I found my dad's K-Bar and I would like to restore it. It is still in great shape. It has a little surace rust, but no pitting. The leather is in good shape but is dried out a little.
How would you recommend I restore this knife?
Thanks,
I found my dad's K-Bar and I would like to restore it. It is still in great shape. It has a little surace rust, but no pitting. The leather is in good shape but is dried out a little.
How would you recommend I restore this knife?
Thanks,
Crabo
Do not argue with idiots. They will drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.
neats feet oil for the leather just keep working in over a couple days. For the steel I'd try
fine steel wool with gun oil. FB
Try Flitz for the metal. It does a great job. I've used knife polish, too, but it just seems to be about the same as Flitz.
Neats foot oil or pure lanolin. I get my lanolin at Wal-mart in the new / nursing mother's section. It's marketed as "Nipple Cream". They all have it as do pharmacies, etc. Best stuff for leather and does an extrodinary job rehabing leather in trouble.
725 - Thanks for the tip on "Nipple Cream". I think one of the things that I like most about this forum is the ability of its member to repurpose just about anything into casting and reloading.
Well, I gotta say I never spend any time in that section of the store, never in the
world woulda run across nipple cream. . . . . . . I'll keep it in mind for leather softening,
now that I know about it.
Bill
If it was easy, anybody could do it.
Nipple Cream same same Lanolin ??? I learn something everyday and I also never would have thought to go into that part of a store!!
Slow Elk 45/70
Praise the Lord & Pass the Ammo
A 'creamed' nipple is the nicest applicator for transfering lanolin to chapped lips...which is a great cure for chapped lips if you don't have any calf manure.
Retired...TWICE. Now just raisin' cows and livin' on borrowed time.
Montana Charlie I aint gonna ask as I already know about that calf manure on chapped lips.
If a man has nothing greater to believe in than himself, he is a very lonely man.
Simple gun oil will work on the leather. I have owned a K-Bar for many, many years. I take it out every few months and wipe the blade and leather just with gun oil and it looks as new. Since your leather is somewhat dried I would apply a good coat and let it set before wiping off. Then reapply a little everyday for a few days until it comes back to life. What finish does the blade have? I believe some were Parkerized and some were blued. You don't want to remove the finish with any cleaning product if you can help it. A little Brasso lightly rubbed should remove any light surface rust without harming the finish. Of course if the rust is to bad you can always sand the blade to remove all finish and blue it.
How old is the knife? You may not want to do anything at all to it depending on age. If I had a WWII vintage K-Bar I don't think I would touch it.
If a man has nothing greater to believe in than himself, he is a very lonely man.
If the rust is just on the surface, try a rag with a little brake fluid. It has worked for me in the past.
Ratt
You may want to avoid putting petroleum products on leather, they will cause it to rot.
Lanolin is very good for leather.
I have had my best luck on leather with MINK OIL dressing. Makes good sizing lube too.
May depend on its basic condition and what you want to achieve. I guess it would be a Mark 2? If it were mine I'd do minimal restoration.... more like preservation.
For the leather I'd take some alcohol and a toothbrush and clean the leather. Then a light coat of lanolin or neatsfoot. Once that soaks in and left for a couple days then for a final touch, if desired, take some JPW or Kiwi shoe polish and apply with a brush to the leather. Let sit for awhile then brush/buff for a nice finish.
For the blade and pommel lightly oil with gun/machine oil and work with some 0000 steel wool. Then light coat of gun/machine oil on the metal trying to avoid the leather.
Last edited by 405; 06-08-2009 at 05:16 PM.
I don't think sooooo! Oils like Rem oil is a petroleum right? Have been using such on the leather of my K-Bar, leather slings and the furniture of all of my weapons for years with nary a problem. How long would it take them to rot if using a petroleum based oil because I have used them for over 20yrs?
If a man has nothing greater to believe in than himself, he is a very lonely man.
Restore the leather grip with a little oil, of whatever choice you desire. I would not touch the blade until I checked a few sites concerning the value of an untouched blade. Granted it may not in any way matter to you (as far as monetary value) and if it does not, do what you wish to restore it. Sometimes sentimental value and a keeper as a family heirloom is worth much more than monetary value.
If it was mine, I would oil it and keep it as is.
If a man has nothing greater to believe in than himself, he is a very lonely man.
Anyone know of a sorce for parts????
I have a bayonet that is missing the end cap(?).
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |