Motor Mica, or just regular Mica is something that many folks use instead of Graphite for an inside case neck lube. You remember powdered graphite that was intended for use in locks. Motor Mica works about the same, only its white and a whole lot less messy when compared to black graphite. Motor Mica also tends to be more expensive than Graphite when it's marketed to reloaders for some odd reason.
It used to be quite popular to pour a little bird shot in a pill bottle, and then add either graphite or Motor Mica into the bottle. You then dip your cases mouth first into the bottle to get a dry film lube inside of the case necks. Unlike oily case lubes, you can easily wipe off the Graphite or Motor Mica off (or just leave it on) and not worry about it contaminating the powder or the primer.
Many folks have talked about using Talcum powder, Graphite, and Motor Mica here on Cast Boolits as a way to reduce the sticky-ness of Alox based tumble lubes.
Most of us will not encounter Mica all that often, as it's somewhat expensive, and less likely to be had around the house... Though it is used often as a base for many types of makeup.
You can get Motor Mica from most of the usual sources: like Midway, and Amazon just to name two. There are lots of pre-packaged brand names for Motor Mica as well. Lyman, RCBS, and Frankford Arsenal sell small containers of Motor Mica intended for reloading use.
You can even find somewhat larger quantities of Mica from BPI, marketed as Mica Wad Slick, intended for lubing shotgun wads, and hull bases.
http://www.ballisticproducts.com/Mic...ductinfo/MICA/
Mica Wad Slick (8 oz)
Creates a dry film on wads, which allows for easier, less resistant loading, reduced friction, and increased velocities. Simply put about a teaspoon of Mica Wad Slick in a bag with wads and lightly shake. That is all there is to it.
Our laboratory uses Mica Wad Slick on all of our high performance lead, steel, ITX Shot, and Hevi-Shot loads. When loads are tightly compacted, Mica sure makes them go together much easier. (8oz container)
- Allows for easier loading
- Reduces friction between wad and hull and bore
- Increases velocity
Do not substitute other lubricants in your loads: The wrong lubricant can contaminate powder - either raising or lowering pressures.
Curmudgeon's Loading Tips:
Resizing high-brass hulls: If you are experience resistance when resizing high-brass hulls, try just a little bit of Mica Wad Slick on the brass, die, or resizing area of your reloader. A little dry lube goes a long way toward saving reloading sanity. Also, the MEC Super Sizer works very for all high brass hulls. It is an essential tool to achieve consistent reloading results.
You would think it was made out of gold, as much as they charge for such tiny amounts of Motor Mica.
If you don't mind a little graphite getting on your fingers and clothes, they often mix Graphite and Motor Mica together for use as a seed flowing lubricant.
(Which can often be found in bulk at Tractor Supply stores)
Anyhow, you use Motor Mica much like you would use Talcum or Baby Powder. Sprinkle some on boolits to make them drier, and not so sticky. I sprinkle a little Motor Mica over my boolits in a round clean plastic food container, and then lightly agitate them.
I end up with cast boolits that are dusted with a small amount of fine white powder, that I can handle and load immediately afterwards.
I haven't noticed any differences, either better or worse after shooting lubed boolits dusted with Motor Mica vs non dusted ones. I don't do this to all my cast boolits though, only when I'm in a rush for some particular reason. I've also used it with small amounts of snake shot for pistol shot loads so it doesn't clump up as much.
I use Motor Mica much more often as an inside case neck lubricant, rather than a tumble lube boolit dusting powder.
Hope that helps some.
- Bullwolf