simple Hi-Tek coating

[leadman]

Popper, the boolits in the recent test are straight linotype that was heat treated for 1 hour at 425 degrees and left to age about a week. The boolits I overcooked were heat treated at 400 degrees IIRC for 1 hour. The Red Copper turned brown and flaked off when hammered. I did get some boolits to heat treat a little harder by using 375 or 350 degrees for an hour. Gained some but not as much as the 475 degrees would have done.
The alloy plays a real important part in maintaining heat treated hardness after coating from what I have found so far. I am going to add some more lino to my 50-50 COWW/lino to see if I can change the results.

[gunoil]

RDP, the 380's scale at 108. As you see, no lube groove. They shoot great, luv-em.

Yea, flat base.

[swheeler]

I noticed yesterday at the range that the first boolit in a group was always out of the rest of the group. i have been shooting 3 shot groups to save my neck (deterioration and arthritis). I have been pushing a dry patch thru the bore after each 3 shot group and I think this is causing the first shot to be out, so remember this as all shots are included in the group sizes. I also had problems with my Leadsled and my sons AR as the rear sling loop on the side of the buttstock was hitting part of the Leadsled. I tried stuffing things between the Leadsled and the buttplate but it did not help much.
All the boolits were coated with the Red Copper Hi-Tek.
Here are the results of my range session yesterday:
Savage 30-06 200grs, 314299 GC'd, Heat Treated Lino 32BHN, sized .311", Reloder 17 powder, Fed 210 primer, 3.3" oal.
charge avg vel. group size 100 yards
45grs no reading 1,835"
46grs no reading 4.958"
47grs 2,397 fps 1.469"
48grs 2,396 fps 4.921"
49grs 2,483 fps 3.75"
50grs 2,484fps 3.395"
51grs 2,508 fps 6.0" + This charge is max per Alliant for jacketed

AR15 in 5.56, 16"? barrel, Lyman 45gr RN GC'd, Heat Treated Lino, Sized .225", H4895, WSR, 2.025", crimped
Charge Avg Vel. Group Size 100 yards
22.5grs 2,502 fps 2.916"
23grs 2,603 fps 4.06"
23.5grs 2,596 fps 1.230"
24 grs 2,666 fps 3.386"
24.5grs 2,754fps 2.450" This load is over 3,100 fps in my 23" Contender

Contender 23" Heavy Barrel in 223 Rem. 45gr Lyman RN, Heat Treated Lino, GC'd, sized .225", H4895, WSR, 2.02".
Charge Avg Vel. Group Size 100 yards
24.5grs 3,159 fps 3.812"
25 grs 3,272 fps 3.682"
25.5 grs 3,346 fps 1.830"
26 grs 3,360 fps 3.256"
26.5grs 3,400 fps 2.907"
27grs 3,460 fps 2.482"
27.5grs 4,489 fps 2.181" Two tiny specks of lead on the dry patch

All of the top charges in the 3 guns was at max case expansion. Temperature was also about 114 degrees when we finished firing the groups.

I doubt it

[Ausglock]

I'd say, Fat finger and tiny keys ????

[Love Life]

I get that velocity all the time from my 1911. No big deal.

[gunoil]

big hat, no cattle.




"i dont know what you'all are talking bout, hehehe, but i like that sayin". Humor is healthy!

[leadman]

swheeler, my fingers don't always hit the keys I try to point them at. Most of them are so crooked one can not tell where I am pointing. I fixed it, thanks.

I had given my friend some of the Saeco 120gr RN GC coated boolits to try in his AR in 308 Win. He showed me the targets and chronograph tape this morning from working up the loads. So far 2,701 fps, about 1" at 100 yards. No leading. He is using BW36, an obsolete surplus powder so no data for a 120gr boolit. At the 42gr charge the primer are still rounded, no case expansion above normal.

[Love Life]

big hat, no cattle.




"i dont know what you'all are talking bout, hehehe, but i like that sayin". Humor is healthy!

Have to keep it fun!

[gunoil]

thats the kinda report needed leadman for rifle people. 223/308/30cal,etc..

[35isit]

I'm almost ready to try this. Have everything except the coating. Have read every post so far and will continue to. A quick question. Does cooking the boolits each coat at 375 degrees change the bhn of the boolits? I only ask because I use straight COWW for silhouette and an approximate 45% SOWW/pure and 55% COWW for all my other shooting. I have no leading and get 1 ragged hole accuracy at 50 yards out of my T C Contenders. They are target accurate out to 200 meters. I run them with light charges of WW231 and Unique except for a .357 supermag I run at a pretty good fps with AA5744 and AA 1680

I want to thank Leadman and ausglock for answering my pms.

[high standard 40]

I'm almost ready to try this. Have everything except the coating. Have read every post so far and will continue to. A quick question. Does cooking the boolits each coat at 375 degrees change the bhn of the boolits? I only ask because I use straight COWW for silhouette and an approximate 45% SOWW/pure and 55% COWW for all my other shooting. I have no leading and get 1 ragged hole accuracy at 50 yards out of my T C Contenders. They are target accurate out to 200 meters. I run them with light charges of WW231 and Unique except for a .357 supermag I run at a pretty good fps with AA5744 and AA 1680

I want to thank Leadman and ausglock for answering my pms.

Greg,
If you have been water quenching your COWW boolits to harden them, then baking the HiTek coating will soften then back. They will then be like air cooled COWW. Someone else here has be experimenting with water dropping after baked the final coat but if I remember correctly the increase in BH is not that great. Not the same BH gain as water dropping straight from the mold. I have never actually experimented with the water dropping after baking myself so can't say for sure.

[prickett]

What makes HT brittle? Over heating? or, baking too long at the correct temperature?

[swheeler]

swheeler, my fingers don't always hit the keys I try to point them at. Most of them are so crooked one can not tell where I am pointing. I fixed it, thanks.

I had given my friend some of the Saeco 120gr RN GC coated boolits to try in his AR in 308 Win. He showed me the targets and chronograph tape this morning from working up the loads. So far 2,701 fps, about 1" at 100 yards. No leading. He is using BW36, an obsolete surplus powder so no data for a 120gr boolit. At the 42gr charge the primer are still rounded, no case expansion above normal.

i figured as much that's why the

[HI-TEK]

What makes HT brittle? Over heating? or, baking too long at the correct temperature?

Both over heating and baking too long will damage the HT.
It is normally recommended that cure takes about 8-10 minutes at 190-200C.
Extended heating times, beyond those times will darken coating, and, make it extremely brittle and will be no longer suitable for applications.
The whole idea of coating is to separate metals, conform to hydraulic deformation, lubricate, and stay put during period where projectiles is in barrel.
As heat energy will harden coating further, the heat produced by burning powder and friction, will help coating to self-adjust for firing conditions during duration inside barrel.
By over heating and or pro-long heating before use, you accelerate that self adjusting process to where the coating becomes non functional.

[gunoil]

i guess 375 degrees then cold water prickett is not good for HTS.

Well all those multi-cal cast found there way to the ingot pot. Just like this clean stuff.

[Thompsoncustom]

Well might have found the source of my problem, I got some (NMP) n-methyl pyrrolidone in the other day and have been doing some testing with it. Cold it doesn't seem to do anything to a coated bullet or my barrel but when heated I was able to rub some coating off a bullet and also patch out some coating in my barrel.

I've heated the barrel and added the NMP and also tired heating the NMP and filling up the bore but sometimes I'll get some out and sometimes I won't I think that the NMP might need to be a certain temp to became effective. I will say that when I had the bore filled up I shined a light down it and I was able to really see the coating as it's impossible to see it by just looking down the bore and hard to do it with a light.

When people/ companies blue a barrel I'm guessing they put it in boiling water afterward I'm wondering if I bring the NMP to a stable temp of something like 200 and see if that does a better job. If I can get my barrel locked into something hold a flashlight and take a pic I'll get some up here so you all can see the "damage". I wonder if JB bore paste and some elbow grease would do the trick.

[gunoil]

If somethings wrong with your barrel, call em up, mail it in,, let em replace it. What kind of pistol did you buy?, you never said.

[Thompsoncustom]

The only thing wrong with the barrel is that there this Coating stuck in it. Two guns have had the Hi tek coated bullets in them my glock 17 and my CZ 75b(pic by my name). The cz is about 3 years ago and probably has 10k cast bullets through it without any problems before this and the glock is about 6 months old also no problems with standard lubed lead bullets. The CZ has coating cooked in the barrel the glock might have a little it's hard to tell with the barrel being black I can't say for sure and i'm worried that the NMP might mess up the coating on the glock so I can only say the CZ has it for sure. It's a nightmare to get out So advice to everyone is make sure your bullets are cooked.

I'll keep ya updated if I ever get it all out. Could care less about the glock but the CZ is my baby and is crazy accurate.

[goblism]

Which mold you using for the cz, mine is very picky on bullets. Haven't had any ftf with the hitek so far (200 rounds only)but had some issues with regular lead rf bullets

[prickett]

Both over heating and baking too long will damage the HT.
It is normally recommended that cure takes about 8-10 minutes at 190-200C.
Extended heating times, beyond those times will darken coating, and, make it extremely brittle and will be no longer suitable for applications.
The whole idea of coating is to separate metals, conform to hydraulic deformation, lubricate, and stay put during period where projectiles is in barrel.
As heat energy will harden coating further, the heat produced by burning powder and friction, will help coating to self-adjust for firing conditions during duration inside barrel.
By over heating and or pro-long heating before use, you accelerate that self adjusting process to where the coating becomes non functional.

Any specifics on what constitutes too long (e.g. leaving in 2 minutes too long or leaving in 10 minutes too long?)

Same question for temp.

I'm asking because my oven doesn't seem up to snuff (temp dial inconsistent), so sometimes it over heats and other times it doesn't heat enough. I'm wondering if temp spiking to 425 degrees during a baking session, or me extending cook time to 12 or 14 minutes due to undercooking is sufficient to cause brittleness.