Because function isn't always the only thing that matters (I prefer my projects to look clean):
While I am waiting on my final few components to arrive, does anyone want to show off their finished PID projects?
Because function isn't always the only thing that matters (I prefer my projects to look clean):
While I am waiting on my final few components to arrive, does anyone want to show off their finished PID projects?
I could but of my 4 units I have to admit they're not particularly items of beauty. But all functional. Don't forget to install the little K type panel so you can switch TC's easily when called for though you could add one later on of course. Mine differ from most in that I like that panel on the front side of unit as well as the outlet and prefer an attached power cord which is on the back side. With 4 of them I have no need to move them around!
Mike
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Life Member Iowa Firearms Coalition
US Army Vet
There are two ways to conquer and enslave a nation.
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Even "ugly" boxes can provide ideas for layout. For instance, I had already planned for the outlet to be on the face of the box and panel mounted instead of a cable so seeing how your's turned out couild reinforce that idea (or change it completely - how ugly are we talking here? )
Here's mine, made the case from an old metal, file card box. It's the tan colored box in the top, left.
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OK here's one of them and they're all on this order. Not pretty like I said and my photo skills not that wonderful either. One other thing I did on 3 of em' was put a SPDT switch in there so the outlet could be always hot or controlled by the PID. I mostly found that feature only really useful in getting a hot plate up to temperature a bit faster. In reality not that useful I guess but gave me something to do!
Mike
Benefactor Member NRA
Life Member Iowa Firearms Coalition
US Army Vet
There are two ways to conquer and enslave a nation.
One is by the sword. The other is by debt.”
John Adams 1826
Here's the last one I built which actually only ever gets used on my luber heater. Little smaller dimensions and w/o the SPDT switch and this one just has a standard 15 amp outlet on the rear side. FWIW I used a Auber PID on the 1st one I built but the last 3 all use the Rex C100 at about $34 less. Have had fine results with them and don't even miss not reading in F °. Also found I really never set the alarms on the Auber anyhow so didn't wire extra indicators on the Rex units either.
Mike
Benefactor Member NRA
Life Member Iowa Firearms Coalition
US Army Vet
There are two ways to conquer and enslave a nation.
One is by the sword. The other is by debt.”
John Adams 1826
Mike, I also fitted a PID bypass switch. My Promelt heats up quicker initially if I use this.
I think it would be useful to use a SPDT switch wired to bypass the PID and the outlet and only get the temp read out.
Last edited by Mike W1; 02-21-2018 at 11:15 PM.
Mike
Benefactor Member NRA
Life Member Iowa Firearms Coalition
US Army Vet
There are two ways to conquer and enslave a nation.
One is by the sword. The other is by debt.”
John Adams 1826
Thats easy to do.
All you need to do is run the SSR Postive feed (control side low voltage) thru the switch.
You don't need to do anything with the outlet feed or anything crazy like that.
I have yet to see a SSR fail in the closed position (making contact and providing voltage out).
Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
The rules are simple to follow.
Think I gotta go with Hatch on this, but mines already wired and probably not gonna change it/them now. My middle position OFF shuts the power to PID entirely. On the other hand if you want to just use the PID as a thermometer just unplug the load from the outlet. PID will still have it's power on to read the TC signal.
Mike
Benefactor Member NRA
Life Member Iowa Firearms Coalition
US Army Vet
There are two ways to conquer and enslave a nation.
One is by the sword. The other is by debt.”
John Adams 1826
Pressonregardless good lookin piece of equipment
Looking for an enclosure I came across a kids lunch box. I wanted two PIDs in one box. One would control the mold hotplate and other would control the bottom pour pot. Works great. Both RexC100's. In the picture I was still testing them and had not secured either into the lunchbox.
Not pretty, very functional and sure is a conversation starter.
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Thanks guys, friend of mine came up with this design. Really easy to program & maintains temperature
really well. Trying to figure out if it makes sense to start offering them for the Lee pots. Have to order
a substantial quantity of the PID unit due to the simplified program. Still kicking the idea around.
The insulated state in which nature has placed the American continent should so far avail it that no spark of war kindled in the other quarters of the globe should be wafted across the wide oceans which separate us from them." -- Thomas Jefferson
pressonregardless that is definitely a space-saving clean look.
No offense meant, but to me, it also kind of resembles a toilet
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |