Need a new tractor!

[farmbif]

just like greg says, I have one or 2 of those candidates, a 62 ford 4000, need a bit of work before it will get out of the barn again and a farrmal that is begging for a complete restoration.
there are some very good new off brand tractors that have lots of great features.

[MrWolf]

I have a Kubota BX and love it. Listen to what Paul suggested, you hould have at least 35 hp. My machine works for the majority of what I need, BUT it could really use more hp. Think my loader can only lift 600lbs (and that is pushing it) and backhoe could really use more power. With that being said, for MY place it does what I need it to do. The smaller size comes in handy when going through my fence gates, loading firewood, repairing my road, etc. Just takes a lil longer but it sips diesel. Really surprised how little it takes.

[tja6435]

I have a John Deere 60, it’s probably 2x the 8N

[akajun]

so if the 8n wasnt busting them you need to increase your weight and hp.
looking at the specs for an 8n you need more than 25hp and 2700 lbs. 4wd will help with traction some, IDK if you have ag tires on your tractor or if they are filled with fluid but that will give you your greatest traction.

My my 2004 massey Fergueson 1428v is 28 hp and 2800 lbs without the loader but it has R4 tires which aren't the best for traction. Mine are not fluid filled. But it does have a super low range and 4wd and the loader adds about 500 lbs which helps with traction. Ive done a lot of work with it for its size that I was suprised it did.

Id say start at a minimum of 30 hp 3000lbs if 4wd and 40hp 3500lbs if 2wd
Most tractors made after 2000 have electronic something or other and yes they do break but its not often. You have to figure that into your maintenance cost. The bigger issued is emmsions controls, after about 2016 tractors over 25 hp start to have either DEF, Regen, Or ODP systems and they can be a pain in the butt. That said Case/Farmall has an ODP system for tractors up to 75hp with No Def or Regen and it is pretty reliable. When I get a new big tractor thats prob what Ill go with.

[rockrat]

Used to have an 801, but now have a MF135 and a JD950 w/loader. Bought the wife a JD770 so she could mow the pasture, but a bit too big for her. Its probably the equivalent to your 8n and its what you should look for. I googled them to see what they are worth and places are not asking a lot for them. You could probably get a good one for under 5k. Its diesel and just sips diesel, kind of like the MF. The MF uses about a gallon an hour and I wouldn't be surprised that the 770 uses a bit less.

[Agent1187]

I've got a Ford 2110 from the mid 80s. 4wd 40hp diesel that's small enough to use around the yard, but big enough to get stuff done. No fancy electronics. The 4wd and front end loader get most of the use. I store all my firewood in IBC totes and just move it around with the forks. A full load of fresh wet oak is the upper limit though.

Only major downside is that the engine is a Japanese design, and specific parts would be hard find anywhere, let alone locally.

[Mk42gunner]

I have a Ford 8N built in 1950 that I use to mow, clean the horse stalls, and dig post holes most of the time. I had an ice dam form in one of the water ways last week and flood the shop. The 8N just couldn't move the dam so had a neighbor come over in his JD and break up the dam. I have not started looking yet but wife (CPA) said I could buy a bigger used tractor. I would like something bigger but still old school, no electrics. It must use 3 point hitch as everything I use with the 8N is 3 point. I don't know how new I can buy or size to meet the requirements. I take care of about 20 acres. So open to help on what tractors to look for.

I grew up operating a 1947 9N with a front end loader and the neighbors 8N, so I am fairly familiar with the N series capabilities. Frankly they are better than a team of horses, but not by much.

I take care of ten acres so our uses are probably pretty similar. Any tractor that is a significant improvement over the 8N you have now will be grossly overpowered for using on twenty acres; not to say that isn't fun, but...

I have an Allis Chalmers WD that my grandpa bought new in 1951. On paper it is a ~30 or so HP tractor. This one may have had a WD45 crank put in when it was overhauled; don't know and everyone that would know has passed away. My point is that it seems like at least three times the tractor the N series were.

If you want an old American tractor, I would look for something from the late fifties up, in the 30-50 HP range; making sure it is setup for three point, or is easily convertible. Implements get expensive fast.

Diesels are way more fuel efficient, but as long as the battery is up; I can start my gas powered WD with no worries about fuel gelling.

Robert

[warren5421]

A front end loader would make it easier cleaning the horse stalls. A neighboring farmer (1500 acres) who had the JD used to break the ice dam said he has a Ford Jubilee in his shead that he would sell cheep and would include the the plow and disc that came with it. He bought it new. Have not looked at it but reading about it seems about same size as my 8N. He uses it to pull a hay wagon and not much else.

[GONRA]

City Boy GONRA used to clean horse Stalls AFTER Arlington Park, IL racing season was over.....
Country Boys could doit 2X fast as us City Boys. (Pitch Fork Skills!)
One way or another, 40 stalls (3 boy crews) for 8 hrs pay. ($8.00 - "1950's"). (Paid for college!)

[Three44s]

My wife bought herself a tractor in 2019.

She wanted a small 4x4 with a loader. Our soil is almost clay so it’s pretty heavy.

I told her to concentrate on Kubota. When the dust settled she had a brand new M4-071 (not the narrow vineyard tractor, the field model). That’s no light weight at 71 hp.

She went with the Grand cab option and the third valve for the loader with the Skid steer quick attach. The attachments that the quick attach affords will leave you breathless!

Also since there are many used attachments out there, you have a window seat on bargains!

While the 4 wheel drive has its limitations when you are talking snow removal and a loader the option is a real gem. To really make a rubber tired tractor perform you need rear tire chains for for snow and ice irregardless of 4x4 though.

We researched the hydrostatic option and I shied away from it. Particularly with heavy use like a loader in the larger tractors, I prefer the wet clutch shuttle. Hydro is great in light pulling like running a pto hay baler or bush hogging or raking hay because of the infinite speed feature but we found out many years ago that in farming, pulling a lot of load is not where you want a hydro trans.

We get our own firewood from the mountains with that Kubota. We have a grapple that we load the logs in 22-23’ lengths, bring them home, process with help of the grapple. It takes a lot of fight out of wood processing. The Kubota with grapple even brings the cut blocks right up to the splitter.

When the snow flies the Kubota is switched over to a six way blade on the front. Our driveway is .7 miles averaging 6% slope so on cold snowy nights the cab, heater and led lights are a welcome sight for this old tired and cold rancher.

I will say this about fuel. A diesel beats a gas ride seven ways from Sunday. The cold weather demands treating your fuel to prevent gelling. In real deep cold a block heater is very wise. At 71 hp if you are really hauling the mail, the tractor goes through diesel a lot faster but a gasser would be atrocious then also.

Three44s

[ascast]

Go Red I have a collection of Internationals, mostly 300 and 350 Utilities. I have 300 U that is my go too machine, has a two point hitch with 3 point adapter. 40 hp, 2 .2 tons. An "M" for heavy pulling ( jugged up to supersize). The others are setup as fork lifts, loaders, backhoes. The power steering units are, so-so. My "go to" has manual and is a dream to drive. I do little farming but have 230 acres to work. I had to laugh when I read about your troubles. Around here Fords have the reputation of not being able to pull a dead cow out of the barn. soory, I had to... best of luck

[Fishman]

When I bought in 2001, I got a front-end loader attached to a Kubota b2910. I didn't want the tractor, but it was the only thing that would make the front end loader work.

Obviously this is tongue in cheek, but it does illustrate how valuable a front end loader is. Mine is a quick-detach loader, but I've never taken it off, ever. I've got a post hole digger, a box blade, a shredder and a tiller and the last one of those to go would be the box blade, because it is the best counterweight to the front end loader.

I would keep your current tractor for brushcutting etc. and buy another tractor primarily for moving stuff.

If you are interested in those type of tractors, check out tractorbynet.com

[buckwheatpaul]

In my previous post I talked about my Kubota's....but a little more info is due.....In Kubota the "B" series is their lightest tractor and is very limited in use, weight lifting, and durability. I have two friends with "B" series tractors and they are good but not a long duration tractor in my opinion.

The "L" series is a very good tractor and a very handy one. We have a L3400, 34 HP on the engine, and it is a work horse. It had a good front end loader, a 5' shredder, and a 5' box blade. It will handle the lighter post hole diggers as well. Ours had turf tires and is 4 wheel drive. I used it to rebuild a dam on one of our ponds, clean out the barn, and move a lot of dirt. One point that needs to be made is they will turn over if you overload the front end loader and keep it too high off the ground and the ground is not level...but I suspect that that would be an issue on any smaller tractor.

The "M" tractor series is a great overall tractor and is much heavier than the "L" series. We have two of them and the 54 HP will move 6' rounds of hay (but does need weight on the back), drills post holes, disc's pastures and does virtually anything involving shredding on an 8' shredder. It is our oldest tractor and I truly love it. If I was to replace it I would get at least a 65 HP as it would allow me to pull a round hay baler. The 95 HP is a cab and is a work horse. It takes care of the truly heavy work....it pulls a 10' shredder; drills post holes; pulls a pasture renovator with disc drag behind to breakup clots.

Like I said in the other post if you can find a "L" series it would be a great machine. We found our L3400 with 96 hours and had a front end loader for $15,000. It is my go to for most projects. Hope this helps and feel free to pm me is ya have any questions.....good luck and avoid the DEF tractors.....the simpler is better IMHO!

[ulav8r]

My BIL has a Kubota B23??. About 23 hp, has a FEL and Backhoe that I have used. Has two drawbacks, not enough power to work quickly or complete some jobs, and small wheels that don't handle rough or soft ground well.

[warren5421]

Finding an older Kubota without electronics around here is like finding hens teeth! Up till a few years ago it was all farm ground so lots of farm tractors or newer Kubotas. The local Kubota dealer has a 2007, the oldest used one he has. I may have to wait till April when the local used tractor and implement auction place has a big auction. Last time I went the smaller 1965 and older tractors were going for less $2000. The farmers wanted bigger and newer or cabs. Seen a nice Oliver Row Crop 66 sell for under $600

[jonp]

Ran an entire dairy farm with one of these https://www.tractordata.com/farm-tra...guson-135.html

Here are a few https://www.tractorhouse.com/listing...35&Country=178

I'd pay several grand for one of these used before buying a new one especially one with the DEF nonsense on it. My friend who owns the farm is still doing the majority of his work with it 50yrs later and still uses a 20hp Farmall I think it is to pull the hay wagon.

[Gator 45/70]

I like my L3901 plenty enough, 135 hrs on it,Wish my woods would dry up but after hurricanes Laura and delta drainage is a problem, Guess all the trees down has really slowed down drainage.

[warren5421]

As I'm a cheap old guy I don't want to spend over $10,000 would rather spend under a $1.00.

[Jeff Michel]

Massey Ferguson, any model between 135 -265. They are easy to work on, built like a tank.

[labradigger1]

I have a 2N and a 8N. Used them both because thats what i had. A couple years ago i saw a 67’ farmall 504 wide front end tractor on the web for 1700.00. Went to look at it and when i got there he said it was blowing blue smoke since he last started it. I took it a short drive, torque amplifier tranny worked well, live pto, auxiliary hydraulic remotes, power steering and heavy as hell with the 38” tires ballasted with calcium chloride. I got it for $1400 and he delivered it for me. Turns out the gas had ran into the oil pan and saturated the oil. Thats where the smoke came from. I decided to do a in frame rebuild anyways. Turns out the front piston and wrist pin were about to let go. Rebuilt and good to go. This is a gas tractor. Some reviews of the 504’s people gripe about them not having any guts unless you had them wide open. This wasnt a issue for me since i dont plow fields. Mostly use a post driver, brush hogs, back blades and such. 50 hp is plenty for me and having power steering, live pto and good disc brakes made all the difference in the world plus its easy to work on. My only compliant is those 38” rears tires are spendy and im tight.

Keep looking, 8n’s were as stated above, better than a horse but not by much. Deals are out there still.