what parent case can I use to make/form 6.5 JAP. from and how. what would be a good load for same?
what parent case can I use to make/form 6.5 JAP. from and how. what would be a good load for same?
Really, none. 303 Savage or 303 British might work but the Brit is too long and both rims are too big. And depending on the maker, the case base diameter could be too far off.
Just buy new Norma or PPU cases. Or better yet buy loaded ammo and make empties.
Always wanted a 20" Contender barrel chambered in 6.5 Jap. Would make are real good deer killer. Little recoil but up to 160 grs of bullet.
For these odd cases, I buy PPU ammo and reload later. The case isn’t that much cheaper than ammo - maybe 25c per round when I bought it. Hard to load a jacket bullet, powder and primer for 25c.
Use NEW .303 Brit brass after you have turned the rims to fit your bolt face. Then form the brass with a trim die if you can find one and afford it after you find it.
The chambers are really a lot bigger than factory brass. You can shoot factory brass in those rifles but the brass will really swell. The factory brass works ok for a little bit of shooting but I would not recommend it for heavy use.
I forgot to add that older Hornady manuals have lots of loading data for the 6.5 Jap.
Last edited by EDG; 04-10-2020 at 12:58 AM.
EDG
I did have the reamer to make 6.5-257 chambers, Have a couple of rifles I built. Could also run a 260 Remington chamber in it.
I one bought some reformed 6.5 Japanese that had been made from 30-40 Krag. The case webs had been lathe turned down. About 1/3 of them split at the web on the first firing, with mild loads. I bought some Privi-Partizan and will destroy the rest of the custom cases. I don’t recommend this procedure.
Older RP and WW Krag brass is about .455" in diameter at the head and is a little too large for a 6.5 Jap chamber without turning it.
I am not surprised that it had to be reduced. It sounds like it was reduced to much or the brass was defective. You may have the same problem with PPU brass in .303 since it is also .455.
What is really needed is RP, WW or FC brass in .303 Brit. Hornady brass in .303 is also supposed to be .450 too but I do not own any of it to know first hand.
The .303 brass in those brands is .450 to .451 and will be a nice close fit in the Jap chambers when fire formed.
EDG
Can form then from 35 Rem as well. The neck will be a little short but they work great and fit the chamber of my 6,5 Carbine better then the factory.
Many DECADES ago, teen age GONRA beat my brains out making 6.5x50.5 SR Japanese from .35 Remington brass.
Believe me, JUST BUY FACTORY brass. Get a nice proper SEMI RIMMED CASE, etc. far better than anything you can make.
I've made it from 220 Swift brass. Is Swift brass available?
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220 Swift is the easiest but with the low price of proper headstamped brass why bother.
Yes, I bought factory 6.5 Japanese from Grafs.
I would now just buy factory brass as well. I had to make brass for mine, some 50 years ago all you could buy was Norma Brass. I was just a kid and could not afford Norma, few people reloaded and relatives would give me there 35 rem brass after deer season was over. The frist box of ammo I purchased for my rifle cost more then what I bought the rifle for. Some bubba had chopped the stock to pieces so I got the rifle for $19.00.
Some of us just like to see what's possible. I made 6.5 Jap from 30-06. I draw the base down in four steps. Size in sizing die with Lanolin/castor oil lube, trim to length. The extractor groove needs to be recut and the neck may need to be reamed or turned. A lot of work: a press and lathe is required and time. I use only military brass with just the date and manufacturer so the finished round is easily identified by me.
I've got to hand it to you guys. I love to tinker with stuff too, like right now I'm re-swaging some Everglades machinegun bullets. But holy cow! I think I'd just get something in 6.5 Creedmore and call it good. Then again, I do own a .220 Howell.
I don't want to reinvent the wheel. just want to have some fun seeing what it takes to do it. while stuck in the shake. I know that I can buy them all rolled.
You've got me there. It is fun.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |