Just got my sample bags of powder in the mail yesterday. I need to pick up the lacquer thinner this afternoon.
Couple of questions though.
Is there a known brand of thinner that works better than another?
I've read to use either a 3:1 or 4:1 ratio but how are we doing this? It seems one person had already melted a Lee dipper. Can I just use a kitchen spoon that won't be used in the kitchen ever again? I would assume that would work if I level off the powder.
And I am assuming it is 3/4 thinner to 1 powder, correct?
Repeat of post 1185. See link for info
Dolomite Supafly wrote over at .300 Blackout forum "Lacquer Thinner not Acetone." He is using Powder By the Pound. He stated that:
"The Harbor Freight powder seems to be a little more finicky than the Powder By The Pound powder. They also sell 2 ounce bags of it for like $3 to try out and 2 ounces goes quite a ways. I bought the 400 degree polyester TGIC powder. There may be better powders out there but I am happy with the results.
Knowing what I know now I would not buy HF powder. It can be made to work but it is less forgiving."
http://www.300blktalk.com/forum/view...?f=141&t=84219
Last edited by jmort; 07-19-2013 at 12:05 PM.
OK, push the 9mm powder coated bullet through my Lee sizer without lube, some came out alright but some get scratched up. Is there something I'm doing wrong? I'm using the red powder coat from harbor freight. Should I get a different brand?
Not really, on the contrary,it is often used as a dry lubricant...
http://www.eurotalc.eu/functionsapplication.html
"Should I get a different brand?"
Yes, Powder By the Pound. Look at post #1203
My jig to hold the bullets. 9 more to go . i'll be making a tray that will stand 5 or 10 of these when ready for the oven. I'll post later of my plastic 55 gal drum spray booth set-up. These were rejected casts by the way,use for mocking up only. Finger tight only and could hang on it's side if I wanted to. powder gun from HF still in transit. Got some black from PowderByThePound. That's the best I could think of to get the least contact on the bullet during spraying and curing. Foil or masking tape to cover the bolts.
But seriously, I have thrown talcum powder across a tablesaw's top to get wood to slide across easier. I have also sprinkled talcum powder on wood floors to eliminated squeaks when the planks rub together.
I think somebody in another thread said he was using olive oil to lube up the boolits before sizing them.
3 things come to mind on the coat coming off..
bullets are not clean (handling them with bare hands, getting your oil on them before spraying)
not getting a good cure.. I heat my bullets 10 minutes at 300 degrees spray and cure another 10 at 300 then wait 2 days to size.. YMMV
least likely....mold is not casting Round Bullets
I have done at least 2000 boolits with red and black HF Powder some very heavy coated .. I see more issues with not enough coating verses too much coating
sizing many from 459 down to 452 and almost none get any coating removed.. 314 thru a 311 sizer are nearly like butter
Pc'ing has opened a whole new world to me for boolits..
PS HF Powder is far from the best powder out there but works quite well in the spraying app....Red or Black .. the yellow is not so good for me ...
Last edited by Smoke4320; 07-19-2013 at 09:05 AM.
[SIZE=4][B]Selling Hi Quality Powdercoating Powder
I carry a Nuke50 because cleaning up the mess is Silly !!
http://www.bing.com/search?q=nuke50&...7ADE&FORM=QBLH
I am not crazy my mom had me tested
Theres a fine line between genius and crazy .. I'm that line
and depending on the day I might just step over that line !!!
I'll find out when I'll have a chance to shoot them (which won't happen for a while), but I don't expect any complications. The amount left of the bullet is next to nothing and additionally I'll gas check them also. Perhaps other people that use the piglet method should give this a try as well, I think you'll really like the end result...
Gas checked and sized, talc powder process on the right...
That is pretty slick, I bet you'll get some nicely coated pils...I went away from using a PC gun because the process it's too laborious, given all the set up and cleaning required. Plus no matter how you do it, you still waste some powder. The piglet method seems so much easier and efficient, you won't get perfectly coated bullets, but that's OK for me, I chose functionality over cosmetics....
I used both, acetone and lacquer thinner, I don't really see any significant difference...
Make sure your push thru is clean. I had some scrape off due to lead in the die. I don't use any lube at all for sizing PC or H-T coated. Talc is not abrasive at all. I don't clean before coating, nothing special at all. I cast, put em in a plastic jug, coat & size later. Load when I need some more.Talc is on top of PC which has hardened. The cooking cross links the polymer, not like the sprayed which has to melt and flow to cover.They did not stick to each other or to the hardware cloth after removing them from the oven
Whatever!
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |