Will those that KNOW and HAVE DONE IT please post............are there any poofs, spurts, eruptions, stinks, or other hazards?? Please detail your alloy formula quantities and safe methods. Enquiring minds could use the info, TYVM.
Will those that KNOW and HAVE DONE IT please post............are there any poofs, spurts, eruptions, stinks, or other hazards?? Please detail your alloy formula quantities and safe methods. Enquiring minds could use the info, TYVM.
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Retired from Instructing, and just about everything else!
What I have learned.
Start in a wide shallow pot, I use about 1 inch of molten lead.
Then gently sprinkle about 3/8" og CS across the top, WAIT until it has turned pure white ( no blue) before trying to stir.
AS I said WAIT until the blue is gone, the blue is moisture. I run my temps up pretty high, 8- 850, not sure on that part.
I then pour them into the small ingots that can be added to the pot, kinda like adding tin.
I personally believe that it helps create a more malitable bullet, some may disagree.
I like that it did not fragment in the least.
Hope that helps.
pennies are zinc and copper plated!
An armed man in a citizen.
An unarmed man is a subject.
A disarmed man is a slave.
I almost did that once, glad I noticed it was grainy, and I don't think copper is, so do not use it for an alloy, I have gotten a small amount of very,very fine copper wire to mix with a torch, getting it as hot as possible and dipping/swirling the wire into the lead. I got some dissolved, about an inch, but it wasn't near enough to tell.sometime in the next week or so, I am thinking of doing some smelting, and while I am doing that, hook my stick welder up, the ground to the pot (half a propane tank) then clamp a thick copper wire( 1/8 ) into the ***. and stirring it in as it melts and sparks and whatnot. will be wearing protection...lol glasses,gloves, jeans, and being ready to run! just kidding. if anyone thinks this is a horrible idea, let me know. doubt it will stop me. but I do want to hear you opinions, either way. I do value them. Travis
An armed man in a citizen.
An unarmed man is a subject.
A disarmed man is a slave.
oh is that not a penny in that pic? and myflatline, I like your idea better, but I would like to see a measurement result, have you thought of having some tested, it only cost 1lb of lead.?..
An armed man in a citizen.
An unarmed man is a subject.
A disarmed man is a slave.
you need zinc in the mix for the copper to trade out with when using the sulphide method.
the other way you need tin in the mix to help the copper absorb.
about 3 times as much tin as copper.
what about what I mentioned? even set low a welder will get the copper more than hot enough, and if I used a couple pounds of very high tin alloy do you think it would work, I think it would at least have a fair chance, I see no reason why it wouldn't, but if you know something I don't...
An armed man in a citizen.
An unarmed man is a subject.
A disarmed man is a slave.
I don't know about the electrode.
if I were to try it I would clean the rod real well and tin it.
don't touch the sides of the pot,,,,,,,, oh my god.
I got small nips of speaker wire into solution, but heard of others getting some small amounts of copper plate to go in that way.[tinning and dunking and swishing around slowly]
I just did what was easiest for me. After reading all the endless threads of the members here on the subject. I started with 15 lbs of 45acp indoor range scrap that still had the copper jackets. Melted it down added approximately 5 lbs of acid core solder that came from the flea market that the labels were gone and didn't know the content. Kept it hot for a while trying to tin the copper, then added about 2 lbs of zinc wheel weights. Then started adding my copper sulfate slowly about 1/2 inch layer each time. Staying out of the fumes and doing this far away from everything, because of one of the more knowledgeable members statement of the fumes being potentially deadly. 3 or 4 layers is all I was able to get in before I started to notice resistance from the mixing so I stopped adding sulphate and cleaned out all the ash until I had a clean mix. Then while keeping the mixture stirred up well, I spoon filled mini muffin tins. One of the members, R5R, made a statement that lead me to believe mixture was unstable and could seperate, like oil and water, so I made sure to keep stirring while making my mini muffins for consistency. I use 1 muffin for 20lb pot of coww's and 2 for anything softer like 50/50. While my babbit will be hard to duplicate and not very scientific, it did get me in the ballgame. I don't use it in every pot but wow, what a difference when I do.
copper is a weird duck in a lead alloy.
it generally needs tin to get into the alloy, but it hangs onto the antimony once it's in there.
some is good more is worse.
.3% works well and casts nicely.
.5% works better [in the alloy] buts casts like,, well,,, like your trying to make tin foil with your spout.
heat it up and you oxidize out your tin turn it down and you freeze the spout.
finding the balance that helps and still casts well is generally in the .25-.30% range.
Pure will only take 0.3% Cu (by weight) - as a solid! Add that % of Zn or Sn to pure and add Zepp until it won't absorb anymore. I usually do this ~ 750-800F. After the fluffy dross powder is removed ( I wear a cheap paper paint mask while doing this), stir & cook for 1/2 hr. - then into ingots. If you have Sb in the alloy, it will take more Cu. I've gone to 2% Cu, 0% Sn, 3-4% Sb and it works great but really HARD boolits - left dents in a bar of superhard from roto.
Control the % Sn or Zn for the SOLID alloy and you control the Cu. Cu is replaced 1:1 on an atomic basis.
Last edited by popper; 01-06-2017 at 01:56 PM.
Whatever!
when you are welding, what is the end of the stick sitting in, a puddle of molten metal, so I don't see the difference, im not talking about a electric pot, but a small pot of tin rich lead taken off the burner and away from itt then hooking it up.
An armed man in a citizen.
An unarmed man is a subject.
A disarmed man is a slave.
just a thought, im not sure ccopper would add enough positive elements such as strength or malleability to be worth it. that did remind me that I need propane to smelt some co's and mix some alloy
An armed man in a citizen.
An unarmed man is a subject.
A disarmed man is a slave.
I have followed Popper on several over threads about this very subject and have found his insights into this subject to be right on! Using his advise I have made Cu alloy that has produced beautiful and well filled out boolits. I have pounded some flat on an anvil without them shattering or cracking on the edges. That makes me believe that they won't shatter on impact with bone. It is my favorite handgun alloy in 44 mag, 45 colt, and 480 Ruger.
Popper did some very good research when this got brought up again a couple of years back and does have a good handle on the subject.
we do have a sticky on the subject, it was the offshoot of another thread that has been buried in time now but should be found with a search, Badger EDD was the O.P. airc.
where do you get copper sulfate? is it a soil amendment??
An armed man in a citizen.
An unarmed man is a subject.
A disarmed man is a slave.
Zepp root killer. Finally getting to the bottom of my can, after several years. ~$12.
Whatever!
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |