30 cal Checkmaker Dies... Setup, Use, Results...!

[PatMarlin]

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This thread will serve as instructions for using our 30 cal Checkmaker dies set, and show pictures of how really easy it is to use. I'm also including below a few operating tips, and some favorable shooting results.

I will post updates and new ideas here as well when they come up...


Order info here:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...696#post413696

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...637#post552637

www.Patmarlins.com




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[PatMarlin]

Cutting Copper Strips:

A paper cutter is really needed for consistent cut disks, and quality uniform checks. I've been told Harbor Freight's version works well. If you are buying copper from me, it will come in sheets that are 8"x11" and 3 of those will make 1000 gas checks. Cutting the strips on the 8" long side will most likely work the best.

Strips need to be 1/2" wide. Here I made a measure gage by marking a line on cardboard, that will give me a quick guide to line up my 1/2" copper cut. I'm sure folks will come up with creative ways to do this, but this is easy and fast.


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[PatMarlin]

Dies as they come...

This left pic shows the die set as we will ship them with a ram ejector arm. The ram ejector arm shown is for a LEE classic cast. Your ram ejector arm will be for your model press.

Next pic shows the die parts disassembled.


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[PatMarlin]

Cutting Disks:

Slide the male die, in the lower female die as shown to make the male cutting tool. Only medium snug pressure us needed on the set screws. No need to crank down on them. Slide the male cutting tool in the shell holder.


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[PatMarlin]

Thread the upper 7/8-14 female disk cutting housing in your press with enough threads on top to get a nut on. I thread it in from the bottom.

Before you tighten the nut, raise the male die up into the female housing and check for alignment, then tighten the nut. **make sure the housing set screw is backed out of the way** The dies work without the nut even, so just snug tight is fine.


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[PatMarlin]

Check that your copper strip slides through easily from end to end, then insert your strip, and cut your disks. I love the LEE Classic Cast because there is ample headroom, and it's easy to adjust your arm where the leverage is comfortable. Level horizontal is about where I like the arm.


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[PatMarlin]

When cutting disks- if the copper does not feed through easily, and is too wide at one point, trim it with scissors.

Also when cutting disks, if the previous hole bends the copper and hangs up some, send the ram back up and "kiss" the hole edge. Kissing it flattens out any problem bend, and makes it easy to slide for the next cut. This kissing, or tapping of the strip really works well.


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[PatMarlin]

Forming The Checks:

Insert the male die into the female 7/8-14 housing as shown, and tighten the set screw snug.


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[PatMarlin]

Set the ejector pin in the lower female forming die, and set the ram ejector arm in the ram's primer slot. Install the female forming die in the shell holder. **make sure the lower female forming die set screw is backed out of the way**

Install the 7/8-14 female housing in the press as shown, and snug the nut. Bring the ram up and check for alignment.


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[PatMarlin]

Pics show Lower female forming die with ejector pin, and ram ejector arm in press.

The ejector pin's head is also the base that the check is formed against, providing a solid flat surface in the forming die.

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[PatMarlin]

Drop a disk into the forming die. **The best way is to just drop it in** Don't try to set it in there. If it doesn't fall dead center with the drop (most of the time it does), bring the ram up and just "kiss" the disk. 99 times out of 100, it will bump it in it's seat.
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[PatMarlin]

With quick glance you will see the disk dead center in the forming hole, then send the ram up and form your check. As you bring the ram down, the ejector pin brings the newly formed check up out of the die, so you can remove it.


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[PatMarlin]

It may take a little effort getting your moves together and getting used to the process, but when you do it goes very smooth.


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[PatMarlin]

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The result is nicely formed concentric gas checks with a flat base.

Please do NOT hesitate to let me know if you have any problems whatsoever. I'm here to help.


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[PatMarlin]

My 70's vintage Ruger #1 in 300 win mag is a copper tack driver, BUT I have never been able to get it to shoot cast well. Previous attempts I used slower burning powders, and even with the lowest pressure loads I still got leading and poor performance.

So today I tried our 30 cal Checkmaker made gas checks plus the Lyman's Cast Bullet Handbook and their light fast powder loads with cavernous empty cartridge space and guess what? ...I got it to shoot!


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[PatMarlin]

Shown is a 311407 LEE group buy mold- ACWW, and sized to .310 with Bullshop Dan's speed green. The gas check was press fit, and sized on solid.


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[PatMarlin]

I loaded up the belted monsters with a Green Dot, and a mild LEE factory crimp.


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[PatMarlin]

Set up this first target at 50 and I bout's fell out of my chair when my 5 shot group was done and touched just like copper does out of the old Number 1, with .502 inches center to center as the widest dimension.


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[PatMarlin]

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I was so surprised- I guess when I went for round (2) I got a little rattled. I adjusted my scope to bring it center and 1" high- then pulled the first shot low. Damn!

The rest of the group placed .965 center to center at the widest dimension and that was all I had loaded- 10 rounds.

Still I'm very pleased at finally getting lead to show a respectable group on paper with my 300 Winny, and I'm very happy with our Checkmaker 30 cal dies...

In my opinion they create a fine gas check and perform as well as expensive factory gas checks!


The end for now ...


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[dromia]

Looks a fine piece of work Pat, when do we get them?