If the lids on the bucket will it coat better?
If the lids on the bucket will it coat better?
no......
Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor.
Australia
Marky, given that you only did it for 12 mins (I find 10 to be more than adequate) my first thought is that they're way overcooked, so your temp. is a bit suspect. This stuff is, within reason, fairly forgiving. As long as the temp is right then I've found there can be a bit of leeway with time (I haven't really noticed any difference in results whether using 10 mins or 12 mins) BUT the first coating is critical, it needs to be on the thin side.
I smelt burning electrical sheathing too
I, like many have had the same problem. Inaccurate temperature gauge on small ovens. Like Trevor said, buy or borrow an oven thermometer BUT don't hang it from the front (the small convection ovens run a little colder at the door) put it in the center of the center rack. Note the oven reading when the thermometer reads between 385 - 400 degrees. [mine has a dial so I just marked it] Cool it and test it several times to make sure your right on. IF you have a dial , check it before each use (I know this from experience, things get bumped / moved and end up looking like yours ). 9 to 12 min at the correct temperature didn't affect the color for me.
"If the lids on the bucket will it coat better?" the little buggers are jumping out on you eh? Don't swirl them so fast or get a taller bucket (mine have 6 inch sides and I only get an occasional escape.
"BUT the first coating is critical, it needs to be on the thin side." I use 1 mill less coating on the first run and it's been working for me.
the lumpy coating is from swirling / shaking to long . The sound starts to change -- dump them. The bottom of the bucket starts to dry -- dump them. It is better to dump them early while still a little wet than late and have them lumpy.
I haven't been too particular about the color on mine; until Joe comes up with a nice Auburn orange and blue to annoy the Alabama fans with; so I'm probably not the one to make comments on how to get the color right. Color has very little to do with the performance of the lubricant. I have found that even fairly expensive convection ovens $100-$200 range can be off as much as 50 degrees on the dial. That's Fahrenheit for all you down under guys. It seems that they were built for something other than cooking bullets and the chef really don't care???? Anyway a good in the oven thermometer will correct this. I used a cheap turkey fryer one for a year and it helped. I got talked into adding a PID to my oven which wasn't a bad idea and not very costly. But a PID and oven thermometer measure only one spot in the oven. Still use both. Even with convection temps can vary at different places in the oven. You could probably spend enough money to correct this. But I'm a very thrifty person. Some say cheap. Trevor's idea of pulling out the tray after six minutes shaking and possibly turning it around putting back in the oven for the rest of the twelve minutes is a good solution for helping control color. I've never used it but it makes sense.
If you are starting out suggest you use open tumble and try to hear the sound change. I have hearing loss and really can't hear the change. I would also add a little extra acetone or MEK which ever you are using to help keep the lumps down. I use a closed tumble bowl. It will help by giving you more time to tumble. And yes it does keep those little buggers from hopping out all over the place. It can help eliminate a rough finish because the acetone cannot flash off so quick. But it will create another problem if you tumble too long and put too thick first coat on. Which will cause flaking on smash test. I always mix a little thinner and dump them wet.
Bottom line is when you start out follow the instructions given with the mix, and your best listening to the folks that have done it the most Ausglock (Trevor), Joe and probably the guy selling you the mix. I buy from Donnie in Louisiana. They are all more than happy to help. I know because I've had to ask them to help me. Helping you is servicing a customer. Make sure of your oven's temperature. Because we are all working with different equipment and under different conditions adjust things and play around with your process after that. Load em up and shoot them cause that's not only how you can judge their performance but it's where the most fun is.
Some have not had the same experience in all calibers with the coating as I have had but thanks to you guys I've got 1-1 1/2 groups at 100 yards with a bullet I cast and coat myself. I don't need no store bought bullet. Woops! my cheap is showing again.
Last edited by Avenger442; 12-04-2016 at 04:18 PM. Reason: additional information
While I work at it, it is by God's grace that it happens. So it is best I ask him what, how and when before I start..
I use both MEK and Acetone.
Mek is used as is for coating.
In Summer, I use 80mls of Acetone and 20 mls of denatured Alcohol to 20gms of powder. this slows down the flashoff and give extra swirling time to give a better coating.
Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor.
Australia
Thanks for the replays guys
sorry
is this more like the correct shade of ZG?
They're sat on the acetone test cloth which they passed,but there was a bit of flakiness from the hammer test.The coating would not scratch off with a fingernail so I'll 'pop some caps' and report back.
MARK
How many are you doing as 1 batch??
That is too dark and too much flaking.
The colour on the 12Ga slugs is Kryptonite green.
Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor.
Australia
Looks to me like they're way overcooked.
To those have expressed interest in the new Black K15. Shipment has cleared US Customs and is due to arrive to me on the 12th of Dec.
It will be added to the website a couple of days before it arrives to me.
Does the K15 Black have any Metallics in it for higher pressure/velocity loading?
see post #7808 in this thread
BABore,
No the Black K-15 has no Metallics. The Black coating, that contain Metallics, is the Texas Tea.
I have not had a request to include any Metallics into the K-15 as yet.
But I can produce such a version if demand is there.
May be it is the next project,,,,,,, as time permits.
Hi-Tek
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |