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Thread: simple Hi-Tek coating

  1. #881
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    Leadman, u put gas checks on 223?

  2. #882
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    gunoil, your boolits look great. Yes, I do gas check the 223 and 30-06.

  3. #883
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    The coating does not need to cover the bottom of the lube grooves or in front of the driving band on the nose. Should be no barrel contact here so not needed.
    Thinner is better as far as sizing and no leading in the barrel. I think the thicker coats get gas bubbles that weaken the coating, just my theory.

  4. #884
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    Well I finally got to test the red copper in all of the 45's today and no leading at all even in the darn Taurus 24/7 That thing has leaded with all cast loads I have tried to date. I have found that with my Lee tumble lube 230 RN I can get by with only two coats but the mold throws a perfect .452 boolit. the Lee TL 200 SWC needs three but it is throwing at .454 and with just two coats when I size the coating seems to get a bit thin. Over all I am liking the HI-Tek coating. my dies stayed clean and smoking was minimal. I haven't noticed any accuracy change with the 45's.

  5. #885
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    Great post codawolf,,, stain away! "A new word i stole from hi-tek".

    Yea, leadman thanks for GC ?. I love this stuff. I want some 223 bullets and some gas checks. just a few to try. My friends shoot-em, not me.
    1) what sizer would i need?
    2) u get your Gas checks from castboolits? Forgot where i saw it.
    3) no , i dont want a rifle, i have keltec carbine/40s&w.
    4) paypal

  6. #886
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    I'm a newcomer to this thread and have been reading with great interest all of the tips, techniques, and procedures. Finally decided to order a half liter of red copper. Though I haven't been to the range to test, I must say that the process is very straight forward. Thanks to all of you for sharing your experience. I will report back with results once I test at the range. Below are some pics of coat 1 before and after baking, and coat 2 before and after baking.

    Regards,

    BuffDriver

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Casting_20130817_06.jpg   Casting_20130817_08.jpg   Casting_20130817_09.jpg   Casting_20130817_10.jpg  
    Last edited by buffdriver; 08-18-2013 at 07:07 PM.

  7. #887
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    G'day Buff Driver (Muff Diver????)
    You bullets look great.
    First coat thin. baked light. second coat copper. baked red/copper. Nice

    How do they smash and wipe?

    Don't sweat it about no colour in the lube groove. or where the nose meets the shoulder on SWC bullets. it may not look good, but they shoot great.

    In Testing, I have had coated bullets that looked like a million dollars, but failed badly in the firing. so looks are not everything.


    Tonight, I'm going to revisit the black coating. a new mix with the original catalyst to see if the black will be blacker than with Extreme Catalyst.
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  8. #888
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    Thanks, Ausglock. Smash test is good, no color on acetone wipe. Pic below.

    BTW, BUFF is USAF slang for the B-52!

    Regards,

    BuffDriver

    Click image for larger version. 

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  9. #889
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    Quote Originally Posted by buffdriver View Post
    Thanks, Ausglock. Smash test is good, no color on acetone wipe. Pic below.

    BTW, BUFF is USAF slang for the B-52!

    Regards,

    BuffDriver

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Good job!
    Now load those puppies up and have some fun...
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  10. #890
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    Quote Originally Posted by leadman View Post
    The coating does not need to cover the bottom of the lube grooves or in front of the driving band on the nose. Should be no barrel contact here so not needed.
    Thinner is better as far as sizing and no leading in the barrel. I think the thicker coats get gas bubbles that weaken the coating, just my theory.
    Hi leadman,
    You are quite right about bubbling with thick coats.
    What actually happens is, that thick coats form a thick skin on surface, trapping solvent and moisture below.
    Even if it feels dry, when putting them into the oven, these vapours become super heated steam vapours, which show up as bubbles, (mini moon craters) and after cure, surface is like an "orange Peel", most common in such events.
    Often the super heated vapours stop coating adhering to alloy, as the vapours try to escape between alloy and coating.
    As I have advise many previously, simply just "stain at each coat".
    This allows faster and more even drying, use less coating, looks pretty, and it works.
    With two or three thin stain coats, you should get very acceptable colour and shooting results.
    Thanks much for your postings, much appreciated.

  11. #891
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    Quote Originally Posted by buffdriver View Post
    Thanks, Ausglock. Smash test is good, no color on acetone wipe. Pic below.


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    What? Did you put that on a train track?
    Guns should only be allowed in places where people don't want to be shot.

  12. #892
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    buff D, u caught on quick. Spent alot of money on Kenworth and tires and food around your area clear down to the TA. My hang-out!

    You got dem big dang pistol bullets.

  13. #893
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thompsoncustom View Post
    I thought about that and a couple days ago I loaded a bullet with only a primer and launched the bullet into the barrel. After beating it back out the same way it came it the coating was all still on there and no exposed lead no pits in the bore and it looks smooth not sure how i would tell? Also fells fine when pushing a patch through.

    I've been using the CZ for the most part but when I started having problems I was using my glock 17 and 75b that day and they both leaded but I haven't tired the glock since.
    I shoot my HT coateds through a CZ75 w/o leading. I size the boolits to .358" (smaller did result in leading when using conventional lube - not sure whether it would with HT).

  14. #894
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    Well got another thing to knock off the list of possible causes to my coating nightmare. Tired the glock 17 and the CZ 75b the gun I have been using and both leaded of course. Will try a different load later this week with unique to see if that changes anything.

    I shoot my HT coateds through a CZ75 w/o leading. I size the boolits to .358" (smaller did result in leading when using conventional lube - not sure whether it would with HT).
    I had been running bullets at .3565 for the longest time with normal homemade lube and could shoot all day long with no leading. Just opened my sizer up a little more a while back.

  15. #895
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thompsoncustom View Post
    Well got another thing to knock off the list of possible causes to my coating nightmare. Tired the glock 17 and the CZ 75b the gun I have been using and both leaded of course. Will try a different load later this week with unique to see if that changes anything.
    I was using 700x in my 9 and got leading. I switched to unique, and it stopped.
    Guns should only be allowed in places where people don't want to be shot.

  16. #896
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    I noticed yesterday at the range that the first boolit in a group was always out of the rest of the group. i have been shooting 3 shot groups to save my neck (deterioration and arthritis). I have been pushing a dry patch thru the bore after each 3 shot group and I think this is causing the first shot to be out, so remember this as all shots are included in the group sizes. I also had problems with my Leadsled and my sons AR as the rear sling loop on the side of the buttstock was hitting part of the Leadsled. I tried stuffing things between the Leadsled and the buttplate but it did not help much.
    All the boolits were coated with the Red Copper Hi-Tek.
    Here are the results of my range session yesterday:
    Savage 30-06 200grs, 314299 GC'd, Heat Treated Lino 32BHN, sized .311", Reloder 17 powder, Fed 210 primer, 3.3" oal.
    charge avg vel. group size 100 yards
    45grs no reading 1,835"
    46grs no reading 4.958"
    47grs 2,397 fps 1.469"
    48grs 2,396 fps 4.921"
    49grs 2,483 fps 3.75"
    50grs 2,484fps 3.395"
    51grs 2,508 fps 6.0" + This charge is max per Alliant for jacketed

    AR15 in 5.56, 16"? barrel, Lyman 45gr RN GC'd, Heat Treated Lino, Sized .225", H4895, WSR, 2.025", crimped
    Charge Avg Vel. Group Size 100 yards
    22.5grs 2,502 fps 2.916"
    23grs 2,603 fps 4.06"
    23.5grs 2,596 fps 1.230"
    24 grs 2,666 fps 3.386"
    24.5grs 2,754fps 2.450" This load is over 3,100 fps in my 23" Contender

    Contender 23" Heavy Barrel in 223 Rem. 45gr Lyman RN, Heat Treated Lino, GC'd, sized .225", H4895, WSR, 2.02".
    Charge Avg Vel. Group Size 100 yards
    24.5grs 3,159 fps 3.812"
    25 grs 3,272 fps 3.682"
    25.5 grs 3,346 fps 1.830"
    26 grs 3,360 fps 3.256"
    26.5grs 3,400 fps 2.907"
    27grs 3,460 fps 2.482"
    27.5grs 3,489 fps 2.181" Two tiny specks of lead on the dry patch

    All of the top charges in the 3 guns was at max case expansion. Temperature was also about 114 degrees when we finished firing the groups.
    Last edited by leadman; 08-20-2013 at 12:16 PM.

  17. #897
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    Cool beans leadman. The special forces like for their barrels to get build up, iam told. Shoots straighter. I luv this stuff.
    Lots of quick stuff coming out ready in my garage.
    http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/...psfd9aa27f.mp4

    You can coat all ya want, but ya still should size.

  18. #898
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    Leadman, you consider leaving your barrel dirty? Some of my rifles, don't get a patch or bore snake through them until I start loosing accuracy. Sometimes I get a couple hundred shots through before accuracy starts to drop off. This is with jacketed or boolits. Now, my experience with the high tech coating is minimal, but the little that I have shot, my barrel was cleaner than with cast. Now, I'm also shooting non corrosive primers and powder, so corrosion is not of concern.
    "The right of the people to keep and bear...arms shall not be infringed. A well regulated militia, composed of the body of the people, trained to arms, is the best and most natural defense of a free country..." (James Madison, I Annals of Congress 434 [June 8, 1789])


    Once the people find they can vote themselves money, that will herald the end of the republic.
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  19. #899
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    I was running a patch thru the bore to check for any traces of leading. Now that I have the data on what works as far as velocity I will shoot some longer strings. I may switch to the Saeco 120gr RN GC in the 30-06 to get higher velocities. Also will try different primers, seating depth, etc.
    The Leadsled may be causing some of the large groups because my son was using it to sight in his 308 with hunting loads and they were larger than normal also. Only problem is I can not shoot anything with any amount of recoil without it to to health issues. I'll figure it out I hope.

  20. #900
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    gunoil,
    What was the weight of the 380,looks like a flat base?
    Thanks,
    Rich

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check