Well I found one but it uses 5 volt supply to operate... so I would have to add a Buck adapter to take the 12v power down to 5 volts... not sure how much room there is in the enclosure for another board.Originally Posted by GWS
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Well I found one but it uses 5 volt supply to operate... so I would have to add a Buck adapter to take the 12v power down to 5 volts... not sure how much room there is in the enclosure for another board.
I would just buy a 5 volt wall wart, or raid an old computer for its 5 volt power supply......no adapter required.
Warning to those who might want to try the 775 motor.......it requires a recess in the bottom to handle the ball bearing. So the base has to be modified there as well as the mounting hole changes. Looks like a good motor.....waiting to hear the success stories.
My mod story was a bit idiotic.....I made the changes for the above base, sent it to 45acp, then realized I modded the wrong base. He wanted the regular base, I modded the 300mm one......so.....I got to do it again.I learned a lot more that way, so not complaining. Now both sizes can use that motor if someone so desires.
Last edited by GWS; 03-28-2022 at 10:29 AM.
My Creality CR-10v2 bit the dust ....... again. I think I found a fix for prints stopping mid-stream and wanting new filament even though it didn't run out. Will let you know how it turns out. (I found a fixable design weakness in the filament sensor box)
Anybody else have recurring snafu's with Crealitys?
Maybe this would work, it is listed as 12 volt and as an alternative to the one that is no longer availble.
HiLetgo-Photoresistor-Sensor-Automatic-Controll
Newbie here, I have read the thread from the beginning and the latest manual. Great work and lots of information which answered the majority of my questions. I do have a couple of additional questions as I embark on 3D printing and this Collator Project. If I want to print one full set of parts for 7.62X39 Brass (Mongo Size) and one full set of parts for 7.62X39 Bullets (Normal size), what are the best options to choose on the Parts Generator (or directly to the stl files) for each (Brass and Bullets)?
Also, it seems that the motors shafts are not pinned? If they are not pinned what is the best way to pin them. Of should I just use the "hex couplers"? It seems that if I use the Hex Coupler I can still use the "Clutch" option?
Thank you for you help.
Tyler,
I need a favor. Can you remove the ridge from the APP_Bullet_Slide_223, whenever the boolits fall base down instead of base up they always get stuck on the ridge and I have to use a flathead screwdriver to lift them up a little. This actually applies to all of the plates but I just need the 223 right now.
Appreciate it.
I am using these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073XL5161...roduct_details
Your the 2nd one to recommend this... Thank you!
How long is the wire of the sensor? I have read that the wire inside is on the thin side of things...
The wire is 12”. I spliced in some wire from an old wall wart to get some extra distance.
Thanks!
Next stupid question.... How did you fasten down the boards(Optic control, motor control) in the electronics box or do you just let them hang in there?
Thanks
TylerR may be tied up somewhere, maybe I can help, tho. Look at the picture below.....not sure what you mean, but either one of those right for you? or even a rounded edge? I've never used those, so not sure how the bullets act. I doubt you can keep a base-down from falling, but a tipping problem that causes a hang most likely needs zero divot, zero chamfer to stop it. It won't likely tip if the point drops into mid air, rather than down a ramp. But I could be wrong......that's happened more than once or twice.Tyler,
I need a favor. Can you remove the ridge from the APP_Bullet_Slide_223, whenever the boolits fall base down instead of base up they always get stuck on the ridge and I have to use a flathead screwdriver to lift them up a little. This actually applies to all of the plates but I just need the 223 right now.
Appreciate it.
Making either change takes only two commands, selecting and deleting. Then converting to .stl and either TylerR putting it in the database or you could pm me your email and I could send it to you. Simple as that. Then you might let TylerR know if and why it works....
Another thought.....what about a deep chamfer.
Last edited by GWS; 03-28-2022 at 11:35 PM.
Sure. I always sand that part down to be nice and smooth, which prevents boolits from sticking. Just curious if you did that, and also what resolution you printed at. Can you post a video of the issue in action?Tyler,
I need a favor. Can you remove the ridge from the APP_Bullet_Slide_223, whenever the boolits fall base down instead of base up they always get stuck on the ridge and I have to use a flathead screwdriver to lift them up a little. This actually applies to all of the plates but I just need the 223 right now.
Appreciate it.
These guys are going to have to start paying you consulting fees.TylerR may be tied up somewhere, maybe I can help, tho. Look at the picture below.....not sure what you mean, but either one of those right for you? or even a rounded edge? I've never used those, so not sure how the bullets act. I doubt you can keep a base-down from falling, but a tipping problem that causes a hang most likely needs zero divot, zero chamfer to stop it. It won't likely tip if the point drops into mid air, rather than down a ramp. But I could be wrong......that's happened more than once or twice.
Making either change takes only two commands, selecting and deleting. Then converting to .stl and either TylerR putting it in the database or you could pm me your email and I could send it to you. Simple as that. Then you might let TylerR know if and why it works....
Another thought.....what about a deep chamfer.
Just stuff them in there!
Appreciate the feedback GWS, I was going to just make my own but I decided to look on thingiverse and saw that someone had already solved the issues that I was having so I went with those bullet sliders instead.
The first issue I had was the bullets sticking if it went base down, with this ramp it never sticks. Base down sitting on base up as it falls through the tube makes it stick in that groove, sanding or not it still gets stuck.
Second is if a bullet falls base down into the sizing die that I am using the tip of the bullet sticks up a good amount, (sometimes) and the slider gets stuck because you cannot pull it back from the bullet that's sticking up.
Appreciate the help but its working pretty good now base up or down.
Right............like we do you......and your consulting is worth a gold piece at least.These guys are going to have to start paying you consulting fees.
As for Sanfords problem, I think I'm going to print me the one with the deep chamfer......he got me curious.......personally I don't like anything that can encourage tipping.....which the one he found and printed looks to be doing.....I don't personally like short bevel chamfers for that reason either....and is why I did vastly better by sanding Lee's bevels off. So I'd like to see a video of that one working....
I'm on a out of town trip tonight, so it'll have to wait til I get home and til I get my stupid printer back working....haven't had time to test my "fix" on it yet......consisting of drilling 4 pinholes and sticking a long straight pin though it, to stop the micro switch from sliding over the filament line and opening when it shouldn't....(to fix sloppy Creality design of the filament sensor box.)
As for Sanford's comment, "the tip of the bullet sticks up a good amount, (sometimes) and the slider gets stuck because you cannot pull it back from the bullet that's sticking up"....geeze.... that sounds like the slider is too short for the bullet he's using. Seems to me that the slider needs to be at least as tall as any bullet you might use.
So Tyler, where have you been hiding? Hope you've been doing quality time with your wife and kids.....that beats wasting it with old geezers like me.
I can't believe I'm lying in a motel room in Albuquerque tonight, expecting to wake up tomorrow with snowy roads to drive home on......end of March no less. Global warming? What a crock of you know what....
Last edited by GWS; 04-02-2022 at 01:45 PM.
I have been in work hell. And when I am not there it is endless kid sports obligations. Being baseball commissioner for the town is a ton of work this time of year, and for a volunteer position people seem to expect professional service. That said I have some emails of yours that need responding to.Right............like we do you......and you consulting is worth a gold piece at least.
As for Sanfords problem, I think I'm going to print me the one with the deep chamfer......he got me curious.......personally I don't like anything that can encourage tipping.....which the one he found and printed looks to be doing.....I don't personally like short bevel chamfers for that reason either....and is why I did vastly better by sanding Lee's bevels off. So I'd like to see a video of that one working....
I'm on a out of town trip tonight, so it'll have to wait til I get home and til I get my stupid printer back working....haven't had time to test my "fix" on it yet......consisting of drilling 4 pinholes and sticking a long straight pin though it, to stop the micro switch from sliding over the filament line and opening when it shouldn't....(to fix sloppy Creality design of the filament sensor box.)
As for Sanford's comment, "the tip of the bullet sticks up a good amount, (sometimes) and the slider gets stuck because you cannot pull it back from the bullet that's sticking up"....geeze.... that sounds like the slider is too short for the bullet he's using. Seems to me that the slider needs to be at least as tall as any bullet you might use.
So Tyler, where have you been hiding? Hope you've been doing quality time with your wife and kids.....that beats wasting it with old geezers like me.
I can't believe I'm lying in a motel room in Albuquerque tonight, expecting to wake up tomorrow with snowy roads to drive home on......end of March no less. Global warming? What a crock of you know what....
As far as the bullet slide design, I do see one useful change that I just made. Made a cutout in the front of the slide so that when boolits go in base down the slide can still retract backwards and not get stuck. I am still at a loss on why the little ramp is an issue. especially when the alternative that was posted also has a ramp. As you said, the ramp can easily be removed, but I would need to see a demo of the problem in action.
I can relate to both the work hell, and the sports obligations.....sent you an email with a picture or two on the subject since it would be slightly off topic here.....I have been in work hell. And when I am not there it is endless kid sports obligations. Being baseball commissioner for the town is a ton of work this time of year, and for a volunteer position people seem to expect professional service. That said I have some emails of yours that need responding to.
As far as the bullet slide design, I do see one useful change that I just made. Made a cutout in the front of the slide so that when boolits go in base down the slide can still retract backwards and not get stuck. I am still at a loss on why the little ramp is an issue. especially when the alternative that was posted also has a ramp. As you said, the ramp can easily be removed, but I would need to see a demo of the problem in action.
Has anyone collated 357 Mag. brass successfully?
If so, which plate was used?
My factory Hornady case feeder absolutely sucks at it.
I have no issue with 9mm, .40, .45ACP, .223, 308, 30-06
GWS posted video of that a few pages back. at hyper speed even.
https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...=1#post5369971
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