So I got my stuff - does this sound right
Drill aluminum base for 110v 100w cartridge
Attach cord with plug - will lamp cord work?
Plug in to my router control
and kazzam I'm set???
So I got my stuff - does this sound right
Drill aluminum base for 110v 100w cartridge
Attach cord with plug - will lamp cord work?
Plug in to my router control
and kazzam I'm set???
How are you going to control it? PID? Thermostat? Light dimmer?
Check out the stickies for Star sizer heaters.
Last edited by 6bg6ga; 02-02-2017 at 07:41 AM.
Make sure the control is rated for your wattage load. Volts X Amps = watts so watts divided by volts= your amperage. Unless the router control is rated for the heater size I would purchase a dimmer control.
It's rated at 15amps so should be no problem
Was more worried about lamp cord but if it can handle a 100w bulb
it should work - don't want cut up one of my orange cords and have
some junky lamps somewhere down there.
3/4" plate should be here today
Have you mentioned the wattage of your heating element? Yes you did...100watts?
I used 400 watts for mine 1/4" diameter X 4 " long . Mounted in a aluminum plate 1/2" X 11.5"W X 9.5" It takes about 4-5 minutes to heat up in my room that is generally 60 degrees. So a rise of about 20-25 degrees in 4-5 minutes. I use a PID for control and it stays within 1-1.5 degrees.
Your lamp cord is fine. Just make sure your connections are good and connections are insulated and protected. If it were me I would make connections on a terminal strip and house the terminal strip and control in a nice box so all you see is the control sticking out.
Lots of good info in this thread. Got to say 3/4" is probably twice the thickness you needed tho'.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...47-Lube-Heater
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Some foreign made lamps are only rated for a 60 W bulb. Thus the cord is of inferior quality.
UL approved cords and lamps will have the notation on the socket or on the bottom.
Also, don't roll up the excess cord as it causes it to heat when the rated wattage is reached.
Information not shared. is wasted.
Sounds like a lot work and trouble for something that is only $50. I like my Lyman. I just need to remember to plug it in at least 30 minutes before I start to size my boolits. The cord is the wright size and the holes are already in the right spot and drilled and taped. Out of the box and bolted to my work bench with my lube sizer on it was less than 5 minutes.
"Life is tough, but it's tougher when you're stupid." John Wayne
The materials cost to copy the lyman is around $10 and takes around 30 minutes to make. I drill and tap them to take lyman, rcbs and saeco sizers and I sell them locally with a heat controller for the equivalent of $40. So yes, I can see if you cant drill holes or have 30 minutes spare time then $50 to lyman without any form of heat control must seem like a bargain.
Last edited by fred2892; 02-04-2017 at 05:51 AM.
I'm making 2 for the new LamII's sitting here - got sick of looking for deals on used ones and they were on sale at midway.
My Lyman with Lyman plate will stay 45 no more messy die changes for small runs.
Lams will be dedicated 38 and 44.
The 2 plates will come in under 30 bucks.
I think I'm done with Lyman except maybe M-dies til the get their company in order.
I got pan lubing down now and my rifles get treated to that.
Thanks for all the help
I'll let you know if I burn the house down
Fernando -- BEST wishes -- sounds like you're on the right track! I have similar, and main modification I made was to use a "keyless lamp socket" -- about one dollar at Home Depot -- in parallel with heater both as my "terminal block" and more important as an indicator that unit is ON (or off) and, by brightness of lamp -- I use a 15watt incandescent -- how much juice the heater is being fed. (For my set-up, I can see from lamp brightness EXACTLY where the knob on my controller is. I use a Variac, perhaps not too dissimilar from your router controller.)
BEST!
geo
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |