Making that Bullet Collator

[Anuccite]

Main_Body_M634JS

As an FYI.... the link in the User manual for the 645JS does not bring you to the Greartisan motor.... It's a different brand.... Mounts may be the same.

Side note, Printing that base VS the JGY370 I'm finding that I can't use the same screws to secure the (F) Drop hole adapter... What size screws do you recommend for that?

Edit: My Screws are Tiny... like 1.5x7mm

[GWS]

Thanks GWS. That priming tool looks pretty cool. Not sure it is something I would use. But just looking at the design it appears that it would be a direct interface to the APP parts already made.

I like my RCBS APS bench primer best so far, but LEE's case feeder feature is a real tempter. They are obviously using the APP base, so the next question is why oh why didn't they just offer a priming option for the APP. They think everyone has unlimited bench space?......or storage for quick change mounted tools for that matter.

OK just posted what will be the final version of the large base up plate and funnel. There a are quite a few changes to make it more reliable. I am posting a video that shows the angle I am running the feeder at and how fast I can successfully go with it.

Really nice! Perfecto! I need to coax my nephew into making me anuther couple of steel tube mounts!.....I may eventually have trouble getting to my books behind all the collators!

[GWS]

Hi all,
I just sent that same note to GWS. Here's an example of a mirror sold by Inline Fabrication (BTW, Dan makes some great stuff!) I'm planning on making something similar, except using acrylic mirror sheets as they are much lighter than glass, and you can cut/drill them easily.
Ed

I am on the cheap side.....$6 was a factor....I like the 12" size and the acrylic mirrors that size are more. The mount is because I have shelves. I notice many didn't feel the need for shelves, and I'm thinking where's all the other goodies stored?

I found and used these "Z" shelf supports for my garage shelves. Placed every 4' or so. Made it really simple for lazy people like me. But they only come in 36 pieces.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/WFX-Utili...hoC4iEQAvD_BwE

Cheapest price I found.....maybe people could do an order together.... I used 4 over my 8' bench. 4 more on another wall. Years ago when I bought mine, a lumber yard had them by the piece.....can't find such today....just 36 at a time. Then I just ripped a 3/4" sheet of plywood into 4 12" strips......done but the edging. Tuff as nails galvanized steel Z shelf standard.

[TylerR]

Really nice! Perfecto! I need to coax my nephew into making me anuther couple of steel tube mounts!.....I may eventually have trouble getting to my books behind all the collators!

I am going to drop a new release today sometime that will have all the latest for APP and brass base up.

[Anuccite]

Quite a size difference between the JGY370 and the Greartisan Motors....

[lostpilotz]

What size wire are ya'll using to wire all the electronic components together?

[o416]

What size wire are ya'll using to wire all the electronic components together?

That depends on the amps running through your system, mainly your motor.

I have used a combination of 18 and 22 gauge with no issues.

[lostpilotz]

That depends on the amps running through your system, mainly your motor.

I have used a combination of 18 and 22 gauge with no issues.

I am using this motor - https://www.grainger.com/product/DAY...r-12VDC-52JE51 with this - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 power supply. I have some 20ga garage door wire laying around

[o416]

I am going to drop a new release today sometime that will have all the latest for APP and brass base up.

Did you post new files? I still see 1.3.4

[TylerR]

Did you post new files? I still see 1.3.4

No. I hit a bump with the base up and am still working on it.

[tanders]

So, Just a nice little progress jump on how my motors are operating. I am using an Arduino motor shield and reading the power consumption of the motors. If the actual power consumption is higher than allowable (adjusted with a potentiometer) the power to the motor is shut off and an LED light turns on.

https://imgur.com/VvMJm5T

[TylerR]

So, Just a nice little progress jump on how my motors are operating. I am using an Arduino motor shield and reading the power consumption of the motors. If the actual power consumption is higher than allowable (adjusted with a potentiometer) the power to the motor is shut off and an LED light turns on.

https://imgur.com/VvMJm5T

I must say that is a very cool electronics setup you created there. I apologize for not responding to your PM right away but I have been working 14 hour days this weekend.
Based on the pics you sent me that setup is way beyond most peoples knowledge to understand. You would have to put together a pretty detailed diagram and description for anyone else to recreate.

Very very cool though.

[bigmike111]

Hey guys, I’m back trying to finish getting my collator set up for base down 223 but have been running into some issues. I’m using HPBT bullets and I have a good amount in the plate that are base up and not catching the slide plate and dropping base up as well as bullets that are base down being flipped to base up.

I’ve tried adjusting the slide plate with a set screw, adjusting the speed of the motor as well as the angle. Is there an optimal angle? Are HP/boat tails harder to get to work properly? Is there an optimal angle for base down?

Also this last test I had some issues with getting bullets stuck, I actually damaged the collator plate from the Grainger motor with a drilled roll pin. I noticed that the plate is extremely loose with the drilled shaft and wonder if that’s causing some issues. Contemplating making something to center the plate better or possibly switch to the hex plates.

I think I may have printed the slide plate and the ramp in 0.2, not sure if this matters but I think I’m going to re-print at 0.12.

I might even try a different bullet/caliber and come back to 223.

Mike

[TylerR]

Hey guys, I’m back trying to finish getting my collator set up for base down 223 but have been running into some issues. I’m using HPBT bullets and I have a good amount in the plate that are base up and not catching the slide plate and dropping base up as well as bullets that are base down being flipped to base up.

I’ve tried adjusting the slide plate with a set screw, adjusting the speed of the motor as well as the angle. Is there an optimal angle? Are HP/boat tails harder to get to work properly? Is there an optimal angle for base down?

Also this last test I had some issues with getting bullets stuck, I actually damaged the collator plate from the Grainger motor with a drilled roll pin. I noticed that the plate is extremely loose with the drilled shaft and wonder if that’s causing some issues. Contemplating making something to center the plate better or possibly switch to the hex plates.

I think I may have printed the slide plate and the ramp in 0.2, not sure if this matters but I think I’m going to re-print at 0.12.

I might even try a different bullet/caliber and come back to 223.

Mike

You did not mention who's files you are using but the quickest way I can help you is to post a video.

[bigmike111]

Using your 1.2 files.

I have some videos I will upload and post shortly.

[bigmike111]

[TylerR]

Using your 1.2 files.

I have some videos I will upload and post shortly.

Very helpful. I see a number of things going on. First off, your slide plate is pulled out too far. That is why some nose downs are not falling off the ridge and flipping. Second, you are not running the feeder at quite enough angle. And lastly, I think you need to print a taller collator plate. The bullets seem a bit tall for the stock plate. What grain are they? Also, if you generate a new plate you can adjust the shaft and slot diameter to tighten things up.

[bigmike111]

Very helpful. I see a number of things going on. First off, your slide plate is pulled out too far. That is why some nose downs are not falling off the ridge and flipping. Second, you are not running the feeder at quite enough angle. And lastly, I think you need to print a taller collator plate. The bullets seem a bit tall for the stock plate. What grain are they? Also, if you generate a new plate you can adjust the shaft and slot diameter to tighten things up.

These are 62 Grain. I tested the slide plate at several different lengths. If it was all the way in it was flipping just about everything regardless of orientation, this is the best I could get it to not catch the boat tail.

What is the optimal angle for the feeder?

I need to print another plate anyway as this one is damaged. Will the taller plate work for 55grain bullets or is it too high?

I am going to re-print some parts and circle back.

[TylerR]

These are 62 Grain. I tested the slide plate at several different lengths. If it was all the way in it was flipping just about everything regardless of orientation, this is the best I could get it to not catch the boat tail.

What is the optimal angle for the feeder?

I need to print another plate anyway as this one is damaged. Will the taller plate work for 55grain bullets or is it too high?

I am going to re-print some parts and circle back.

When you are dealing with very little difference between the base of the bullet and the point diameter wise, it is going to be tricky to find the sweet spot. That is the situation with BTHP. For bullet feeding 45 degrees of tilt should be good, but play around with it. The taller plate should work fine for the shorter bullets.

Just to add, I have suspected the pivot point concept I came up with for feeding brass base up would help in these situations with BTHP and beveled based cast boolits, but I have never experimented with it.

[bigmike111]

When you are dealing with very little difference between the base of the bullet and the point diameter wise, it is going to be tricky to find the sweet spot. That is the situation with BTHP. For bullet feeding 45 degrees of tilt should be good, but play around with it. The taller plate should work fine for the shorter bullets.

Just to add, I have suspected the pivot point concept I came up with for feeding brass base up would help in these situations with BTHP and beveled based cast boolits, but I have never experimented with it.

Thanks, I will look into it.

Another question, I am playing around with the Collator Generator in Open SCAD and noticed for 223 the manual says set the caliber to 5.69, however, I am only able to enter whole numbers here. Am I missing something here or is there something better to be using to generate the plates?