Looking at videos on powder coating bullets.
And thought ,,why not ask those who actually do it.
What powder do you use, and where is best place to get it?
Looking at videos on powder coating bullets.
And thought ,,why not ask those who actually do it.
What powder do you use, and where is best place to get it?
I use Eastwood.
NRA Benefactor Member NRA Golden Eagle
https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...owder-For-sale
Smoke's powder coat works very well and he's a member here. Chick the link above.
I use Smoke's clear
Hick: Iron sights!
I use Smokes. Have most of his colors.
Steve,
Life Member NRA
Colorado Rifle Club member
Rocky Mtn Gun Owners member
NAGR member
Thanks for the info guys!
Why even ask, just use Smoke's stuff. I like the clear so my bullets look like bullets rather than lipstick
Yup Smokes is one of "us". Start there!
https://youtu.be/vzSMkpf5SCY
NRA Life member • REMEMBER, FREEDOM IS NOT FREE its being paid for in BLOOD.
Come visit my RUMBLE & uTube page's !!
https://www.RUMBLE.com/user/Cwlongshot
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Smokes for me too. Everybody has their favorite color or lack of it, but it doesn't matter because it has been a game changer in some instances. It makes cast boolits slide up feed ramps in auto pistols where they were "grabbing" and causing jams.Attachment 315044
IT AINT what ya shoot--its how ya shoot it. NONE of us are as smart as ALL of us!
Make it easy on yourself and do what I did to get started. Get a smokes sample pack, his BBs and follow his easy instructions. You will hammer out perfect bullets on your first shot.
I started with Smokes Clear.
Very user friendly !!!
Smokes clear for a new user. He is a member here. Use to be $22 shipped for a pound and some air soft BBs. It goes on easiest, most even, and smoothest out of everything I've tried.wouldnt recommend anything else. It also looks traditional. His traffic blue is the easiest color to get an even coat with as well. Every other color is humidity sensitive for me.
These are my notes on coating bullets do not get stuck on just one method , Lately I like spray enamel paint baked on.
I have been using paint starting with powder coat for sometime now these are my notes on bullet coating so far i really like the process.
First method was to wet the powder with acetone and shake and roll bullets in it it until it stuck as solvent evaporated.
Next i used the electrostatic sprayer.
Last i used spray paint Kylon in my case.
All bullets should be degreased no matter how you do the coating some like dry tumbling i have not tried that.
When you bake a batch ALWAYS smash one bullet to make sure the coating does not flake off if it does bake longer and maybe hotter.
You will see a difference in the paint when it is "Cured" it becomes a thin plastic jacket around the bullet.
Some people have had great luck with liquid enamel paint they degreased the bullets and add them to a container with a bit of paint and roll and shake until coated.
NEVER bake in a oven food will be cooked in .
I like spray paint as i can paint them and then handle them , i usually use three coats while they stand on there bases.
Wet application requires handling and can be messy while electrostatic spraying needs to be done on the pan or jig you are baking them in as the powder will fall off if touched.
Do not let bullets touch while baking they will stick together.
Of the methods i use the three coats of spray paint is the thinnest and works best on rifle bullets with long noses. The other two methods are thick enough to engage the rifling of my 30-30 making chambering hard. I shoot the lee 309170 cast soft at 178 grains to an average speed of 2040 fps with good results . I have also shot cast and swaged .38 bullets in the 1700 fps range fromA a ten inch contender with good results. Most of my loads are common 38& 45 acp velocities no loads that have been properly "CURED" have leaded my bores.
I have also started loading higher levels for the 45-70 shooting powder painted or powder coated bullets to of 405 grains (417 as cast) at 1900 f/s and the Lee 330 grain mold cast soft (354 grains as cast) @ 2168 f/s both these loads shoot under 2" at 100 yards
IF You use the powder coat paint wet, I use acetone but other solvents that evaporate will work . I put about a teaspoon of powder in a can or jar add a bit of acetone to make the paint wet (runny wet) then wash the boolits in acetone or alcohol dump the liquid and add them to the can/jar with paint shake and roll until they are coated then remove the lid and roll until the paint sticks well. At that point i dump them out stand them on a baking tray on non stick aluminum foil or wax paper and bake them near or at 400 degrees for an hour . They are sized after they cool. Do not bake in oven that will be used for food again the foil or wax paper is used to keep paint from tray if temperatures go above 400 wax paper can darken and get brittle. I now use a silicone baking sheet some paint does stick to it but it works well for me the bullets are stood on points or bases not touching to bake .
Paint has very little mass bumps and blotches seem not to adversely affect accuracy i should test this further but have not yet as i get all the accuracy i need for now .
I have since swaged some coated .185 lead wire and made .224 bullets they did not lead the barrel at about 3000 f/s my dies burr the bullet base and accuracy was awful . I used the cup from a large rifle primer and swaged the core into it as a gas check to get rid of burr accuracy improved quite a bit.
When I think back on all the **** I learned in high school it's a wonder I can think at all ! And then my lack of education hasn't hurt me none I can read the writing on the wall.
I am new to this PC thing and like all newbies I am experiencing some difficulties getting the powder to stick to the bullets. .38 148g WC. I wash in Acetone, dry, preheat the boolets to approximately 100° Place 60 boolets in a plastic jar, add 1/4c powder, close the lid and shake / swirl to exhaustion. I dump the bullets on a wire mesh to separate the powder from the boolets. What I end up with is coated lube groves and a light dusting on the boolets themselves. It was near 100° with low humidity here when I did this. I am using HF flat black , the only option available there.
Can someone bump me in the right direction? Thanks
First off, Get proper powder coat. Smokes of avalible to you right here on the board!
https://rumble.com/vtz57g-pt-1-powder-coating.html
https://rumble.com/vtz723-part-ii-powder-coating.html
CW
NRA Life member • REMEMBER, FREEDOM IS NOT FREE its being paid for in BLOOD.
Come visit my RUMBLE & uTube page's !!
https://www.RUMBLE.com/user/Cwlongshot
https://youtube.com/channel/UCBOIIvlk30qD5a7xVLfmyfw
Then as I understand it; my issue of the powder not sticking to the boolet is due to not using the correct brand powder (Smokes), when many here use HF, and some have pointed to videos of expert instruction where they are clearly using HF. idk.
Thank you for the reply
My understanding is smoke will try and ensure his powder works before he will put it for sale here. I like smokes because it works.
I just used Eastwood, same results. Paint sticks to the container (#5 in the triangle). Moving on to the vibrating case cleaner...
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |