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Thread: Color Coated Rifle Bullets (MCC2)

  1. #21
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bullshop Junior View Post
    I'm not really understanding how this is better/ faster then just a good boolit lube. A lubrisizer machine is pretty fast. I have shot thousands of cast boolits with a good lube at higher velocity with good accuracy and no fouling. I never ever cleaned my Remington 788 223 and all I shot from it was cast, with speed green lube and I shot some pretty hot loads.
    You are not alone. But many people can not achieve good results with high velocity and traditional lubes. I have been chastised for seeing little value in any coating for pistol bullets - but others do see value in it - so one size does not fit all. We each have issues, needs or desires that make one solution better than another. That does means one way is right for everyone.

    Perspective also enters into this. If all you have every done is pan lube, coating is heaven. If you have a Star, you get spoiled by high production rates and anything else looks slow. Again, no one "best" answer.

    Lastly, some people just like being different. Look at all the comments about "pretty bullets". You would think we were an old ladies bridge club-----LOL. Then there are people like me who do not give a damn about looks if the little ******** shoot accurately.

    I do not coat --- yet. But I find these very interesting threads. Coatings seem to hold the best promise for getting cast bullets to a new level of performance.

    Don Verna

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by dverna View Post
    I do not coat --- yet. But I find these very interesting threads. Coatings seem to hold the best promise for getting cast bullets to a new level of performance.

    Don Verna
    I agree. I don't see where they have trodden new ground velocity wise, but I think the potential is there. I always read this stuff, hoping someone has had a breakthrough. The idea of full jacketed velocity and terminal performance, with cast boolits is the HOLY GRAIL as far as I am concerned. I will be among the first to congratulate the intrepid soul who acheives this.
    I'll be a nice to you as you'll let me be, or as mean as you make me be.

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  3. #23
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    works for me






  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by jaysouth View Post
    works for me.
    At what velocity? You pushing those 30's and 35's to over 2400 fps? What kind of accuracy you getting at 100 yards with them? Is the alloy suitable for hunting? I'm not trying to be disparaging. I just haven't seen ANYONE post results with these methods, good enough to make me go buy the gear and start spraying rifle boolits with it.
    I'll be a nice to you as you'll let me be, or as mean as you make me be.

    Polite society started dying the day it was no longer necessary for rude men to physically defend themselves from the consquences of their actions or words.

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by DanWalker View Post
    At what velocity? You pushing those 30's and 35's to over 2400 fps? What kind of accuracy you getting at 100 yards with them? Is the alloy suitable for hunting? I'm not trying to be disparaging. I just haven't seen ANYONE post results with these methods, good enough to make me go buy the gear and start spraying rifle boolits with it.
    Poppers posted his groups from the 308 that were 2400+fps that were pretty good if you ask me. I think it is also about finding the right boolit for the gun before you go paintin goo on it. I know it can be done I just haven't had the time to load a bunch and find what works best. I did get my 45 acp load down however, and it shoots as good as a premium jacketed boolit. Not bad for some junk lead,paint, and a good Mihec mold.

  6. #26
    Boolit Grand Master popper's Avatar
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    DanWalker - MOA @ 100, 2400+ from an AR 308 carbine, not a BR gun. Alloy is ~3% Sb with some Cu added, 31-165B from accurate. I didn't do a chamber cast or anything, just lucked out. Doesn't break after hitting with a 6# hammer so yes it should be a good hunting CB. PC just works, consistently.
    edit: This is a hodgdon jacketed max load of 4895 or 335, 16" bbl. A 24" hunting bbl should get ~2700 with this load. Pretty close to max from a 308. Hope to get to switch to the 24" upper toward the end of the year. We'll see if the accuracy holds.
    Last edited by popper; 10-25-2013 at 06:40 PM.
    Whatever!

  7. #27
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    With a .308 and a Leupold set on 9X, I get 2 inches at 100 yards at 2,200 fps with wheel weight alloy.

    With a .30-30 and iron sights or red dot, I get minute of stop sign (aren't all deer rifles sighted in on stop signs according to anti-gun and anti-hunting liberals?) at 1,800-1,900 fps.

    Next week I will be hunting deer and let you know how they performed, however, I might not get test case on powder coated bullets, my max shot on the current hunting are is 50 yards.

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by DanWalker View Post
    At what velocity? You pushing those 30's and 35's to over 2400 fps? What kind of accuracy you getting at 100 yards with them? Is the alloy suitable for hunting? I'm not trying to be disparaging. I just haven't seen ANYONE post results with these methods, good enough to make me go buy the gear and start spraying rifle boolits with it.
    My "gear" is a half gallon plastic container, lacquer thinner, powder coat and a toaster oven I rescued from the garage.

  9. #29
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    NOW we're talking! Keep it coming fellas. Can't wait to see more results from this...
    I'll be a nice to you as you'll let me be, or as mean as you make me be.

    Polite society started dying the day it was no longer necessary for rude men to physically defend themselves from the consquences of their actions or words.

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by DanWalker View Post
    NOW we're talking! Keep it coming fellas. Can't wait to see more results from this...
    Got you covered, buddy- here's my first PC boolits I ever shot! It's nothing too fancy but I have been shooting them faster and faster since then with no problems at all.

    Finally chrono'd and I have been pushing boolits at up to 2450 from this setup- I have no need or desire to hotrod it, and sure, you CAN do it with traditional lubes, but at that sort of velocity you really do start to see some leading no matter what, in my experience.









    These were the first 6 shots (first was to gauge how "on" the sights were, other 5 were for group- they just happened to be very close together!). Load was just a bottom of the book jacketed bullet load for 150gr data. Bullet was the Lee SKS bullet. I do not use gas checks on these. Distance was measured to be exactly 62 yards afterwards. It's not amazing shooting or amazing distance, but it's good shooting for irons with a commie gun for a bad shot!

    I have shot plain lead accurately in this gun before, but generally it was a nasty smoky affair and while this gun was fine with it, my SKSes were a lot more tempermental. I get perfect function by virtue of being able to use jacketed data, and that's a huge plus to PC for me in autoloaders. Not that you can't get that without PC- you certainly can- but it's a lot easier in my experience.

    Is this conclusive or saying that lubes don't work? Not hardly, but I've been having great luck with them in this and other guns and I've shot great groups with traditional lube too. Maybe I'll get some pics of the groups my Contender in .30-30 and .44 have been getting sometime this week!

  11. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by dverna View Post
    Lastly, some people just like being different. Look at all the comments about "pretty bullets". You would think we were an old ladies bridge club-----LOL. Then there are people like me who do not give a damn about looks if the little ******** shoot accurately.
    Don Verna
    I'm one of the old ladies, except I'm not an old lady. No doubt 'pretty boolits' looks way beyond silly to many. After the primary objective of excellent functionality is secured it can then be a secondary part of the fun of shooting. I like hotsauce on about everything but not for nutritional value.

    I'm mostly a handgun shooter and have a goal to use PC to get 357mag full jacketed velocity from my homemade boolits. I'm making them black, but shiny black because I like it better than flat.

    On second thought maybe I am an old lady!
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  12. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by el34 View Post
    I'm one of the old ladies, except I'm not an old lady. No doubt 'pretty boolits' looks way beyond silly to many. After the primary objective of excellent functionality is secured it can then be a secondary part of the fun of shooting. I like hotsauce on about everything but not for nutritional value.

    I'm mostly a handgun shooter and have a goal to use PC to get 357mag full jacketed velocity from my homemade boolits. I'm making them black, but shiny black because I like it better than flat.

    On second thought maybe I am an old lady!
    With the 357 there should be no issue getting full power jacketed loads to shoot with just a regular lube. I have shot a lot of 357 and other handguns full bore with lead and no issues even with a plain base bullet.

    I don't know, but for me, if you have something that works I tend to stick with it. If I remember correctly my pet load for my 223 was shooting a 55gn cast at 2900fps with no issues as far as leading/fouling

  13. #33
    Boolit Master el34's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bullshop Junior View Post
    With the 357 there should be no issue getting full power jacketed loads to shoot with just a regular lube. I have shot a lot of 357 and other handguns full bore with lead and no issues even with a plain base bullet.
    Thanks. I've never tried to top out my cast loads simply because forever the load data for lead is gentler than for jacketed. And I don't have a chrono.

    Too many tests to do, too little time. At least for now
    "The urge to save humanity is almost always a false front for the urge to rule." --H. L. Menchen

  14. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by WiederladerTV View Post
    The coating still based on an epoxy but without a dry lubricant. I apply the epoxy by tumble lube method two times. After the first coat I let them air dry and only cure them in the oven after the last coating. Then I apply the "lube" a very cheap solution normaly used in the household. Size them when dry and repeat the "lube" process. That's it.

    Powder coating bullets works great but you have to place every single bullet on a tray...enough space to each bullet so the powder covers every part of the bullet. A Little shake and a bullet drop of the tray and you have to repeat the hole process. Further you waste more powder. This increase the cost for the coating. Just my 50 Cents.
    Welcome WiederladerTV. Quite a few of us watched your original video and were inspired to use Klass Kote epoxy paint to achieve the same results as you were getting. We all seemed to come to the same conclusion that adding the dry lube was an unnecessary step, though, with most of us skipping it. Also, the oven cure is purely optional, as letting it air dry also works, though it takes longer.

    With regards to powder coating, you are addressing powder coating using a spray gun. But, there is a tumble application as well. Mixing powder paint with lacquer thinner gives a paint similar to epoxy paint - though it DOES require oven curing. That method, I find, is a bit easier than the Klass Kote method. And, using Harbor Freight paint (around $5/lb) is VERY inexpensive to do. You can find threads talking about this method (look for Piglet Coating).

    Once again, welcome. I am looking forward to hearing the results of your experiments!

  15. #35
    Boolit Grand Master popper's Avatar
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    Echd - good shooting. Wish these old eyes could do that, I have to use a scope. If that's 7.62x39 it's already hot rodded (2450 x 150 gr, no GC). I think we are building a good amount of evidence that coated boolits work extremely well for HV rifle and have advantages. We need to focus on technique, fps & accuracy reporting, let the naysayers do whatever they want.
    Whatever!

  16. #36
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    As with all things scientific, your results must be repeatable by anyone using your methods. I'm sure we've ALL run into our share of "500 yard 1/2 MOA" rifle BS artists. That's why documentation is so important. I really want to see this stuff work. I want to watch those boxes of 30 caliber nosler partitions gather dust on my shelf, as I abandon them for a superior cast boolit.
    I'll be a nice to you as you'll let me be, or as mean as you make me be.

    Polite society started dying the day it was no longer necessary for rude men to physically defend themselves from the consquences of their actions or words.

  17. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by prickett View Post

    With regards to powder coating, you are addressing powder coating using a spray gun. But, there is a tumble application as well. Mixing powder paint with lacquer thinner gives a paint similar to epoxy paint - though it DOES require oven curing. That method, I find, is a bit easier than the Klass Kote method. And, using Harbor Freight paint (around $5/lb) is VERY inexpensive to do. You can find threads talking about this method (look for Piglet Coating).

    Once again, welcome. I am looking forward to hearing the results of your experiments!
    Sounds great. Have to try it. Thanks brother.

    Today I wanna reload my first 50 rounds for the test.
    I shake my Hornady One Shot lube and spray it on the brass. I've wait for roud about five minutes and then I would start sizing my .308 brass. Here you can see the result of the first case...

    Click image for larger version. 

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    ***!!!

    Now I Need a new sizing die. So I Need a Little bit more time for the first test and Video...sorry guys.

  18. #38
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    Been there, done that!

    I try to stay away from the aerosol lubes for rifle cases or anything that needs some real leverage. I sometimes spritz a bit on large batches of handgun or straightwall rifle brass just to smooth up the operation, though!

  19. #39
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    @Echd

    You're ammo Looks like a libstick from my wife...fantastic. The results on target are great.
    Thanks for sharing your pics with us.

  20. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Echd View Post
    Been there, done that!

    I try to stay away from the aerosol lubes for rifle cases or anything that needs some real leverage. I sometimes spritz a bit on large batches of handgun or straightwall rifle brass just to smooth up the operation, though!
    I'll stay away from this stuff in future too.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check