Minor problem with MP mould, need solution

My MP mould sprue cutter handle is loose and comes off of the mould. I've tapped it back in place and that works for a time, but eventually it comes off again. It's sorta aggravating.

I can think of 2 solutions and I'm wondering if you had the issue how you fixed it?

My solutions are adhesive (epoxy or hi temp [700°F] silicone) or drilling and pinning it, or both adhesive and pinning it, both at the same time).

Yes, I can weld a piece onto it and use a mallet from then on, but I kinda like the wood handle. Plus the maker designed it to use the wood handle.

I can also live with it and keep putting it in place but that will eat at me and drive me nuts. Not a good solution at all.

I'm not about to jump into a solution. My mind is open. If you've had the problem how did you solve it? Obviously I only want to fix it once and have it last for life.

TIA folks.

Never had an MP mold, yet, so I'm not familiar with the sprue handle on them.

I have used epoxy to remedy slipping wood handles on both Lee and Lyman mold handles. It works even though the epoxy may get soft with heat, I don't believe it gets hot enough to totally fail.

Robert

I used some gorilla glue and tapped it back into place when I have had these issues. So far so good.

Thanks, but Gorilla glue makes lots of adhesives. Can you narrow it down?

:smile: Yeah, I have one that I recently purchased and I have no idea which one it is right now. Do as I say and not as I do, right? But if you could narrow it down I'd appreciate it. I'm heading out to town tomorrow.

You must have a non hp mold with the lee type sprue cutter. Two part epoxy works great.

Is one of the eight cavity molds, the third handle to the right keeps coming off? I turn it 90 degrees and tap tap tap it back on. Red high temperature rtv or any of the other adhesives already mentioned work if it's what you have available. The worst that happens if it doesn't work is try something else..

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JB Weld is kind of traditional for mold handles. Surprised no one mentioned it.

Thanks gents. Yes, it's the 8 cavity mould and the 3rd handle to the right. I should have supplied that information. I can't read minds either! What was I thinking?

I'll look into JB Weld tomorrow when we're running errands in town. I've run into that in the past and it strikes me as being non heat sensitive.

I'm with Mal on the JB Weld. I've used it on both the sprue plate handle and the mold handles, and both have been holding up so far.

I picked up some JB Weld today, says it's good to 550° (or was it 500?) F. It should do. I know of folks who fixed the fireboxes of ceramic kamados with it so I think it'll work.

The following smilie has absolutely nothing to do with the above. I just wanted to use it for kicks. :guntootsmiley:

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Originally Posted by BJK

I picked up some JB Weld today, says it's good to 550° (or was it 500?) F. It should do. I know of folks who fixed the fireboxes of ceramic kamados with it so I think it'll work.

The following smilie has absolutely nothing to do with the above. I just wanted to use it for kicks. :guntootsmiley:

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They now make an extreme temp JB weld called JB Weld ExtremeHeat.

$10 ExtremeHeat™ is formulated to allow for repairs to iron, steel and metal in high temperature environments (1000°F / 537°C).

https://www.google.com/search?client...d+extreme+heat

Back when there was only 1 kind of JB, I used it to repair a leak in the radiator of my truck. The top was separating from the top end ot the tube section. The repair lasted about 2 days. It took several hours to clean out the seam completely. I then soldered the seam and that repair lasted until the truck was sold several years later.

That's a pretty good run.

It is almost impossible to glue a radiator shut once it has been opened.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by NyFirefighter357

They now make an extreme temp JB weld called JB Weld ExtremeHeat.

$10 ExtremeHeat™ is formulated to allow for repairs to iron, steel and metal in high temperature environments (1000°F / 537°C).

https://www.google.com/search?client...d+extreme+heat

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Nice, Thanks!

Regular JB Weld will crack a little but it hasn't let go yet, maybe 10 years.

Just Read: The High Heat JB Weld is water based single component for metal only, it is not epoxy.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mal Paso

JB Weld is kind of traditional for mold handles. Surprised no one mentioned it.

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A big "I can't agree more!!!" with the J-B weld suggestion!!! This epoxy has yet to even slightly disappoint me, much less fail!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mal Paso

Nice, Thanks!

Regular JB Weld will crack a little but it hasn't let go yet, maybe 10 years.

Just Read: The High Heat JB Weld is water based single component for metal only, it is not epoxy.

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Thanks. I just ordered it. I need to cancel and keep the 2 part epoxy that I have in hand.

The job is complete, except for the curing. I worked the epoxy around in the hole in the wood to make sure I had good adhesion, and put a few small notches in the metal portion and degreased it. I got good squeeze out. As long as the epoxy doesn't get too hot the repair should be forever. :happy dance:

Don’t put red rtv on it, that’s not an adhesive it’s a sealant and it will ruin any other glues you try to use afterward. Use jb weld which does come in a high temp version, but clearly isn’t needed for this application. Yes, glue it up and you’ll never worry about it again.

I've used the cheap 2 part epoxy from HF...it's like 99¢...for wood handles on boolit Mold tongs...works just fine.

Just don't use the quick setting 5- minute epoxies , even J-B Weld makes one now .
You will get you best strength with two-part , slow setting , slow curing epoxy ...
it usually takes 24 hours to fully cure ... that kind will give the strongest bond .
Gary

Yup, due to my diet I have acquired the habit of reading labels. While I had no intention of eating the stuff I did use the slow cure 500° stuff. The repair was good and was fully cured and the mould put away yesterday. I haven't had a chance to use it yet... busted right wing.

I was sizing a mess of the bullets last Friday night and moving too fast with no breaks. I got a repetitive motion injury. Friday night clearly I was a hurting unit. I could barely move it. Barely slept that night, every time I moved the pain would wake me up. It's slowly getting better but it's still no where near right. BenGay doesn't seem to do much, but I like the smell of wintergreen. The base problem that caused it is my 20 year old mind but a body that is much older and doesn't know it's limitations. But it decided to bring the issue to my attention in a way that I can't ignore. I missed 2 matches this past weekend because I couldn't raise the arm enough to shoot.

Ibuprofen and hot towels

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Yeah, I went to the local ER today and got their suggestions and Rxs. Inflamed bicep tendons was the diagnosis. So yeah, my treatment wasn't going to work. The real problem is a brain that still thinks it's 20 years old, the reality being that it's in a body that's half a century older. The PA just chuckled at that and said she understood. There was some grey in her hair.

Aging isn't for sissies.

I thought the PA was going to Rx a gel and Rx strength ibuprophen, but all I saw was the latter. I've been taking it and it's dulling the pain. I'm also getting better. She told me to ice it, 4-5x a day isn't too much, I'm doing what I can. It is improving. I see progress every day now. FWIW, I don't like taking a RX strength Ibu'. I'll stop taking it soon.

Someone sent me a link to PT exercises and I appreciate that. Once I can move the arm better I intend to make use of them. What I don't want to do is re-inflame it so for now I'm going easy. I suspect I'll start to exercise it soon.