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Thread: Lubrisizer heater build??'s

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
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    Lubrisizer heater build??'s

    So I got my stuff - does this sound right
    Drill aluminum base for 110v 100w cartridge
    Attach cord with plug - will lamp cord work?
    Plug in to my router control
    and kazzam I'm set???

  2. #2
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    How are you going to control it? PID? Thermostat? Light dimmer?

  3. #3
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    Check out the stickies for Star sizer heaters.
    Last edited by 6bg6ga; 02-02-2017 at 07:41 AM.

  4. #4
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    Router control

  5. #5
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    Make sure the control is rated for your wattage load. Volts X Amps = watts so watts divided by volts= your amperage. Unless the router control is rated for the heater size I would purchase a dimmer control.

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy
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    It's rated at 15amps so should be no problem
    Was more worried about lamp cord but if it can handle a 100w bulb
    it should work - don't want cut up one of my orange cords and have
    some junky lamps somewhere down there.
    3/4" plate should be here today

  7. #7
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    Have you mentioned the wattage of your heating element? Yes you did...100watts?

    I used 400 watts for mine 1/4" diameter X 4 " long . Mounted in a aluminum plate 1/2" X 11.5"W X 9.5" It takes about 4-5 minutes to heat up in my room that is generally 60 degrees. So a rise of about 20-25 degrees in 4-5 minutes. I use a PID for control and it stays within 1-1.5 degrees.

  8. #8
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    Your lamp cord is fine. Just make sure your connections are good and connections are insulated and protected. If it were me I would make connections on a terminal strip and house the terminal strip and control in a nice box so all you see is the control sticking out.

  9. #9
    Boolit Buddy fred2892's Avatar
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    Lots of good info in this thread. Got to say 3/4" is probably twice the thickness you needed tho'.
    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...47-Lube-Heater

    Sent from my GT-P5110 using Tapatalk

  10. #10
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Some foreign made lamps are only rated for a 60 W bulb. Thus the cord is of inferior quality.
    UL approved cords and lamps will have the notation on the socket or on the bottom.
    Also, don't roll up the excess cord as it causes it to heat when the rated wattage is reached.
    Information not shared. is wasted.

  11. #11
    Boolit Buddy Doggonekid's Avatar
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    Sounds like a lot work and trouble for something that is only $50. I like my Lyman. I just need to remember to plug it in at least 30 minutes before I start to size my boolits. The cord is the wright size and the holes are already in the right spot and drilled and taped. Out of the box and bolted to my work bench with my lube sizer on it was less than 5 minutes.
    "Life is tough, but it's tougher when you're stupid." John Wayne

  12. #12
    Boolit Buddy fred2892's Avatar
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    Lubrisizer heater build??'s

    Quote Originally Posted by Doggonekid View Post
    Sounds like a lot work and trouble for something that is only $50. I like my Lyman. I just need to remember to plug it in at least 30 minutes before I start to size my boolits. The cord is the wright size and the holes are already in the right spot and drilled and taped. Out of the box and bolted to my work bench with my lube sizer on it was less than 5 minutes.
    The materials cost to copy the lyman is around $10 and takes around 30 minutes to make. I drill and tap them to take lyman, rcbs and saeco sizers and I sell them locally with a heat controller for the equivalent of $40. So yes, I can see if you cant drill holes or have 30 minutes spare time then $50 to lyman without any form of heat control must seem like a bargain.
    Last edited by fred2892; 02-04-2017 at 05:51 AM.

  13. #13
    Boolit Buddy
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    I'm making 2 for the new LamII's sitting here - got sick of looking for deals on used ones and they were on sale at midway.
    My Lyman with Lyman plate will stay 45 no more messy die changes for small runs.
    Lams will be dedicated 38 and 44.
    The 2 plates will come in under 30 bucks.
    I think I'm done with Lyman except maybe M-dies til the get their company in order.
    I got pan lubing down now and my rifles get treated to that.
    Thanks for all the help
    I'll let you know if I burn the house down

  14. #14
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    Fernando -- BEST wishes -- sounds like you're on the right track! I have similar, and main modification I made was to use a "keyless lamp socket" -- about one dollar at Home Depot -- in parallel with heater both as my "terminal block" and more important as an indicator that unit is ON (or off) and, by brightness of lamp -- I use a 15watt incandescent -- how much juice the heater is being fed. (For my set-up, I can see from lamp brightness EXACTLY where the knob on my controller is. I use a Variac, perhaps not too dissimilar from your router controller.)
    BEST!
    geo

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check