Anyone here make them?????
I have a few that I'd like to replace.
Anyone here make them?????
I have a few that I'd like to replace.
I've had one that cracked and split.
I packed it full of JB weld, and clamped & shoved it back where it belongs.
It's been doing OK so far.
In school: We learn lessons, and are given tests.
In life: We are given tests, and learn lessons.
OK People. Enough of this idle chit-chat.
This ain't your Grandma's sewing circle.
EVERYONE!
Back to your oars. The Captain wants to waterski.
I know I have a mold that is missing one handle.
Probably have some missing both.
I was thinking of getting a small wood lathe to make replacement handles.
As if I needed another "TO DO" on the long list.
In school: We learn lessons, and are given tests.
In life: We are given tests, and learn lessons.
OK People. Enough of this idle chit-chat.
This ain't your Grandma's sewing circle.
EVERYONE!
Back to your oars. The Captain wants to waterski.
Not sure what wood the originals are made from but I make replacements from red iron bark, very hard and almost indestructable!
Hold Still Varmint; while I plugs Yer!
You can drill a piece of wood and carve the handle if you want. I have a lathe and have turned some, but have also carved a hatchet handle or two.
Wayne the Shrink
There is no 'right' that requires me to work for you or you to work for me!
You can do these on a table saw. Hex gives a good grip and you can sand down the edges if you like.
Heavier, more durable wood transmits heat better. Lighter wood is a better insulator. These are Oak.
Mal
Mal Paso means Bad Pass, just so you know.
1" Dowel from the Hardware store and then get creative with the Sandpaper.
The quick and easy for a completely missing handle is header wrap from the auto parts store and electrical tape. Found a few in my grandpas's stash done that way and he had a wood lathe.
NRA High Master XTC
DR# 2125
Used a 3/4" or 7/8" dowel from hardware store, drilled out the center( did use a lathe for this part to keep centered) , used a PEX tubing metal bend to go over the end where you install the handle( could use piece of conduit or copper pipe), install handle - there is little chance this thing is going to split. I made many of these.
Replacement mould handles arnt hard to make. and can be a fun project. They can be done with hand tools. Wood can be wherever you find it. I suspect a lot of handles are a maple. But any wood works.I have used poplar wood dowels oak maple.
Tools required to make mould handles
center head or means of finding center of the dowel
Drill motor
drill the size to accept the tang
small drill if you wish to pin.
files and saw.
small vise or table and c-clamps to hold handle while drilling
Consumables
epoxy
epoxy bar finish this is almost indestructible when cured
sand paper
Steel wool
wood dowel
Locate center of dowel on end center punch to give good start
drill to depth hand drill works drill press is better a lathe is best
shape handle files and sand paper again a lathe makes this the easiest.
mix epoxy and pour measured amount in hole and insert release coated tang in place let harden. This forms the ideal tang shape and git. clean up excess
finish sand and shape
Mix the bar finish epoxy and coat outside of handle play a light heat gun or blow drier over it warming to release air bubbles. This is an incredibly hard durable coating.
When cured glue tang in pin or both.
If you want a metal ferrule a cooper end cap fitted and drilled makes a good one
Sounds like a good Business opportunity for some youngster to earn some lunch money...
If you are going to epoxy the handles take the time to file a couple of sharp grooves into the tang first. This provides a couple of surfaces for the epoxy to lock into and makes them harder to pull off.
NRA Endowment Member
Armed people don't march into gas chambers.
I think I'm going to try.
Can't be any worse than it is now.
I make ferrules from a piece of copper tubing. Cut to about 1/2 inch long, deburr. Fit to the handles via some judicious whittling and drive them on. Then punch a dimple in them with a nail that has the end rounded to keep them on.
The red heat resistant RTV silicone makes a good bedding for mold handles. Besides being heat resistant it absorbs shock and holds up well.
Sometimes life taps you on the shoulder and reminds you it's a one way street. Jim Morris
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |