Yes, the "not in production" cartridges command a premium price.
I load .410 on a deluxe Lee loader.
Yes, the "not in production" cartridges command a premium price.
I load .410 on a deluxe Lee loader.
WebMonkey
Retired 19D
Psalm 91:9
Honda 919
I have a mequin loader.
The one with the red plastic primer tool.
Neck expander and crimp tool.
The main body of the loader is solid unlike the newer ones and you adjust the depth in the seater Stem head.
The case holder is wider and the main tool body fits into a groove on the top of the base unlike the newer versions which just sit on top of it.
I use both new and old.
Both do a good job.
I prefer the mequin but the lee takes up less space overall in a pack.
I would make or get a neck expander and deburr tool.
Primer pocket cleaner....nah use the de-primer pin.
And wipe your brass clean.
Can load good ammo on it and I use them mostly always and I have to sit away from buy bench as it is too much of a mess to load on any more.
I mean I enjoy being able to use it in various locations instead of a fixed area.
Hey they’re faster than a speeding 310 tong tool.
But that I can use that in front of the telle.
Hope it helps.
The shotgun loaders are going for pretty high prices on eBay right now, unfortunately. I really wanted a 12 gauge kit. I haven't had the chance to try any of these kits yet, but getting one in each of the calibers I carry is definitely on my agenda. I'm wondering how the .308 kit works out, especially since I also want to use cast bullets, anyone have experience with cast bullets and the .308?
Have a 30-30 but will find it will size down the neck a little too much for cast and because of the diameter you cannot drop the bullet down the top.
This is no issue
You can use a flare tool to open the neck diameter and start iron the neck then insert the body of the die over the top.
Works better that way anyway.
I hone mine out a tad to lessen the sizing.
With different neck thickness brass you get different diameters anyway.
If I was home I’d show you a pic of a expander.
I loaded 240 rds of 9mm this week with a lee loader. Kinda goofey as I have a new press still in the box. Shot 40 of the loads yesterday with good result. yeah, I'm kinda goofey.
"My main ambition in life is to be on the devil's most wanted list."
Leonard Ravenhill
I have Lee Loaders in .223 Remington, 6.5x55mm swede, 30-06(2), 8x57mm, .38 special, .357 magnum, .45Acp/AR, and 20 gauge shotgun. I have and still use them all occasionally except the 20 gauge, which I do not have a 20 gauge shotgun. I like them and find using them relaxing. my experience anyway, james
I sometimes use the Lee Loader sizing feature with my Harbor Freight arbor press. Kind of a "poorboy" Wilson hand die. The will provide a very concentric neck sized piece of brass. Gp
Just some thoughts to add to this thread.
I started loading with a Lee Loader in .243 in 1971. Like an idiot I sold the gun but I still have the Lee Loader, the brass, bullets and powder.! Next I got a .44 Magnum so I got a Lee Loader for it, but soon found out I was loading too many rounds so I got a Rockchucker, that was 1978. Probably loaded 500-1000 rounds of .44's with the Lee Loader. I also started casting with that gun and Lee Mould and Lead Pot. Still have those too. My plastic mallet was a Snap ON mallet and I still have it, but the plastic faces are gone, its sitting on top of one of my tool boxes..
Loaned to Lee Loader to a friend, and the ******* gave it away with his gun.
If I was only loading one or two calibers it would be done with a Lee Loader, and this is coming from the purveyor of the finest hand reloading press ever made. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xEpYQMdnxHY&t=1s
One thing to understand about Lee Loaders is that Richard Lee didn't invent this type of tool. The tool is known as a Hand Die and goes back to the beginning of reloading Brass Cartridges. These tools were never meant to be beat on with a mallet. They were meant to be used with a small Arbor Press or a Drill Press used as an Arbor Press.
Richard Lee just figured out an inexpensive way to combine the sizing die and seating die into one die body and came up with the plastic mallet to run the thing. Wilson Hand dies are effectively the same type of tool but costs hundreds instead of $35.
Final point: If you start the primer in the primer pocket by hand and then toonce it home in the die with the mallet, you won't set off a primer.
I have never set off a primer in 50 years.
Randy
"It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
www.buchananprecisionmachine.com
I have both a Lee Loader and an old 310 tool in 7.62x54r Russian; both work just fine, and load good ammo. Imho, the 310 tool is much easier, faster, and frankly a more elegant solution for a hand reloading tool than the Lee. I can sit on the couch, neck size, deprime and reprime cases with the 310 tool , or on the loading bench at the range. The Lee requires hammering , which is OK but slow.
I use a lead ingot with a cloth under it and a lead faced hammer with a lee loader.
Sure makes it easier on the ears hammering away.
"It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
www.buchananprecisionmachine.com
I have two that are a 6mm and a 6.5mm and the 6.5 was beat on with a steel hammer and looks like some one used the die body to beat rivers out of a steel car frame since the steel bar that came with it is so buggered up it won't enter the die body. The body is beat up at both ends but the inside is perfect.
I have rifles in both calibers and will restore the beat up one.
They are both missing the primer seater' bullet seater.No powder scoops or shell
holders used in seating and depriming.
No decapping pins.
Both boxes are there and no papers except the charge card for the 6mm.
Hardly enough for a basket case.
I have a small lathe and mill so I can remake what's missing.
The die body for each is here and that's the biggest thing to make.These are black and red boxes.
I am surprised no one has mentioned the "Target Model" Lee loaders. They usually get a premium price on Ebay.
Micah 6:8
He hath shewed thee, O man, what is good; and what doth the LORD require of thee, but to do justly, and to love mercy, and to walk humbly with thy God?
"I don't have hobbies - I'm developing a robust post-apocalyptic skill set"
I may be discharged and retired but I'm sure I did not renounce the oath that I solemnly swore!
Ought to be a country song by that name.
"When I die I want them to put my favorite LEE LOADER in the box with me."
That would be a
.45 Colt in case I can't find one when they resurrect us us all. I know they quit making them and they will probably be hard to find.So I want to have mine with me and I'll be ready for whatever.
I am just getting reacquainted with the 12 Ga Lee loader that I have had a long time. It is a newer model with plastic primer punch and seater . It works fine with AA hulls An I am getting good crimps. I have a 20 ga older model that I have never used and will try it out pretty soon.When you break a deprimer punch on the rifle and pistol sets I discovered that if you heat the rod enough the pin stub will come flying out with a loud pop. Luckily it was pointed in a safe direction. I think they are super glued in and I super glued a broken off 7/64 drill bit shank to replace the original pin. It works. I also repaired my universal deprime die this way.
Quis Quis Quis, Quis Liberat Canes
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Millions and millions of American shooters and sportsmen got up, went to work, contributed to society in useful and meaningful ways all over the nation and shot no one today! How do they controll themselves?? Experts Baffled....
I LIKE IKE
I have used the 12 GA. LEE LOADER from the paper shells to when the new plastic shells started getting used.
The paper shells always crimped right away but the plastics , you had to push down for the final crimp and count to twelve meantime , holding the pressure.
Then when you let off and pulled out the shell, it seems like it could remember the crimp and stay closed.
Otherwise, a quick in and out and the crimp would start to unfold.
This was especially true in cold weather reloading.
Had to drop hot candlewax on them and they'd still be fighting to unfold.
But after I discovered holding the crimp for a bit longer, they seemed to be ok.
That was about 1958 or maybe 1960 when I first saw plastic shells.
Federals I think.
Alcan powder , wads and primers were the only ones available that I could get
You had to build your wad columns to fit the shot loads to get a good crimp as well. Later on they had the plastic wads and it all became easier.
With that building wad columns, I found it easier to use a roll crimper.
The LEE handloader for shotshell still works and is fun to use.
Alferd, that was our experience to a tee. We were given several thousand once fired paper 12 gauge hulls and all crimped fine with the Lee Loader. Tried the wax seal on plastic hulls with results similar to your description. I often wonder if we would have had better luck heating the crimp plunger before trying to crimp the plastic hulls.
I was gifted 100 new, never loaded, Remington low base plastic hulls. Establishing a crimp on them was hopeless. Even bought the little Lee crimp starters, again no luck.
When the “Uni-Wads” came out, setting wad length got simpler.
It was the Lee Loader that got me into handloading in the 1960s. It seems I paid around ten bucks each. I have a number of them in different calibers and still use them.
The only real complaint I had with the tool is the priming technique. After I set off a few primers and developed a flinch, including near misses with the rod coming out of my hand towards the ceiling, I bought the excellent Lee hand primer, which solved the problem.
Lee is #1 in my book for his economic and effective products which have brought the great hobby of handloading to so many folks through the years.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |