Froggie, PM sent.
The Model 14 was returned from S&W. The work order was terse:
Cylinder worn
Replace cylinder (blue)
Replace hand
Replace bolt
Yesterday I tested the gun. It shoots one-inch groups at 100 yards. All is well.
Take care, Tom
Look at the fired brass, are the firing pin marks off center. When my 629 was out of time you could see it on the primers.
Normal wear was the issue. The problem showed after an especially long day of shooting. The extra crud put more than the usual drag on the cylinder. Accuracy went from great to awful in one afternoon.
IF that's the problem Brownelles has an aftermarket hand that you don't have to file the window on the gun to fit.
Nevermind, Didn't have my coffee yet.
Last edited by Mal Paso; 10-14-2018 at 10:08 AM.
Mal
Mal Paso means Bad Pass, just so you know.
I'm glad S&W came through for you.
Glad it worked for you.
[The Montana Gianni] Front sight and squeeze
Sounds like you got your moneys worth.
That is a REALLY GOOD outcome.
I don't paint bullets. I like Black Rifle Coffee. Sacred cows are always fair game. California is to the United States what Syria is to Russia and North Korea is to China/South Korea/Japan--a Hermit Kingdom detached from the real world and led by delusional maniacs, an economic and social basket case sustained by "foreign" aid so as to not lose military bases.
I'm so sorry. I meant to say "one-inch groups at 25 yards."
The gun was at S&W about 3-1/2 months. I didn't ignore you.
the only valid test to perform is ''magnaflux'ing''' the gun. it'll tell the story.if there's no microcracks, then swapping some springs-parts will get the accuracy back.
Replacing the cylinder, bolt, and hand indicate there was significant wear. With no mention of replacing the barrel it makes me think now there might have been a crack in the cylinder since the problem began from one day to the next. Without the original cylinder to inspect, not much else to do now that enjoy a great shooting revolver. Glad things worked out well.
Actually, they returned the original cylinder. Although I agree with you, I still can't find a crack.
I strongly suspect magnafluxing would find a crack in the cylinder. The original owner said he was shooting the gun, and it was shooting well. Then on one shot he felt some vibration, and it never shot well again. We think that was when the crack occurred.
I'm not going to spend the money to find the crack by magnafluxing. It's an interesting academic question, but the answer has no practical value, as I'll never repair the faulty cylinder.
Take care, Tom
Tom,
I've seen some really neat pencil holders made out of "retired" cylinders... maybe you should find a little slab of some pretty wood and make one for your desk from the cracked(?) cylinder. There wouldn't be any pressure on it and accuracy would be a moot point.
Froggie
"It aint easy being green!"
I would surmise from the parts replace, the star/ratchet on the back of the cylinder was worn, as well as both the bolt and hand that contracted the cylinder.
Disclaimer: The above is not holy writ. It is just my opinion based on my experience and knowledge. Your mileage may vary.
My first center fire revolver was a Model 14 S&W... l hope it will survive me.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |