gonna buy a lathe

[akajun]

Mines got a bunch of backlash in the carriage crank. I need to fix that someday. Maybe when I'm 80. I use my ears a lot in machining. I can always hear when some tool wear or something else starts happening on the CNC from across the room.

I listened to the headstock running in various speeds on these machines for one thing when checking em out. May want to take some bars stock with you and make a cut. Measure that. Jim's got a good method I'm sure.

Snoop has been a good dog lately. They've all been pretty good about staying on the reservation. I need to fence this place. I figured roughly 5000 feet of fence. Dang why wasn't I blessed with sons?

I cant wait for my boys to grow up, I need some help at the deer camp for sure. I do have my 4yo operating my reloading press handles for me though. He calls it "making batteries".

Hey skim, those mills are they local? Im looking for a good large benchtop mill. Something with a square column, 220v, or a small bridgeport or Republic Lagun.
Let me know if its something youre gonna pass on but think its good.

[skimmerhead]

I cant wait for my boys to grow up, I need some help at the deer camp for sure. I do have my 4yo operating my reloading press handles for me though. He calls it "making batteries".

Hey skim, those mills are they local? Im looking for a good large benchtop mill. Something with a square column, 220v, or a small bridgeport or Republic Lagun.
Let me know if its something youre gonna pass on but think its good.

it's by ocshner hosipital off jefferson hwy. the guy has an american pacemaker lathe and a big mill, but didn't catch the name, bad phone connection. going take a look thursday. i don't know of any benchtop models cause i haven't looked for any mills yet. but if i see something i'll let you know.

skimmerhead

[akajun]

it's by ocshner hosipital off jefferson hwy. the guy has an american pacemaker lathe and a big mill, but didn't catch the name, bad phone connection. going take a look thursday. i don't know of any benchtop models cause i haven't looked for any mills yet. but if i see something i'll let you know.

skimmerhead

I take it you mean in New Orleans. THere's an Oschner in BR too, kinda close to Jefferson Highway.

Yeah let me know, It doesnt have to be a benchtop, a smaller Bridgeport or Republic lagun, or an older Rockwell would suffice. Im running out of room in the shop.

[skimmerhead]

I take it you mean in New Orleans. THere's an Oschner in BR too, kinda close to Jefferson Highway.

Yeah let me know, It doesnt have to be a benchtop, a smaller Bridgeport or Republic lagun, or an older Rockwell would suffice. Im running out of room in the shop.

i didn't know there was one in br, i'll let you know if i pass on the one i'm going look at.

skimmerhead

[skimmerhead]

I take it you mean in New Orleans. THere's an Oschner in BR too, kinda close to Jefferson Highway.

Yeah let me know, It doesnt have to be a benchtop, a smaller Bridgeport or Republic lagun, or an older Rockwell would suffice. Im running out of room in the shop.

i'm not gonna move on that equipment, too big, too hard to move. if you want to look him up let me know, i'll give you the info.

skimmerhead :lovebooli

[Sprue]

Too bad you don't live here in New England, You would not have to look for long to find what you want. Probably the only reason anyone would want to live here.

+1 And as Andy Rooney would say "why is that?"

On fee bay or Craigslist it seems that the only machines for sale or obtainium, are from the N East or California. What I have is out of your league. But I'm just a hobbiest too and this ole piece milled Logan 200 suits my need.

Sure would be nice to have a larger 2" spindle or there abouts. To the OP I can't afford what you are looking for, but an old Bridgeport would be nice compliment to my 200- but ... that will never happen here.

I was looking real hard at this Grizzly Mil//Drill but I ended opting out for a couple more toys instead I looked at this one really hard for a while (http://www.grizzly.com/products/Drill-Mill-with-Stand-29-inch-x-8-inch-Table/G0705)

[PatMarlin]

Lordy there is a nice looking WEBB 14x40 on craigs list I would love to have. $1750.

Don't have the money or the room. Be well worth shipping that one back east at that price if it's condition checked out. They are good (expensive) lathes.

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/tls/2253460840.html

[akajun]

i'm not gonna move on that equipment, too big, too hard to move. if you want to look him up let me know, i'll give you the info.

skimmerhead :lovebooli

Send me the info on the mill please.

[skimmerhead]

Send me the info on the mill please.

did you get the info?

skimmerhead

[PatMarlin]

I think that zink is working well Danny.

[skimmerhead]

I think that zink is working well Danny.

good to hear Pat, if you need more you know what to do. gonna take a ride to the yard this weekend and collect some more. there real busy this time of year and have a lot laying around.

skimmerhead

[PatMarlin]

The water here has a mild electric mineral element to it. I had been running coolant with water and Ballistol, but as good as Ballistol is, some rusting would show up here and there after a few months. Now I've been adding Distilled water when it evaporates and setting the zink bar in the tank. I sanded the bar down.

The rust has completely stopped.

[skimmerhead]

The water here has a mild electric mineral element to it. I had been running coolant with water and Ballistol, but as good as Ballistol is, some rusting would show up here and there after a few months. Now I've been adding Distilled water when it evaporates and setting the zink bar in the tank. I sanded the bar down.

The rust has completely stopped.

do you have any other type of metal in your system besides steel? such as aluminum, brass, or bronze that is affected by your coolant system? if your rust shows up again drill and tap a thread to the zinc and run a wire and ground it to system. also if you have vibration check between zinc and where its resting. some times it'll eat the metal beneath the zinc. if needed i can send you a special grounding plate made by perco, it's made of pourous bronze and is used on high end boats and yacht's for grounding electrical system's against electrolisis, i have one laying around if you need it. if you have any non ferrous metals in your coolant system you might want to add a piece of magnesium to protect those parts.

skimmerhead :lovebooli = snoops friend

[akajun]

did you get the info?

skimmerhead

I did, and I called him, but did not get a call back. Thanks anyway.

[skimmerhead]

I did, and I called him, but did not get a call back. Thanks anyway.

have you ever tryed your milling attachment on your atlas? maybe i should have asked if you had one that came with your lathe.

skimmerhead

[akajun]

I have, but it is very small and difficult to work with due to the small clamping jaws and limited cross slide travel. Believe it or not My HF mini mill is easier to use. It did work very well for one thing, I back bored a win 97 barrell and in the instructions it suggested clamping the barrell in the milling vise and using the power feed for a good finish. After some jigging It felt solid enough and actually worked pretty well. If I had to bore out another deep hole with a reamer, its what I would use.

If I get a bigger machine I would probably buy a palmgren attachment for that purpose only.

[skimmerhead]

I have, but it is very small and difficult to work with due to the small clamping jaws and limited cross slide travel. Believe it or not My HF mini mill is easier to use. It did work very well for one thing, I back bored a win 97 barrell and in the instructions it suggested clamping the barrell in the milling vise and using the power feed for a good finish. After some jigging It felt solid enough and actually worked pretty well. If I had to bore out another deep hole with a reamer, its what I would use.

If I get a bigger machine I would probably buy a palmgren attachment for that purpose only.

i was just wondering if you hag tryed it. i had a couple of hours to spare a few days ago so i tryed it for the first time. i wanted to make some t-slot nuts for my drill press. it worked well after i had it all lined up and square. good on small stuff if your not in a hurry. the clamping system could use some cajun engenering for sure. but i bought a 9x42 bridgeport with a dro so i won't be using it much anymore. hope to get it in next week. once i get it up and running i'm gonna make a taper cutting attachment to fit the atlas. i got my steady and follow rest fit with roller bearings and they work very well compared to before, will keep you posted.
skimmerhead:castmine:

[PatMarlin]

He's gonna make a taper attachment for my Logan too with that pretty new Bridgeport he just bought ...:mrgreen:

[skimmerhead]

He's gonna make a taper attachment for my Logan too with that pretty new Bridgeport he just bought ...:mrgreen:

no problem buddy, just say the word and i'll start on it right away. just tell me if you want right hand or left hand tapers.

skimmerhead :redneck:

[caillouetr9981]

Skimmerhead -

How's life down in GM? It's already too hot over here in Houma!

Not trying to talk you out of it, but why do you need a Lathe/Mill? You planning to work it, or play with it?

Take care,

Reggie

[skimmerhead]

Skimmerhead -

How's life down in GM? It's already too hot over here in Houma!

Not trying to talk you out of it, but why do you need a Lathe/Mill? You planning to work it, or play with it?

Take care,

Reggie

the snow's starting to melt, so that's a good sigh. as far as the lathe and the mill i haven't a clue as what to do with them but a man never has enough toy's. i'm hoping to learn how to use them, then get a contract with NASA to build parts for there new spacecraft, the problem i'm having now is too much time on my hands, and not enough brains.

skimmerhead :veryconfu

[PatMarlin]

Oh I could remedy that problem.

Fly back here to Marlin Mountain and weez got lots of stuff to occupy time.

[skimmerhead]

Oh I could remedy that problem.

Fly back here to Marlin Mountain and weez got lots of stuff to occupy time.

my iq is below room tempeture, the only thing i could do is play with snoop! maybe work on that logan, i'd like to put my hands on it and give it a facelift, a little cosmetic surgery, and a little botox here and there and you won't recognize it. but it won't be this week. i'll work it in to my agenda.

skimmerhead-snoops friend :arrow::cbpour::redneck:

[skimmerhead]

I've shown these before but what the heck..

I have 2 vertical mills, too.

Index Model 40H mfg 1942 Jackson, Michigan. Was sold to Douglas Aircraft to build airplanes for the navy. I've owned it since 1983-4 or so. 1,200 pounds. Has a 1/4 hp motor and I've rarely needed more power.

I really think if you're going to have a lathe that you need a mill. You can do some milling on the lathe but sooner or later you'll outgrow that limitation. Used mills aren't all that bad. I can't imagine life without a lathe & mill but I'm funny that way. They are worth saving the bucks for. And they are worth selling guns to buy. I sold a lot of guns to buy some of this stuff. I use the machinery more and get more out of it.

http://images19.fotki.com/v33/photos/2/28344/474753/m6-vi.jpg

Enco 1993 Model 1525 "baby bridgeport". I like it. I've been running it for over 1 1/2 yrs now. Bought it used $1700 and shipped it from Wisconsin. 3 phase 10 speed.

http://images51.fotki.com/v423/photos/4/28344/7321255/DSCF8867gh-vi.jpg

hi Dutchman, on your mill that's 3-phase what do you have to run it on? a rotary phase converter, or a static phase converter? i bought a bridgeport mill and should be delivered this week. i trying to find out which is better to run the mill. the research iv'e done tells me a rotary is better. not having any knowledge on phase converters i thought i'd ask. if i understand correctly a static converter is only connected on one leg and i can't figure out what it does exactly. i like your mill.
skimmerhead :veryconfu

[PatMarlin]

I just love that Index mill of Dutch's. If it had a lever action quill it would be setting in my shop right now... :mrgreen:

Also take a look at a VFD Danny. PM our resident expert on the subject- JIMinPHX.

[skimmerhead]

I just love that Index mill of Dutch's. If it had a lever action quill it would be setting in my shop right now... :mrgreen:

Also take a look at a VFD Danny. PM our resident expert on the subject- JIMinPHX.

thanks pat, will do. i want to get the right equipment for it the first time. i hate having to do it twice. should get it this week, but it'll be awhile before i can mess with it, between my wife and my brother it's been a rollercoaster ride to say the least. thanks

skimmerhead

[skimmerhead]

I just love that Index mill of Dutch's. If it had a lever action quill it would be setting in my shop right now... :mrgreen:

Also take a look at a VFD Danny. PM our resident expert on the subject- JIMinPHX.

i got your surprise in today! you snuck that one up on me, now you have to tell me what size tee shirt you wear. i got a little surprise for you. thanks

snoop's buddy:happy dance:

[justashooter]

Add another gunsmithing lathe to the list.

some years ago a friend gave me a logan 200 in a tousand pieces. with a few illustrated parts lst i was able to get it back together and cut chips for the first time last night. had to upgrade the motor (original 1/2 hp was dead) to a 1 hp 1960's craftsman and am using a leather that is too short to slack when the cover is up, but we are turning like a mutherplucker. the package included a spare spindle, a 3 jaw 6", 6&8" plates and a variety of parts that flesh out the collection of tooling i have picked up for pennies at junk auctions over the years.

10X24 is a bit short of a bed, but has a pass thru spindle for 25/32", so barrel work is GTG.

[skimmerhead]

Add another gunsmithing lathe to the list.

some years ago a friend gave me a logan 200 in a tousand pieces. with a few illustrated parts lst i was able to get it back together and cut chips for the first time last night. had to upgrade the motor (original 1/2 hp was dead) to a 1 hp 1960's craftsman and am using a leather that is too short to slack when the cover is up, but we are turning like a mutherplucker. the package included a spare spindle, a 3 jaw 6", 6&8" plates and a variety of parts that flesh out the collection of tooling i have picked up for pennies at junk auctions over the years.

10X24 is a bit short of a bed, but has a pass thru spindle for 25/32", so barrel work is GTG.

i bet you had a lot of fun putting it together, now your gonna have more fun useing it.
skimmerhead:drinks:

[jim147]

skimmerhead,

Are you only going to have one 3 phase machine or are you planning on add others later?

If you know someone in HVAC you can find the caps for a converter pretty cheap. Is your machine 220 or 440?

A friend of mine is running an old 440 3 phase surface grinder in his shop off of 220 single without any problems. I gave him some capacitors and a relay, he picked up a transformer and did the wiring himself. I'm sure I could get his input if you would like it.

I've worked in several shops over the years. Two didn't have three phase service. One had a rotary and always complained about his power bill. The other used a slave motor and it worked pretty good for him.

jim

[skimmerhead]

skimmerhead,

Are you only going to have one 3 phase machine or are you planning on add others later?

If you know someone in HVAC you can find the caps for a converter pretty cheap. Is your machine 220 or 440?

A friend of mine is running an old 440 3 phase surface grinder in his shop off of 220 single without any problems. I gave him some capacitors and a relay, he picked up a transformer and did the wiring himself. I'm sure I could get his input if you would like it.

I've worked in several shops over the years. Two didn't have three phase service. One had a rotary and always complained about his power bill. The other used a slave motor and it worked pretty good for him.

jim

should be 220v but haven't recieved mill yet. should be this week. i plan on adding a bigger lathe this year but not sure what it will be yet. what do you mean by a slave motor? iv'e not heard of that phrase before.
skimmerhead :confused:

[justashooter]

i bet you had a lot of fun putting it together, now your gonna have more fun useing it.
skimmerhead:drinks:

thanks skim. i was up till 2AM cutting a proto of the first project to test procedure and try out tooling. used an old sewer pipe enfield barrel as stock and ended up with excellent profile and runouts. learning how to see the difference between 3 and 10 thou and how to get the finish i want.

with the lead screw ratio as set up i am getting 150RMS, so i will be messing with the gear ratios for target of 63. this lathe came with all 6 spare thread cutting gears, so anything is possible. working at slow speed of about 50 RPM on a 3/4 average diameter with sulfur based oil and high speed tooling.

not a professional machinist, just a machining QA inspector. will be at an auction sunday that promises to have small diameter (2-5") milling heads and various machining tools, so will try to pick up parts for conversion to milling function. also looking for a grinder that can be mounted on the cross slide.

[skimmerhead]

thanks skim. i was up till 2AM cutting a proto of the first project to test procedure and try out tooling. used an old sewer pipe enfield barrel as stock and ended up with excellent profile and runouts. learning how to see the difference between 3 and 10 thou and how to get the finish i want.

with the lead screw ratio as set up i am getting 150RMS, so i will be messing with the gear ratios for target of 63. this lathe came with all 6 spare thread cutting gears, so anything is possible. working at slow speed of about 50 RPM on a 3/4 average diameter with sulfur based oil and high speed tooling.

not a professional machinist, just a machining QA inspector. will be at an auction sunday that promises to have small diameter (2-5") milling heads and various machining tools, so will try to pick up parts for conversion to milling function. also looking for a grinder that can be mounted on the cross slide.
sounds good. i hope you find what you need. i'm not a machinist, i'm a wannabe, so i practice every chance i get.

skimmerhead

[jim147]

Too much pain reliever that night.

Not slave. Idler motor.

Do a little reading here if you get a chance.

http://homemetalshopclub.org/projects/phconv/phconv.html

jim

[skimmerhead]

Too much pain reliever that night.

Not slave. Idler motor.

Do a little reading here if you get a chance.

http://homemetalshopclub.org/projects/phconv/phconv.html

jim

[smilie=l: i thought i was the only one that does that on here.

skimmerhead

[jim147]

[smilie=l: i thought i was the only one that does that on here.

skimmerhead

:drinks:

jim

[skimmerhead]

thanks skim. i was up till 2AM cutting a proto of the first project to test procedure and try out tooling. used an old sewer pipe enfield barrel as stock and ended up with excellent profile and runouts. learning how to see the difference between 3 and 10 thou and how to get the finish i want.

with the lead screw ratio as set up i am getting 150RMS, so i will be messing with the gear ratios for target of 63. this lathe came with all 6 spare thread cutting gears, so anything is possible. working at slow speed of about 50 RPM on a 3/4 average diameter with sulfur based oil and high speed tooling.

not a professional machinist, just a machining QA inspector. will be at an auction sunday that promises to have small diameter (2-5") milling heads and various machining tools, so will try to pick up parts for conversion to milling function. also looking for a grinder that can be mounted on the cross slide.

on e-bay i found in the atlas lathe section a chart from little locos that gives you the turning and type of metal, diameter speeds. its color coded and laminated. 10.00 bucks, its worth every penny. no having to figure spindle speeds or dia.'s , just look on the chart, pick type of material, look at color code and you have it.

skimmerhead :cbpour:

[JIMinPHX]

i'm not a machinist, i'm a wannabe, so i practice every chance i get.


Sounds more like a gunnabe than a wannabe if you ask me.

[JIMinPHX]

i found ... a chart from little locos that gives you the turning and type of metal, diameter speeds.

Fell free to post a picture of that thing when you get it, if that's not breaking any kind of rules or anything like that. I'd kind of like to take a look at it. It sounds handy.

[PatMarlin]

sounds good. i hope you find what you need. i'm not a machinist, i'm a wannabe, so i practice every chance i get.

skimmerhead



He sounds like he's playing "Country Dumb" to me ....:mrgreen:

[skimmerhead]

Fell free to post a picture of that thing when you get it, if that's not breaking any kind of rules or anything like that. I'd kind of like to take a look at it. It sounds handy.

you talking about that chart?

skimmerhead

[skimmerhead]

He sounds like he's playing "Country Dumb" to me ....:mrgreen:

man weez jus swamp's people's over yeer :veryconfu

skimmerhead [smilie=s:

[PatMarlin]

Here's an interesting idea:

http://redding.craigslist.org/tls/2302229875.html

Supersize your Logan. Mines already 28", so it wouldn't be worth the few inches for me on this lathe. Well maybe it would, but not worth the time for me. Someday- I'll get a bigger lathe to replace it. I would like a Southwest Industries Trak- combination manual and CNC. Only $20,000 plus but who's counting? ...:mrgreen:

[PatMarlin]

If I could get Danny to fly back here and install it, well then it would be worth it.

[JIMinPHX]

you talking about that chart?

skimmerhead

yep, that's the one.

[JIMinPHX]

I would like a Southwest Industries Trak- combination manual and CNC. Only $20,000 plus but who's counting? ...:mrgreen:

I've used the SWI Trac DROs in the past. They're nice. I didn't know that SWI was making full machines now. Can you post a link to some info on one of them?

[skimmerhead]

yep, that's the one.

i went on flea bay last night and couldn't find anything by little locos, i don't know if they quit selling em or what. i guess it's ok to post a photo since i couldn't find any thing they had for sale. i'll try to get a photo on.

skimmerhead

[skimmerhead]

If I could get Danny to fly back here and install it, well then it would be worth it.

i'll start working on a set of wings and see if i can, i think it'll take some BIG wings.

skimmerhead

[skimmerhead]

Here's an interesting idea:

http://redding.craigslist.org/tls/2302229875.html

Supersize your Logan. Mines already 28", so it wouldn't be worth the few inches for me on this lathe. Well maybe it would, but not worth the time for me. Someday- I'll get a bigger lathe to replace it. I would like a Southwest Industries Trak- combination manual and CNC. Only $20,000 plus but who's counting? ...:mrgreen:

put both ends together put 2/4 on each side and bolt in place. garranuted not to rust, bust, or collect dust.

skimmerhead

[PatMarlin]

http://www.southwesternindustries.com/swi/prod_lathes.shtml

1440EX -That's my baby.

1.56 spindle through hole. The headstock doesn't look that wide neither. Could be a great gunsmith lathe.

With 8" of X axis travel, I could do production work with it, no problem.

[skimmerhead]

http://www.southwesternindustries.com/swi/prod_lathes.shtml

1440EX -That's my baby.

1.56 spindle through hole. The headstock doesn't look that wide neither. Could be a great gunsmith lathe.

With 8" of X axis travel, I could do production work with it, no problem.

NICE! can you wait till christmas?

snoops buddy

[PatMarlin]

Oh boy, yaw we can wait for Christmas....


http://www.patmarlins.com/snooper.jpg

[PatMarlin]

And I'll be a good boy I promise...


http://www.patmarlins.com/snoop2.jpg

[skimmerhead]

yep, that's the one.

haven't had a chance to take a photo of the chart yet. things kinda hectic here with my wife being sick. having to bring her to and from doctor's and hospital's i think i met up with myself a couple times on the road. today we got back from the doctor at 3:00 pm, truck driver call's at 4:00pm, says i'll be there in an hour with your mill. had to do some scrambling but we got it in the barn. will give it a looking over tomorrow. will try to get photo's soon. doctor tomorrow 1:30pm, monday 2:30pm. i think i'll just move in with em.

skimmerhead

[Dutchman]

hi Dutchman, on your mill that's 3-phase what do you have to run it on? a rotary phase converter, or a static phase converter? i bought a bridgeport mill and should be delivered this week. i trying to find out which is better to run the mill. the research iv'e done tells me a rotary is better. not having any knowledge on phase converters i thought i'd ask. if i understand correctly a static converter is only connected on one leg and i can't figure out what it does exactly. i like your mill.
skimmerhead :veryconfu

Sorry I'm late in responding to this..

I bought a rotary converter off ebay. It's a rated for 3 hp. The motor on the Enco mill is 1.5 hp. I had never hooked up a 3 phase converter before so I actually read the instructions.

http://images49.fotki.com/v1496/photos/4/28344/7321255/ee14-vi.jpg

It was actually pretty straightforward. I used 10 gauge wire. The circuit I hooked up to was an unused 20a. 220v compressor circuit that is only about 6 feet from the new household circuit panel.

http://images44.fotki.com/v1487/photos/4/28344/7321255/pc13-vi.jpg

http://images44.fotki.com/v1488/photos/4/28344/7321255/pc12-vi.jpg

It's been going 2 years and 1 month now. No problems. I run the Enco mill sometimes hours at a time without shutting off when I'm doing scope mounts one after the other. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend the American Rotary converter. I did ask Buckshot about his mill and he went with a VFD. I saw the rotary converter as a less potentially troubling system due to the simplicity. K.I.S.S. The Enco mill runs 100 rpm to 3200 rpm. At the top end speed the converter generator does dip down momentarily but it comes right back up to speed once the mill motor is running. 3200 rpm is really singing on a mill.

I just installed a column riser on the mill. It's the Grizzly green piece. They were on sale for $180. Cast iron. It gives 4" more spindle to table measurement. That's the one major fault with the Enco 100-1525 mill. Grizzly has discontinued their version of this mill though theirs is a 5 speed 1ph whereas the Enco is 10 speed 3ph. I expect there were fewer of these "baby" Bridgeports sold than the full sized Bridgeport clones. I've been very happy with this mill in the 2 yrs since I bought it. It's paid for itself 2x now with nothing more than scope mounts.

http://images58.fotki.com/v506/photos/4/28344/7321255/DSCF3069fr-vi.jpg

Dutch

[skimmerhead]

Sorry I'm late in responding to this..

I bought a rotary converter off ebay. It's a rated for 3 hp. The motor on the Enco mill is 1.5 hp. I had never hooked up a 3 phase converter before so I actually read the instructions.

http://images49.fotki.com/v1496/photos/4/28344/7321255/ee14-vi.jpg

It was actually pretty straightforward. I used 10 gauge wire. The circuit I hooked up to was an unused 20a. 220v compressor circuit that is only about 6 feet from the new household circuit panel.

http://images44.fotki.com/v1487/photos/4/28344/7321255/pc13-vi.jpg

http://images44.fotki.com/v1488/photos/4/28344/7321255/pc12-vi.jpg

It's been going 2 years and 1 month now. No problems. I run the Enco mill sometimes hours at a time without shutting off when I'm doing scope mounts one after the other. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend the American Rotary converter. I did ask Buckshot about his mill and he went with a VFD. I saw the rotary converter as a less potentially troubling system due to the simplicity. K.I.S.S. The Enco mill runs 100 rpm to 3200 rpm. At the top end speed the converter generator does dip down momentarily but it comes right back up to speed once the mill motor is running. 3200 rpm is really singing on a mill.

I just installed a column riser on the mill. It's the Grizzly green piece. They were on sale for $180. Cast iron. It gives 4" more spindle to table measurement. That's the one major fault with the Enco 100-1525 mill. Grizzly has discontinued their version of this mill though theirs is a 5 speed 1ph whereas the Enco is 10 speed 3ph. I expect there were fewer of these "baby" Bridgeports sold than the full sized Bridgeport clones. I've been very happy with this mill in the 2 yrs since I bought it. It's paid for itself 2x now with nothing more than scope mounts.

http://images58.fotki.com/v506/photos/4/28344/7321255/DSCF3069fr-vi.jpg

Dutch

thanks for the photo's, very nice, neat installation, i like that. that mill looks like new. i got mine in the barn but have not had time to look it over except it came with a big Furnace electrical box on the side that all the wires go to, and the the motor is 3 phase. i hope tomorrow i can get to go over it a bit and see what's what. i had been thinking of how to attach that thing to the cement floor and then i saw your mounting and leveling set up and really like it. i have the 3" sq. tubing and 4 7/8" similiar bolts from a cummins diesel i had. i think i'll put em to good use now. i'll post some photo's one day! i can't find the camera! thanks

skimmerhead

[Dutchman]

My middle name: overkill :)

The load bearing nut is on the bottom of the box tubing. I turn a shoulder on it to fit into a hole to keep things centered perfectly. It was supposed to be arc welded together but has not as yet. The square plate on the bottom is 5/8" thick. I drilled into the plate with a 1" drill to produce only a 60 degree female "hole". The leveling screws are 1-14 all-thread with a 60 degree male point that "floats" in the 5/8" plate and a 3/4" square drive on top.

You need to mill "windows" into the backside of the box tubing for the mill bolts so you can put a wrench on them during assembly.

http://images46.fotki.com/v1516/photos/4/28344/7321255/DSCF8283b-vi.jpg

http://images49.fotki.com/v1519/photos/4/28344/7321255/DSCF8290b-vi.jpg

Dutch

[skimmerhead]

My middle name: overkill :)

The load bearing nut is on the bottom of the box tubing. I turn a shoulder on it to fit into a hole to keep things centered perfectly. It was supposed to be arc welded together but has not as yet. The square plate on the bottom is 5/8" thick. I drilled into the plate with a 1" drill to produce only a 60 degree female "hole". The leveling screws are 1-14 all-thread with a 60 degree male point that "floats" in the 5/8" plate and a 3/4" square drive on top.

You need to mill "windows" into the backside of the box tubing for the mill bolts so you can put a wrench on them during assembly.

http://images46.fotki.com/v1516/photos/4/28344/7321255/DSCF8283b-vi.jpg

http://images49.fotki.com/v1519/photos/4/28344/7321255/DSCF8290b-vi.jpg

Dutch

overkill is cool! i like it alot.

skimmerhead :drinks:

[justashooter]

Here's an interesting idea:

http://redding.craigslist.org/tls/2302229875.html

Supersize your Logan. Mines already 28", so it wouldn't be worth the few inches for me on this lathe. Well maybe it would, but not worth the time for me. Someday- I'll get a bigger lathe to replace it. I would like a Southwest Industries Trak- combination manual and CNC. Only $20,000 plus but who's counting? ...:mrgreen:

wish i could. i have a 200 series machine that is 10 X 24". am finding that the 25/32 spindle pass thru is inconvenient at times. thank god for the followed rest.

[skimmerhead]

wish i could. i have a 200 series machine that is 10 X 24". am finding that the 25/32 spindle pass thru is inconvenient at times. thank god for the followed rest.

i know the feeling! i like my lil atlas but that hole thru the spindle sure could be a bigger. i'm hoping to get a bigger one before the end of the year. there are a lot of used machines available at good prices but the problem is the shipping. it's either local pick up only, or the freight is allmost as much as what you pay for the machine. unless you can go get it yourself it's a futile attempt at getting a good deal. hang in, santa might show up one day! here youv'e been a good boy this is for you!! :-D

skimmerhead :drinks:

[PatMarlin]

What you got going on there, the space shuttle Danny?

My CNC spindle drive control is still down. Had sent the drive boards down south to be repaired, went down and picked them up even, as if they got lost I would be screwed. Installed them and they still don't work ..:roll:

It's the last part of old electronics that have not been updated and retrofitted. Do we have any electronic techs that can trouble shoot old board electronics at the component level here at CB?

[PatMarlin]

That almost looks like you got a transformer there and it's input may be 110v single phase.

What's the bottom number on the brown paper tag say that the pic cuts off?

Never saw that setup. Look at what the final input is. The output of that switch is what the motor needs obviously, but check the input- or where they had it hooked up for evidence.

[PatMarlin]

Now I see the 3 wire diagram, it looks like you could hook up an inexpensive 220v single phase to 220v 3 phase transformer to that unit and be good to go.

A large one to handle the load probably find one for $100 bucks used.

[PatMarlin]

That small box removed was probably a transformer like I described.

[JIMinPHX]

i took these photos Jim but i don't seem to be able to get any good ones. there's one that you see my finger, i'm holding the three wires that come out of the box. there marked, L1-L2-L3 , these are the wires that went to the small box that was on the back of the mill that was removed. also the diagram.
skimmerhead

That diagram shows a fairly standard looking reversing contactor set up. L1, L2, L3 is standard notation for the 3 main power lines in a 3 phase set up.

The transformer is there to step down the control voltage so that you don't have more than 120vac going through the start/stop push buttons. I think that OSHA has something to say about that being the maximum that is allowed. 24 volt is more common these days, but 120 does still exist in some places.

The small box on the back of the machine was probably a disconnect box with a safety lock-out on it.

If you want to post a picture of the diagram that came with your VFD, I'll see if I can sort out which wires go where for you.

[JIMinPHX]

Do we have any electronic techs that can trouble shoot old board electronics at the component level here at CB?

It's been a few years since I've fooled with that stuff, but I've done board level repairs on a few dozen VFDs over the years. I've done the same on an Analam Crusader CNC control & a Bendex Dynapath CNC control too. I've done some interface work on a Fanuc 6T, an Analam 1100 & some Swedish controls on an Abean.

Let me know what equipment you have & what paperwork (drawings etc.) you have to go with it. I'll let you know if it sounds like something I might be able to help you with.

[skimmerhead]

That diagram shows a fairly standard looking reversing contactor set up. L1, L2, L3 is standard notation for the 3 main power lines in a 3 phase set up.

The transformer is there so to step down the control voltage so that you don't have more than 120vac going through the start/stop push buttons. I think that OSHA has something to say about that being the maximum that is allowed. 24 volt is more common these days, but 120 does still exist in some places.

The small box on the back of the machine was probably a disconnect box with a safety lock-out on it.

If you want to post a picture of the diagram that came with your VFD, I'll see if I can sort out which wires go where for you.

thats kinda what i figured that box was. everything i read on phase converters say's you need an input disconnect box near the machine. so now i have to decide on a phase converter or a vfd and bypass that old system, will make a decision this weekend and order one monday. any suggestions anyone? thanks Jim

skimmerhead:veryconfu

[skimmerhead]

What you got going on there, the space shuttle Danny?

My CNC spindle drive control is still down. Had sent the drive boards down south to be repaired, went down and picked them up even, as if they got lost I would be screwed. Installed them and they still don't work ..:roll:

It's the last part of old electronics that have not been updated and retrofitted. Do we have any electronic techs that can trouble shoot old board electronics at the component level here at CB?

i'm desighing elictrial system to monitor the effects of space flight on alligators, next mission there going to send one up!

skimmerhead [smilie=w:

[JIMinPHX]

thats kinda what i figured that box was. everything i read on phase converters say's you need an input disconnect box near the machine. so now i have to decide on a phase converter or a vfd and bypass that old system, will make a decision this weekend and order one monday. any suggestions anyone? thanks Jim

skimmerhead:veryconfu

If you go with a phase converter, then you will want to keep the original motor starter box. You can bypass it of you use a VFD.

For a system with a low mass start up load, like a mill, a static phase converter should be fine. The more expensive rotary phase converters do a much better job with the kind of heavy starting loads that you get when you run heavy parts on a lathe. The funny thing about the rotary type, is that they seem to run happiest when you preload them. If you have more than 1 motor running on a rotary converter & you switch just one of them on or off, then it will hardly skip a beat. They sometimes make a bit of a fuss when you go from zero load to full load all at once, but they still handle that sort of thing much better than the static type does.

[skimmerhead]

If you go with a phase converter, then you will want to keep the original motor starter box. You can bypass it of you use a VFD.

For a system with a low mass start up load, like a mill, a static phase converter should be fine. The more expensive rotary phase converters do a much better job with the kind of heavy starting loads that you get when you run heavy parts on a lathe. The funny thing about the rotary type, is that they seem to run happiest when you preload them. If you have more than 1 motor running on a rotary converter & you switch just one of them on or off, then it will hardly skip a beat. They sometimes make a bit of a fuss when you go from zero load to full load all at once, but they still handle that sort of thing much better than the static type does.

thanks for all the help!!!!!!!!

skimmerhead :arrow: [smilie=s:

[JIMinPHX]

i'm desighing elictrial system to monitor the effects of space flight on alligators, next mission there going to send one up!

skimmerhead [smilie=w:

Try not to land any of those gators at Captain Benny's in Houston. The fried gator tail there tastes terrible.

[skimmerhead]

Try not to land any of those gators at Captain Benny's in Houston. The fried gator tail there tastes terrible.

HOUSTON WE HAVE A PROBLEM!! iv'e hunted gator's, iv'e skinned gator's, but iv'e never eaten gator! alot of people do, but the thought of eating gator just doesen't appeal to me. the last one i hunted i stalked him for a whole day, he kept coming up next to my boat dock. he was a big bull gator, he was slick, whenever he saw my truck parked at the dock he'd go down. so i left my truck home and walked to the boat, about 100 yards and got my marlin .22lr with scope and waited. finally he came up and i put a shot through his eyes blinding him. he was pissed! he swam to shore and i called for help, buddy showed up and couldn't believe the size of that thing, finally killed him, got more help, it took 5 men to get him in the truck and home. he measured 11' 3" long , guessing 6 to 7 hundred pounds. my wife is going to copy the pic's of em so i can post them. big gators are dangerous, many people have lost there labrador's while water training them, kids swim in the bayou during the summer. it's just too many gators, there everywhere. iv'e killed at least a dozen big gators from my dock. but i ain't never ate none!!!

[JIMinPHX]

iv'e killed at least a dozen big gators from my dock. but i ain't never ate none!!!

The one time that I tried it, it tasted like a cross between catfish that had been laying around a little too long & a rubbery piece of chicken. I don't think that you're missing anything too special there.

I also think that you're a few bricks shy of a full load for going after one of them with a .22, but that's just my uninformed opinion. I've never messed with a live one, so I don't know much about them.

I'll stick with the buzz worms & scorpions that we have out my way before I'll tackle one of those toothy overgrown lizzards that you have out where you are.

You're a braver man than I, Gunga Dinn.

[skimmerhead]

The one time that I tried it, it tasted like a cross between catfish that had been laying around a little too long & a rubbery piece of chicken. I don't think that you're missing anything too special there.

I also think that you're a few bricks shy of a full load for going after one of them with a .22, but that's just my uninformed opinion. I've never messed with a live one, so I don't know much about them.

I'll stick with the buzz worms & scorpions that we have out my way before I'll tackle one of those toothy overgrown lizzards that you have out where you are.

You're a braver man than I, Gunga Dinn.

everyone say's i'm crazy down here, i guess that's been my reputation for as long as i can remember. but iv'e never used anything but a.22lr hunting gators. i don't hunt em anymore with my bum knee, can't get around too good. was supposed to get photo's today, but we had to attend my wife's uncle's funeral. tomorrow we have attend my niece's husband's funeral. kinda getting tired of these Jim! if my friends and family can quit dieing long enough for me to get a brake, i'll maybe get something done. still dealing with my sick wife, i pray that she gets better. i ordered a vfd for the mill, but not the ones on ebay. i got a made in the USA vfd, should get it tomorrow. i spoke with there tech support and explained to him what i had, and what i wanted to do and we came up with the right one. gonna get rid of that old setup and go digital. hoping to get that thing going this week. i have everything i need to try it out. i needed a vise and Pat told me about enco had the kurt vise on sale with free shipping, i got it in today, 6" model. that is a nice vise paw paw. i like! thanks Pat!

skimmerhead :veryconfu

[Buckshot]

http://www.fototime.com/C12AB0477A094C7/standard.jpg

...............Skimmerhead, the VFD I have on my mill is a TECO-Westinghouse. Their customer service and engineering offices are in Texas, but I don't think it was made here. I had a bit of difficulty understanding their instruction book. Thier customer service was top of the line and they got me going. Even told me how to re-wire the 2 speed, reversing 3~ motor on the mill! The rep said that the manual was actually written for people with experience using VFD's. Made me feel better but he may have just said that rather then call me a numbskull :roll:

What was actually confusing me was their explainations and illustrations about wiring up the remote controls (if you were going to be using those functions) and what you needed for switches, etc. I bought it on E-bay and it was more expensive then the majority of others. Most the others had a DOA only warranty, or maybe a 1 year warranty. I bought the TECO-Westinghouse as it came with a 3 year warranty and listed their 800 customer service number and website.

.....................Buckshot

[skimmerhead]

http://www.fototime.com/C12AB0477A094C7/standard.jpg

...............Skimmerhead, the VFD I have on my mill is a TECO-Westinghouse. Their customer service and engineering offices are in Texas, but I don't think it was made here. I had a bit of difficulty understanding their instruction book. Thier customer service was top of the line and they got me going. Even told me how to re-wire the 2 speed, reversing 3~ motor on the mill! The rep said that the manual was actually written for people with experience using VFD's. Made me feel better but he may have just said that rather then call me a numbskull :roll:

What was actually confusing me was their explainations and illustrations about wiring up the remote controls (if you were going to be using those functions) and what you needed for switches, etc. I bought it on E-bay and it was more expensive then the majority of others. Most the others had a DOA only warranty, or maybe a 1 year warranty. I bought the TECO-Westinghouse as it came with a 3 year warranty and listed their 800 customer service number and website.

.....................Buckshot

i had looked at that one and i went with the other because it seemed the manual was not as complicated, can't think of the name of it offhand i'd have to look it up. i guess that's what happen's when your remember don't work no more! i did a search on bing for vfd's and found that a lot of the one's i seen on flea bay were cheaper to buy direct. the name of the company is automation direct, i didn't remember that, i found a piece of paper on the desk where i wrote it down. :lol: it's a model gs2-21po. i could be wrong about made in USA but at this point i don't care. they have tech support, and a warranty and available accesseries so thats what i went with. but the teco was my other choice, i was on the fence and fell that way. should come in today then i'll check it out. if it ain't no good i can allways use another boat anchor! will keep you posted.

skimmerhead

[JIMinPHX]

Please let us know how the tech support from automation direct works out for you. Those guys are known for being low bidders. I'll be curious to find out how well they can back their stuff up.

Thanks,
Jim

[skimmerhead]

Please let us know how the tech support from automation direct works out for you. Those guys are known for being low bidders. I'll be curious to find out how well they can back their stuff up.

Thanks,
Jim

got it hooked up Jim! works well, the variable speed dial is great to go to any spindle speed you want, the forward-reverse motor control is touch pad control, mill runs smooth and quiet through all rpm's. i just hooked it up according too the manual and flipped the breaker and that was it. you can read the motor rpm's or the % of frequency control. i hope it last awhile. i had spoke with tech support before i bought it to make sure i was getting the right one. i explained what i had, and what i wanted and he answered all questions and explained everything the unit was capeable of and i was agreeing with him like i had a phd in electrical enginenering. IT WORK'S!! thanks for all the help.
skimmerhead:-D

[JIMinPHX]

When you use a drive, please be aware that they run in one of two modes, constant torque, or constant HP.

Below the nameplate RPM of the motor, they run in constant torque mode. The torque is always the same, regardless of how far below the nameplate RPM you go. At 1/2 speed, the motor is actually putting out 1/2 the rated HP. At 1/4 the speed, the motor is actually putting out 1/4 the rated HP. Basically torque times RPM (times a fudge factor) is HP.

Above the name plate RPM, the drive operates in constant HP mode. At 2x the nameplate RPM, you get 1/2 the torque. At 4 x you get 1/4, etc. Because of this, it is usually better to gear down low & overspeed the motor in situations where you need full HP.

If you leave your mill in high range & try to run a 3/4" diameter tool at 100 RPM, you will not get nearly the same performance that you will if you run in low gear & try the same thing with a higher motor speed.

Also, if you are running a fan cooled motor (like most of them are) then check to see that it is not overheating if you run it at low speeds for long periods of time.

Glad to hear that you made out well with that thing. They do make running a mill a lot more user friendly.

[JIMinPHX]

You may also want to take a look at the little water tight control box that I often use in that kind of application - http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=49233&page=2

I've seen a drive go up in smoke when some stray coolant or an errant aluminum chip found it's way in through an air vent in the case. For that reason, I usually mount the drive around the back side of the mill, out of harm's way & just mount a little control box up front.

[skimmerhead]

You may also want to take a look at the little water tight control box that I often use in that kind of application - http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=49233&page=2

I've seen a drive go up in smoke when some stray coolant or an errant aluminum chip found it's way in through an air vent in the case. For that reason, I usually mount the drive around the back side of the mill, out of harm's way & just mount a little control box up front.

Thank's Jim, were going to get aquainted with it in time and figure out all the bell's and whistle's on that thing. it's still on the shipping pallet, have had no time to set it in place yet with all iv'e been having to do lately. i just wanted to test it, thought about what you said and will find a place to mount it after i place the mill where i want it. my wife's in the hospital tonight, will get her back tomorrow, then we have another funeral on monday to attend. that's three in one week! i sure hope it stops for awhile.

skimmerhead

[PatMarlin]

Here Gator, gator....


http://www.patmarlins.com/Dannygator.jpg

[PatMarlin]

Dad- please tell me Danny's not bringing us them gators here is he?


http://www.patmarlins.com/gatorsnoop2.jpg





http://www.patmarlins.com/gatorsnoop1.jpg





I'm not a Gator Dog.

http://www.patmarlins.com/smallsnooper.jpg







...

[skimmerhead]

Here Gator, gator....


http://www.patmarlins.com/Dannygator.jpg

it took a while to convince him that thing was dead before he sat on it!
snoop looks like he could take care of that thing on his own, instead of a hog dog, snoop would be a gator dog!!!!!!!!!!!! that wasn't the surprize i told you about, gonna mail it to you this week, i think you'll like it.

skimm :mrgreen:

[justashooter]

What you got going on there, the space shuttle Danny?

My CNC spindle drive control is still down. Had sent the drive boards down south to be repaired, went down and picked them up even, as if they got lost I would be screwed. Installed them and they still don't work ..:roll:

It's the last part of old electronics that have not been updated and retrofitted. Do we have any electronic techs that can trouble shoot old board electronics at the component level here at CB?

normally i bitch about my machine's electronics being limited to my frontal cortex synaptic clefts, but when your board goes, it goes...

[PatMarlin]

I finally got the boards repaired and up and running. Only held me up for 4 weeks.... :roll:

[PatMarlin]

My just purchased 2nd CNC lathe...


http://www.patmarlins.com/omincollet.jpg



http://www.patmarlins.com/omnispindle.jpg

[JIMinPHX]

my wife's in the hospital tonight, will get her back tomorrow, then we have another funeral on monday to attend. that's three in one week! i sure hope it stops for awhile.


Geeze,
that's rough.

I hope that your wife gets better soon.

[skimmerhead]

Geeze,
that's rough.

I hope that your wife gets better soon.

thanks Jim! i appreiceate that.

Danny

[broomhandle]

Hi Fellows,

Little off topic here.

I'm in Augusta GA! It gets HOT & humid here.
How do you prevent your lathe from rusting. I know about a good coat of oil on the ways & gears. Should I cover it with a BBQ cover or leave it open to the air?
It is in a unheated or cooled garage.

I was thinking about a few cans of gel decsedent balls, that suck up moisture under the BBQ cover?
Any thoughts?

Best,
broomhandle

[JIMinPHX]

I prevent my lathe from rusting by using it often. That method worked for me when I lived back east too.

[skimmerhead]

I prevent my lathe from rusting by using it often. That method worked for me when I lived back east too.


good post! my biggest problem is dust, 9' garage door on each end of the barn makes a good air flow but causes a lot of dust. when i'm finished useing it i brush the chips and shaving's off with a paint brush, then i wipe it down with an oiled rag then cover it with a blue tarp. works well for me, no rust, no dust.

skimmerhead [smilie=f:

[JIMinPHX]

I find that a paint brush is a little undergunned for the chips that I tend to generate. I use a whisk broom & one of those giant aluminum dust pans.

[skimmerhead]

I find that a paint brush is a little undergunned for the chips that I tend to generate. I use a whisk broom & one of those giant aluminum dust pans.

thanks for the tip, i have one and i'll give it a try

skimmerhead

[skimmerhead]

iv'e been thinking about trying a peep hole sight on my ruger bisley 45. i've looked at a couple webb site's that have them but i'd like to try my hand at making my own. does anyone have any suggestion's on what type of metal, ect. to use? thank's

skimmerhead:confused:

[deltaenterprizes]

You going to do this by hand or with machine tools? By hand a thick washer would be easy to work with, I used one to make a front sight for my S&W 686.

[skimmerhead]

You going to do this by hand or with machine tools? By hand a thick washer would be easy to work with, I used one to make a front sight for my S&W 686.

i'm not sure where to start. i just want to make a rear site blade to interchange with original v notch blade.

skimmerhead

[deltaenterprizes]

The first thing you need to do is figure out how you are going to hold the part to work on it.
Is that an adjustable sight? Pic would help.

[skimmerhead]

The first thing you need to do is figure out how you are going to hold the part to work on it.
Is that an adjustable sight? Pic would help.

it is an adjustable sight. i'll have to remove factory blade and try to figure out how to hold it and mic the thickness of the blade, then go from there. not sure what type of metal to use or if i can mill something that thin.

skimmerhead

[deltaenterprizes]

You may want to start a new thread about making a sight blade and ask if anybody has been there done that.
Milling thin stuff can be done, using small mills at fast speeds and slow feeds. It also helps to sandwich it between some thicker metal strips to make it more rigid.

[JIMinPHX]

I'd use a piece of 1/8" thick low carbon ground stock because it's already got a good surface finish on it & it will accept bluing.

I'd grab the piece in a mill vice & leave about 1/2" hanging out the end. Then I'd form the shape that I wanted & drill the necessary hole(s). Then I'd take a series of easy passes with a fly cutter to thin it down. Then I'd cut it off & finish the edge by hand with a file. Then I'd blue it.

That's just one way to skin that cat that comes to mind off the top of my head.

[skimmerhead]

I'd use a piece of 1/8" thick low carbon ground stock because it's already got a good surface finish on it & it will accept bluing.

I'd grab the piece in a mill vice & leave about 1/2" hanging out the end. Then I'd form the shape that I wanted & drill the necessary hole(s). Then I'd take a series of easy passes with a fly cutter to thin it down. Then I'd cut it off & finish the edge by hand with a file. Then I'd blue it.

That's just one way to skin that cat that comes to mind off the top of my head.

hi Jim, how your doing? ain't talked in awhile. been busy getting my mill ready to go to work. it's ready! got the thing clean, got the head set with dial indicators, x and y, made a set of way covers for it, set the backlash on the x and y feeds. i put a kurt 6" vise and set it with my last word indicator till there was no difference from either end. i'm gonna give it a try to make that ghost sight. i'm not familiar with blueing what should i get? thanks for the tip.
skimmerhead :2_high5:

[PatMarlin]

I wish mine didn't show a change from end to end. I knew that looked like a good machine Danny.

[JIMinPHX]

hi Jim, how your doing? ain't talked in awhile. been busy getting my mill ready to go to work. it's ready! got the thing clean, got the head set with dial indicators, x and y, made a set of way covers for it, set the backlash on the x and y feeds. i put a kurt 6" vise and set it with my last word indicator till there was no difference from either end. i'm gonna give it a try to make that ghost sight. i'm not familiar with blueing what should i get? thanks for the tip.
skimmerhead :2_high5:

It sounds like you've been busy. It also sounds like you've been spending your time wisely. I'm starting to get busy again (which is a good thing) so I haven't been able to get out into the shop as much as I would like.

For bluing, I just use the cream style cold blue from Beachwood Casey that is available at many gun stores. Other people here on the board (that probably have more experience with it) recommend other brands from Brownells. More info on that here- http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=118260

edit:
Once I get a vice indicated dead straight, I like to drop a pair of 1/4" dowel pins in the base that will line up with the table slot. That way, after I take the vice off the table, I can get it back to square again quick & easy.

[JIMinPHX]

I wish mine didn't show a change from end to end. I knew that looked like a good machine Danny.

I may be wrong, but I think you are talking about two different things. I think that he is talking about indicating the master jaw of the vice parallel to the x-axis travel & you are probably talking about the table being flat from end to end & not having any wobble or droop at the extreme ends of x-travel.

[skimmerhead]

I wish mine didn't show a change from end to end. I knew that looked like a good machine Danny.

i don't know much about these type machines. but i know machines, i never met one i couldn't break, never met one i couldn't fix. this machine would be in better shape if it had been cared for instead of having it in a trade school where care and maintence would have been the rule. but it has a good home now! before i trammed the head to the table i honed the table top a bit to get any nicks out. i had to adjust the side to side about 5 thou. and the forward tilt about two thou. when i put the vise on i used a last word indicator chucked in the spindle and got it to zero all across the jaw face, then i tourqed the bolts and checked everthing again and everything is good to go. i stripped that big elictrical box that was on the side and used it to mount the vfd in it. i mounted it on the rear of the mill so it'll be protected. i got a 3 meter cable to use the control panel remotely. put an on off disconnect box on the side just in case. changed the way wipes, made a set of way covers. i think i got it all done. i'm gonna make a collet rack for it when i get a chance, there was one there cause the holes are drilled and tapped and i could see the outline where it was. tell snoop hi for me!

skimmerhead:2_high5:

[skimmerhead]

I may be wrong, but I think you are talking about two different things. I think that he is talking about indicating the master jaw of the vice parallel to the x-axis travel & you are probably talking about the table being flat from end to end & not having any wobble or droop at the extreme ends of x-travel.

your right i was talking about the vise. i didn't check the table all the way across, i went about about a foot each side of center, i figured it was good for me.

skimmerhead :popcorn:

[skimmerhead]

It sounds like you've been busy. It also sounds like you've been spending your time wisely. I'm starting to get busy again (which is a good thing) so I haven't been able to get out into the shop as much as I would like.

For bluing, I just use the cream style cold blue from Beachwood Casey that is available at many gun stores. Other people here on the board (that probably have more experience with it) recommend other brands from Brownells. More info on that here- http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=118260

edit:
Once I get a vice indicated dead straight, I like to drop a pair of 1/4" dowel pins in the base that will line up with the table slot. That way, after I take the vice off the table, I can get it back to square again quick & easy.

thats a good tip! glad your getting busy again. been spending alot of time in the shop, it keeps my mind occupied. things have settled down here, no more funerals lately, my wife is getting better, i'm feeling better also so thats a good thing. we had kinda rough spell for awhile. i hope things stay quiet. thanks for the tip.

skimmerhead :goodpost:

[deltaenterprizes]

To blue your sight blade just heat it with a torch and plunge it in some oil, it does not have to be red hot. I blue screw heads the same way.

[skimmerhead]

To blue your sight blade just heat it with a torch and plunge it in some oil, it does not have to be red hot. I blue screw heads the same way.

hey buddy, whats up? been down lately? i'll try that tip see how it turns out, thanks

skimm

[El Bango]

I have an old (1930's) Logan 12X36 with an 1 3/8" hole thru the spindle. It's made me a pile of money.But the thing I really like abiut it is any part I need can be had through Logan Actuator in Chicago in just a few days.

[Linstrum]

i'm not familiar with blueing what should i get? thanks for the tip.
skimmerhead :2_high5:

Unless a truly blue color is wanted, I just use Roy Dunlap's famous blacking formula for small parts. This formula makes a HARD metallic black coating that can't be scratched with a wire brush, and that is tough!

Roy Dunlap's recipe of 65 parts lye to 35 parts potassium nitrate calls for one gallon of water for ten pounds of dry mixed salts. Water weighs exactly 8-1/3 pounds per gallon (that is the definition of a gallon of water, 12 gallons of water weighs exactly 100 pounds). So by weight, the water is pretty close to 55% of the total mix. The reason why I'm mentioning this is so you can make up small amounts of blacking solution. I have never made up a full ten pounds of salts with one gallon of water, I have only blacked little things like triggers, hammers, screws, etc., and only a few ounces of salts is required for parts that you can hold in one hand. Besides, making up ten pounds of salts would probably cost $50 - $100 because potassium nitrate and lye are pretty expensive nowadays, so it is just poor economics to make up a full $100 of blacking solution for a $2 part. At least the solution is stable and WHEN COLD can be stored in a glass container with an iron lid. Don't use aluminum, it just plain vanishes in contact with this solution because of the lye.


I don't measure the amount of water I use in the blacking solution, I go by the boiling point to determine how much water to put in. The amount of water used is not great, at room temperature add just enough water drop by drop to make a thin paste. As it heats up the paste rapidly turns into a liquid solution because the lye and potassium nitrate crystals dissolve into the water. The amount of water in the solution rapidly boils off so more water has to be added CAREFULLY while in use. Of great importance is monitoring the temperature of the solution since a temperature above about 350°F will destroy the strength of the steel by ruining its heat treat. DO NOT USE A GLASS THERMOMETER, THE HOT LYE SOLUTION RAPIDLY DISSOLVES GLASS! Use a thermocouple or remote infrared or laser thermometer to check the temperature instead.

rl 1065

[El Bango]

Get a machine with as much tooling as possible,the initial outlay of cash is tough enough but you need a ton of tooling like a 3 and 4 jaw chuck, steady rest, live and dead centers,drill chuck,if you plan on doing barrel work you want at least 36"between centers,if you can get a taper attachment that would be a big plus,a good quick change tool holder like an Aloris or a Phase II ,and make sure the headstock has at least a 1 1/2" hole through the headstock.Also use carbide inert tools (unless you want to waste time and money sharpening tools)you wil also need drill bits,(don't skimp on these you get what you pay for) combination center drills,taps cutting fluids and a Machinerys Handbook and I'm sure I forgot a pile of things but you'll figure it out as you go.Oh yeah you"ll need a drill press to get you by until you buy a mill then I'll have another list that'd break the Pope,have fun brother.

[skimmerhead]

i haven't posted here in awhile, but i have some photos i'm gonna post of some of the projects iv'e done, tooling i bought, new 16x40 lathe, and my bridgeport mill. i still have my atlas. i thought of selling it but i can't. i find myself still useing it even though i have the new machine.

skimmerhead

[PatMarlin]

I still use my 11x28 Logan every day for second ops and making tools Danny. I couldn't be without it.

[skimmerhead]

I still use my 11x28 Logan every day for second ops and making tools Danny. I couldn't be without it.
hi pat, how your doin? awhile back i found a pratt burnerd 6" setrite 3 jaw scroll chuck. a fellow bought some boxs at an auction and it happened to be some stuff from a lathe supply that went out of business. in one of the boxs there was this setrite chuck, new in box with manual and acc. with a back plate threaded 11/2" x 8 thread. for three hundred bucks i bought it before he changed his mind! after i put that chuck on that atlas and dialed it in i was amazed at the repeatable accuracy of it. i don't bother to use dial indicators, put it in the chuck and forget about it. i only had 4 jaw chucks and thats great, but it sure saves alot of setup time and work. i'd like to put one on the new machine, but thats alot of bucks, and the scroll chuck thats on there is pretty good so i'll wait awhile on that. between the chuck and the QC toolpost it made that little lathe into a machine thats a pleasure to work with. i'll be posting photos soon. hows snoop?

skimmerhead:drinks:

[PatMarlin]

I'm good Danny. I'm setting up my new shop. Snoop's watchdoggin'.

All my daily stuff is small so I use 5C collets and a 5C chuck's 3" and 4" a lot.

http://www.patmarlins.com/SnoooSunup.jpg

[skimmerhead]

I'm good Danny. I'm setting up my new shop. Snoop's watchdoggin'.

All my daily stuff is small so I use 5C collets and a 5C chuck's 3" and 4" a lot.

http://www.patmarlins.com/SnoooSunup.jpg

thanks for the photo. it's good to see him at work!

snoop's friend:bigsmyl2:

[akajun]

Skimmerhead, good to hear from you. I too have been busy, got a Lagun Mill, my Grizzly 14x40 gunsmith lathe, sold the Atlas.

BTW I may have a line on 3 Monarch 10EE's and Some Leblond Servo Shifts tool and die lathes. They will need work and chucks/tooling to get them going, but the price will be right if you would be interested.

[skimmerhead]

:cbpour:
Skimmerhead, good to hear from you. I too have been busy, got a Lagun Mill, my Grizzly 14x40 gunsmith lathe, sold the Atlas.

BTW I may have a line on 3 Monarch 10EE's and Some Leblond Servo Shifts tool and die lathes. They will need work and chucks/tooling to get them going, but the price will be right if you would be interested.

Hey Man! good to hear from you. i aprecieate the info but i have enough machines now, more than i can use, maybe after i have my knee surgery i'll be a little more mobile. when i move its like the super slow motion cameras the nhra use to film the top fuel dragsters, where you can see each cylinder fire when they take off.:bigsmyl2: well it feels like that anyway. i don't think i'll sell my atlas now that i have it allmost the way i want it. the only other thing i want to do is put a vfd so i can wire a variable speed knob with a digital readout tachometer. that variable speed with digital tach readout on my new machine took only a couple days to spoil me. the 2 1/16 thru hole and 7 1/2 hp motor, dro, and taper attachment, coolant system, did help some also. glad to hear you got a Lagun Mill, i hear there some good machines, i was looking at one when i found my bridgeport and got it instead. a good cleaning some adjustments here and there, put a vfd for power and a servo brand powerfeed for the table, and its smooth and accurate. i bet you like that lathe too, glad to hear it.

skimmerhead

[John 242]

A man that doesen't make mistakes is a man that isn't doing his job, a man that doesen't learn from his mistake's doesen't want to do his job.
skimmerhead :-P
Awesome!
You have no idea how inspirational that is to me right now. I appreciate it.

[skimmerhead]

Awesome!
You have no idea how inspirational that is to me right now. I appreciate it.

John, iv'e been called a lot of things in sixty years, but never inspirational! i'm totaly flabbergasterated.
skimmerhead:drinks:8-)

[monge]

Shop around 5k will buy you a good lathe and mill both new or used check this web site they ship enenywere in the world : Machinery Values .com Good luck JOE

[skimmerhead]

You stick with me Danny and you'll be called other things too ...:mrgreen:

Patmarlin- the evil incarnate scam artist checkmaker business man across the net.. :roll:

Well at least Snoop thinks his Dad's ok... :mrgreen:

Got the AC mounted for the shop today. 103 in the shade. Having a tech fire it up Monday, maybe. I ain't working in no heat...!
i'm with snoop! he ain't stupid! iv'e seen him curled up at your feet next to the fire. Amen on the AC! 103 in the shade! where did you move to, the middle of the desert?
the evil scam artist! i don't believe anyone ever called you that, c'mon man! i'll stick with you maybe someday someone will say you were an insperation. you can't be that bad snoop keeps you around!!!!!!!!!!! [smilie=s:

Danny:lol:

[skimmerhead]

i'm gonna try posting some photo's of some of the projects iv'e done.
skimmerhead

[Tokarev]

Are you into offroading, skimmerhead?
If I was building those winches, I would have added a couple more bolts to attach each of the brackets to the plate, and also welded enforcement to the brackets to counter sideways force that may be applied from anchoring cable off the center line of the truck.

The lathes I was using at school in Europe (and that was almost 30 years ago) had 2 rows of 4 levers for changing speed. So there were 16 speeds from 50 to 2500 RPM if I remember correctly. What is that kind of lathe called?

[skimmerhead]

Are you into offroading, skimmerhead?
If I was building those winches, I would have added a couple more bolts to attach each of the brackets to the plate, and also welded enforcement to the brackets to counter sideways force that may be applied from anchoring cable off the center line of the truck.

The lathes I was using at school in Europe (and that was almost 30 years ago) had 2 rows of 4 levers for changing speed. So there were 16 speeds from 50 to 2500 RPM if I remember correctly. What is that kind of lathe called?

no i don't do any off roading. those winch's were built for a specific application for a shrimp boat. there is no lateral movment, simply pick up weight's of appr. 400 pounds. the charlyn 2000 series hydrualic motors i used are capeble of a lot more, they have alot of tourqe when used with the correct gpm pump. i have built many other type's for alot heavier duty and alot bigger. i'm not sure, but it sounds like you had a qwick change gear box on it, other than that i couldn't say.
skimmerhead

[Tokarev]

yeah, quick change is the word.

[edwin41]

Are you into offroading, skimmerhead?
If I was building those winches, I would have added a couple more bolts to attach each of the brackets to the plate, and also welded enforcement to the brackets to counter sideways force that may be applied from anchoring cable off the center line of the truck.

The lathes I was using at school in Europe (and that was almost 30 years ago) had 2 rows of 4 levers for changing speed. So there were 16 speeds from 50 to 2500 RPM if I remember correctly. What is that kind of lathe called?

hi , i think you are reffering to the mondiale celtic 12 lathes , as they were very popular at schools at that time.
it was build in belgium , i learned to use a lathe at school on this type , and now i have one !