Or one of these: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/605...case-remover-2
Or one of these: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/605...case-remover-2
I recommend Hornady Unique case sizing lube. Cheap, £4 for a 4oz tub and every bit as good if not better than Imperial sizing wax.
I stay away from spray lubes.
For fine firearms and shooting requisites visit my Web Site by clicking the link below:
Pukka Bundhooks
OK I have resized quite a bit of 7.62 LC match brass that was apparently fired in a 50 BMG machinegun LOL!
I am no stranger to your plight.
Take that die and unscrew the keeper off the decapping pin.
Take it out of the press and screw it back in upside down (ie, screw it up through the press)
Put a piece of steel, or a quarter, on the ram to act as a pusher, and ram the case out of the die with the decapping pin.
First time I did this, I figured "WTH, I've got a lathe right here, I'll just make a new one!" but RCBS surprised me with their quality because to date, I have removed three stuck cases this way. Give it a try! YMMV.
BTW, I'm looking for a toaster oven. Just spent a few hours today with GRrifles, and he taught me how to do it. This is about as easy as breathin, and the boolits look pretty awesome too!
I'm going to see how they run in my M1A, and If I can get god accuracy out of this, then I'm going to be one powder coating fool!
Precision in the wrong place is only a placebo.
I see no real disadvantage to needing gas checks, the advantage of the PC vs. traditional lube lies elsewhere as Popper mentioned (consistent POI through wide temp range, no problematic cold-barrel flyers, no lube melting out of cases in the heat, etc.) Gas checks would be a small price to pay for a more consistent method of HV boolit lubrication.
Gear
"I recommend Hornady Unique case sizing lube"
Natural non-toxic and works. Takes very little to work and easy to remove from brass.
still got the case stuck in the die?
WeiderLaderTV G'day from Australia!
I'd very much like to see the results of your MCC v2.0 formula on 'full power' rifle rounds. For those of us that live in firearm unfriendly countries (Australia) the price of anything firearm related is 2-3 times more expensive then the USA (even more than 3 times expensive in some cases) due to the 'low density market'. Being able to make cheap accurate ammunition is the only way some of us can afford to participate in a sport we love. Not looking for bench rest accuracy but if this concept can produce 1 MOA or slightly under 1 MOA accuracy for 75%+ standard velocity rifle rounds, I'd consider that mission accomplished. Obviously this has a lot to do with the firearm from which it is fired I guess but if you did a comparison with a common jacked round and the MCC 2.0 rounds of the same bullet design/weight that would be a good starting point as that is what you are trying to emulate (at a substantially cheaper cost). Subscribed to your youtube channel and keep up the good work!
I wouldn't chuck that die in the trash just yet. Pull the decapping pin, drill out the primer pocket, tap it. Use two washers on the end of a socket and make a puller out of it. I personally use 1/4-20 bolts as my pullers. Cheap china bolts generally don't work. Grade 8 will. Most of us probably already have the tools necessary to do this. A shot of penetrating oil helps much.
Ebner
Sorry guys...it took a Long time...I know.
Had to work a lot...sorry sorry sorry.
Yesterday I've tested the new bullets and make a Video I've uploaded some minutes ago:
http://youtu.be/XqVgeR_CMBI
Hope you like it.
And sorry again!!!
Nice job on the video.....
Can you tell me your cleaning procedure after you shot? How did it come out?
AG
Also, try bagbalm for your cases as a case lube before you size.... Just a dab will do ya...
Feedback link
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...ght=AlaskanGuy
After Shooting I use to clean my guns with Hoppe's #9...removes all the dirt. The patch come out full of carbon like it would come out when Shooting "regular" bullets. I never notice real paint particles.
Thanks for the hint with the bagbalm...I found it at Amazon.de...not very expensive. I'll give it a try brother.
If someone is willing to send me some 312-155-2R boolits pc'd I would pay for em and do an honest high velocity test. I have a cz 527 that will print an honest 3/4 inch at 100 yards. They dont need sized or checked I can do that, but I would need about a hundred of em.
Just trying to help, this interests me to no end but I am "on the fence"
Josh
Saw the new vid WeiderLader, looks pretty damn good and great shooting. It will be very interesting to see how the boolits progress with the higher velocities. Also would be interesting to see if this concept works with .223 ammo as I've noticed that not many people seem to cast .223 so unsure if anyone has tried powder coating or epoxy paints like this.
http://www.lbtmoulds.com/books.shtml
It has been done many times with different lubes and coatings.
***!!!
Now I Need a new sizing die. So I Need a Little bit more time for the first test and Video...sorry guys.[/QUOTE]
no prob.sharpen a framing nail,tap it under the edge of the brass. the brass will fall out. no damage, the nail is stronger than brass and softer than the die.
I tested about 100 pistol boolits I cast then another member coated for me against the same casting session and my standard loads. I bench rested the 10 ring x 10 rounds with my standard load at 50 yards Conventional pistol B-6 target. Then I shot 5 round groups with increasing powder loads (+0.2 grains) until the accuracy fell off. this took a bit because the point of aim/ point of impact had to be scoped. The outcome: best 10 shot group with the coated boolits: +22% (just inside the 9 ring) at 50 yards
I forgot to change out my ammo and rushed off to the range last week with 10 rounds of my usual loads and 50 of the coated boolits. I shot the coated stuff and after changing my point of aim (10 clicks up!!!) I did okay. I noticed an 'odor' shooting indoor, but the smoke burden was MUCH less than my regular loads.
So, I will continue with my current process for the competition booolits and test drive this powder coating/ epoxy coating process for other things (maybe my daughter's boolits). I hope other Bullseye and bench rest folks try this and post results.
_________________________
DRNurse1
Education is one thing you can give away freely while suffering no personal loss and likely increasing one's own knowledge.
Properly vetted source information prevents GIGO, the scourge of the internet.
So any news on the 223 front? I'm real interested in trying powder coating or any kind of coating that shows potential with .223. I would like to be free from gas checks so I can shoot suppressed without being afraid of the GC coming off and hitting the baffles. I will have the mihec 75gr mold soon and it should allow pretty low velocities while being effective (2200-2300fps should do it)
Add me to the list of people interested in seeing how this project turns out!
This seems like a fun project all around and if it can truly get boolits going 2,500+ no problem then I would very much like to hear about it!
Plus, just think of all the babes I'll pick up when they ask to shoot my rifle and I hand them pink boolits
Sometimes a teacher, always a student.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |