Eastwood black chrome works
Eastwood black chrome works
The boolits are Lee 114 gr. .308. Drop at .311 Powder coat is Hi-tek Gold. One coat only. lying on their sides in a Stainless Steel screen. Will not stick to screen. Some stuck together side to side, a couple pair base to base which come apart easily leaving no sign of damage. I twisted two bullets apart that one peeled off the coating in a small narrow line one time only. My Wal-mart oven's fan blows across the screens in a fan shape. Boolits lying inside that area get more heat than those towards the sides. The color variation can be seen. The boolits all pass the Acetone/ Smash test. All go through the Barrick made sizer .3095 undamaged. Working up loads in an older Marlin 336C 30-30 using 4895 powder. Happy with results so far. Need to fine tune some loads up and down to find the better groups. A second boolit a Lee 170 FP is also being tested with 3031 powder. Have shot over a hundred rounds with no leading up to 1900 fps. and some primer flattening. Better grouping around 1800 fps. I will post more results later. Yes they all have GCs. Two pictures on the right are before heat. I did not follow the recommended procedure to the "T". I used a bit more Acetone and shook the bucket a little longer before the sound changed. It pays to stand in a good breeze to avoid breathing the fumes. I have used the Hi-Tek Gold for 9mm and .357 also and it seems to be very easy. Haven't had any failures.
My first attempt at powder coating failed, and so did my second. My boolits are not taking a coat from harbor freight red or black.
The 1st method was dry tumble in Lyman turbo with black airsoft BB's. not coat but filled my hollow points nicely
the second method was to heat boolits to 200 and shake in Tupperware. another fail.
Any ideas? Acetone help? or thinner?
" I used to think the scary part about getting older was dying. And it turns out that the scary part of getting older is young people. It's like we're the Indians and they're the white settlers. And they keep coming and they take all our resources, and all we're left with is diseased blankets."
-Pamela Adlon
I've had no problem coating bullets that have set around for a year. Keep in mind using the Lyman can take 30 to 45 minutes to coat. Never need to heat any bullets even when cool out. I use the shack and back method with black air soft BB from Smoke, my powder is also from him. I shack for maybe 30 seconds and take a peek if fine I bake if not shake a bit more. BUT if your bullets had lube on them you will need to clean them.
Lead bullets Matter
There are three kinds of men: The ones that learn by reading. The few who learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence and find out for themselves. - Will Rodgers
It is like the shiny suckers have too smooth a surface to adhere too. Or maybe I am not generating enuff static electricity. That is why iI was asking about making a liquid solution of the powder and give them a bath. Or, dip them and the coat them while moist?
" I used to think the scary part about getting older was dying. And it turns out that the scary part of getting older is young people. It's like we're the Indians and they're the white settlers. And they keep coming and they take all our resources, and all we're left with is diseased blankets."
-Pamela Adlon
lokepup HF PC is not good to work with, some can get it to work others can't.
If you have a case vibrator stick about 200-500 boolits in a ziplock toss in some HF PC, zip the bag, put that bag in another bag then run the vibrator for 5 - 10 min. your boolits should be nicely coated.
Do yourself a favor and buy some PC from smoke4320 a vendor on this site. Ask him for some of his best coating powders (you can get 3 powders in a sample pack) and get some BB's from him (not all black BB's work)
I have used several of smokes powders and they all work well. i use a cool whip container with the 5 in the triangle on bottom. Very important for creating static. i started using the black bb's , but realized it is not necessary. I shake for 30 seconds to a minute max. Signal Blue, Flame Red and White aluminum all work great.
Flydad
Once you have tasted flight, you will forever walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward, for there you have been, and there you will always long to return.”
― Leonardo da Vinci
My very first attempt at powder coating with HF Red came out acceptable to me for the price I paid for the powder. I just followed the advice from a guy on YouTube to preheat my bullets at 140 degrees (not more than 150) for only 4 minutes. Then remove from oven, drop them in a margarine container and proceed to shake and bake them. And by the way...I didn't even use any airsoft bb's.
Perhaps the slight preheating helps the powder to stick a little more consistently?
Last edited by Bulldog71; 04-04-2018 at 08:10 AM.
Well, since then I have moved on to Eastwood brand of powder coating trying various types of colors to find out what works the best as far as even coating and coverage. The samples below are : Ford Light Blue, Maroon mixed with Gloss White which gave a raspberry sherbert color, Sea Foam Green (kind of a teal) and Mirror Black mixed with the Gloss White which gave a Cookies and Cream sort of color. As you can see I got much better results without preheating or using any airsoft pellets.
Last edited by Bulldog71; 04-04-2018 at 08:10 AM.
Good looking bullet! What is the mold MFG-? Style bullet-?
I started powder coating over a year ago, using "smokes" powder and his BB's (Carolina blue).. done thousands of boolits, never have had a problem- one coat only! My tools: round Rubbermade bowls- Walmart, large tweezers- Harbor Fret. cheap convection oven, non stick trays- "Bed Bath & Beyond" keep powder in 3 layers of plastic zip lock bags to protect against humidity. "Shake & Bake method" stand on trays, bake for 10 minutes at 400 degrees--- that's 10 minutes AFTER it hits 400. Coatings 1-3K thick, size down with NOE's sizing tool. Sorry, no pictures.
Hello,
I am a member of this wonderful site, I have been following you for some years and you have been useful to solve some problems related to the world of recharge. I would like to share with you my solution to the powders that "do not work. My solution: the paint we use to coat the projectiles is electrostatic then why not use a mini tesla to" electrify "the projectiles? Then with the help of a friend fraternal self I built a mini tesla (it is also on alìexpress) and I do nothing but turn on the appliance and put on (at a distance of 2-3 centimeters the container with olives and dust !! the effect is amazing !! also because I bought this powder on english ebay but it did not work for shaking ... now with mini tesla it works too well !! Sorry, I wanted to ask a courtesy, I would like to have a collaboration with you: I wanted to know if someone is willing to buy me and send me a pack of electrostatic powder branded Eastwood or harbor freight that here in Europe is difficult to find (I found it in England Eastwood and I paid $ 47 for 8 oz !!with transport). Of course I can return the courtesy if you need some items from Italy.
https://www.ebay.it/itm/Powder-coat-...72.m2749.l2649
Last edited by bulletrifle1; 05-04-2018 at 03:42 PM.
A tesla ball to charge the boolits! Now that is awesome. And welcome to Castboolits! Do not worry about the language barrier we're a friendly group.
Now help me understand your situation. You cannot get Harbor Freight powder coat in Italy? Can you get it through their website or through Amazon?
Hello everyone:
Any more news about using a mini tesla to "electrify" the projectiles?
I am from Europe and it is very difficult to get the powder paints that you use and work ....
thanks
HF powder wouldn't stick to my boolits to save my life. I bought smokes powder and have been smooth sailing since. His blue and clear work best for tumble coating for me.
Can confirm positive results for Eastwoods Black Chrome and Ford Light Blue. Only dud was an Eastwood Black Wrinkle, it's HORRIBLE. Like it clumps up and if you try to shake off the excess powder, the lead will show in blotches because it barely adheres to the boolits surface. Not saying the powder is bad for other projects because it looks like a pretty cool matte black (plastidip) but it just doesn't work for lead boolits.
I saw this at a local store "Wholesale Outlet", There might be one near you?????
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |