If I pull my boolits from the case I can be pretty sure that at least some of them will leave the base and stay in the case. I don't believe the thread starter has any problems other than in this particular case of having to pull some.
Shoot from a rest at 25/50/100 yards, then post your groupings. That is the only way to compare accuracy results.
You fail to see the problem. If the man drives to the range, do some checks fall off into the powder before he gets to shoot them?
Pulling boolits should never have checks fall off.
The purpose of the check is to stop boolit skid, not to fall off or spin.
It is part of the boolit just like a jacket is part of a bullet. I would go crazy if jackets were on the ground.
Just what does a beer can check do?
I'm with you on this one, one reason I still buy Hornady crimp-on checks rather than buy tools to make my own. No one yet makes a tool you can use at home to properly swage a reverse-taper to the edge of the check cup so it will "crimp" the shank when sized. I've recovered my boolits after going through tree stumps and the checks were still on them. The only time I ever lost any in the cases was when I was dinking with the Swedish Mausers and using .266" checks with .272" boolits and .270" neck ID with boolits that had undersized shanks. They would come off every time I pulled a boolit. Honing the check shank in the mould solved the problem.
Gear
The only time I've lost checks in the case is when I've pullet a bullet from the case... It happens when the bullet releases with kinetic force or by being drawn out by a collet without anything pushing from behind. When there is an ignition of a proper amount of powder pushing on the check it will always do its job and seal up behind the boolit. If it is loose, then it falls off after the muzzle, if not it will stay on.
If we're talking bottleneck cases with a low case fill ratio, then I'm with you guys. My first option in that case would be to switch to a slower powder and make sure the case is filled.
Shoot from a rest at 25/50/100 yards, then post your groupings. That is the only way to compare accuracy results.
I had a check fall off the bullet before I seated it. I set that bullet aside, worrying the check could fall off in the case. After I was done loading for the day, I decided to sacrifice a case to find out.
I slipped the check back on the bullet and verified I could easily pull it on/off with my fingers. Then I seated it in an empty case and cut the cartridge in half, just below where the base of the bullet would be. At the OAL for my rifle, the mouth of the check end up right where the neck starts. This was expected just eyeballing a bullet against a case. Plus there's the fact that on the few I have ever pulled, the check has always stayed in the case.
But despite my best efforts with picks and hot glue, I could not get the check to come off. I'm not saying this would be the case for your ammo. It depends on your cartridge and your seating depth. I'm saying you could check for yourself, if it eases your mind. All it takes is sacrificing one bullet and case.
And now how do you get a stuck gas check out of the rifle barrel ?
Primers are a sad thing to waste ... Get a small pair of needle nose plairs , like used in jewelry making ... hold the case up so the check can be grabbed and pulled out of the case through the neck ... save them Primers !
Gary
Certified Cajun
Proud Member of The Basket of Deplorables
" Let's Go Brandon !"
Whether pushing the bullet back out (rod from the muzzle) or all the way through from the breech, the GC goes with it.how do you get a stuck gas check out of the rifle barrel ?
No problemmo . . .
As to getting a GC out of a case... ice pick to the side of the gascheck to up-end it sideways in the neck, then remove w/ needle-nose and or forceps/tweezers
It's fun to read through these old posts that get resurrected. I wonder where all those banned members have gone off to. I remember enjoying geargnashers posts and runfiverrun ad 44mans also.
I resorted to superglue in one instance to get the checks to stay on a 6.5 boolit I was playing with. I managed to get one boolit superglued into a push through sizer die, you have to make sure the glue is set before sizing. I ended up melting the boolit out of the die and re polishing the inside of the die, no serious damage done.
Turning the hung up check sideways in the case and extracting it with hemostats is as near a correct solution as I have ever come up with.
Quis Quis Quis, Quis Liberat Canes
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Millions and millions of American shooters and sportsmen got up, went to work, contributed to society in useful and meaningful ways all over the nation and shot no one today! How do they controll themselves?? Experts Baffled....
I LIKE IKE
And if all else fails? You can...
--->>> throw out the case, or
--->>> put a stout dose of fast propellant in the case with a wax plug in front and just shoot the thing out.
This ain't rocket science, dude.
I'm just sayin'
///
Kalifornia passes "feel good" legislation hand over fist, legislation that is looking for a problem to solve and affecting only law abiding persons.
So, after 40 years of that nonsense, that's why I now live in Arizona.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |