I use Turtlewax polish. Found at urban WM and actually stolen from my cart by a woman loading her new suv, next to me as walked to the hatch. I noticed the next day, missing from car, and had to go back. This stuff works well
I use Turtlewax polish. Found at urban WM and actually stolen from my cart by a woman loading her new suv, next to me as walked to the hatch. I noticed the next day, missing from car, and had to go back. This stuff works well
What he said!!!
I, unfortunately, learned this the hard way before I saw the warnings from others. I know there's always going to be the die-hards who say they use it all the time without problems but it WILL weaken brass, as I said I found this out too late but I will never use brasso on any of my cases ever again!
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brasso works great for me
I've not found any significant differences in dry powdered metal polishes; they all work.
Bottled polishes are simply a mixture of liquid cleaner (to cut surface crud) and a powdered metal polish. Liquid or gas fumes, I don't understand all I know about how ammonia permeates brass and makes it brittle but I know it does. BUT, Brasso is a very popular brass polish partly because it has ammonia that cleans the metal very well so it can be polished.
Thing is, like all liquids, ammonia evaporates as a gas vapor so, given time, it escapes the polish and blows away; when the foul odor is gone, the ammonia is gone.
I pour any liquid auto polish I have lying around on the bottom of a cheap dinner plate and put the plate in a clean place to dry up (or down?) until it leaves a layer of dry polishing powder I can store in a large mouth pill bottle. An occasional half teaspoon full of the powder dusted into my tumbler media is cheap and works great, without any fear of ammonia attacking my cases.
Seems some eager people use far more polish in their media than is helpful. New, clean media grains get overloaded with excess polish which forms a hard, smooth gray "plating"; it's frequently called "worn out" and tossed when it's really just over charged with liquid polish. Too much wet polish (Nufinish, etc.) poured into the media sometimes even plates itself onto the tumbler walls.
Iosso polish
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I use the Frankford arsenal stuff from Midway at $40.00 +a quart, I use 2 quarts a year.
Last edited by fivegunner; 07-27-2021 at 07:41 AM. Reason: Speling
I have used several things over the years (and, yes, I abandoned Brasso for the ammonia bit many moons past). Recently I came upon a muchly lowered price bottele of Berry's and have been much pleased by it.
Never heard of iosso, but I will look into it!
I just ordered a QT,$54.00 a Qt!! It works so well and I use so much of it .I think I`ll try to find out what it is made out off, and then buy in bulk to save money. what do you guys think ??
After wet tumbling normally I though the brass in the vibratory tumbler with Lizard Litter and about a cap full or so of NuFunish.
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Yesterday I tried some Meguiar's G17701 Ultimate Wash & Wax as a rinse. The jury is still out on the benefit other than the pleasant smell.
Wet tumble with dawn and lemmi shine!
I don't care if they shine, just as long as they are clean, that is all I want.
I lost my recipe for wet tumbling with dawn and lemi shine. Can some one help me out?
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Citric acid added to any detergent and water works very well.
1/4 teaspoon of citric acid. A squirt of dawn and an hour in the wet tumbler
Ymmv
Originally Posted by Theodore Roosevelt
ArmorAll Wash’nWax and citric acid is cheap and effective. I skip the pins: using them makes the case interiors as sticky in my expander dies as factory new brass, and I don’t think the internal ballistics care if the inside of the case isn’t shiny.
I'm still using what's left of the partial bottles and a can of cleaner wax I got at an estate sale for $2 awhile back.
For Meguier's and Turtle Wax brands, I figured two bucks for all of it, I couldn't go wrong.
It works well on the truck too.
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BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |