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Thread: Installing mercury recoil suppressor in synthetic stock

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
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    Installing mercury recoil suppressor in synthetic stock

    I was given a recoil suppressor and wish to put it in a Handi Rifle's synthetic stock. Easiest way would be using epoxy, but I am wondering if this method would provide long lasting adhesion since there would be minimal contact between metal tube and stock.

  2. #2
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    Winger Ed.'s Avatar
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    I'd install & stuff it with something first without epoxy to be sure ya like it.

    Of the couple I've seen, they weren't sealed/glued in permanently anyway.
    All ya need to do is keep it from moving around.
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  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    All ya need to do is keep it from moving around.
    Spray adhesive foam perhaps.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    I have greased them up with crisco, wrapped in saran wrap and used expansion foam. The maximum expansion is the lightest. The crisco and saran wrap were in case the user wasn't happy with it.
    (Wrap the stock in saran wrap first also.....ask me how I know)

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  5. #5
    Boolit Master


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    If the recoil reducer has a shoulder buy a short piece of automotive hose to fit around the reducer and long enough to reach to either the front or rear of the opening in the buttstock, depending on which way you want to turn it for balance.
    Good Luck,
    Rick

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
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    I am falling with the few above, this would be treated as a test run. Dummy in with heater hose, wrap, whatever, and move on intellectually from there. Honestly I think hose or a wrap would be my choice, needle nose out and get to stock bolt. We never change our minds?

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
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    Thank you, gentlemen, for the good tips.

  8. #8
    Boolit Grand Master
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    ! Don't glue it ! Pull the recoil pad off, and while you are at it, you might as well tighten the through bolt to the back of the receiver and insert a felt pad. Doesn't have to be very thicket just some kind of pad between the recoil reducer and the head of the bolt. Wrap the reducer in tape to the point it doesn't rattle around in the hole in the stock and insert it in. Take a long wooden dowel (the same diameter of the hole - wrap it, too if needed) and push the reducer in. Take a pencil and scribe a line around the wooden dowel (it will give the correct angle & length that way) and then cut along your line. Insert the newly cut dowel and reattach the butt plate. Viola - done. It will hold the reducer in place, be quiet, and if the stock ever has to come off - you can disassemble with ease.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
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    The stock is synthetic and hollow.

  10. #10
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    Walter Laich's Avatar
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    I made an aluminum spacer that goes between the shock and recoil pad. with a short section of hose to keep the suppressor from moving the spacer keeps everything nice and tight--didn't want to deform the recoil pad

    love mine--cowboy action shooting, though it weighs a ton--which is why the recoil is 'gone'
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  11. #11
    Boolit Master
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    What about some clear silicone? Stick it in as far as it will go on a pool and smear a little around and over.

  12. #12
    Boolit Grand Master
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    It's the thru-bolt feature that makes this one a tricky one to address. If the stock never has to come off, then filling it with acru-glas, etc.is fine. Glue it in place and it will work great. If the rifle ever has to come apart for repairs or such, you have a bigger problem. I did one on a hollow stock, bolt action gun once. I fitted a length of PVC plumbing pipe inside the stock so as to receive the mercury recoil reducer and then filled the entire remaining hollow area with acre-glass. That was so the merc tube could be inserted or taken out as needed. Made for a very solid and quiet rifle stock. Those hollow stocks kind of ring out when struck. Fill 'em up and they are very quiet.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master
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    Spray foam in the can works well also, just need to protect areas and trim when done. No big deal on trimming and takes it from hollow tap to a thud.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master
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    I've decided to fill the stock paver's sand and not use the mercury recoil reducer.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master
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    I glued one in the forend, way more effective than the butt
    I used 2ton epoxy, scuff up the surface of the plastic, wipe with mek, repeat, then put in a little epoxy, put the tube in, then fill with epoxy.
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  16. #16
    Boolit Master
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    i once made a wooden insert that goes inside the stock for a snug fit; then drilled for the reducer. note: when doing so install a eye-bolt at the back so that you can remove the wooden block when it is getting tight.

  17. #17
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by akajun View Post
    I glued one in the forend, way more effective than the butt
    I used 2ton epoxy, scuff up the surface of the plastic, wipe with mek, repeat, then put in a little epoxy, put the tube in, then fill with epoxy.
    You're saying that a mercury bulb in the fore end didn't affect balance? Or is it better because it reduced recoil more efficiently?
    How did you fit it in a fore end?
    What sort of rifle?

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  18. #18
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by cwtebay View Post
    You're saying that a mercury bulb in the fore end didn't affect balance? Or is it better because it reduced recoil more efficiently?
    How did you fit it in a fore end?
    What sort of rifle?

    Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
    oh no it affected balance, not that bad though. putting it up front helped control recoil and muzzle flip better than in the butt. glued it right in the hollow of the forend but you could always carve out a hollow in the forend and do the same. It was a 35 whelen Handi Rifle Synthetic. without a doubt the hardest kicking gun I've ever shot and I've shot Africa guns and hunted with a 10 gauge double barrel before for geese. 5 shots a day was all I could take, just a bad stock design for such a light flippy gun in a heavy caliber. After threading a muzzlebrake and installing the Mercury tube, if felt about like a 308.
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