Newbie, Starting the Learning Curve, Sorta

[WilliamAgain]

To All Of You Out There:

First time for me so forgive any indiscretions as I attempt to slide into this site. I make mistakes but I try to learn from each and everyone. Thanks for having me.

My handle is WilliamAgain. I am 62. I have owned hunting firearms since I was a kid. My Dad reloaded all our rifle ammunition. I used to sit and watch him as a kid. I was fascinated by the process and chance to do anything with him. As is the natural order of things, I moved on and gave up hunting for the most part, but never any of the guns that I ever owned as a kid. Dad continued to hunt until he physically could no longer do it. Dad passed two years ago. When cleaning out his shop I came upon his old reloading equipment. Many fond memories returned and I moved it to my shop, in a corner, in the way. There it sat for the last two years.

I recently purchased a 9mm pistol. First pistol I ever owned. I have been practicing with it regularly. The more I go to the range, the more I enjoy it. As you can already probably assume, I am interested in picking up where my Dad left off with his reloading equipment. Part hobby, part curiosity, part natural extension of the new pistol, part financial, and a chance to rekindle Dad and understand what it was that he loved so much about it. I think I had to get this old to figure it out. Enough history.

This stuff is old. I have the original purchase receipts from 1956. As is always the case with the internet, there is conflicting information on the equipment. In general however it appears that it is still serviceable and worth refurbishing as well as using. That's what I need help with, so I came to the experts. I need to know if this equipment is functional, reliable and safe. If it is, I want to clean it up and refurbish it, but I WANT TO DO IT RIGHT.

Attached are pics of a Hollywood Press (Senior). Dad had dies and shell holders for my old hunting guns and primer punches for large and small caliber as well a .38 special die and shell holder, even though I never knew he had a .38 special. All this is original Hollywood. I have since learned the shell holder situation is unique on this machine and ordered the shell holder adapter from RCBS and purchased dies for my 9MM. I want to take this thing apart, clean it up good, lubricate it correctly and use it again. This is where I need your help.

Attached also are pics of a Lyman Powder Measure. Lyman is obviously still out there today. This one is dirty, but appears to just need to be cleaned up. How is that done correctly? Is it a safe, reliable, functional, tool as compared to today's equipment.

And then there is this other Lyman product that looks like it has never been used. A shaper?

Lastly is the Redding scale. It is so cool and zero's out perfectly.

OK, long thread. If you made it this far, I must have some promise. Can I refurbish this equipment and if so how? I am a pretty patient guy, with some skills, I just don't want to trash anything from ignorance before I get started. Thanks in advance. Be patient, I will respond, but as we all are, I am a busy guy. I just can't let this project lie around anymore. Life is moving on with or without me.

[KenT7021]

The item you called a shaper is a Lyman 45 lube sizer.It appears to almost new.The Lyman 55 powder measure looks ready to use.Operating instructions are available on Lymans website.An internet search should find a rough setting guide that used to come with the measures.The Lyman 55 is one of the better powder measures.The Redding powder scale appears to be in good shape.It looks like it may be the oil dampening type.It should probably be checked for accuracy with scale test weights or an item of known weight.

[BigAlofPa.]

Looks to be in good shape. I see no reason why you can not use it. Please get a reloading manual and read it. Lymans 50th is a very good one to start with. You will learn a lot of valuable information. And we are here to help you along the way. And welcome on board.

[Der Gebirgsjager]

Welcome to the forum! Glad to see someone here and there taking an interest in one of the best hobbies in existence. Most of the "stuff" you've shown in your photos is still in use today by lots of folks. All good, sturdy designs that pass the test of time. It probably doesn't need any restoration, and much of it can be put right to use. The No.55 powder measure, for example, is still widely used, and is a classic. Excellent for throwing uniform loads, especially of Bullseye Powder, in small amounts for pistol cartridges. It should prove an invaluable tool for loading 9mm. I've got one on my reloading bench, and use it mainly for .38 Specials. I'm not too familiar with that model balance scale, although I have seen them, and don't know if it has magnetic dampening or not. If not, you can watch it waver up and down for what seems endlessly until it settles down and gives you the reading. That might be the one item that you could improve on with something new, but if it doesn't have magnetic dampening it's still usable. Just clean the piviot points of any dust/rust. The sizing/lubing machine may need to be cleaned out if there's some old, hardened lube in it, easily done with most solvents, and then insert a new lube stick. The Hollywood press -- what can I say. A real classic and antique, but appears to be just as functional as the day your dad bought it. Like all single stage presses it's pretty simple and straightforward. Just insert the proper shell holder in the ram, insert and adjust the proper die in the top, and off you go. You'll want to buy a set of carbide 9mm dies to avoid having to lube the cases. Get a good reloading manual or two. Many of them have a reloading instruction section that you should read before getting started. And....off you go!

[onelight]

Wow that looks like a great reloading outfit and appears to be in great shape. I bet your dad would be very pleased to know you are using his equipment.
Welcome to the forum.

[metricmonkeywrench]

Welcome to the addiction, 9mm, .38 30-30 and 30-06 are good forgiving training wheels calibers with lots of good loading data to get started with. Lyman, Lee and Hornady reloading manuals are easy to find and buy and RCBS also has a getting started video. The first chapters are a must read when getting started to understand how it all comes together and what else you will need to get.

The Lyman 45 indicates your dad may have also cast bullets as well, any moulds in the collection?

[country gent]

First buy a copy of the Lyman cast bullet handbook #4 and read thru the how to sections to refresh your memory. Clean up and lube the equipment to start with and get started. Restoration if desired can come later. Dies from that era are probably steel not carbide so cases will need to be lubed. 9mm isn't hard to load but can be "fussy" at times. Use good data and follow instructions. Test rounds in a gage or better plunk test them in the chamber. Take your time enjoy the nostalgia and get started. All the equipment shown seems to be in fine shape.
Welcome to the forum ask all the questions you need to and enjoy

[GhostHawk]

Don't feel like you have to learn it all in a day, a week, a month, or even a year.

Give it a decade, pace yourself. Set it up like any really big job. Narrow focus, pick one caliber, work on it till it works.

Bullet Fit is #1, all other variables fall into place AFTER that one.

Powder measure looks like it should work. My primary press is a lee hand press with the quick change bushings. Has been for 5 years, and I still prefer it for most work. Although I do have others setup and in use.

Scales can be calibrated. I don't totally trust electronic, at least not the cheaper ones. So it is good to have a good scale.

Start reading all the new posts once a day or so. And then start chewing through the sticky's.

Take your time, enjoy the journey, yell if you get stuck.
And WELCOME. Always good to see another cast boolit brother show up.

[kmw1954]

Welcome to the forum, you will soon find you are surrounded by enablers!

Wow, that is some nice stuff. Now all you need is an old shed and a potbelly stove with some antlers and skins and you could really retro! You inherited some real classic stuff that appears to be in excellent condition. Now get yourself a couple of recent manuals and get ready to rock. Thank you for sharing the pictures!

[Land Owner]

Alcohol is a good cleaning fluid for cutting old grease and oils. Wipe down the outsides on most of the equipment, use a little elbow grease on the others, and some light 000 steel wool for corrosion, though I see none of that in the pics.

Build a bench or take command of a table in the shop where these machines should be bolted down - giving sufficient room for each to work without interference from the others.

Download Mfg. manuals for your equipment. Most manuals are free and on line. Set up and use instructions should be read and understood.

What powder do you intend to load?
What bullet?
Got the right primers?

Got the powder or bullet Mfg's reloading manual? Much of this is on line.

Read...read...read...and ask questions. Visit YOUTUBE also.

Lyman Ideal #55 Powder Measure... http://pdf.textfiles.com/manuals/FIR...rmeasure55.pdf

Ideall #45 Lubsizer… https://www.lymanproducts.com/media/..._lubesizer.pdf

Hollywood Senior Tool (press)… I had trouble with this one, but this Castboolits poster has them ALL http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...Press-Timeline

Redding Powder and Bullet Scale...https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4bQQ1QJqqq8
I found no manual for this old scale. This YouTube link (~2 minutes in to ~8 minutes inclusive) is not so much a manual as someone working with this scale. I would not recommend using a crescent wrench nor working on the beam while it is in the cradles as the knife edges might be damaged.

[lefty o]

i absolutely agree with the others, get a few new manuals , and read them. the front part of every reloading manual tells you the how's, and why's of reloading. books will cover 85% of anything your going to run into.

[wv109323]

Your equipment is very usable. With ammo prices down ,it is hard to load 9mm and save money.
The press ,you just need clean like any metal object and add fresh lubricant on the moving parts. The powder measure I would disassemble and clean with alcohol. Do not use oil, run the pm dry.
The scales I would clean the pivot point of the beam with alcohol. You can find the exact weight of US coins to use for testing accuracy. Also jacketed bullets are very close to advertised weight.

[rbuck351]

That's all good equipment even by todays standards. Clean it up a bit and get a couple of manuals then ask about anything you don't understand. Lots of good folks here with answers to most any question about loading or casting. Good luck.

[Bent Ramrod]

Your Dad apparently took very good care of his tools. I don’t see any obvious problems with most of the Stuff pictured that would preclude setting up and using immediately. A wipe down of the Hollywood with a lightly oiled cloth and some oil on the pivots and sliding surfaces and you should be ready to set your dies and go. By all means, get a Lyman Handbook or two. There should be charts in there for approximate settings for powder charges on the 55 measure. Older Cast Bullet Handbooks will show you how to set up the Lyman 45 for boolit sizing&lubrication. Cornell Publications might have some reprints of these.

Your Lyman 45 sizer/lubricator seems to be unused, but missing the operating lever. If you can’t find that, there is a sticky on refurbishing 45s that includes making new operating levers. The H and I dies for sizing cast boolits are still available from Lyman and RCBS dies should also fit.

If your Hollywood Senior is missing the priming stakes, or even if it has them, a dedicated hand primer of the Lee or RCBS type will speed up the job.

[JBinMN]

Welcome to CB.GL Forum!


This info & links may be helpful to you:

Lyman(Ideal) 45 lubesizer instructions can be found at this CB/GL post:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...=1#post4507229

Instructions for the Lyman #55 Powder Measure:
https://www.lymanproducts.com/media/...re_english.pdf

As far as the Hollywood Senior Press... From what I understand, there is no "instruction manual" for it. The Member/moderator here, "Pressman", likely has more info for you .
Here is a link to his Member Profile & you can contact him there if you like about the press:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/memb...?5491-Pressman

You can contact him by email or PM(Private Message) there at the link above.

Here is a link to PM him( It should work for you, but if not use the link above...):
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/priv...o=newpm&u=5491

Well, Once again, Welcome!

& G'Luck! in your reloading adventures!

[Willbird]

Welcome . The Lyman 55 is honestly one of my favorite powder measures. It does have a quirk you want to be aware of. If you loosen the proper screw you can pull the whole drum out one side. Once you have it out you will see you have two slides than can be moved with the thumbscrews on one end.

The smallest slide will be used for pistol stuff and other small charges, if you are not careful you can move the middle side out for a charge then have the small slide overhanging it, sticking out past flush, that is not a good setup to run. Pretty easily avoided if you just look down into the measure.

9mm with jacketed bullets should be no issue...pretty straightforward. For many things I like the LEE reloading dies, Lee opened the market for inexpensive carbide reloading dies, carbide dies used to be very expensive from RCBS and others...Lee came into the market at something like $29 as I recall for a set of dies with the carbide sizer. I am however not fond of Lee bullet seater dies, they are quite crude IMHO .

If I were going to buy a new die set non progressive I'd buy these right here........much better bullet seater die IMHO.

RCBS Carbide 3-Die Set with Taper Crimp

My favorite loading manual is Lyman, and I'd suggest grabbing their newest.

I really like Hodgdon powders....and I like their website for data...

I'd suggest for a new reloader to stay away from powders like Titegroup and Clays for right now, could write a book on why . I'd pick a powder that comes close to filing the cartridge, and ideally the one with highest velocity and lowest pressure .

I might suggest CFE pistol as a good place to start.

Now early into the game you can form some really good habits and continue them.

Arrange your powder shelf from "fast to slow"

https://www.hodgdon.com/wp-content/u...rate-color.pdf

If you were to confuse CFE Pistol with say 4895 you would blow a rifle to smithereens...it has been done more than once by veteran reloaders.

Only have ONE open can of powder on the bench and ideally only one can of powder on the bench period, the others should be shelved .

I far prefer one of these little priming press's to doing it ON the press, or with a handheld tool.

http://rcbs.com/Products/Priming/Too...ming-Tool.aspx

I think they are a worthy investment. .

If you have a Cabelas or Basspro local they actually typically have a LOT of reloading stuff, worth dropping in. Buying 5,000 primers or 32 lbs or more of powder online will be cheaper but to get started grabbing a few primers, some powder, and a box of bullets at one of those two stores will get you going .

You have dies for 38 also you said, PERFECT excuse to buy a 357 revolver by the way , honestly revolver reloading is a less steep learning curve than semi auto IMHO.

The rifle stuff has it's own twists too, powder selection is part of the game, many will work but some are safer than others, bullet casting for rifle stuff and revolver stuff is maybe simpler than semi auto pistol stuff. The semi auto pistol stuff is not "hard" but it has some stricter demands, and 9mm especially can offer some challenges.

Bill

[15meter]

Might help if you post or list in your profile where you live. There may be a member who is nearby who could walk you through the first couple of times setting up the equipment. I have started multiple people reloading over the years. I wish I would have had the chance to watch someone use properly set up tools and an opportunity to just get the feel of using them.

Does it REALLY take that much effort to resize a 44 Mag case? But the 22 Hornet just slips in and falls out of the die--I must be doing something wrong!!!

[dverna]

If you intend to start with the 9mm, use commercial jacketed bullets. 9mm has been a challenge for some with lead bullets. If you ignore that advice and want to start with lead bullets, buy them sized to .357

Good luck and welcome.

[mdi]

Welcome to the wonderful, oft confusing and frustrating world of reloading.

For new (newer) reloaders I suggest a copy of The ABCs of Reloading. While there are others out there, the ABCs shows how to, equipment used, component explanations, and even a bit about bullet casting. Your equipment is first rate, good quality equipment (I've always wanted Hollywood press!), and a others stated above, get a good reloading manual, clean up the tools and you'll be ready to start.

A couple hints; for starting with 9mm, find a load (tried and true "classic") in your manual before you buy components, and I suggest a 124-125 gr. jacketed bullet, with a "universal" powder. Begin with book starting loads and, if necessary, work up. I use the "plunk test" for all my semi-auto handloads and start with bullet manufacturer's recommended OAL for the bullet I choose (I shoot a bunch of RMR 124 gr. JHP which are identical to Nosler's bullets so I use Nosler bullet data).

Also, my Rule #1, which I suggest to every reloader and especially new fellers is; I pay little attention (none) to any load data I see on any forum, from any range rat, gun counter clerk, good intentioned friend, pet loads website, or gun shop guru. I get 98% of my starting loads from published reloading manuals (forget the "one caliber" pamphlets as good reloading manuals have way more good info than just recipes), and just a few from powder manufacturer websites. I keep a log of every load (bullet, case, powder, powder charge [min and max], primer, OAL and crimp, and anything else that would refer to the load. In the "after shooting" notes I record best groups, shooting characteristics like recoil, muzzle blast, date shot, time of day and weather, etc.), and refer to that for subsequent loads, and I always include maximum load data.

I started reloading in '69 (with a Lee Loader) and using common sense and my Rule #1, I have had only one squib (1970) and no Kabooms or near Kabooms...

Go slow, double check everything, and most important, have fun...

[WilliamAgain]

Gentlemen:

I replied last night but apparently I erred somehow and it did not take. My computer skills are admittedly weak.

Thank for the overwhelming and positive responses. It appears that I have serviceable safe reliable equipment that is still functional today. That is great news and feedback.

There was so much feedback that I cannot possibly list all the notes here that I have taken from this thread, but know that I have an extensive list from your collective output.

I will buy a manual and begin the educational process.

I have downloaded the manuals for the equipment and I am sure those will be invaluable. I will send pics of the bench set up when I am finished.

Can't thank you all enough for the "Welcome".

And yes I am an NRA member from Norther Colorado.

Lastly a couple more pics that were requested.