Regarding the "opinions" expressed, especially from Lee Haters; most reloading presses are simple hand operated tools. None offered today are made from inferior materials, although some do differ and are made with modern materials and methods. Many of the most vocal reloaders that spend a lot of time badmouthing a particular tool are not mechanically inclined enough to operate a can opener, let alone a reloading press (basic hand tool knowledge is not present and reading instructions is too difficult. How many youtube videos show a claw hammer being used on a punch or Lee Loader?). I use many tools from different manufacturers and just like any other man made tool, some are better than others, but none really bad (I just got a seating die from Redding and it won't adjust bullet seating down enough to seat a particular bullet to the manufacturer's specs., Hornady V-Max.. So do I condemn all Redding tools?).
In an open forum you will read everything, 99.9% are opinions, "what I do" posts, just like mine...
My Anchor is holding fast!
I have been using a regular Lee classic press for 37 years now and it works as good now as the day I jot it. I count know about saving money but I sure do shoot a lot more. For years I would shoot 1 to 5 thousand rounds a week. I also use Lee scales and powder measure tried both Lyman and rcbs but still come back to the Lee. I think you would be well served with the basic Lee loading kit with press powder measure ( not the set of cups) and scale. The thing that I do not recommend is Lee trimmers or bullet sizers. Tried both and ended up with hornady trimmer and rcbs sizer. But Lee makes great products for people of all experience level. I personally prefer single stage press as I like to weigh every load. But that is a personal thing if you prefer a turrent then by all means go for it as it can be used as single stage also. Happy reloading it is a very addictive hobby.
Scrap.... because all the really pithy and emphatic four letter words were taken and we had to describe this source of casting material somehow so we added an "S" to what non casters and wives call what we collect.
Kind of hard to claim to love America while one is hating half the Americans that disagree with you. One nation indivisible requires work.
Feedback page http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...light=RogerDat
My first press was a MEC 650 super inherited from my dear uncle who left us too early. True junk but I remember uncle Paul every time I see it on the scrap iron pile! Best of luck to you...
Press 1) Forster Co-ax
2) RCBS Rockchucker or Ammomaster
3) Redding Ultra-mag
4) press cobbled up from old car jack
5) Lee
i have about 40,000 tied up in my reloading equipment....when do i start saving money?
2nd Amend./U.S. Const. - "A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed."
~~ WWG1WGA ~~
Restore the Republic!!!
For the Fudds > "Those who appease a tiger, do so in the hope that the tiger will eat them last." -Winston Churchill.
President Reagan tells it like it is: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c6MwPgPK7WQ
Phil Robertson explains the Wall: https://youtu.be/f9d1Wof7S4o
Ok, I DON'T have 40K invested in my reloading equipment but feel like I have a very good reloading room. There are 3 single stage RCBS presses of various models, 2 Dillons; a 550 and a 650 and a Ponsness Warren shot shell press, bunch of casting stuff and good accessories. The PW makes powder puff (relatively) loads for Cowboy Action that you can't buy. That doesn't save money but it gives me what I want. OTOH, if I had bought factory loads for all of the .40 S&W I've shot in USPSA matches and practice I added up that it would have cost me over $26,000 at $0.30/round in the last 10 years for that ammo. I figure .40 costs over the 10 year average 2 cents for a boolit, 4 cents for a primer and 1.5 cents for powder. Brass is only good for about 10 loadings before it cracks and I buy once fired at good prices so I'll round the price of brass up to .5 cents/loading. That's 8 cents/round for 90,000 rounds for a total of $7200. Pretty sure that pays for everything in my loading room and then some.
Sometimes life taps you on the shoulder and reminds you it's a one way street. Jim Morris
That's a solid recommendation but if I may, I'd suggest the "pro" auto disk with the round drum, I snapped the basic one twice just over tightening the screws and the price difference was pretty minimal. I still use the auto disk setup when running small batches with low-mid charge weights.
My feedback page if you feel inclined to add:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...raight-Shooter
Thanks Yall!
Nobody has ever saved a dime reloading. If you read to the contrary then they are deluded. Lol. I spent maybe 2500$ on ammo before starting reloading. Now that I reload, it will be several decades before I will be in the black again! But, it’s fun, and I can shoot a lot more, with less guilt. So, it’s worth it, but it’s NOT a fiscally prudent hobby!
People’s cost calculations are in reverse, calculating what the ammo they have already made would have cost new. This isn’t how it would really play out without a reload room.
If you want to save money, put it in the bank. If you want a rewarding hobby, and more ammo to shoot for the same money spent, your on the right track.
I'm still baffled by the way folks always want to put a value on whatever it is they are doing. Sorry but you just can't put a value on living. No one can value my time more than me. Just sitting here writing this has value to me.
Get kids interested in guns reloading or motorcycles then they'll never have any money for drugs!
One needs a single station press, a great scale, powder measure and manuals.
All are extras use it for a year or 2 you will not save money but you will shoot more.
I have been reloading since the 1960's. I now have 2 Lee classic cast single stage, 1 RCBS jr. single stage, a Reading "c" single stage, 1 Lyman Spartan turret, and 1 Dillon Square deal B in 38/357 and 9mm conversion.
For dies I prefer green RCBS as first choice but have many others.
In the early 90's through 2004-5 I reloaded none as surplus was so cheap I spent all my time shooting and had no desire to reload for NFA auto's. When the ammo dried up and Ihad sold the NFA for medical reasons reloading came into play again.
Reloading is a means to me to be able to shoot more not just to save money. If I shot once a month at a club factory ammo would do but I have my own range and shoot everyday I can therefore I reload.
Well I shoot bucket loads of 44 Mags I can reload 225 rounds for about 90/95 bucks around 0.41 cents per round, this is no target load these are are full house loads 180 gr JHP with 31 gr of H110 running over 1800 fps.
35.00 for a pound of powder
9.00 for primers
50.00 for projectiles
I Buy in bulk
Primers by the Thousand
Bullets by the Thousand
Powder by the 8lbs
a quick Search at midway the cheapest JHP Ammo I could find was 1.07 per round so rolling yer own can save quite a bit of money.
As far as a press goes if you got the cash a redding T7, if you want go progressive a Dillon 650.
FWIW I have not saved a dime reloading but I sure shoot a lot more and have been able to acquire some nice equipment to boot. If you buy good equipment you can usually get your money out of it later if you decide to get out of reloading.
Last edited by Gunners Mate; 10-11-2017 at 11:45 PM.
David was on to the answer to the cost benefit question about reloading saving money.To add to his point how much would you spend on factory ammo if you shot as much as you do reloading?
Greg B.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |