I deprime first. So the first time I got media stuck in the flash hole with a primer inserted before I noticed the block, I decided to experiment and fill with powder anyway. Well primer popped out the media and ignited the powder just fine.
We do it differently, Pistol is easy.. but rifle you can deprime, tumble (for me in SS media) and then I come back and size after I uniform the flash hole and primer pocket (but I shoot LONG distances). Once sized, I'll toss it back into the tumbler and tumble for about 30 minutes to cut the lube. One caveat, with uniformed primer pocket (large pistol and rifle), you need to watch for pellets in the flash hole. It does happen from time to time with properly uniformed flash holes.
I made a hand decapping tool that looks like a pair of needle nosed pliers. I deprime everything wash dry and tumble. A base with a recess of case dia and a pin of inside neck dia with a decapping pin set in it can be used with a hammer but is slow. I have seen pliers made up to do this also. I make mine out of aluminum flat stock so they are light and easy to handle.
I have read that most of the exposure to lead during reloading is due to spent primers. When you tumble with the primers in the lead can be powdered and easily breathed. I don't know if this is true, but it is one chance I don't need to take. I also don't like running potentially dirty brass through my sizer. So I have a Lee universal depriming die and all cases get deprimed first. Then I clean pockets with a primer pocket uniformer. This also makes repriming easier and seating more uniform. I then tumble the brass until good and clean, then resize. Although most pistol calibers may not have to be lubed to size, it sure makes it much easier to lube every 5-10 pieces. Then I will trim cases if necessary and tumble again for a few minutes to an hour to remove all the left over lube. Be sure to check all flash holes afterwards. A paper clip or another trip through the universal deprimer clears them easily. Every piece of brass I load is treated the same, rifle or pistol. I know this adds several steps to the process, but it is safer than possibly breathing lead and I enjoy the entire reloading process. I have more time than money, so I just go out to the shop have a grand old time.
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I tumble, size, then tumble again if case lube was used.
I poke media out of the flash holes not for safety reasons but because I want to do all I can to ensure consistant ignition.
I know I have forgotten to clear the flash holes in the past and noticed no difference.
I always tumble BEFORE resizing. Who know what grit could lurk on a fired case and possibly damage your die? But for all bottlenecked cases I give them a SECOND tumbling to remove the case lube, before priming them, putting in the powder, and seating the bullet. One tumbling is good enough for any straight walled cases as I have carbide sizers for all of those and don't used case lube.
You can read just about anything you want too on the internet. I read this somewhere in the past but do not remember where. I do not know if there is any truth in that statement, but it sounded like it might have some validity so I thought, why take the chance? As reloaders and shooters we should ALWAYS be concerned about safety. Since I already had the universal deprimer, why not go ahead and get those little boogers out and not worry about them? I also forgot to mention that after I deprime, if the brass is at all dirty or tarnished I will soak it in about 40% vinegar 60% water for several hours and rinse and dry them prior to tumbling. Talk about shinny brass!
I load with a 550b so tumble first. {walnut haul]
and i don't want any dirt in my dies.
the de-priming pin makes sure the the primer hole is clear.
load all the way then tumble to take of the lube.{corn cob]
What I hand-load; .380acp; 9mm/9mmR; 38/357mag; 45acp;
223rem(5.56mm); 22-250rem; 243win; 6.5 Grendel; 270 win; 30-30win; 308win; 45-70gov.
on the list to start Loading; 30-06 springfield; 222 rem; 6.5x55 swedish
"You might be a gun nut if you load 45-70 on a progressive press" -HICKOK45<- was he talking about me!?!
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I'm loading on a 550b also. I wet tumble with the old ceramics I started with 15 years ago before I do anything else. Any primer residue is suspended in water and washed away. The cases are clean for my sizing die, only drawback is no cleaning of the primer pocket. I can't see where the crud builds up in the primer pocket. They always look the same to me weather they were once fired or 10 times fired? I have no problem seating the primers right down to where they belong. RCBS X-die is magic also so after initial trimming no more. I am not lazy and enjoy reloading but shortcuts in brass prep are always welcome.
I use walnut lizard bedding fromPetco, cheap and fine enough it doesn't lodge in flash holes. I also use Nufinish and add some mineral spirits. Throw in a cut up dryer sheet and no dust. I've been doing all deprimed then tumble, but I'm thinking I will save a step and start tumbling with primers then run through on progressive, pistol only that is.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |