New shop update

[country gent]

Im getting ready to put up a pole barn with a enclosed room for a shop. The room will be stud walls inside the pole barn Insulated and Heated and air conditioned not only for my comfort but also to enhance accuracy. Room is going to be 20' X 30'. Basic tools lathe, mill, saw, grinder, maybe a shaper and horizontal mill as to machines. also a tig welder. My wood working equipment will be stored in the building outside the room to save clutter in the shop. Ceiling will be 10'. Air line will be a 2" line center of the ceiling running down center with drops at machines and benches. Air compressor will be in the building garage area also. 1 6' door direct to out side. One 8' panel door to inside of the building. At least 1 bench maybe several. Im considering lighting now. What works best for doing precision work? Are LEDs up to the task or are they to yellow / shadows? Ive worked under mercury vapors ( yellow and shadows both along with a hum) Florecents a dull light but okay for most fine work. light bulbs good light but takes a lot of them to overcome shadows. Im wanting a good light that's dependable and lasting, Im in a wheel chair so changing bulbs is a real pain. Ive thought about angled fixtures down each wall in the ceiling wall corner 4 fixtures down each side. The 10; ceiling should help some with the shadows also.

[labradigger1]

4100 kelvin led 4’ fixtures suspended at 8’ from finished floor. Long lasting, cold does not affect them.
Second choice would be high bay lighting but you will change bulbs more frequently than led

[sawinredneck]

30x30x16’ metal building, I have eight porcelain screw in bulb holders with LED’s and a ceiling fan with an LED, it’s plenty bright in here for me.
231494

[osteodoc08]

LED all the way. Way brighter and whiter with very long life. And more economical from electricity used but more costly to start with (initial cost) but coming down very very quickly.

[Adam20]

In my shop I used 48” LED, they work good, not yellow, you have to put enough in to avoid shadows,
Lithiona lighting was brand, $40 each no issues with them yet with 1 year of use 2-3 hours a day

[RP]

The LEDs I have seen in large shops have been small round fixtures they are installing around town replacing 8 foot fixtures they are brighter and they only have two to three to a bay. My brother installed the 4 foot LED fixtures you can buy at the big box stores replacing the 4 foot tubes they light up when its cold and they are very bright.
Something to keep in mind all LEDs are not the same they have different light out put levels when they look the same. As far as the cold or how they hold up it not that cold here for long term and he has had his up for about a year so far without any problem. The shops I speak of have only been up about 3 months.
I was told by a friend that had his garage done there is a salesman going around to the shops selling the package deal to replace his lighting and for the cost he told me he could not have bought new 8 foot fixtures for what it cost him for the LEDs and labor. I have a feeling they are getting some kind of goverment help for going green.

[Brokenbear]

LED all the way ..4 footers ..can be had in different temperatures (light color) and Lumen choices (brightness) ...lots of internet info on the color and lumen needs for specific work environments ... up front cost is not much more than good reflective florescent ..operating cost is considerably less and maintenance goes to all but zero

Bear

[lefty o]

ive gone to LED's, and am never going back. you can get about any color light you want, but for bright white light to work in 4-5000 kelvins is where you want to be. i suggest going to a menards or other store with large light area so you can look at them all lit.

[DDriller]

2 BigAss Lights will make it look like daylight in the shop. They are a little expensive but the output in awesome.

[Jniedbalski]

Led in a shop is the way to go. Very bright and white light. The old mercury vapor lights where a yellow light that had shadows. With led no shadows and they have come down a lot in price. They also last a lot longer. I have worked on all the different lighting systems working in schools ,shops, garages, and led is so much better.

[Chad5005]

i have a 50x75 shop and i put 16 4 bulb 4ft t8 fixture lights in it and its super bright,no shadows anywhere

[David2011]

In my 2 car garage there are 2 single light bulb sockets in the ceiling. I put 100 watt equivalent LED 4000K bulbs in them and it's very well lit for a garage. I could certainly build airplanes in that lighting.

We're moving to a different house soon and the garage has T-5 fluorescents. All of them have bad ballasts which are about $26 each. Our new LED shop lights arrived today and I tested each one to make sure they worked. No all of the Amazon reviews were great but as with many Amazon reviews I was scratching my head after testing these lights.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D94M16B/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076XVX1VN/ref=sspa_dk_detail_7?psc=1

They are BRIGHT! All worked as expected. They seem to sell very fast. We wanted the clear tubes but only the frosted ones were available on the day we ordered. Today the clear ones are available and the frosted are out of stock. They don't weigh a lot and while the fixtures are not as heavy as the old T-12 and T-8 fixtures, they don't need to be because there's no ballast and the LEDs weigh virtually nothing. The tubes are flexible plastic so very resistant to breakage. I only wish they had been available in 4000°K instead of 5000°K.

[retread]

I went with some 6 bulb Vanity bathroom fixtures and mounted them on the ceiling. Fixtures and bulbs were cheap on Amazon. Lots of light! I plan on replacing all florescents as the go out with the same LED setups.

231498

[Grmps]

I use a combination of LED 4 ft fixtures and LED strip lights. the strip lights are great under shelves, good light they stick on and don't take up much room

[Petrol & Powder]

All good information.

If you have any plans to work on vehicles in that building I recommend placing a few lights on the walls about 2' down from that 10' ceiling. Lights on the ceiling are fine for most work but the hoods, trunk lids and vehicle itself cause shadows when the lights are only on the ceiling. By placing a few lamps high up, but not at the top of the walls; you get far better coverage when working on vehicles. A light directly over a vehicle ends up illuminating the roof and hood while casting shadows under the hood. Lights on the upper walls of the shop are the difference between needing a work lamp every time you open the hood verses not always needing that extra light. Little things like that save work over the long run.

The old incandescent blubs use a lot more power (bad) and produce a lot of heat (bad in the summer, good in the winter). However there's another advantage to the old incandescent bulbs and that's a lack of RF interference for some radio gear, particularly AM radio. The ballasts on fluorescent fixtures are the worst for creating interference but even some of the LED fixtures produce a lot interference. Because of that, I keep a few incandescent lights around the bench for the times I want to listen to a radio while working. Overall, LED is the way to go in terms of light output/power consumed/heat produced.
I have a large halogen two bulb lamp hanging over my reloading bench because LEDs were not available when I built that setup. It produces excellent light for that type of work but I wouldn't want a lot of those fixtures in a shop. They consume a lot of power and make a lot of heat. Again that heat can be useful at times, like when drying paint, stain, polyurethane, etc. on small items during the winter.

So, my input on this project is to use LED's for the bulk of the area lighting but consider some specific incandescent fixtures for a few isolated work stations.

[EDG]

The US government has published standards for industrial lighting.
The color of a shop is also important for minimizing eye strain.
You might research industrial engineering references for over all lighting. Even with quality lighting you will probably want a lamp directly on some of the work stations.

[snowwolfe]

Don't cheap out. My workshop is 32x32 and it has 20, 2 bulb fluorescent fixtures (4 ft bulbs). I wanted super bright but didnt get it. Should of had 24 or more fixtures installed.
Ceiling is 10 foot high

[Thumbcocker]

Harbor freight had 4' LED lights on sale this month.

[country gent]

Im currently thinking of mounting 4 down the center of the ceiling and 3 down each side in the corner of the ceiling wall joint at an angle ( pointing to the floor wall across the room) Also having each run on separate switch so what is needed can be turned on. Since the air compressor is going to be outside the room also a switch for it. Im thinking also a separate breaker box for the room inside set up so it can be locked out for security. Here I can use the box as control for lights, equipment, furnace and air conditioner. Im also thinking of increasing the main air line to 3" for a little more capacity. A 3" X 30' supply is a pretty good supply in addition to the tank on the compressor. Not planning on any vehicles in this room ( other than grand sons bicycles when they need repaired or customized). But the bigger doors make it easier for me and the wheel chair to get thru, along with any new equipment. My wood working equipment will be on castors and floor locks so it can be stored outside the room when not needed. Lathe Mill Shaper grinder and other machines will be anchored and leveled in place. Planning on a 10" concrete floor under the shop area and 6" rest of building so I should have a good base to work from. Thinking a semi smooth finish for the floor short of a brushed finish ( hard to sweep up chips and fine shaving from a brushed floor) I may use it a few years then put down an epoxy finish. Another idea is 2X4 grating 1" thick in the top of the concrete floor to add support and strength to it. Have also considered a wood block floor on top of the concrete, my issue with this is once laid in tight a leak or water swells them and you get "turtles" in the floor from the expansion.

[429421Cowboy]

LED is the way to go, with more lights than recommended/you think you need. One thing I have learned from my boss here is that more light is never a bad thing. We have LED's every 4 feet in our machine shop and mechanic shop, mostly the old T8 fixtures with LED conversions in them. Plenty enough to not have any shadows, and they put out good color lights. The other benefits is that I can run a huge number if lights on the same circuit that used to only run 8 T8 lights.

[lefty o]

3 rows of 3 of these will light up a 20x30 very well. white painted walls will help with any lighting also.https://www.menards.com/main/lighting-ceiling-fans/indoor-lighting/work-shop-lights/smart-electrician-reg-5000-lumens-46-x-6-led-tread-plate-shop-light/pes120led-st1-s-4800/p-1493360352403-c-1446215532061.htm?tid=-6991789250888191422&ipos=24

[Hdskip]

3 rows of 3 of these will light up a 20x30 very well. white painted walls will help with any lighting also.https://www.menards.com/main/lighting-ceiling-fans/indoor-lighting/work-shop-lights/smart-electrician-reg-5000-lumens-46-x-6-led-tread-plate-shop-light/pes120led-st1-s-4800/p-1493360352403-c-1446215532061.htm?tid=-6991789250888191422&ipos=24

If you think you will need x number. double it . you won't regret it.

[lefty o]

If you think you will need x number. double it . you won't regret it.

if you double the number of them in a 20x30 shop, youll burn out your eyeballs lol. 3 rows of 4 maybe, but not double. i generally agree though, hard to go wrong with more light.

[lightman]

My shop is 30 X 30 with an 11 ft eve height and about 13 ft to the center. I used six 8ft fluorescent fixtures over the main floor and another 8 ft fixture over the work bench. I have plenty of light for general projects but often use supplemental light for special projects. The original lights were T-12's, high out put and low temp. These are obsolete now and have been rewired for T-8 bulbs. When my stock of spare bulbs and ballast are gone I'll convert them to LED. As a retired electrician I recommend against the fixtures found at the big box stores. They are often lighter and more cheaply made than a good quality fixture like a Lithonia. Switching them by rows is a good idea.

[alamogunr]

+X on the LED's. I don't have them in my shop/casting/reloading shed. If I live long enough I'll replace the present T12 fixtures with LED fixtures. I really don't expect that to happen. When I built the shop, a friend who has a lot of commercial buildings was replacing all the lights in his buildings with T8's(may have moved to LED's by now). I got a couple of boxes of 4' T12's from him. I've only used about a half dozen so far, about 15 years. I realize that I could save on the electric bill but would never recoup my money on replacing the fixtures.

We remodeled the fellowship hall at church and had all LED fixtures put in. Excellent lighting!

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

SNIP...

The old incandescent blubs use a lot more power (bad) and produce a lot of heat (bad in the summer, good in the winter). However there's another advantage to the old incandescent bulbs and that's a lack of RF interference for some radio gear, particularly AM radio. The ballasts on fluorescent fixtures are the worst for creating interference but even some of the LED fixtures produce a lot interference. Because of that, I keep a few incandescent lights around the bench for the times I want to listen to a radio while working. Overall, LED is the way to go in terms of light output/power consumed/heat produced.

While I don't have scientific evidence, I have bought several different inexpensive 120volt LED bulbs from different Asian sources on ebay, and every one of those created interference with AM radio (I am a big AM radio fan)...BUT, LED bulbs that I purchased locally, that have a USA brand name like Sylvania, DID NOT create interference with AM radio. It took me a while, But I have replaced all of the Asian RF interference makers. Also, some will produce immediate light when it'd cold, -20ºF...and some LED's are slow to produce light, like the Corkscrew florescent bulbs...Again, the Sylvania produced light when cold. FYI, I am a fan of the Sylvania bulbs.

I suspect they are all made in China, but maybe some American manufacturer contracts specify that FCC rules are followed...Just my guess...

[MostlyLeverGuns]

LED's, more lights on the same circuits, As you get older more light makes a difference when doing fine or close work. Had old T8 fluorescents in barns, garages, took a long time to reach full brightness when cold. The ability to get more light out the circuits is most appealing to me.

[FLINTNFIRE]

I started switching to LED around 5 years ago first in house hallways then main lights as my fluorescent would die , wired outlets to ceiling in both reloading room and in casting , then as I built shop I wired outlets to rafters to plug in to . I am putting more spaced between and on other half of shop, all the outlets are wired to its own switch and second outlet in circut on rafter is on same switch as the 4 ft plug in shop lights have pull chains . Turn on one or both I like the idea of having more and some above bench as has been mentioned as you age you need the light . Put in a few with bluetooth speakers for playing music from phone , it can be ok or annoying when it dings when it senses your phone .

[lightman]

While I don't have scientific evidence, I have bought several different inexpensive 120volt LED bulbs from different Asian sources on ebay, and every one of those created interference with AM radio (I am a big AM radio fan)...BUT, LED bulbs that I purchased locally, that have a USA brand name like Sylvania, DID NOT create interference with AM radio. It took me a while, But I have replaced all of the Asian RF interference makers. Also, some will produce immediate light when it'd cold, -20ºF...and some LED's are slow to produce light, like the Corkscrew florescent bulbs...Again, the Sylvania produced light when cold. FYI, I am a fan of the Sylvania bulbs.

I suspect they are all made in China, but maybe some American manufacturer contracts specify that FCC rules are followed...Just my guess...

I don't listen to much AM but this is good info. I wonder if they will effect a digital scale? I've had a few LED bulbs that failed much sooner than I expected. All of these were medium base screw in types. I've not become a full fan of them yet!

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Lightman,
The only LEDs that failed for me, were some Cheap Asian Ebay bulbs that I bought 4 years ago for ceiling fan lights, they had the small candelabra base. They ran pretty HOT. When I ordered them, the comparable ones locally were crazy expensive...Anyway, I had 6 go bad in about 30 days from install (two ceiling fans, each had 3 light fixtures). I ordered some more LEDs from ebay, these were the "COB" style (instead of bulb shape) with candelabra base, those failed quick also. After that, I spent the big bucks at the local big box store for Sylvania's, I think they were $7 each (Ebay bulbs were less than $2). But they are still working today, 3.5 years later...and no RF interference.

[Petrol & Powder]

While I don't have scientific evidence, I have bought several different inexpensive 120volt LED bulbs from different Asian sources on ebay, and every one of those created interference with AM radio (I am a big AM radio fan)...BUT, LED bulbs that I purchased locally, that have a USA brand name like Sylvania, DID NOT create interference with AM radio. It took me a while, But I have replaced all of the Asian RF interference makers. Also, some will produce immediate light when it'd cold, -20ºF...and some LED's are slow to produce light, like the Corkscrew florescent bulbs...Again, the Sylvania produced light when cold. FYI, I am a fan of the Sylvania bulbs.

I suspect they are all made in China, but maybe some American manufacturer contracts specify that FCC rules are followed...Just my guess...

Thanks for that info. Also a big fan of radio. I've got a LED in a fixture near a radio that doesn't produce interference for about the first 3-4minutes but does after being on for more than 4 minutes. I can't find a location of manufacture anywhere on that bulb but I suspect it's Asian made. (it was cheap). It's switched separately in the fixture so that I can turn it off but it took a while to isolate it as the source of the interference.
Because I do listen to AM radio a lot, it's good to know there are U.S.A. made LED bulbs that don't produce interference. The life of a LED bulb is long enough that it's worth it to me to purchase the better quality bulbs if they're available.

[mold maker]

Don't forget the old adage, If it seems too good to be true, it probably is. I bought the cheap Walmart LEDs and they were done in less than a month.
They were originally bright and refreshing but quickly started flickering and failed. I had the same luck with the cheap corkscrew fluorescents. We spent enough extra for these to have lighted the home with incondecents for years. Seems every new technology is quickly embraced by those intent on profits at our expence.
So far I have been impressed with the 120v LED 4' bulbs I had several old-style fluorescents that needed ballasts. I had them replaced for less than ballast prices and boy what a difference. Instant on and bright beyond expatation. While bright they are easy on the eyes and make fine print readable to these old eyes.

[Rubino1988]

Amazon has really good deals on led lights I got 4 bar lights for 50$

[Menner]

I built a 24 x 40 building this past summer used these am very happy with them $25 a pop
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0728P14FR/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[jonp]

LED's all the way. Are they bright enough? Towns are replacing traditional streetlights with them so that should answer your question. Just watch which ones you get in the Kelvin range.

We moved to the corkscrew ones and then to the led's on all the fixtures around the house except for a couple like the droplight I have in my well house to keep the waterline from freezing. One 40w does that nicely.

Very happy with them once the correct light range was found. Daylight in the hall, reloading room etc for brightness, mid range for the others for a less harsh light. The bright daylight ones are like an operating room. I have a strip of mini led's across the top of my casting bench and it's plenty bright for that.

[NyFirefighter357]

30x30x16’ metal building, I have eight porcelain screw in bulb holders with LED’s and a ceiling fan with an LED, it’s plenty bright in here for me.
231494

This is a very easy and cheap way to get good lighting. We are replacing 8-8FT florescent fixtures in my buddies garage like this. The plastic porcelain style fixtures are less than $1.50ea. The ceiling boxes are $1ea. GE 75W equivalents run about $6ea or EcoSmarts run about $4ea and grab yourself a light bulb changer for about $25

[Mal Paso]

My Costco has the 4' LED Shop lights for $20 again. I bought 4 today.

I've had a couple for 2 years now. They really light up the tool shed. Cool White 4000K

[KenH]

Here is a good source of 4 ft LED bulbs. They have single bulbs as well as fixtures.
https://greenlightdepot.com/collections/4ft-led-tubes

A note on LED 4 ft bulbs - they are of two main types for retrofitting to existing fixtures. Either remove old ballast and wire direct to 120 vac wiring, or the type that requires the existing ballast to work making it easy to replace the old bulb with new LED bulb. I MUCH prefer the type that does NOT require ballast - just something else to go wrong. Like most other folks I like the 5,000K for the bright white lighting.

The bulbs I ordered from these folks did not cause RF interference - I do have some LED spot lights that do. Those I must turn off when using HAM radio.

[Lloyd Smale]

did my pole barn with 4 foot ballasted flouresents and bought a case of extra bulbs so im stuck with them for a while yet but if I was doing it again leds would be a no brainer.

[Lloyd Smale]

I had some of the first batch (I didn't buy they were given away free at my wifes workplace) fail in a few months. I replaced them with ones I bought and all of them are going on two years now.
Lightman,
The only LEDs that failed for me, were some Cheap Asian Ebay bulbs that I bought 4 years ago for ceiling fan lights, they had the small candelabra base. They ran pretty HOT. When I ordered them, the comparable ones locally were crazy expensive...Anyway, I had 6 go bad in about 30 days from install (two ceiling fans, each had 3 light fixtures). I ordered some more LEDs from ebay, these were the "COB" style (instead of bulb shape) with candelabra base, those failed quick also. After that, I spent the big bucks at the local big box store for Sylvania's, I think they were $7 each (Ebay bulbs were less than $2). But they are still working today, 3.5 years later...and no RF interference.

[nun2kute]

Looks like you got the lighting all taken care of. If I had to do it over again, I would alter the shape of my house and drop the roof line at the garage wall, creating shorter ceilings. I wanted taller at the time, so I could swing a 4X8' sheet of plywood around without dinging the ceiling drywall or breaking lights. I wasn't thinking about heating it at the time. It's 23 degrees as I type, which is relatively warm for this time of year, its just too much space to heat. I now wish for 8' ceilings.

[mold maker]

A ceiling fan in an out of the way position will make use of some of that wasted heat, but it will also spread the dust more evenly.

[country gent]

Mould maker, Im planning on a vent to outside the building to exchange the air in the room every hour or so to help with smoke when welding and machining.

[woodbutcher]

[smilie=s: Hi country gent.If you are thinking about a floor finish like you spoke of,I would have it done when the floor has been fresh poured and cured.
If you don`t you will have the extra expense of having to clean and/or grind the surface so that the epoxy finish will bond to the cement.If the epoxy does`nt bind to the floor on curing,the whole floor will possibly have to be taken down to fresh cement before refinishing.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

[country gent]

Woodbutcher, Im still thinking on the floor its a bigger thing My favorite "chair" is my Trac Chair so its got to be a durable solid surface. Im considering epoxy coatings, the hard surface finish they do on concrete. And also a traditional ( for machine shops) wood block floor on top of the concrete. The smooth float finished concrete will be durable and easy to sweep chips and sawdust off of and to clean. Tracks will leave scuffs when turning. The hard finished concrete looks better with the same benefits an issues. The wood block floor is easer to stand on and more comfortable, more cushion than concrete. Im thinking 6" X 6" X 3" blocks. (Stack them in like the old cobble stone roads). Here when laid in snug moisture can swell them and cause "turtle" to form. More of a fire hazard when welding and cutting. And the big thing is Im afraid the trac chair may pull them up when turning.
Ive got lighting about figured out, venting, heat and AC. walls and ceiling. Still need to make a scale drawing and rough in machine lay out, electrical outlets, Benches. Service panel. I need to decide on floor, Hoist, and some other little things. Windows will be up higher so busy bodies cant look in. This may also help let more natural light in to room and building, and help with security some.

[woodbutcher]

[smilie=s: Hi country gent.Thanks for the reply.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

[Handloader109]

I'm a contrarian, I really don't like my 8ft drywalled, stippled ceiling. Prior owner did it. Stippled ceiling in a garage. Stupid. Lights are too low. 9ft would be great. 10 ft even better. Heat be darned.
Make sure you wait 30 days to epoxy the floor.

[country gent]

HandLoader, Im planning on waiting 2 months on the shop floor before I start moving equipment in. Give it plenty of time to cure and stop releasing moisture. Just to be on the safe side. ( I have read where some engineers claim the Hoover dams concrete is still curing in places). Ill bet the building will be nice and warm while the floor is curing out LOL. ight now If I can get it Im planning on 7 bag mix hair and tram for the floor. May have some color added to it instead of paint or epoxy. That way me being my clumsy self when I drop something and chip it, it wont show as bad.

Moving machine equipment is much easier with the taller door and 10' ceiling. I also have found the taller ceiling gives better more even light distribution ( maybe not the right term but).

[joed]

I'm all for the new LED lighting. I have a large garage that had 4 fluorescent lights. In the winter it was a **** shoot if 2 of them would even come on. The others start out pretty dim but do brighten.

I have since replaced the 2 lights with 4 ft LEDs and I'm totally sold on them. They light instantly and give more light. The last 2 will be replaced in the spring.

[country gent]

Talked to the contractor Thursday. next month or so the garage comes down and a 40X50 pole building goes up. ridge light and 3 ft cupula for natural light. 2030 inside room for my shop 10 ft ceiling. Have to get the building permit and the garage cleaned out. 1 contractor is doing it all start to finish removing building, moving a small building, putting up the building and pouring concrete. 10" concrete under the shop area. rebar 24" centers thru floor. 2 10ft garage doors 1 8 ft garage door. chain fall openers on doors. 1 6' entry door and one 4' entry door. 3 windows.

[labradigger1]

Good grief! 10” concrete floor?

[country gent]

Only under the shop where the lathe mill grinders and shaper will be. 6" of it is freebie from the old garage to boot. Gives ma a very stable floor and saves having it broken up and hauled away. The big horizontal boring mill at work sat on a 6' thick pad separate from the floor.

[Three44s]

Good grief! 10” concrete floor?

You have to realize when it comes to heavy shop equipment Country Gent “comes loaded for BEAR”. Lol!

CG,

You will wonder how you ever got along without LED lighting, it’s the rips for seasoned eyes!

Three44s

[lightman]

It sounds like you have a nice shop planned. I wish my shop floor was thicker but I was not there when they poured it.

[1911sw45]

make sure they tie the old floor with the new floor

[country gent]

THey are planning on rebar in the old floor at 45* angle 2" up and roughing the surface up. The "standing up" rebar is also going to be used to help support the new floors rebar

[MaryB]

Go a tad brighter with LED than you want. They lose a little brightness with age and in 6 months or so will be a bit dimmer.

[Mal Paso]

$20 Costco LED Shop lights won't work with a 10" slab. You need "Industrial LED Lighting" all wired in conduit for that. LOL

[country gent]

Dad routinely poured floors at 6". If it was a barn floor and heavy loads 8" with heavy rebar and wire mesh.( 300 bushels of shelled corn in a wagon gets pretty heavy). Look at the foot print of most machines sitting on leveling feet the Pounds per square inch is higher than most think. The heavier floor also improves finishes with its resistance to vibration and stability. While I'm not planning on any really big equipment a shaper may go 1800 lbs or a little more when sitting on 4-5" leveling feet that a lot of concentrated weight.

[country gent]

Paid the first quarter payment last week and building is ordered now. Got the building permit wensday so am ready to go. Now t get the garage emptied out of 25 years of accumulation. LOL. Contractor will strip aluminum siding and copper wiring before taking it down.

[Mal Paso]

I'm jealous! A 40 foot wide building here would be 10 feet underground, 10 feet on stilts. LOL

Good luck with the project!

[sniper]

My basement shop is rather small, but several years ago, I replaced the old 4" fluorescent lights with LED tubes. Amazingly brighter. I had a 2-light fixture over my 2nd bench, which I initially had 60 watt CFL bulbs, which I replaced with 60 watt LEDs for somewhat better brightness. Last week, Costco had a 2-light bank of LED bulbs on sale for ~$20. I bought one and installed it "just to see". GREAT increase in brightness! If I were building a shop, I would not install anything but LED lighting. The idea of mounting the lights at about 8' for an auto shop is experience speaking! The color rating of 4-5000 Kelvin is very good for work areas, and for general husehold, for that matter!

[Ohiopatriot]

Check out Hyperion LEDs on Amazon. Priced right, no ballasts, long lasting, bright. Can get 4' or 8'. We replaced all our fluorescents 2 years ago. I was constantly replacing ballasts and bulbs. Haven't touched these. Plus instant on even in freezing weather.

[David2011]

Early in the thread I had just installed LED lights in my garage. They have completely met expectations and I’ll buy more as we expand the garage and shop.

[country gent]

Couldn't find my old thread where I posted the original start so here's the newest update. Talked to the contractor today Barring rain tomorrow the old garage starts coming down. A couple trees need to be removed and some grade work done. Once garage is down and layed out then the grading. Shouldn't be to long now. was it ever a job cleaning the old buildings out to do this after roughly 30 years of storing things.

[lightman]

Looking forward to hearing more about this and maybe seeing pictures. I kind of wish I could build another one and incorporate the things I didn't think about originally. I have wired many metal farm shops and the size and space make me jealous!

[country gent]

Im really looking forward to the dedicated shop room Never had that before. All the tooling ( wood working only then) sat against the walls and was moved out when needed. The new building will give a shop the size of the old garage and a slightly bigger garage area. Plus 2 ft more height. Where the shop room is Ill cover the rafters and insulation to provide some over head storage area also. So in reality Ill have a 20X30 shop area. a 30x40 garage area and a 20x40 overhead storage area. Way more room than I had. Wont know what to do with machinery set and ready to go plus the addition of the metal working equipment.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

this one?

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?372353-Lighting-in-a-shop&highlight=

[country gent]

That's the one I was looking for, JonB

[MaryB]

When I built new I went 24x30 foot... wish I could have gone bigger LOL fills up FAST especially with an F150 taking up space...

https://i.imgur.com/1UwfrFQ.jpg

[redneck1]

If I had the option one thing I would change in my little shop is the grinding equipment and welder would be in a separate room .
Both the bench and surface grinder make a mess of everything in the shop with any real use .
The only reason I'd include the welder with them is that welding and grinding go hand in hand .

The filth is terrible , you get tired of having it clean it off of machines
And once it's in your shop you'll live with it forever .

[Wis Tom]

When I built in 2006, I made the mistake of making the small shed the heated and cement floor one(30x36) but I should have made the bigger one, the heated one(40x52) as I need more room, but too late now.

[country gent]

Well Im going to 40X50X10 ( to bottom of trusses). The old garage was 30X23x8 so a little over double the room. Last week I turned the garage over to the contractor and its rained every day since LOL.
Im planning on welding area having a sliding partitions ( like the privacy sheet in hospitals) When welding I can pull it around to seal off area and this will shield arc from people walking in and make the ventilation much more effective do to the smaller area. I may have to watch this when using gas flux that could be pulled away.

As far as grinding equipment disc grinders and such will be done in the welding area, the pedestal grinders and surface grinder will be out in the shop area where needed for sharpening tools and use. I may put a coolant system on them. On a pedestal grinder the spray misters will go along way to knocking down dust and grit. On the surface grinder a flood of coolant saves burns and wheel loading along with keeping grit and dust down. Done right the pedestal set ups coolant can be reused. a hose into the catch container covered with fine cloth strains the grinding ash and such from it. then when needed pour back into mister. Over a day or 2 what doesn't get strained out settles to the bottom of the container. A plus to this is when you need lapping compound its in the bottom of the coolant can here.

[country gent]

Talked to the contractor tonight and He was going to get started demolishing the garage tomorrow as it seemed to have dried if enough. I no more than hung up the phone andit started to sprinkle and a light rain for about 20 mins then rain off and on all night. Just the way my luck goes.

[Winger Ed.]

When I built new I went 24x30 foot... wish I could have gone bigger LOL fills up FAST especially with an F150 taking up space...
]


Nature hates a vacuum, and seeks to fill it.

[country gent]

Well things went better today. Contractor showed up with equipment this morning. Bobcat a rough surface long reach fork truck and a escacator. Garage is down and almost all hauled away. I was told to expect the building delivery in 1 1 1/2 weeks. Should go quick now.

[country gent]

Contractor just called and tomorrow morning between 7:30 and 8:00 the new building is being delivered. Wonder if they can get the complete 40X50 X 10 building on one semi? Its moving along now.

[Winger Ed.]

Wonder if they can get the complete 30X50 X 10 building on one semi? Its moving along now.

Probably so unless they hit a weight limitation, which is doubtfull.

The covering panels should ship flat like a big stack of plywood.

The frame pieces should all lay on the trailer like a bunch of pipes would.

A big box of hardware brackets & bolts, and that's about all there is to it.

[izzyjoe]

Glad to hear you're getting new shop, i hope you get it set like you want. I hope some day to have bigger shop, man I could fill up a 100ft x 100ft fast! Of course I'd never go in the house, cause I'd be working in the shop!

[Conditor22]

Remember, If you don't post pictures, It never happened :bigsmyl2:[smilie=w:

[country gent]

Well I now have a yard full of building. Talking to them and the driver I found it interesting that there were 2 buildings on the truck this delivery. From here He went to Indiana ( Portage?) for 5 coils of tin to take back with him. This will be roll formed coated and cut into siding for more buildings' I didn't think hed get many loads going back to Wisconsin. They removed some old concrete and got site ready. going to take a bit of grade at the south end to bring it up.
He moved a building ahead of mine since that site was drier and could be worked easier. I have standing water in the lower spots right now.

[jonp]

When I built new I went 24x30 foot... wish I could have gone bigger LOL fills up FAST especially with an F150 taking up space...

https://i.imgur.com/1UwfrFQ.jpg

Why does that sound familiar, Mary :-P

Wish I had a shop. Im making do with a garage and moving tools outside when its sunny to work

[country gent]

Contractor had 2 semi loads of gravel dropped today. The site is ready to be graded up waiting for it to dry down so they can get started. The site falls away a lot past the old garage so its going to take some fill.

[Duckiller]

Please show pictures. I am seriously considering moving to a state that will issue me a CCW permit. A condition of the new house will be either a sizeable shop or room to build one. Would like to see what your shop looks like.

[country gent]

Finally, Contractor was out yesterday dropped off scaffolding the first trip then brought bobcat and if accessories on second trip. graded site up . The new building actual construction has started. Talked to him the other day and He stated e was 2 months behind do to the rain and weather already.

If we had started earlier instead of waiting for warmer weather it would have been done with few issues. I really didn't want to see them out in February in 30 degree weather working though.

[country gent]

Contractor was here today. Laid out building and here posts go. sorted posts and angered 18 holes to depth +3" installed a 3" thick concrete cookie ten tamped down level. Poles are in holes and framing starts tomorrow if its not raining. Its been a long day for me.

One thing that they did ive not seen done before is on all the posts they nailed 2x4x8" piece on each side of the post roughly 3" up from bottom. This is to keep post from floating or shifting until the ground settles back in place.

[Hossfly]

Pictures we need pictures. Please.

[country gent]

Yesterday they squared and set the poles got the most of the stringers in and started grading for the floor. You can now see the size height and big doors of the building. the stringers on the north side were attached with screws so they could remove them to set trusses. That may happen tomorrow. Rained today. They wanted to get stringers on so if there was wind with the predicted storm it didn't mess up the posts. Ordered 30 yards of fill today for floor and around building.

[country gent]

Its coming right along. Now.Today they got the last of the stringers on, headers hung over the 3 garage doors. clets on where needed and purloins made up. Hoping Monday to set trusses and purloins on. Maybe frame in the entry doors and windows. Got some other pieces done for overhang. Tomorrow weather permitting were hanging trusses.

[country gent]

Eaves vents and soffit are on, cupulas base is done and ready to set entry doors are framed. windows need to be cut in yet. Tomorrow finishing overhangs setting cupula and grading out side and floor for concrete. Possibly put the roof on. Pour concrete Friday or Monday possibly. A 40'x50' will be a big job. rebar on 24" centers in floor. Its coming along at a decent pace

[MaryB]

How thick of a floor? I went 6" to handle heavy loads...

[country gent]

WHere the old garage floor was will be 10" for the shop area. ( lathe mill grinder wood working tools) the rest of the floor will be around 4-5". Were pouring on top of the old floor which was 8". Should make a good heavy floor for the machines.

[1911sw45]

I hope the concrete done bust up over the old concrete with it being only 2”. Concrete don’t like to bond it self very well to old concrete. Especially if it has not been prepped properly. Also with as much fill you said had to be added I hope you don’t get future settling and your concrete floor busting up only being 4-5”. There is no way it’s been packed and settled.

[country gent]

Im sorry was tired from a full day "helping" contractors. Concrete will be 4"-5" on top of old. So 12" thick there. were lightly grinding it to roughen and pins to tie together.

[1911sw45]

Ok that sounds a lot better. Lol

[country gent]

Roofs on. Ridge vent and cupula tomorrow, maybe cut in window frames. Probably grade and get ready for concrete

[country gent]

Contractor is shooting for net Wednesday to pour the floor. Some grading to do yet forms and rebar. A 40X50 floor is going to take a pretty good size crew to pour, screed and finish. Better order pizza and beer for the crew that day. LOL

[country gent]

Today they finished grading and packed it down, Installed some grade pins laid plastic sheeting and rebar. Set forms at doors. Tomorrow we pour 27 yards of concrete for the floor.

[country gent]

Long day yesterday well busy day. First load showed up on a conveyor truck at 6:00. The conveyer truck was money well spent, no Irish dump trucks were needed. LOL. First truck spread his load out ( about 2/3 of floor) and scraped down excess. Second truck baked in along side and ran chute over conveyer finished back half and far edges. Conveyor truck pulled out and chutes added to second truck He emptied and third truck came in and finished the pour. this was just before 9:00. screeded and floated down it looked good. The waited a little for it to cure up and ran a 4' power trowel over it several times. It looks very good cuts are in and sealed . Floor is curing this weekend. 3 large meat lovers pizzas and breadsticks as a bonus for the crew.

[NyFirefighter357]

Keep it wet

[country gent]

2 walls sided today.

[country gent]

Now have 3 1/2 walls sided 2 windows are in. Finish front wall, trim. 1 window, and walk in doors to go. Then the 3 rollups and openers. The front s foing a little slower having to work around garage doors window and walk in door

[country gent]

Well building is pretty much done. 3 pieces of siding to go when it comes in a very little trim. Windows and entry doors are hung. Somewhere Monday to Wednesday next week the sub contractor will hang the 3 roll up doors and openers. A little grade work around the outside to go.

[Wayne Smith]

Never done this - how long do you have to wait for the floor to support your machines?

[country gent]

I believe the floor would support them now but Im giving it a couple months since it will be releasing moisture heavy for awhile. May save some rust issues

[jsizemore]

My buddy who digs and pours footers said pole barns now have to drill and put rebar thru the holes so the footer/slab pour is over the rebar to prevent uplift during high wind conditions. New code in NC.

[country gent]

I had never seen this before and asked about it when the contractor did it. On each pole they nailed a 12" length of 2x4 90* to the pole and centered. about 6" up from the bottom. He said it was to help keep poles down and seated until ground had re settled around poles.

[country gent]

Today they did the outside grading and the gravel approach driveway. Looks good and in the track chair no bumps or jars going in and out. Tomorrow the roll up doors are supposed to be installed. Thursday the missing siding is to be here

[country gent]

Soon the real work starts emptying the trailers of the stuff and putting away organized and where it can be found. Then bringing in the "new equipment" setting leveling and wiring for everything. Im debating on shelving cabinets or drawer units. This is going to be a big project just in itself

[MaryB]

I went with a 4x8 wall of hanging plastic bins for nuts and bolts and screws... can grab the containers you need and bring them to the project... plus 2 8' tall x8'w x 2'd shelves setup facing each other, one set along the wall the other 3 feet away making an aisle. Add some framing and a floor on top to stash bulky light stuff like rolls of insulation... on the back of the shelf facing the room I added plywood and pegboard to hang stuff like spare mower/snowblower belts, spare mower parts etc... and oddball tools I don't use often.

[country gent]

Today the 3 garage doors went in Went good and the doors move freely and easily. The one guy was really working set the tension on the torsion springs LOL. I get going I may make them a set of bars 3 ft long ( a foot longer) the added leverage may be a help. The chain fall openers are great for me, I roll up to them and grab front or back chain and pull door opens or closes eaily and I don't have to unfasten the seat belt or bend over in the chair. My old garage doors when I bent over and grabbed the handle pulled it pulled me out of the chair and on my face. 1 8' X 10' door and 2 10' X 10' doors. The were short 1 piece of door seal so will come back and do the 8ft door next week

[Traffer]

Knowing a bit of your skills, it is exciting to see you are getting a new place to work/play. I hope you get to make everything you have ever wanted with this new shop.

[country gent]

Well its really coming together now. Building is to be done Monday. Hopefully get the occupancy permit later next week. My offer on the shop equipment has been accepted. A very nice Nardinni 16x40 lathe digital readout and coolant. A 12x40 lathe nice clean machine Both lathes have d series chuck mounts. A 9x48 series 1 head Bridgeport that's a good clean machine has power feed and digital readout. A 6X18 surface grinder. This is a friends shop one man retirement shop. He bought the lathes new one in 80 the nardinni in 85. The Bridgeport was bought used. The Surface grinder is old but accurate and will do the job asked of it. The big plus is Im getting all the tooling with them chucks, steady rests, dividing heads, rotary tables, both lathes have aloris tool holders and 5-6 tool holders with them. 3 full sets of 5c collets round by 1/64, square and hex. The grinder has a lot of various wheels with most mounted on hubs. several 3 jaws 4 jaws and a 6 jaw chuck for the lathes along with faceplates. Several of the newer style indexers one collet one with a vee block and home made tail stock for them. The smaller lathe has a 1 3/8 spindle bore the Nardinni is 1 1/2". Also angle plates towers/blocks vises kurt Bridgeport and home made. As I said a full collection of tooling. As far as cutters I haven't been shown that yet but cutters are expendible tools. also a set of #3 taper shank drills from 1" to 2" by 1/16ths

[jsizemore]

I'd get all my equipment set and then fill in around them.

I went to a fella's house that has all kinds of equipment. Uses rolling drawer cabinets with plenty of labels. Puts what you need where and when you need it.

[country gent]

Im planning on a small hydraulic die cart for moving what I need where I need it but the trick is getting everything where you ( I) know where it is to get it when you need it. Im still working on this. Considering my wood working tools are also going in this room 2 saws a wood lathe and buffing machine, hand tools and fixtures this is a big job. Drawers and labels may work for some things shelves or cabinets for others. I need to get some chalk lines down and then see what's available.

I never pushed my tool box around the shop to much work. I grabbed what I need for the machine I was running and went to work. On most jobs a 12" crescent wrench, calipers and a mike or 2 covered it.

[country gent]

All the machines will be set before the inner walls are put up. Its so much easier to move equipment with out walls. same equipment will be set then wiring done.

[Traffer]

When you get the walls up can I put a cot in the corner and live there?
:bigsmyl2:

[country gent]

Traffer while Im sure your a Great guy, That cot is mine not sure at my age I want a male room mate LOL

[blackthorn]

Traffer while Im sure your a Great guy, That cot is mine not sure at my age I want a male room mate LOL

Does that mean that if you were younger(older) you might consider---------?

[country gent]

Not really, was being polite there:bigsmyl2:

[MrWolf]

Think you guys need to check out Farmers Only dating site. I can say best I've seen and met my current girlfriend there. Just sayin unless you guys like each other:bigsmyl2:

[lightman]

I think this thread has been :hijack:

[country gent]

Yep definitely got off track there. LOL

[country gent]

Back on track I got the name and number of a Gentleman that moves equipment on the side lots of good reviews on him from friends and others. He has a trailer that should hold everything one trip including his lift truck, Maybe tomorrow get the chalk line out and doo some lay out work

[country gent]

Today they put the last 3 pieces of siding and trim on building is done now. Called for the occupancy inspection late today.

[Wayne Smith]

Congratulations!

[lightman]

It sounds like you have a really nice shop. It came together rather smoothly too!

[MrWolf]

Still waiting on some pics:bigsmyl2:

[Mal Paso]

Does that window on the left look a little crooked to you?

[country gent]

Naw its just an optical illusion.

[Traffer]

Yup, it's the way the light hits it ...

[country gent]

Worked about 3 hours today sorting and organizing, slow going since I cant carry a lot in the chair. Got most of the first trailer done need to get a couple shelving units ordered and up now to keep moving forward. I trailer to go after this batch. Been looking at shelving units last couple days now. Then get the saws and make racks for tools and fishing poles. May hang a sheet or 2 of peg board for shovels rakes tile probes and things.

[country gent]

Ordered 2 set of shelving today steel 70" H x 60" W X 18" D. grated shelving so dust and dirt don't sit on the shelves. Has 1000lb per shelf rating when evenly distributed. Also ordered 6 4' 3200 lumen led lights for the building area. The enclosed shop will need to be other light source. Its still coming along

[Traffer]

Those pictures definitely do not do it justice.
:bigsmyl2:

[country gent]

Am hoping to have some pocs of the outside of the building up soon. A friend is going to take them

[country gent]

Got in 2 sets of shelving for in the actual building ( not the shop area / room) and 6 led lights 3100 lumens each. The shelving units are 70" H X 70" W and 18"D. shelves are rated for 1000 lbs. Son put one together yesterday for me went together quick and easy the only tool needed was the end of a hammer handle to tap the sides down in place. 5 shelves . Unit weighs 150 lbs. filled 3 shelves today. Im looking at 2 lights per bay in the building for now. building is 40' so 13' from back wall and 13' from front wall and can angle them if needed. Need to get some additional chain and screw hooks to install these yet. Got most of first trailer put away on the shelves today. with room to spare. Found a 2 lb lead hammer mould Id forgotten about. Its bigger than I normally use. But it can be a pattern for a smaller one.

[country gent]

Went out to day and rough marked on the floor where the lights will be over head. That looks good and pretty good to start. I'm thinking angle the front lights towards the back and the back lights towards the front so they cross over to negate shadows. I assembled most of the second set of shelves by myself today. all but the very top grate shelf and very bottom shelf. I just couldn't get to them from the wheel chair LOL. Was a lot slower going for me than my son but I got er done. LOL. Hopefully tomorrow the occupancy certificate and I can start finishing up.

[country gent]

Still waiting on the occupation inspection to be done. The township is having issues and the busy body next door is involved Im caught up in the middle of it. Don't know when this will be settled. Until I get the certificate Im dead in the water and cant do anything more. What a pain

[1911sw45]

That’s bs.

[country gent]

More so than you think. When I gilled out the application I submitted a detailed to scale drawing of size location spacing from property lines road and from house. The application was approved and the building permit issued to put the building up. NOW all at once its a big issue. Im just sick over this. Its looking more and more like Im going to be in court over this

[1911sw45]

Love we don’t have that here. Out in the country there is no building codes not permits or anything.

[country gent]

I am in the country. farms all around. But a bunch moved out from the city and want just what they left changing the areas.

[1911sw45]

Sorry to hear.

[David2011]

Sorry you’re having these issues. I can see a certificate of occupancy for a commercial building and MAYBE even for a house but a shop? That’s garbage, especially after they approved the building permit. Best wishes!

[country gent]

From listening to the townships meetings ( Im in a wheelchair and don't drive anymore) recordings these 2 busy bodies aren't pushing for a fine or variance now but to make me remove the building or move it. There's over 17 yards on concrete in the floor and around the posts how do you move that?

[Sig556r]

Sad state of local regs, ran by clueless people.
Hope you get this squared away.

[1911sw45]

Why did they wait until the building was finished

[country gent]

I don't know they had the application with all the information on location size and such, approved it and issued the building permit. Due to weather they had roughly 3 months between this and start of removing the old garage. Then there was 3-4 weeks between garage removed and start of building. Then 3 times the building was inspected in process. This was measuring size location road stand off and distance from house and property lines.
Whats really frustrating is the "mistake " is theirs ( oversight or what ever) but Im the one going to pay the bill for it.

[1911sw45]

So your to close the other property lines road?

[Preacher Jim]

Might be time to find the meanest lawyer you can and threaten suing commission and objectors

[1911sw45]

Exactly

[1911sw45]

And follow thru even if they back down!

[country gent]

The initial complaint was to much square footage in building compared to house a clause no one knew about. then it was location of building. Now its supposedly bigger than a 3 car garage. Im fine as far as stand offs from property lines road and house. Actually Im fine with the neighbors Ive talked to they really like it. Its the busy body next door playing boss, SHe wants to run the neighborhood.

[country gent]

As much as I didn't want to do this I just sent a e-mail to an attorney detailing the building and other issues with township. Meeting with him next Wednesday morning. I really didn't want this or the problems but now its time to get my own Junk Yard Dog ad protect myself

[MrWolf]

Once some folks get a taste of any type of power they go bonkers. My first home I wanted to put up a two car garage on the side of the house and had to go to zoning board because if setbacks. Old garage was under the house and severely sloped as a car could not park level on it. Fun in ice and snow. Board recommended I build the garage on neighbors property so I could then make a "K" turn and exit property due to road traffic. I basically started to go ballistic in the meeting when a Board member motioned me to wait. He calmly explained to the other members that their option was not realistic, etc.. They approved my plans. I think your getting an attorney is the right move. They probably know Zoning members and can be a bit more reasonable with them.

[country gent]

Mr Wolf. What makes this so disheartening is all was approved well before ground was broken and started changing just before building was finished.

[country gent]

Well got a call today that permit was issued and e-mailed still haven't received it though. Still going to talk to the attorney as I don't believe this is over

[MrWolf]

Good news and yea covering your butt by speaking to an attorney is probably a very wise move. Goid luck.

[jsizemore]

If the busybody is playing dirty, I'd do the same. Play the handicap card. Play it very loud with the local media and anybody else that will listen. Politicians should suck that up with elections coming.

AND THEN INJECT DOE URINE IN BUSYBODY'S DUCT WORK!:kidding:

[country gent]

Well, was told yesterday by one of the township commissioners a copy of permit had been e-mailed to me to get started on garage shop again. Still haven't gotten it in my e-mail. I haven't got a straight story from any of these bureaucrats. Even though Im told its been issued until I have some form of it Im scared to start again.

[Camper64]

Have you checked your Spam folder to see if it got filtered out?

[country gent]

New mail, old mail, recently deleted, spam, and recycle bin.

[Bookworm]

9 pages on a ship build, and not one picture.

Really ??

[country gent]

Finally a hurdle crossed. One of the commissioners was just here and gave me my occupancy permit. I can now get I the building and get moving again with it. 6-7 weeks on it with the games that were being played.

[lightman]

Thats certainly good news!

[mac60]

Finally a hurdle crossed. One of the commissioners was just here and gave me my occupancy permit. I can now get I the building and get moving again with it. 6-7 weeks on it with the games that were being played.

That's great news! I've been following the thread in disbelief - kinda' angry about how you've been treated. I hope the problems you've been having are behind you, and you can move forward with it.

[country gent]

Well back at it today. Hung the wiring for the lights and 6 led 3200 lumen 4' fixtures. For now on a plug until I get electrical needs figured out for sure and get electricians in. 2 in each bay front angled to back wall and back angled to front. Did wiring on floor and put up done fit in place great and was easier than running wires and making connections on the ladder. My son put it up wiring, chain, and lights in 2 hours. Used light chain across the top edge trusses then hung light chains from it. gave good side to side adjustment and height adjustment on the lights.

:ocal attorney I tlked to could take me as he has represented people on the board and it would be a conflict of interests for him. He did recommend a college in Toledo

[country gent]

Friday got a load of wood delivered for the new bench, 2 x 4s 2 x6s and 2 x8s all 8" long. Also oak dowels 3" long 3/4, 1/2, and 5/16. Glue and the needed drills. Yesterday made a set of trestles and set up bench top on them. Bench top will be 32" W X 96" L X 32" high 3 1/2" thick. Has 5 2 X 8s meshed in to make stiffening ribs and the mounts for the legs. Legs are 4 1/2 X 5 1/2 laminates with a 2 x 6 brace around roughly 12" above floor, these will be mortised in place and locked with dowels. Should be a heavy solid bench to work on. No nails or screws, all wood dowels and lock dowels with glued joints. Will give it a heavy oil finish when done. Figured it up last night and roughly 450 holes to drill. LOL Need to get drill press back now.

What can be added to the original gorilla glue to color it? I would like to add a spacer between tops joints and black glue to have a black line between boards showing. Just think it would look good.

[NyFirefighter357]

Friday got a load of wood delivered for the new bench, 2 x 4s 2 x6s and 2 x8s all 8" long. Also oak dowels 3" long 3/4, 1/2, and 5/16. Glue and the needed drills. Yesterday made a set of trestles and set up bench top on them. Bench top will be 32" W X 96" L X 32" high 3 1/2" thick. Has 5 2 X 8s meshed in to make stiffening ribs and the mounts for the legs. Legs are 4 1/2 X 5 1/2 laminates with a 2 x 6 brace around roughly 12" above floor, these will be mortised in place and locked with dowels. Should be a heavy solid bench to work on. No nails or screws, all wood dowels and lock dowels with glued joints. Will give it a heavy oil finish when done. Figured it up last night and roughly 450 holes to drill. LOL Need to get drill press back now.

What can be added to the original gorilla glue to color it? I would like to add a spacer between tops joints and black glue to have a black line between boards showing. Just think it would look good.

Powdered concrete tint

[Mal Paso]

What can be added to the original gorilla glue to color it? I would like to add a spacer between tops joints and black glue to have a black line between boards showing. Just think it would look good.

I would recommend Franklin Titebond 2. High moisture resistance, doesn't foam out of the cracks, and a much better hold over time. I laminated blocks a couple years ago with gorilla glue and they have come apart. Unimpressed!

[alamogunr]

Mal Paso is right. Back in the July/Aug 2007 issue of Fine Woodworking, an extensive glue test was performed. The PVA glues won out. I can't post a link because I don't subscribe to their back issues but I do have them on my computer. A similar test is linked below. It shows similar results and names Titebond II specifically although NOT for exterior conditions. Epoxy is the recommended glue for that.


http://tinyurl.com/y5wpkjp7

[country gent]

Ive always had good results with the gorilla glue holding but will research the others to see. As the bench top is 22 boards I need a long cure time. I haven't fully decided on the dye yet just thought the lines might be an interesting look and appeal to the eye. Did some more layout work today got the dowel pattern for the legs laminations Figured out. Laid out 1 leg and will fasten stops to it and use it for a jig for the other 11. Buddy stopped by today really like the building and layout of it. He looked or the bench top on the trestles and thought it would be plenty sturdy.

[Mal Paso]

It really takes immersion in water to soften a Tightbond II joint not just getting it wet. I use it outside on anything that gets painted. Titebond joints are usually stronger than the surrounding wood.

In polyurethane the old Vulcum calk was awesome for dimensional lumber. Great for gluing stair treads, no squeaks but lord help you if you have to remove one.

[alamogunr]

Mal, I guess we have had somewhat the same experiences. I used Vulkem caulk to install crawl space vents. Here in Tennessee we don't normally have basements. After almost 50 years my vents had deteriorated and needed replacing. Originally, they had been installed by the brick masons using regular mortar. I'm not a mason, so I bought the Vulkem and installed new vents. They have been in place for about 5 years and show no sign of failure.

Not cheap as caulk goes but overall worth the cost.

[David2011]

It really takes immersion in water to soften a Tightbond II joint not just getting it wet. I use it outside on anything that gets painted. Titebond joints are usually stronger than the surrounding wood.

In polyurethane the old Vulcum calk was awesome for dimensional lumber. Great for gluing stair treads, no squeaks but lord help you if you have to remove one.

Yep. When we had an overhead garage door installed to replace the sliding door on our shop I had to do some framing prep. Being a model airplane builder/flyer I've used lots of Titebond and TB II. The overhead door guy gave me some incorrect dimensions and I had to rip out a header that I had installed with screws and glue. I removed the screws and proceeded to destroy a yellow pine 2x8 trying to get it off of the existing structure, breaking it into several pieces with a crow bar while prying it off. Nothing to do with water resistance but it demonstrates the effectiveness of Titebond.

[country gent]

Busy day today worked on the new bench got the leg laminates cut and made 8 mortise and tenon joints for the leg braces. Lot of time with a dovetail saw and chisels LOL. But got it done. Waiting on glue, clamps, power hand planer and some other things to come now.

[15meter]

I would recommend Franklin Titebond 2. High moisture resistance, doesn't foam out of the cracks, and a much better hold over time. I laminated blocks a couple years ago with gorilla glue and they have come apart. Unimpressed!

Another fan of Titebond, I use all three depending on application plus West system epoxy. I won't have gorilla glue in the shop, hate the foaming and the stained hands. And I don't believe it is as strong or as durable as the Titebonds or the West System epoxy.

[country gent]

Modified the leg brace tenons today to a angled surface on the bottom side they were a "snug" fit and assembling them with glue would have been hard. Vut a wedge same angle so now I can glue slide brace in to flush and then set the wedge to lock it up tight. 5 1/2" x 1 1/2 long mortise. Wedge is 10" long and when hand set 1" of small end is past leg so I can glue in brace and glue in wedge drive tight and then cross dowel.
Electric hand planer and some bar clamps came today so Im ready to move on.
Finished up the legs today all the cross dowels and lock dowels are glued in.

[alamogunr]

I hope we can see a picture of the bench when you finish.

[jsizemore]

You may want to lightly score the glue mating surfaces of the 2x's. I raise my table saw blade up about 1/8" and make 4 passes on each side. Extra glue surface area and less worry about over tightening clamps.

[country gent]

Yesterday ran a "splinter" into ball of my left hand about 1 1/2" long ( felt like the whole tree), got it wrapped p wit salve on it today. But did some more work on legs and feet. Tomorrow will try out the new power planer and trim up the bottoms of the legs and attach feet to them. Worked a lot slower today and didn't wipe any boards off LOL. Geet are 3" thick X 5 1/2" wide X 6 1/2 long. Need to trim excess glue from legs and cut dowels down to match still.

[country gent]

Hand is feeling a lot better today. Got the feet glued and doweled in place yesterday. Today cleaned up excess glue ad fit tenons and wedges to mortises. Assembled legs today ( test). Leg braces were parallel, Didn't take much for the wedges to "lock" them in place. Had wedge sticking out on both sides so can be trimmed flush when glued doweled and ready. Legs were square to brace with little "adjustment" needed after wedge was set snug. tops of legs were level and good. Its looking to be a very solid stable bench. Cross braces are 9 1/2" above the floor just allowing my trac chairs trac to clear under them. Going to be a lot of sanding when its all together. May start on legs tomorrow.

[lightman]

It sounds like its coming together pretty nicely. Watch out for signs of infection from that splinter.

[country gent]

Today got all the legs cleaned up dowels cut flush and sanded down with 80 grit belt on the belt sander. WAs a chore running it from the trac chair. fitted the locking wedges a little better also. Insert brace and drive wedge in on bottom side to tighten Legs are almost dead square just setting the wedges now. Once glued and doweled will be very solid and strong joint. Brother brought the trailer over with the saws and drill presses in it today so once unloaded Ill be able to keep moving forward.

[country gent]

Would someone be willing to post a picture of the in process bench got me??? Its a jpg file and I can e-mail it to you

[lead-1]

country gent, check your private messages.

[lead-1]

country gent sent me a pic of his bench and the site will not let me upload it, I am well inside my attachment limit and I am able to upload other pics from my picture file. It is a jpg so that shouldn't be a problem.

[lead-1]

Ok, with some help from Camper64 we finally have a picture of country gent's bench as it is being built.

Here is a quote from country gent,
"This is the pic of the bench in process upside down on the trestles. Its Going to be a heavy ( 500 lbs) and solid bench when done. boards grain in the top are reversed each board to counter act warp and bowing."

[woodbutcher]

[smilie=s::shock: Ohhhhhh my That`s one beast of a build.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe,
Leo

[country gent]

A big Thank-you to Lead-1 and Camper 64 for posting that pic for me. Its appreciated.
Wood butcher its been a fun project so far will go faster now since the power saws and drill presses are back. Before it was hand saws hand drills and chisels. A lot slower going but fun to do.

I still have a few hundred 3/4" holes to drill in the tops boards for dowels and lock dowels. then to mount the legs in place. Then glue and draw together. I will use 3 dowels for alignment and threaded rods to pull together. The first board will be layed out and drilled then 1 end block and 2 blocks on top edge every board after will be set in and clamped then drilled to it. After laid up and dried clean up the open holes then insert dowels in place and drill for lock dowels. do the same with holes that have threaded rod in them last. 5 3/4" dowels will hold each leg in place. A lot of work but the finished bench will be worth it.

I may build a second set of trestles so when drilling I can go from 1 set to the other with each board making keeping them in correct order easier

[country gent]

Today worked on bench and didn't LOL. I made new stand for the miter saw that puts its table top at 35". Nothing fancy but it is useable and a better height for me in the trac chair. Also made a second set of trestles at 35" tall to work with the saw. The second set will also allow me to work from one to the other drilling and during glue up. I like these trestles better than saw horses since the legs don't stick out to catch my chair / feet. This set is all 2 x 4s with a replaceable 1x4 rail in the top. Now to get son to set the miter saw on the new stand.

[Three44s]

Most impressive!

Best regards

Three44s

[Hossfly]

I’m impressed that your still so active being in that chair. I’ve got friends that are in that condition and the ones that have your drive and still active, seem to do so much better than the ones that don’t. Happy your finally in your shop and can keep a good out look on life.

[MrWolf]

I'm impressed as all get out on what he does. Makes me look like a total invalid with my issues.

[country gent]

Its the Irish in me I'm just to stubborn to give up. Plain and simple. Actually when I stay active I feel better and sleep better. Sitting watching tv and such all day isn't for me. I may do mire thinking on "HOW" I can do a project than actually doing it too LOL.

I did buy a power hand planer to finish the bench top down since I cant push the old jack plane anymore. I'm also "adjusting" the height of some tools to make them easier for me to use and operate.

[country gent]

Well set the old drill press up and plugged it in. went buzz buzz buzz then smoke. I hate to replace this drill press as its an old all cast iron industrial model. Table and head are both on dovetails its a heavy solid machine. I rebuilt it 10 - 15 years ago and its a heavy machine. I believe its an old Cincinnati machine. But a motor and upgrade is going to cost the bigger part of a new one. Im thinking this evening of a dc motor and vfd (?) controller for it. would give variable speeds and forward reverse also.

[country gent]

For those interested here is the bill of materials for the above bench.

Bill of materials
2"x4"x8' 17 ea for top
2"X8"X8' 5 ea leg mounts stiffening ribs
2"x6"x8' 4ea legs and long cross braces.
3/4" x 36" oak dowels 20ea for pins
5/16" dowels 8-10 ea for small pins and locks.
Keep in mind modern 2x4s are 1 1/2 x 3 1/2. This will make a bench 34 1/2" wide and 8' long. bench top will be 3 1/2" thick with 5 ribs 7 1/2"

[Three44s]

How about rewinding the existing motor?

I had a 75 hp 480 v 3 ph go belly up and a regional motor shop went completely through it for 4K.

Or a good used 3 ph and a VFD.

DC motor’s of any size seem to cost plenty.

Three44s

[country gent]

I'm not sure this 3/4 hp 110 volt ac motor is worth rewinding it is old and came out of an old gas pump Im thinking from the looks of it late 50s early 60s. I just don't think its worth a lot of money rebuilding it. This motor doesn't have a capacitor start
I have a 3/4 hp on my wood lathe also I can scavenge / borrow for the time being.
Ive been looking at the Grizzly radial arm drill press but its slowest speed is 550 rpm and only 1/2 hp.

[Mal Paso]

Another vote for 3 phase and VFD. I've been waiting for my drill press motor to die. Some guys have all the luck.

[NyFirefighter357]

Well set the old drill press up and plugged it in. went buzz buzz buzz then smoke. I hate to replace this drill press as its an old all cast iron industrial model. Table and head are both on dovetails its a heavy solid machine. I rebuilt it 10 - 15 years ago and its a heavy machine. I believe its an old Cincinnati machine. But a motor and upgrade is going to cost the bigger part of a new one. Im thinking this evening of a dc motor and vfd (?) controller for it. would give variable speeds and forward reverse also.

People are using treadmill motors for this, they can usually be found for free.

https://www.google.com/search?q=treadmill+drill+press+motor&client=firefox-b-1-d&sxsrf=ACYBGNR1yn8G9nr4nNo0bvfKuKAbDjFBXw:156860466 3550&source=lnms&tbm=vid&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjr8I3es9TkAhWIY98KHQDmAMwQ_AUIEygD&biw=1280&bih=644

http://www.owwm.org/search.php?keywords=treadmill+drill

https://youtu.be/YHpue7DhT_o

[country gent]

I have considered the tread mill motors and set up Not sure what size motors they use power wise. My Trac chair uses 2 dc motors ( 1 hp each) one for each track not sure of the rpms they turn. It has plenty of power and goes pretty much anywhere thru anything. LOl

Watched the videos and didn't realize the treadmill motors were that strong 2 1/4 hp is a lot for most drill presses frames and mechanical set up.

Being a tool and die maker and working in trade Ive ran used some pretty big drill presses. Our radial arm at work was 25 hp and #5 morse taper. rpm range from 25 rpm up to 1500. Power feed on the spindle also. A good drill press is a real plus when working.

[woodbutcher]

[smilie=s: Hi Country Gent.Have you checked out the replacement motors that Grizzly has?Several types and volt and RPM ratings.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

[country gent]

Decided today to order a grizzly radial arm floor model drill press. Found out it was curb delivery, and I had to take it off the truck from the road. So canceled the order. O loked the radial arm since I could clamp a part down and move the head to each hole instead of reclamping each time.

[country gent]

Yesterday son and I pulled the 3/4 hp motor off the wood lathe and transferred it to the drill press. Same motor frames so only difference was spacing the new one out to right distance. New wiring and switch also. ( Got rotation right 1st time around). Runs very smooth and quiet switch is now located where I can reach it from chair. 16 speeds. This old drill press is a very solid and heavy machine. Table adjusts up and down on a dovetail. Drill head also adjusts up and down on dovetail. Heavy well ribbed casting for base ram and overhead also has a coolant tank cast into back of base. Now to find where the chuck key got to when the old garage was emptied out, LOL. O did drill a 1 1/8' hole yesterday in pine with no stall, rpm drop grunts or groans, not the best test but gives an idea.

[country gent]

Drilled the first 3 2 bys today. Drilled first one and fastened stops to it its now the drill jig for the rest. Drilled 2 more and with 3 3/4 oak dowel rods assembled and drew down with 5 lengths of 1/2" threaded rod washers and nuts.
Drill presses spindle travel is only around 3 1/4" so set up to slide under and get clear thru in 1 pass was close with the 3/4" long spade drill. I have a forester 3/4" with much shorter center point but its not long enough with out making an extension for it.
The new motor and set up on the drill press is working just like it should and its cutting very clean and smooth, Doesn't stall or bog down even when Im heavy handed on the quill.
After some research and such I believe this is an early Leland and Gifford machine. Probably from the 1920s or so.

[country gent]

Well drilled the first half of the bench's top boards today. 13 holes in each 8' long board. Old drill press did great Have them set on dowels and pulled together with threaded rod now to help pull some warp and twist out before gluing up. Big pile of shavings on the floor now. Extended a forester bit to get thru and its doing good.

[country gent]

5 boards left to go all the rest are drawn together with ready rod and sitting under the tension to pull the bows and twists out of them. When done tomorrow will let it set for a couple days drawn up tight, then glue up and let cure. Im also thinking of lightly dampening the wood with water once its all drawn together tight to help straighten and take set out. I still need to cut 6 boards down in the stack up to make the pockets for the legs to set in. Its getting closer and closer everyday

[country gent]

Well got even farther today. Glued up half of top. Cut the ends on the first 3 boards to form the leg pockets. came out really good. Glued the boards together on 2 dowels and used 5 pieces of ready rod to pull together. Everything seemed to fight me today. One of the dowels in the pre assembly swelled and made it a pain to get apart. I couldn't hang on to anything and the floor is a long ways down in the chair. LOL. I got half glued up and the other half apart and ready to glue so tomorrow will cut the last 3 boards to form the last leg pockets and glue together. Install the lock dowels on the dowels I can and then when glue cures install the rest of the dowels and locking dowels.

Once legs are pinned in place it will be useable, then true up the top flat rue and level. Clean up the edges and make the lower shelf.

[country gent]

Top is all glued together, leg mortises are done. Pulled together with 1/2" threaded rod top should have measured 35" wide . glued up and pulled together it measure 34 3/4". Nice and square parallel is good measuring the same across both ends and center. Top surface feels good and even, cant see it easily as its on the bottom right now. Now to install the lock dowels on the dowels in place then ream the holes glue in dowels and locks where the threaded rods are. Then set the legs in square and dowel. 4 ea 3/4" dowels in each leg along with glue in place.

[Traffer]

You are going to need an old wood burner in there and a pickle barrel so the boys have a place to hang out and shoot the breeze.

[country gent]

Along with a barrel if peanuts and nickel coke machine too. LOL I can remember the old elevator when we took grain in sitting around the pot belly stove eating peanuts and a nickel coke ( I think it was a 6 oz bottle) waiting for the weight slip to come out.

[country gent]

Fitted 1 more dowel today. Went to go over machinery at friends place. Im now owner of 2 lthes 14x30 Nardinni lathe with readout and coolant. This is a heavy duty machine. A clausing 12 X 40 lathe. Both have 3 and 4 jaws chucks with them and collets 5c round square and hex. Nardinni has a 6 jaw even. Nadini is d-4 spindle and the clausing is D-3. A bridgeport 9X48 mill with power feeds and difital x-y readouts. Kurt 8" vise full set of r-8 collets and other tooling. A small surface Grinder with an assortment of wheels and 6xas magnetic chuck, this is all hand powered no power feeds on table but a accurate nice machine. Seller threw in end mills, inserts, and things along with close to 1000 lbs ( estimated) of stock small ends and cut offs along with a few full lengths.
We talked to the local rigger and looks like Tuesday or wensday he will move it here.
Would have fitted last dowel when I got home but forgot to plugg in the chair last night and it was down to 1 bar , didn't want to be stranded so came in and will do tomorrow. Along with getting building ready for equipment and rigger.

[Traffer]

Looking forward to you getting it all ready. Then you can start making dies for me.
:bigsmyl2:

[alamogunr]

Fitted 1 more dowel today. Went to go over machinery at friends place. Im now owner of 2 lthes 14x30 Nardinni lathe with readout and coolant. This is a heavy duty machine. A clausing 12 X 40 lathe. Both have 3 and 4 jaws chucks with them and collets 5c round square and hex. Nardinni has a 6 jaw even. Nadini is d-4 spindle and the clausing is D-3. A bridgeport 9X48 mill with power feeds and difital x-y readouts. Kurt 8" vise full set of r-8 collets and other tooling. A small surface Grinder with an assortment of wheels and 6xas magnetic chuck, this is all hand powered no power feeds on table but a accurate nice machine. Seller threw in end mills, inserts, and things along with close to 1000 lbs ( estimated) of stock small ends and cut offs along with a few full lengths.
We talked to the local rigger and looks like Tuesday or wensday he will move it here.
Would have fitted last dowel when I got home but forgot to plugg in the chair last night and it was down to 1 bar , didn't want to be stranded so came in and will do tomorrow. Along with getting building ready for equipment and rigger.

I also am looking forward to seeing pictures. But more than that, I am overcome with admiration for someone more physically restricted than me, can use all that equipment skillfully. It almost makes me regret not acquiring some of those skills before I got too old.

[Traffer]

I also am looking forward to seeing pictures. But more than that, I am overcome with admiration for someone more physically restricted than me, can use all that equipment skillfully. It almost makes me regret not acquiring some of those skills before I got too old.
I don't know how old you are but I HEAR you. I am trying to learn and it is not easy. But as my wife says "it gives you something to do an makes you happy." I watched a couple of hours of this guy on youtube today and my head is almost exploding. I know enough electronics to just barely understand the concepts of what he is saying here. I told my wife "I wish I was 12 years old. There is so much you can learn on the internet now it is just amazing" My old mind just doesn't capture it the way it used to. I can enjoy it though: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FTs9GygRQ-U&t=655s

[country gent]

Well I grew up on a small farm. My grandfather and Dad were tool and die makers. My uncle and 1 cousin were die cast die makers Grandfather and uncle on moms side were machinists. Oh and when I medically retired I had a little over 35 years as a tool and die Maker. I started in the trade when I was 15 in a little 2 mn shop ( 2 old craftsman that knew their jobs). I also have done wood working as a hobby from making canes turning pen and pencil set to other things. I started when I was still full bore. I now do the same things only not always the same way. I also ask my son or son in law to change chucks or other heavy work. It cn be done I just have to think it thru more now, use more mind than back.
Wednesday my son is coming out and well mount the legs on the bench and maybe the cross braces. Lay out the floor for the 2 walls and where machines will set, this way the rigger can place them close to where they need to be. And hopefully while he is here with his lift truck he can pick the new bench up and set it on its feet and place it in place also. I also ordered 2 56" pry bars today for fine tuning the equipment's placement. Also have several 2" lengths of pipe on hand if needed. Have an electrician a friend recommended coming out to see if he will wire the building and room Wednesday.
I started this project with Dad, we were doing it together. He died a ear ago and Im going on with it. Im hoping to get the heavy machines close enough so a jib crane can be made to load chucks vises and fixtures on them. Im also planning on this new bench sitting in the center of the floor so I can work from all four sides.
In reality Im just to stubborn to give up and quit. I miss making things and fixing them. I enjoy the craftsmanship and the work. It keeps me from sitting in front of the TV and may help me regain some mobility.

[MrWolf]

I have been in awe of what he can do and has done. Been working on my 30x32 pole barn for awhile now and still not done with framing out the interior yet.
Ron

[Smoke4320]

Pics I say pics :)

[country gent]

Son and I got a lot done today. He came over and we glued and aligned the first 2 legs ion the top[s mortises. Went to bank and lawn mower shop for some parts along with Harbor freight. Got a 3lb dead blow mallet along with a flush cut saw. Looked at a die cart. Came home and unclamped the first 2 legs and glued in the second 2. cleaned up and rearranged things getting ready for the rigger. We then doweled legs in place. and glued cross braces and doweled them both long and short. Fitted last 4 long dowels in place thru the legs and top. Cut all the dowels flush with members. Bench is pretty much done now until we get it on its feet and can work the top down flat. Everything looks good as to level and square. He took a ic but it hasn't came thru yet.

[lead-1]

Here is the latest picture of country gent's workbench, with Camper 64's help.

[country gent]

Thank- You both again Lead-1 and Camper 64.
Everything is doweled and glued in and together. Now to Smooth ends to surfaces with the power hand planer and and finish out. Bench top is 35"wide X 8' X 3 1/2" thick with stiffening rails 1 1/2" X 7 1/2 X 8' Legs are 4 1/2 X 5 1/2 long there is a stop block support inside each leg that bears on the bottom of the top for solid support. This block is 1 1/2" X 4 1/2 X 5 1/2" glued and doled to the legs braces are 2 X 5 1/2 X 8' short end braces are 1/ 1/2 X 3 1/2 X 20 No metal in this bench all doweled glued joints. Will start planning the ends down tomorrow evening up the ends and finishing. The long braces are in mortises with the bottom cut at 5* a wedge was then fitted. Today when assembling the braces were glued and slid in place then the wedges glued and drove in tight locking the braces in place last the braces were doweled with 5 1/2" dowels.

nd Again a big Thank-you to Lead-1 and Camper 65

[country gent]

My friend who is brokering the deal on the equipment and related called today. The riggers opened up and Tuesday we will be moving equipment from The owners garage into mine. Hopefully only 1 trip. Probably be a long day for me

[country gent]

Today did some light sanding with 80 grit on the finish sander and gave the legs and ends and sides the first coat of boiled linseed oil, just brushed it on. cut and fitted a support board in the center of the long braces for the shelf. A little more tinkering and the first coat had soaked in so gave it a second to soak in over night. Tomorrow will lightly sand with 180 grit and brush another coat of the oil. Ordered a versa vice to mount on it. Got the burke pry bars yesterday in case we need them moving the equipment Tuesday.

[Traffer]

Today did some light sanding with 80 grit on the finish sander and gave the legs and ends and sides the first coat of boiled linseed oil, just brushed it on. cut and fitted a support board in the center of the long braces for the shelf. A little more tinkering and the first coat had soaked in so gave it a second to soak in over night. Tomorrow will lightly sand with 180 grit and brush another coat of the oil. Ordered a versa vice to mount on it. Got the burke pry bars yesterday in case we need them moving the equipment Tuesday.

Good pry bars are great tools. When I was young we figured we could move anything with the big ones. Wish I could still handle one.

[country gent]

Im getting lazy in my old age, these are the "burke" style bars with square tubing handles. Only weight 19lbs or so and 56" length. Today I cut a bunch of 2 x 4 x 4 blocks so we can set the equipment in rough place and set up on these allowing easier lifting and sliding

[MrWolf]

Wayne your inbox is full.
Ron

[country gent]

I cleaned it up again, sorry

[country gent]

Didn't do much today with the bench cleaned up some glue and dowels in the shelf support. Put a 120 grit pad in the finish sander and wood was still pretty wet from last coat yesterday so will wait till tomorrow.

[lightman]

[QUOTE=country gent;4736800 In reality Im just to stubborn to give up and quit. I miss making things and fixing them. I enjoy the craftsmanship and the work. It keeps me from sitting in front of the TV [/QUOTE]

I certainly admire your attitude. You have been an inspiration to me, although I’m hard headed too! That sounds like a really nice shop.

[woodbutcher]

:grin: Looking good Sir.Love that bench.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

[country gent]

Today sanded down the legs cross braces front and back side and ends with 120 grit on the finishing sander and gave it a light coat of boiled linseed oil. last ight my son gave the ribs and bottom of top a heavy coat of oil for me and got all the places I couldn't reach from the chair. Today these areas had an oily feel still but now residue on fingers when rubbed.

Decided I didn't want the ribs showing from the ends so cut 2 facer boards to glue dowel and on. angled the end cuts to run from the 2 x 4 face boards to the first 2 x 8 rib/leg. Now to figure hole spacing and drill holes then mount. May wait to mount them until after top is finished flat and true.

Am still thinking about making a lever vise to go on one leg just for grins and giggles, would be a neat rendition to history, but just not sure Id even use it and afraid it might be in the way most of the time. Making it wouldn't be that bad or hard. would require a couple 2 x 6s a piece of 3/4" threaded rod and a piece of round stock for the nut, big dowel 1 1/2-1 3/4" dia for the lower pivot and a couple pieces of 1 x 4 for jaws. Thus would run the length of a leg from just above foot to even with top of bench, and works similar to a strap clamp. Would be a nice no mar vise but also not a super strong vise. Would take a little mortise work to cut the spot thru for the threaded rod and cutting thru 5 1/2" with a chisel wont be a lot of fun. A plus to this vise would be that with a taller front jaw I could clamp long work up to 96" across the top of the bench if needed. Ive seen several of these old vises ( most were home made ).

Im also thinking of inserts in the top for the versa vice instead of bolting it thru. Steel round stock drilled and tapped then epoxied into the top flush. The last ive considered is a grid of holes drilled in the top for a set of cam type clamps, Ive pretty much decided if I do this it will be in a separate board, I don't want to have the holes in the bench top always there catching chips, filings, and crud. A 2 x 12 or glue up of boards with the grid drilled in it can be clamped down and used as easily. and wont hold the crud. this type clamp uses pins and a G shaped wheel on pin drilled 1/2" of center toward the top of G. set parts in against pins and the eccentric G clamps tapped tight clamp and hold. Another plus to the separate board is I can drill its grid in the drill press not by hand. A lot of ideas and the bench isn't completely done

[country gent]

Today I cleaned up floor space getting ready for the movers tomorrow. Also something looked out of place on the bench to me. I cut 2 facer boards for the ends angled from bottom of outside 2 X 4 up to edge corner of 2X 8 leg mount rib and full width of bench top. No the ends of the top and ribs don't show just a nice board with the dowels holding it on. Will glue and dowel in place Wednesday. These really "cleaned up" the looks of the bench. Will also add to help keep tops joints from separating.

[country gent]

Got to shop at 9:00 and started loading things rigger showed up slightly after. Loaded machines and a lot of stock some full bars and a lot of cut ends ( these are even better). Got a 14X40 nardinni lathe with readout, steady and follower rests, 3 chucks, several albrieht drill chucks 5/8 3/4 for it Machine has 2" spindle bore. 40- 2500 rpm, coolant, a couple face plates, 2 carriage stops. Along with some other things. a clausing lathe 12 X 40. albrieht drill chucks 2 chucks, drawbar closer collets 5c collets round x 64ths, square and hex. steady and follower rests, 1 1/8" spindle bore. A set of #3 mires taper drills 3/4 - 2". Bridgeport mill 9x48 with readout kurt vise almost 2 full sets of R8 collets, 2 boring heads, Several slitting saw arbor's a table vise, and other assorted tooling. Surface grinder with 20 wheels several on hub mounts, a 6X12 permanent browne and sharp magnetic chuck. and a couple wheel dressers. A lot of other tooling and misc. Still have stock to pick up and possibly a 12 X 18 cast iron surface plate. Had everything here by 11:40 and rough placed unloaded by 2:00. Rigger charged $800.00 and a couple Pizzas. Im tired tonight.

[alamogunr]

Got to shop at 9:00 and started loading things rigger showed up slightly after. Loaded machines and a lot of stock some full bars and a lot of cut ends ( these are even better). Got a 14X40 nardinni lathe with readout, steady and follower rests, 3 chucks, several albrieht drill chucks 5/8 3/4 for it Machine has 2" spindle bore. 40- 2500 rpm, coolant, a couple face plates, 2 carriage stops. Along with some other things. a clausing lathe 12 X 40. albrieht drill chucks 2 chucks, drawbar closer collets 5c collets round x 64ths, square and hex. steady and follower rests, 1 1/8" spindle bore. A set of #3 mires taper drills 3/4 - 2". Bridgeport mill 9x48 with readout kurt vise almost 2 full sets of R8 collets, 2 boring heads, Several slitting saw arbor's a table vise, and other assorted tooling. Surface grinder with 20 wheels several on hub mounts, a 6X12 permanent browne and sharp magnetic chuck. and a couple wheel dressers. A lot of other tooling and misc. Still have stock to pick up and possibly a 12 X 18 cast iron surface plate. Had everything here by 11:40 and rough placed unloaded by 2:00. Rigger charged $800.00 and a couple Pizzas. Im tired tonight.


I would have been dead!

[Wayne Smith]

Yeah, I'll bet you are. How long will it take you to set everything up to be ready to use now that it's there?

[country gent]

It will be a while. sort thru all the tooling and small stuff to get organized. Have to get rooms walls up inside the building and then wired. 2 machines are 220 3 phase and I got the slave motor converter for them. others 2 are sso volt 1 phase. So with winter coming on it may be spring before things get going now. The games played by the neighbor and township over the building cost me 9 weeks time....

I hve a bunch od material ( stock) in 10 ft lengths and cut ends I have to find a way to store there some pretty big here 1 1/2, 2 2 1/2 and 3" round stock ( pre hard 4140)I need a stock rack with shelves. One piece of 6" X 6" X 10" square 4140 prehard big chunk right there. Several lengths of hex stock in various sizes.

[country gent]

Ordered 2 set of shelving last light 12 X 48" X 86" I plan to assemble in "half" units with 3 shelves each for tooling. This way you arnt reaching in for heavy items for chucks vises or other Items. smaller lighter can go lower in the shelves easily. Im up to 5 albrieght chucks now from 1/4" to 3/4". A really nice small set of boring bars. 6 insert mills in various sizes. at least 2 sets of r-8 collets with some extras and 2 boring heads.

Started planning the top on the bench down today. but decided to wait till all the tooling is sorted cleaned up and stored. This way all the dirt and stains will be removed when I plane it down.. The versa vice came today too. It looks good sitting on the bench

[country gent]

Started working on a stand or pedestal grinder and today got the top glued up and mounted. Top is 17" wide and 21" long. 35" tall tight now. May add some feet to up it a couple more inches. The main post is an I beam type upright, a 2 x 56 sandwiched between 2 2 x 4s. feet are 2 x 4s at a 10* vee 15" wide. It sits very solid on the floor. I should be able to start sanding and finishing it tomorrow.

[country gent]

Finished the grinder stand the other day and its good to go. Bench is now full of machine tooling being sorted and gotten ready. Still waiting on the shelving to be delivered from lowes. Mounted the versa vice on the bench. This became a bigger job than expected. With the 2 holes at the front ( this puts the back jaw ahead of the front of the bench by around 1/2" or so) the 3rd hole caught the heavy leg joint / rib and leg joint. I ended up cutting a mortise in it at the bottom of the top down 3/4" for the nut and washer to set in and make the bolt. I drilled 2 3/4" holes to depth then removed center with a 1" wood chisel. This worked well. O ended up gluing the nut in a open end wrench and the washer on top with a couple drops if super glue, this alloed me to position them with the wrench in the mortise. Today made a set of soft jaws for the vise from some soft pine. Vise is ready to be used now.

I really need the shelving to keep moving on. Lowes has given a date of Nov 9 for delivery. I also picked up a 1000lb harbor freight die cart to use moving things around. THis I need to modify a little since I have a hard time with the foot operated pump, Ill bend up and install a hand lever to raise the table. But for moving lathe chucks mill and drill press vises and other heavy tooling parts this will be a big help. I also want to glue the rubber mat down with contact cement to help hold it in place.

Happiness is a full work bench LOL

[country gent]

Well today we moved the bench out from the wall into an open area. sanded facers and front and back boards faces. With 80 grit first with belt sander ( this brought dowels ends down to a smooth finish) the a 1/4 sheet finish sander. Also 80 grit. Gave a coat of linseed oil, Tomorrow will sand down with finish sander and 120 grit and another coat of oil. Bench is looking good. Son moved it fairly easy listening to dad. Pocked it up with a pinch bar onto 2 2X4 blocks under each foot. This raised it up to where the lowered die cart would slide under and it was used to lift the bench. Then rolled out where we could work on it.

We also put the belt guard back on the surface grinder, And rotated to head on the Bridgeport back upright. Sorted thu some more of the tooling today. I have to make a cover for the wheel guard on the surface grinder.

[country gent]

Its getting colder now and I just don't do as well in the cold as I used to. Went out yesterday to tinker around and only made an hour or so before I had to come in. Shelving came yesterday ( finally). Last night I ordered a Match diesel fueled heater 215000 btu heater ( salamander style) to take the edge off the cold. LOL. Its rated for 5300 square feet. Its delivery date is Wednesday. Now to get the shelving assembled in to 3 shelf half units and things organized then frame the inside 2 walls up. Im getting close to wiring up everything.

[Wis Tom]

You better get that heater ready, as soon as it arrives, as i think we will be sending some pretty cold weather your way, by next weekend. LOL. Looking good, shop wise.

[country gent]

Its supposed to be here wensday. need to get some kerosene or diesel for it still.

[jsizemore]

Yep, one thing leads to another, leads to another. Figure the priorities and do them one at a time till you can't do no more and move on to the next. Sounds like my normal day. I get paid for it though.

[country gent]

My pay here will be the shop Ive always wanted when its done. Its getting closer and closer

[country gent]

Son and I went Wednesday morning and got the rest of the stock, His little Sonoma pick up hit the stops when he fot in to move load forward and stack it better LOL. I also asked the SIL of the friend about the cover guard for the grinding wheel on the surface grinder, drew him a rough sketch of it. He went over to the other building and he found it so I don't have to make one now. Just install it.

[NyFirefighter357]

Its getting colder now and I just don't do as well in the cold as I used to. Went out yesterday to tinker around and only made an hour or so before I had to come in. Shelving came yesterday ( finally). Last night I ordered a Match diesel fueled heater 215000 btu heater ( salamander style) to take the edge off the cold. LOL. Its rated for 5300 square feet. Its delivery date is Wednesday. Now to get the shelving assembled in to 3 shelf half units and things organized then frame the inside 2 walls up. Im getting close to wiring up everything.
Don't run diesel in that heater, you may never get the stink to go away. Clear kero would be the best.

[country gent]

Today we assembled the heater when it came and poured 10 gallons of kerosene in it. Fired right up opened 8' door 10" or so for ventilation and the heater brought the building up to 60* pretty quickly. Most of the building was warmer since its thermostat is in the back part of the heater and heat is pushed out in front of it. Did very good job on the first run. Then we assembled the shelving into 4 3 shelf units 42" tall. This gave 3 shelves 14" apart and the lowest 12" or so off the floor. A lot of storage room now. Moved the surface grinder to a better spot and made room for the work bench along the one wall, between the windows.

[country gent]

Getting ready to frame the 2 inner walls and ceiling in. long wall is 30' I hoping to do this in 2 sections one 20' and a 10' "removeable" section. The short front wall is 16 ft with a sliding pocket door in it Roughly 10' tall. Im trying to figure how many anchors to the floor will be needed.

Im thinking the removeable section may make moving machines in or out easier. a couple panels and un bolt it slide out and a 10X10 opening to work with. This will be easier to do while framing and building right off than at a later date. The pocket door is 8' wide and 10' tall but will be limited by a 10' walkway and the floor runners for the door.

Im just not sure how many anchors for the long wall and short wall each.