I just received mt order from them base on some threads here and I have to say Wow this stuff is awsome. It kind of looks like marine lower end oil, kind of greenish black. I have to say it will probably spoil me.
I just received mt order from them base on some threads here and I have to say Wow this stuff is awsome. It kind of looks like marine lower end oil, kind of greenish black. I have to say it will probably spoil me.
You need to try it with a dash of cola and some ice.
For fine firearms and shooting requisites visit my Web Site by clicking the link below:
Pukka Bundhooks
I;m addicted to bull plate, I refuse to cast without it.
Give us this day our daily lead.
Sic Semper Tyrannis.
If you don't want 1984 you're going to need some 1776.
WWGWD
Hola, This must be the product that God gave to casters so they would stop voicing profanities!!
I am now casting with all my molds(34) just to dab some BSPL. It has brought a smile to my countenance; all those molds i stopped using are now dropping keepers, after the appropriate heating! I have a pile of real nice boolits, the hard part will be to separate them seriously THE best thing you can do is buy some.
I ordered some from the recommendations of forum members. Glad I did Good Stuff. Thanks to the Congiolosi's
Shiloh
Je suis Charlie
"A society of sheep must in time beget a government of wolves."
Bertrand de Jouvenel
Any government that does not trust its citizens with firearms is either a tyranny, or planning to become one. Joseph P. Martino
If you put the federal government in charge of the Sahara Desert , in five years there would be a shortage of sand. Milton Friedman
"Ideas are more powerful than guns. We would not let our enemies have guns; why should we let them have ideas?" - J. Stalin
I lube my presses with it.
Improvise,Adapt, OVERCOME.....
Where do you guys order this bull plate spue lube from??
The link to the Bullshop is at the bottom of this page.
armexmen, what problem did the sprue lube cure? I believe this lube is used to lube only the sprue plate and hinge? I llooked into ordering some but am spoiled on paypal so did not order the lube...No2 pencil seems to work for the sprue plate...
Its good stuff,just tried some,I can cut the sprue a lot sooner without lead smears on the blocks,I still get the occasional speck on top but they come off easy.I get faster production,less down time for cleaning smears,easier sprue cutting and less wear on the mould.
I have mixed feelings.
I like it for lubing the pivot bolt on the handles. I like it for making speed green. I've found a few other uses for it around the workshop.
I do NOT like to put it on my sprue plates. No matter how sparingly I dab it on, trying to keep it from getting in the cavity, it always gets there in the end and I get wrinkled bullets. Nor do I find that the sprue plate operates that much smoother. It DOES reduce lead smears, but I really don't care if my sprue has a lead smear on it, I DO care that I get a clean cut.
I don't knock it, I just say that in my experience I don't care for it for its main intended use- though I do like it for other applications.
This is the first mould I used it on,a lyman 4 cavity,I barely got a dab on a Q tip and smeared it on top of the blocks with boolits in it, top and bottom of the sprue plate.then I wiped it off with the other end leaving just a residue.
Quit following the directions. Get the mold hot, then wipe it on the underside of the sprue plate with a Q-Tip. I dip the Q-Tip and then wring it out on the bottle neck. You only want enough to make the plate shine. After you coat the plate, wipe it back off with a clean cotton rag or paper towel.. You may have to wipe it a couple times. At most you will get some pockets in the boolit's base after the first cast. I only ran into problems when I tried coating the tops of the blocks.
I have used Bullshop's Sprue Plate lube for some time. Frankly, I wouldn't be without it.
Here's how I do it. I get the mould up to speed (hot and casting well). Then, I cut the sprue leaving the bullets in the cavities. I shake the bottle. I then remove the bottle cap and only use the oil in the lid on one end of a q-tip. I wipe the top and bottom of the sprue plate. I carefully appy to the top of the mould avoiding the bullet bases. I IMMEDIATELY use the clean end of the q-tip and wipe all of the lube off everything (use if first on the mould top and just leave a film, only, on the top of the mould. Then I wipe of top and bottom of the sprue plate.
Sometimes I'll get wrinkled bullets for the first two or three casts after treating, sometimes not. I throw the wrinkled bullets back in the pot.
Now, if I open the mould too soon and I wipe some lead over the top of the mould, it wipes right off and doesn't build up.
One of the great characteristics of this lube is that it doesn't "bake on" and there is NO build up where you have used it.
Aluminum moulds should last forever when using this. Steel moulds show no wear whatsoever and most importantly, the lead wipes off (build up on both mould types can raise the sprue plate giving UGLY sprues to the base of bullets. That never happens with Sprue Plate lube.
One other thing. I apply to the indexing pins to keep wear from the most wear prone area of a bullet mould. Lee two cavity moulds tend to gall and/or stick at the alignment pins (aluminum to steel). After an application of Sprue Plate lube that never happens. These inexpensive moulds are no longer a pain in the tuckus to use.
FWIW
Dale53
All, I am a "experienced" caster (Not a Know-it-all). I too used the pencil, Leementing, Beeswax, and generally wrote the quirks of every mold. I followed Dan's directions and more! I apply it to the whole mold and am careful in not getting it in the cavities. For me I am able to cast better boolits than before. After I apply the lube, the cavities fill-out sharper, the base is smoother and the mold retains heat for a more consistent temperature basis. For a clearer idea; there is nothing like shooting the breeze while I am making boolits so you can see how much nicer boolits are produced. Kami, if you want, I can exhange info on a PM basis.
I have gone to my powder locker and reloading room and counted 51 molds(some are on loan).
I ordered several bottles simply by reading the testimonials here.... Money Orders are easy to do, so is cash in an envelope...
Thanks to everyone for the directions! I'm looking forward to easier casting. Anything that makes things go smoother and molds last longer is well worth the money.
Happy Shootin'! -Tom
I traded off a mould to Dan that he wanted a lot more than me and I got it for a good deal anyway, for some speed green and bullplate. The speed green is pretty good lube, haven't used it much, but man that bullplate is awesome. The Qtip is key here guys (pretty good for ears too). It keeps all my moulds running smooth.
Anybody heard from Bullshop lately, haven't run into any of Dan's posts?
Does anyone distribute ths stuff quickly in the lower 48?
Thanks,
Chris
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |