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Thread: First Post 50YO newbie

  1. #1
    Boolit Mold Gripit's Avatar
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    First Post 50YO newbie

    Hello all,

    I'm gonna jump in and ask a question. Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	260252 I bought a new accurate mold 45-300-E and after casting 100plus bullets, I can't seem to get a "perfect bullet" at least not consistently. I'm casting hardball alloy from rotometals, from a bottom pour Lee pot. I've tried cleaning the mold with Dawn and hot water and brake cleaner. I've turned up the melt, turned down the melt, increased and decreased pour pressure.
    I'm a 35 year handloader who decided to start casting for my wheel guns and maybe I'm expecting too much too soon but I want to make cast bullets that are better than commercially available bullets.
    Please steer me straight.

    Thanks for any advise y'all can share.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master

    Kraschenbirn's Avatar
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    First thing I'd try would be going back to Square One and thoroughly cleaning the mould cavities, again. Like start with a thorough scrubbing using dish detergent and a toothbrush followed by a rinse with water and a clean toothbrush. After that, I might rinse the cavities again with carb cleaner followed by another scrubbing.

    BTW: Welcome aboard.

    Bill
    "I'm not often right but I've never been wrong."

    Jimmy Buffett
    "Scarlet Begonias"

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy
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    New mold, New caster. It will come, Mo heat. A little frosting is nothing to worry about. You will fine tune as you go. good luck, uncle mike

  4. #4
    Boolit Master


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    Welcome to the forum. It's hard to tell from the pictures what is exactly going on. Tom at Accurate makes an excellent mold. It looks like there may be foreign matter in your alloy? With a bottom pour pot the foreign stuff usually floats to the top so shouldn't be coming out of the spout. One of the hardest parts for me to learn was to get the mold hot enough. You can have alloy very hot but if the mold is not hot enough you won't get good bullets. A cold mold usually results in wrinkled bullets which doesn't seem to be the case with yours? I wish I could be of more help. I'm sure there will be others along soon to help.
    Good Luck,
    Rick

  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master fredj338's Avatar
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    Preheat the mold, cast about 700deg. In my experience, a new mold takes a bit of time to season after a good cleaning. The top bullet in you pic looks about as good as it gets though.
    EVERY GOOD SHOOTER NEEDS TO BE A HANDLOADER.
    NRA Cert. Inst. Met. Reloading & Basic Pistol

  6. #6
    Boolit Master kmw1954's Avatar
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    Not much help from me either other than the top bullet looks very nice, bottom one not so much.

    I have only been casting for about 8 months and still learning myself. The few previous session went very well and then I went back to a Lee 200gr RNFP with a different alloy and they turned out like poo. So I don't know if it was me or the new alloy. Try again and see if results improve. try different things, faster, slower, more time left in the mold, less time.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master on Heaven’s Range
    WHITETAIL's Avatar
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    Gripit, welcome to the madness.
    As said start with a good cleaning.
    I am talking from over 40 years in the
    tool making field.
    Then I would get a single burner electric
    hot plate from WW. Use an old saw blade
    on the hot plate.
    Get the mould up to a warm temp.
    Then start pouring the lead.
    You will improve with time the heads
    are not that bad but they will get better
    with time.
    Good luck and may GOD BLESS
    Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy!
    Ben Franklin

  8. #8
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Experiment with your cadence, faster and slower. Also if you dont have one pick up a thermometer so you know what temp you have, what works,and can repeat it. Even if your thermometer is off 25* it is repeatable to its reading. Flux and clean your melt well before starting to cast.

    When casting cast when sorting sort, dont try to do both at the same time. It slows your cadence and breaks concentration. Casting at a pace that keeps the mould hot and in the running range is important. a cooler melt and you cast faster to maintain this a hotter melt and slower pace to keep mould temps down. Pour a large sprue this helps to keep the plate hot and allows for better fill out.

  9. #9
    Moderator Emeritus


    JonB_in_Glencoe's Avatar
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    Gripit,
    Welcome to the Forum.

    Practice makes perfect. Keep trying.

    When I began casting, I spent about 6 months reading posts here and reading the Lyman Castbullet handbook 4th Ed. ...as well as, doing some casting here and there ...anyway, I wasn't real happy with my own cast boolits, until I spent the 6 months practicing and reading.
    Good Luck.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

  10. #10
    Boolit Master

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    Welcome sir, to a compulsive addiction!

    I've been reloading well over 50 years, and when I started casting about 20 years ago, found out I had a lot to learn and new skills to acquire. My first couple of hundred cast boolits were a disaster, not a half dozen were keepers.

    You have started out with a top of the line mold, Accurate. Your mold has to be absolutely CLEAN and HOT! Use a hotplate to preheat your mold. I'm using 50/50 Pb/WW for pistol & revolver, and I cast hotter than most, at least 750* or more, from a bottom pour pot. I keep the mold about an inch, maybe a little less, below the nozzle of the pot. Leave a lot of extra molten metal on top of the sprew plate, be generous, keep pouring after the cavity is full. Be a slob. Give the metal a chance to cool and solidify before cutting the sprew, you'll see the shade of the metal change after pouring, from shinny liquid to a dull gray when it solidifies. It takes 5 or 10 seconds. Then cut the sprew. You'll get into a rhythm when it all comes together.

    Use a Q tip and some synthetic 2 cycle oil to lubricate the sprew plate screw & locating pins. Only a tiny amount, you don't want to get any oil in the cavities. I use a flat carpenters pencil and go over the top of the mold and bottom of the sprew plate and the mold faces, this keeps the plate sliding smoothly, and prevents the soldering of led onto those surfaces, especially Iron molds.

    Others here will have different methods & techniques, but this is what works for me. Don't despair, don't give up, keep at it. It will be frustrating at first, but it'll all come together. Good luck.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
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    The thing that made the biggest difference for me was getting the mold to the right temperature and keeping it there. See this thread, especially the posts by geargnasher: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...end-about-temp

    The rest is practice, in that practice refines your technique so that it becomes efficient and repeatable so that you can maintain the right cadence that keeps the mold at optimum casting temperature, and that gives you the experience that will let you adjust properly to different molds, alloys, etc., that might need altered temps and cadences.

    And welcome to the forums!

  12. #12
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    Winger Ed.'s Avatar
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    Welcome aboard.
    This is an addiction, but try to keep a low profile or your family may schedule an intervention.

    Its a learning curve, and your mold will need to season with use like Grandma's cast Iron frying pan.

    The one thing I hadn't seen mentioned is to flux the pot once in awhile as you're going along.
    Also, I don't know if, or how long it takes for the melt to separate/stratify,
    but I stir mine with a big, old, screwdriver every 10 minutes or so.

    It may be my imagination, but I think it helps keep the boolit weights more consistent.
    In school: We learn lessons, and are given tests.
    In life: We are given tests, and learn lessons.


    OK People. Enough of this idle chit-chat.
    This ain't your Grandma's sewing circle.
    EVERYONE!
    Back to your oars. The Captain wants to waterski.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master

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    +1 for the new mold, new caster. All the advice above is spot on. Although I do not have any Accurate molds (mostly Lee, some SAECO and Lyman) I have had similar results. The only molds I have had that dropped perfect the first time were Lee and an NOE mold. Several molds took a lot longer to 'season' in, maybe 200 casting cycles. Your worst boolt in the picture could be shot, but if you are like me you will probably reject it. I powder coat with Airsoft BB PC and you wouldn't even see the minor imperfections.

    Good looking boolit profile, looks like something that would shoot well in either my Old Model Vaquero or 20" Classic Carbine, both 45 Colt. I have a Lee C452-310 RF that I have not cast with yet. A buddy actually ordered 2 so he gave me the extra mold. I make my own gas checks but found that with PC I don't need them. Heck, I even got a set of dies from PatMarlins that makes plain base gas checks from soda can material. They work great but with PC I don't need them either.

    Welcome to the casting addiction, Rotometal is a good outfit and their alloy is top shelf. There are a ton of other vendors where you can get good alloy at competitive prices. Gone are the days when I was getting lead free from the range at work (retired LEO) or 50 lbs a week for the cost of a pizza or some cheeseburgers taken to the guys at a tire shop.

    Enjoy this new facet of reloading. I liked a tag line a member here uses which says something like 'I got into reloading to save money, I'm sure the savings are going to happen someday.' You don't save money, you just shoot more.
    Common sense Gun Safety . . .

    Is taught at the Range!

  14. #14
    Boolit Mold Gripit's Avatar
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    I knew I was getting into a never ending rabbit hole. I enjoy every part of shooting...even brass prep.
    Thank all of you for sharing your wisdom with me. I thought I scrubbed that mold, with a toothbrush, plenty long enough. Also the brake cleaner and Q-tips. I'll give it another go.
    My thermometer is in transit, so I'll wait a couple days and start the process again.
    You guys are great, Thanks again.

  15. #15
    USMC 77, USRA 79


    Markopolo's Avatar
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    how much tin is in the roto metals alloy?? also, take a old bath towel, lay it on something flat and rub the boolit on it to buff it out a bit.. see what it looks like then?
    Any technology not understood, can seem like Magic!!!

    I will love the Lord with all my heart, all my soul, and all my mind.

  16. #16
    Boolit Mold Gripit's Avatar
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    Hardball Bullet Casting Alloy ingot- 5 pounds (2%-Tin,6%-Antimony,and 92%-Lead)
    Rotometals.com

    When I buff the bullet with a towel it looks pretty good. It's like a surface thing. They both weigh 301 grains.

  17. #17
    Boolit Master


    Walter Laich's Avatar
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    I'll go along with the repeated cycles for 'seasoning' the mold.

    all of the other ideas are good ones, too

    keep it up, there is a bit of magic in casting
    NRA Life
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    SASS Life 48747
    RVN/Cambodia War Games, 2nd Place

  18. #18
    Boolit Buddy Cast_outlaw's Avatar
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    wash Cavities with dawn like others said let dry if you have problems still I found smoking the cavity’s with a butane lighter helped me most times

  19. #19
    Boolit Master gnostic's Avatar
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    From the appearance of your lower bullet, I'd guess your mold and metal are too hot. A frosted bullet like on top is good, but the lower bullet looks like the mold was too hot, slow down a bit...
    Last edited by gnostic; 04-14-2020 at 03:08 PM.

  20. #20
    Boolit Master
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    welcome Gripit.yes one deep rabbit hole lol.There is one very nice thing about casting bullets that i have found.Lead don't go bad afyer many pours.the nect good thing is if the casting gods i not smiling on you shut everything off and try agin tomarrow.Even the people with alot of yeas casting have a bad day.

    Now you I didnt see anything about sprue plate lube.I use a good qulity 2 cycle oil.from the looks of your Bad lookin bullet it could be some cntamination in your mold but maybe not.one of the things i did whe istarted was clean the mold alot.Now you do need a clean mold but once it is clean leave it alone for a few casing sessions.this way the mold will brak in for you.If you keep claninig it all the time it will just keep casting like carp.I suspect more of a temp problem.onec you get that themomerter you can see when the heat gets ballaced out study.Go ahead and get the heat up about 730 to 750.AND make sure the mold it up to temp.if you get Frosty bullets back of the speed you are casting and or back the temp off a bit.New molds i sametime just cast enough with it to get the mold good and hot.then let is cool off till the next time you have time to cast.it will get batter as you go.you have a realy ggod lookin bullet.now all youneed to do is figure out that you didnt to get them to cast like that.The mold will tell you alot if the sprue cuts hard you are either to cold or waiting to long to cut the sprue.If the lead smears the mold is to hot.When the sprues cut good and the bullets drop from the mold easy you have it right.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check