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Thread: Pat's check maker

  1. #1
    Boolit Master lead chucker's Avatar
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    Pat's check maker

    I was using Pat's check maker to make 44 checks the other night and while punching discs the thing would bind up. I'm thinking a guy should clean it every 100-150 discs. What I think is happening is you get aluminum dust or fine shavings from the disc cutting step caught between the main die body and the inner body. Any one have this problem? I did try rotating every thing to find the sweet spot but now still binds.
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    Do you ever use any lubrication? Just asking.
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    Moderator Emeritus JeffinNZ's Avatar
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    Have you checked for any burrs on the cutter and anvil? How thick is the material and what metal? I know that thin Cu can be troublesome.
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  4. #4
    Boolit Master Lead Fred's Avatar
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    Ive never cleaned any of mine

    Just keep popping them out.
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    Boolit Buddy abqcaster's Avatar
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    I get flakes, because I haven't got the hang of making an optimally wide strip to work from and I'm too cheap to buy it pre-made from Yonky. :P I just blow into it a few times and keep it lubed. I also knocked off the burrs in the feed slot with a bit of emery paper.
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  6. #6
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    Never had to clean the disk punch, but I do have to periodically clean the forming punch or the completed gas check will fuse itself to it. I use a small bronze brush to clean it off and rub a little beeswax on it and then nothing binds.

  7. #7
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    I have had mine to bind and found that if I went to a thicker material it fixed the problem.My check maker works fine with anything above .009 and starts to bind with material smaller that .009

  8. #8
    Boolit Master HARRYMPOPE's Avatar
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    The die parts are not hardened on mine and the die body was rather rough and did the same thing.I had a buddy chuck it in his lathe and clean it up.it is fine now.
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  9. #9
    Boolit Master lead chucker's Avatar
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    Thanks for the all the info. I will try to polish up the dies. I had to wait along time to get this tool so I don't want to damage it.
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  10. #10
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    I have Pat's PB checkmaker's in 44 and 41.
    designed to use thin material like Popcans.
    Yes I do get aluminum 'dust' after 50 or so punches, btw, I punch two at a time (double thickness), I find I get a cleaner shear that way. I use a Q-tip with Bullplate to wipe out the die body periodically, it gets the crud out and then lubes the die at the same time.
    good Luck,
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  11. #11
    Boolit Master


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    I blow mine out with air and lube about every session. I've also found that they tend to "wear in" after about 500 checks. Any binding can usually be cured by hitting it with fine emery paper lightly.

    My .35 PB set must have made 10K, the .44PB about 4K and the .30PB maybe 5K. Nothing but good results.

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  12. #12
    Boolit Buddy
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    It also helps to keep the punch sharp.

  13. #13
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    Sounds like there may be a problem with that set of dies.

    The dies should work with soda can metals with no problems. Thin metals to soft will cause a problem, and are not stiff enough for the process. Since you are manufacturing your own gas checks, you need to use suitable metals. If you still have issues with them, send them back and I will take care of it and send you out another set, or fix them. You do need to clean the dies with use.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master lead chucker's Avatar
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    I've been using yonky's material .0145. The tool cuts the disk no problem actually does a really good job. When you lower the punch is when It hangs up. One thing I really like about the way this punches the disks is it leaves a bur around one side of the disk and when I form the the check I put the bur side up and it seems to really grip the boolit when I seat the check.
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  15. #15
    Boolit Buddy
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    Just a thought. Mine was hanging up also. I needed to back out the set screw that holds the punch in when you form the checks. It had vibrated in from the jar of cutting the disks.

  16. #16
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    Are you making dies for 30 cal yet. I have your 35 dies and I need 30 for my 308 oops forgot also 22 cal

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by lead chucker View Post
    I've been using yonky's material .0145. The tool cuts the disk no problem actually does a really good job. When you lower the punch is when It hangs up. One thing I really like about the way this punches the disks is it leaves a bur around one side of the disk and when I form the the check I put the bur side up and it seems to really grip the boolit when I seat the check.
    And the little burr helps in separating the disks as you pick them up to punch the check in the 2nd punch step. The slight ridge helps me in sitting the disk into the punch for swaging the cup.

    Mustang

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by cardonasharp View Post
    Are you making dies for 30 cal yet. I have your 35 dies and I need 30 for my 308 oops forgot also 22 cal
    Been making 30 caliber dies for 5 years now...

    Email for details, questions, and orders. Thanks...

  19. #19
    Boolit Master
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    The .30 dies are GREAT!!! I have been using mine for a while now and the accuracy beats the store-bought ones that I have a few left over of. Also waiting for the .22 to become available, but have other things to get paid off with Christmas coming up and all so couldn't get them right now no matter what anyway. Need some more PB dies too... I can see where this is going, and I like it.
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  20. #20
    Boolit Master

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    I have 3, 35 PB, 45 PB, and 30 regular. I have a short handle that holds bore brushes. I wrap a patch around an old nylon bore brush and swap the tool every 100 or so checks. I've used each of the dies so much that I've become quite practiced at honing the punch to keep it sharp. Like a good blade, keeping it dressed takes only a little time if done frequently. I really like my dies and am very much looking forward to seeing the 22 CheckMaker added to the production list.
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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check