About beagling - do you put the tape on just one side of the mold or both sides? If both sides, do the tape pieces need to touch other or NOT touch each other?
About beagling - do you put the tape on just one side of the mold or both sides? If both sides, do the tape pieces need to touch other or NOT touch each other?
I only put it on one side. I found that if you add more than one layer, same side or opposite side, bullets start to get out of round too much for my liking. Thankfully it's been a while since I had to beagle a mould. M&P and NOE fixed the undersized mould problem for me. Lee moulds are getting better now compared to 10 years ago.
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Depends on how much I need.
I was not concerned if it touched each other or not.
If you only need a little, only on one side.
If you need a little more do both.
Keep as much separation from the cavity's as possible.
You do not want adhesive migrating into the cavities.
If they are not round size them. Just make sure you are sizing to the right size.
What tape do you guys use?
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I use aluminum AC duct tape.
Tiny little strips around, under and/or between the cavities
It adds about .001", .002" if you use it on both sides. The adhesive will migrate in the heat, but it won't interfere with your casting if you're careful. The boolits will be wider 90 degrees off of the seam.
Last edited by Boolseye; 06-03-2017 at 03:35 PM.
3m flue tape.
ace hardware.
it's about .002-.0025 thick.
I just add a couple coats of Hi-Tek or PC and leave the mold alone
I have a couple that were beagled they just are very small spots in different places to balance the shims out over the mold. If you go too far out-of-round and may start to fin on the boolites.
After sizing, how do the boolits mic when you measure along the mould lines compared to measuring 90* to that?
I'm wondering if sizing will re-round them or whether it just pushes the Pb down the sides and straight back towards the base? It seems as though you'd need to compress them/swage them to re-round them?
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I was always curious about this also.....I'm wondering if sizing will re-round them or whether it just pushes the Pb down the sides and straight back towards the base? It seems as though you'd need to compress them/swage them to re-round them?
I shoot so that I can handload.
The mould in question is an RCBS 140gn silhouette which casts at .265 and I use for my 6.5x55 M96 Swede.
I beagled it to throw .268 diameter bullets for my 6.5x52 M91 Carcano.
I load the .268 bullets as cast and fix the gas checks with Lok-Tite and tumble lubed them with Alox.
I would point out however, that glued on gas checks need to be seated in the case neck, otherwise they will be pulled off if they are seated below into the case body.
These bullets will produce 2.5" groups at 100m if I do my part.
So in answer to your question, slightly out of round bullets don't seem to matter in this instance.
ukrifleman
Last edited by ukrifleman; 06-04-2017 at 04:24 PM.
After messing with beagled bullets for several years and measuring literally thousands after sizing, I have reached the conclusion that most bump to the point that are almost round. We were worried about this in the beginning but consensus was they were balanced and hence shot accurately after being beagled.
I still have one .41 mould that I couldn't get to increase size without flashing. Otherwise I have been successful on all moulds that I can recall. Makes no difference...the .41 has left the range anyway./beagle
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BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |