll crimp, but it's kind of a tricky thing to seat and crimp in the same step. At least at first it's tricky until you get the hang of it. The Lee FCD makes doing the crimp even easier. Basically, you use the seater die just to seat the bullet to the right depth. Then you come in with the FCD and apply a perfect crimp just the way you want, and as a side bonus, it resizes the assembled cartridge.

[Fire_Medic]

I just got a Lee factory crimp die to use when I load .44 mag. It crimps and resizes as a last step in the process. You really want a roll crimp with your 44 mag. Light loads only need a light roll and heavy loads need a firmer roll crimp. The 3rd die in a normal set is the seating die. If you adjust it correctly, you can make it do anything from a light roll crimp to a heavy roll crimp, but it's kind of a tricky thing to seat and crimp in the same step. At least at first it's tricky until you get the hang of it. The Lee FCD makes doing the crimp even easier. Basically, you use the seater die just to seat the bullet to the right depth. Then you come in with the FCD and apply a perfect crimp just the way you want, and as a side bonus, it resizes the assembled cartridge.

If your sizing die in step one is setup correctly there's no need to resize again. Also the resizing of the FCD with cast boolits (at least for the pistol cartridges) can be and has known to be problematic.