i have never seen a steel 54 maxi-ball mold
i have never seen a steel 54 maxi-ball mold
Yea, the Lyman/Ideal molds were Steel. They are hard to find as I am finding out along with the T/C Curvy and of course the Sharps Christmas Tree but that has some options.
Mickey Mouse School of Combat Graduate
I remember reading quite a bit of bad about the Lyman steel Maxi molds, that was back in my Quest to find all of the different TC molds in .54 Cal, i cant remember all of the details, but i wanna say under, or oversized driving bands? I only found complaints with the Lyman Steel Molds. I ended up finding 5 of the 6 TC Molds for .54 Cal, TC did not mark the weights on the packages, just a mold no. per Caliber stating it was a Maxi Ball, or a Maxi Hunter. I found 3 different TC Maxi Balls, and 2 different TC Maxi Hunters, each weighing substantially different, and configured differently. I know this pic of mine has been on this forum LOTS of times but i will post it again, it shows all 5 bullets from my molds, all 54 Caliber, as you can see they are all differently configured. The top 2 bullets are from my Maxi Hunter Molds, and the bottom 3 bullets are from my Maxi ball Molds. All 5 of my molds are Aluminum. Also the smaller of the 2 Maxi Hunters has a sharp pointed hollow point pin, and the bigger Maxi Hunter has a rounded hollow point pin.
Attachment 184638
My cousin in Montana has the mold for the Sharps bullet, He may loan it to you to make them if you would make some for him. I will have to ask.
and if you are interested in the partial box of 15, of the other, I have them, just pay shipping.
The rules of the range are simple at best, Should you venture in that habitat, Don't cuss a man's dog, be good to the cook, And don't mess with a cowboy's hat. ~ Baxter Black
I have seen a few different threads on here that talked about hate and discontent with Lyman Steel molds, and their customer service SUCKING at best. I know i read enough, and have been warned by 2 friends to stay away from their molds that i have done just that, being MUCH better off spending a little extra and ordering a mold from Accurate, or NOE. I do not own a Lyman mold, nor have i ever, so i am not speaking from personal experience
Lyman quality seems to be slipping allot the past few years. Undersized moulds are common which comes from using their mould cherry too long after it has worn down thus cutting undersized mould. This basiclally makes for casters having too small of bullets. You would think when they see their bussiness sales slipping, they would try to do something about it.
Aim small, miss small!
From my 54 the Thompson mold casts are bit more accurate than the Lyman. But when adding a Ox Yoke button wad under their maxi's. Both Maxi's then target equally well.
Powder charging.
54 likes a heavy charging. I found what ever I shot out of mine required 90 to 100 by volume FFG to see the conical balls ultimate accuracy.
Haven't shot a Maxi in years at a deer. Just to much lead weight and overwhelming shock for a thin skinned animal. 230 gr P-Rd ball is> just right.
To me a picture is worth a thousand words. Rather than try to explain it, I dusted off some molds and took pictures. I believe all except the steel lyman were purchased at Friendship Indiana, it was 20 years ago when I bought them so I just cannot say for sure other than I am certain all of the aluminum molds came from a vendor at Friendship.
I have never had good luck with the Maxi style molds out of my T/C's either in 50 or 54 caliber with a 1 in 48 twist. The best groups were with a shorter bullet design like the buffalo bullets or the lightest Lee REAL per caliber size (See the 54 renegade HotRod Thread started by triggerhappy243). I believe this is why the Green Mountain 1 in 28 barrels are so desirable.
To the author of this thread Cag40Navy...PM me if something is of interest to you.
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I nearly bought a Steel Lyman mold for my 357 (i cant remember the mold no.?) anyway, a good friend who owns a TON of molds talked me out of it, told me i would be MUCH better off spending a little extra on an Accurate, or NOE mold. If irc Idahoron had a bad experience with a Lyman mold along with their customer service. Not worth the risk to me, id much rather risk a 20 dollar Lee mold than a 80 dollar Lyman
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Last edited by Cag40Navy; 01-08-2017 at 04:56 PM. Reason: Better understanding now.
Mickey Mouse School of Combat Graduate
Lyman moulds are good or are when they are cut right but when you can't count on getting a good one, you naturally look else where. I have some too and they are good but they are older ones. I'd buy an older one no problem but new ones, I'd probably pass unless I didn't have other options.
Aim small, miss small!
I am definately not a Lyman Hater by any means, I have their 57SML peeps and 17 Globes on 5 different rifles, do the math and that equals a fair amount of change ($600.00 or better just in sights) I have heard plenty enough about their piss poor customer service to detour me from buying their molds, I understand when you get a good one they are great molds, but if you get one with an issue you are likely SOL, which is REALLY a bummer!! Good customer service means a TON to me! To many other outfits that will take care of ya if there's a legitimate problem
Moose moulds makes a copy of the sharps Christmas tree mold and they are on line
moose also makes the sharps http://moosemoulds.wixsite.com/mm2013/sharpsxmas
Awesome. I will look into them! Ill still keep my eyes out for the Lyman version but this should be good as well! They do steel molds?
Mickey Mouse School of Combat Graduate
You'd be wise to determine the land to land(bore size) and groove to groove dimensions of your rifle before you try either style bullet. Both are intended for rifles with a .54 bore. The maxi is oversized at the top band to engrave into
the rifling with the lower portion undersized to bump up at ignition and obviously is intended for muzzle loading. The xmas tree is tapered the opposite way because it's loaded from the breech.The .557 is the widest part of the bullet, intended to fill the grooves. In either case, the bullet may be too big for your bore. Some Sharps are .54 bore size which would be fine, but others are not. My 1863 Pedersoli Sharps has a .520 bore and .540 groove barrel. I shoot a
Moose .544 xmas tree sized to .542. I believe Shiloh percussion rifles have a .53 bore and shallower rifling than the Pedersoli which gives them a groove to groove size of around .540. Bottom line is you need a bullet that is .001-.002
OVER groove size.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |