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Thread: Swedish Rolling Block

  1. #1
    Boolit Bub
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    Swedish Rolling Block

    Hey guys.

    It's been a while, I have not gotten much done on my springfield trapdoor, hence no posting in that topic. Have been making some arrangements for a chamber iron for it, so that will be good.

    My current question relates to the strength and quality of the Swedish Rolling Block rifles, particularly in 8x56R Danish.

    I have opportunity to get one of these, it would go nicely in my Old West theme, though it's not actually made in the US of course. My understanding is that these were made under licence from Remington in local calibres.

    My searching indicates the 8x56R has similar ballistics to a 30-30...though I am not 100% sure. I also found that some regard the Swedish Rolling Blocks as some of the best ever made.

    So, if you know anything or even better, own one, I would love to hear from you. Or if you know anything about the round (8x56R) I would also be grateful to hear from you. Will it take holy black? I imagine so.

    Would you chose one of these over a Martini Henry in 577-450? One of those is for sale too, listed as good, dark bore but still defined rifling. The Swede is listed as very good.

    Cheerio

    Ozz

  2. #2
    Boolit Master marlinman93's Avatar
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    The Swede Rolling Blocks are a very well made smokeless action when found in the 8x56R caliber. The cartridge is much more potent than the .30-30, although I'm not sure I'd fire some of the factory loaded ammo in a Rolling Block, as it can be fairly hot in some loads. It's closer to a .30-40 Krag in velocity, and the Krag makes an acceptable donor brass to reform and use in the Danish Roller. Slightly smaller rim size, but they usually extract fine if you don't have any case sticking issues.
    It will make a great cast bullet gun, once you get the right bullet around 200 grains, and proper diameter for your bore.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master




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    Bought one for the action used in the pics. Shot it in the original configuration for a couple years before rebarreling & restocking to 40-65.
    It shot very well with smokeless and cast. I tried BP but fouling was horrendous. My brass was from Buffalo Arms made from 45-70 and with BP it held a tremendous amount of powder. The boolit I used was the LEE special 32 cal Maximum, I believe. It was a custom mold and dropped around 329 and I resized to 325.
    Depending on price I sure wouldn't shy away from one. BTW the Martini Henry rifles are fun as well.

    Bob
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 71' Rolling Block 004.jpg   71' Rolling Block 001.jpg   71' Rolling Block 002.jpg  
    GUNFIRE! The sound of Freedom!

  4. #4
    Boolit Buddy waarp8nt's Avatar
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    I bought two of the Swede Rifles and they were in 8x58R Danish. From my understanding the 8x56R Hungarian can be used as a parent case to form the 8x58R Danish. I am currently in the reading up stage of the process and have yet to reload for it. Maybe some were chambered in 8x56R too, but the centerfire Swede Rolling Blocks I have seen were 8x58R Danish or 12.7x44.

    I plan to use the Maximum mold from Midsouth Shooters Supply and the 8x56R Hungarian brass from Graf and Sons as a parent case to form the 8x58R Danish. CH4D sells dies that are less costly than RCBS, plus CH4D will make any extra "M" style expander die for use with cast boolits for a minimal cost.

    Again...I have yet to reload, but this is what some internet searching has lead me to believe and its they way I want to go, unless someone smarter than me chimes in with some words of wisdom.
    Boolits Feedback <> Gunbroker Feedback

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    Bluegrass...the speed metal of country music!

  5. #5
    Boolit Bub
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    Thanks guys-just a quick post I am heading out shortly.

    Pleased to hear info on the gun and cartridge.

    The one I am looking at is $795, bear in mind things in Australia are generally more expensive than the US, across the board not just guns.

    Here is a picture:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    According to seller the Swedish military cut the fore stocks around 1900 so as to sell them as sporters, seller tells me barrel approx 32 inches (or maybe 34 he said). I would be keen to get an original fore end. He tells me they have not fired much if at all.

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy waarp8nt's Avatar
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    Here in the U.S. the selling price for the sporters in 75% to 90% condition range from $300 to $400 dollars and those that still have the military forearm are $400 to $500 in similar condition. Near perfect rifles can go higher depending on condition and how complete. Barrels are typically 30 to 33 inches, but can vary length a little longer or shorter.

    Here are two of the better sites on the rifles. They explore loads, case forming and more. This forum has a wealth of knowledge on the subject, I have spend a few rainy afternoons searching it.

    http://dutchman.rebooty.com/rb.html

    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...n-a-Swedish-RB
    Boolits Feedback <> Gunbroker Feedback

    Just remember son, many times free advise is worth what you pay for it. ~ My Dad

    Bluegrass...the speed metal of country music!

  7. #7
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    Boz330,

    Now that is a downright PURTY stock. That's got about as many stripes as an average tiger.

    yours, tex

  8. #8
    Boolit Master enfield's Avatar
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    I get by fine with 8x56 Hungarian brass, 4759 powder ( 17 - 19 grains is a nice shooting load ) and the Lee .329 mould (for cheap ) or a nice NOE .326 215 gr PB mould . A set of decent sites and your all set.

    hey, watch where ya point that thing!

  9. #9
    Boolit Master




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    Quote Originally Posted by enfield View Post
    I get by fine with 8x56 Hungarian brass, 4759 powder ( 17 - 19 grains is a nice shooting load ) and the Lee .329 mould (for cheap ) or a nice NOE .326 215 gr PB mould . A set of decent sites and your all set.
    That is the powder that gave me the best results, 18 gr would give 2 minute groups all day and pleasant to shoot as well. I don't remember the velocity though.


    Bob
    GUNFIRE! The sound of Freedom!

  10. #10
    Boolit Master




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    Quote Originally Posted by texasnative46 View Post
    Boz330,

    Now that is a downright PURTY stock. That's got about as many stripes as an average tiger.

    yours, tex

    That came from Treebone and the guy really took care of me on that one. I was very pleased!.

    Bob
    GUNFIRE! The sound of Freedom!

  11. #11
    Boolit Master marlinman93's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boz330 View Post
    That came from Treebone and the guy really took care of me on that one. I was very pleased!.

    Bob
    George loves Rolling Blocks, and seems to keep his best wood for RB projects.

  12. #12
    Boolit Bub
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    Thanks again guys for the helpful tips, sounds like reloading is well within the reach of the average loader.

    Quick question, based on the photo I posted, would you pick the top one or bottom one? I'm thinking top due to all screws present, sling swivel and ladder sight.

    Thanks
    Ozz

  13. #13
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I would pick the one with the best bore. I have one and Boz set me up with his brass and mold. I have reformed a few 45-70 just to do it also and it works fine but is a little short in the neck. 45-90 would be better but the price is high on the brass. Buffalo Arms usually has reformed brass and dies ready to go. I reform the brass with the full length die.
    I use 12grs of Unique with the Lyman 160gr Loverin RN GC and it is very accurate for a plinking load. I use 22grs of SR4759 with the Lee Maximum at 235grs for a hunting load and it groups about 2" to 3" at 100yards and about the same at 200 yards. I do have a tang sight on it.
    If you look on the right side of the barrel just in front of the action you might see the date the conversion from black powder rimfire of about 43 caliber to the 8mm Danish. From what I have read the action was heat treated and the blocks were replaced.
    Be aware of the differences in the 8X58RD for the Krag and the RB. Dutchman's page has good info on this. If you find and Article by Bob Shell DO NOT load like he did! He ended up having the action sidewalls bowing out on him.
    If the action of the blocks let loose they tend to end up in a place that is very bad for the shooter.
    Mine is one of the guns I really like to shoot, even took it for antelope but did not get a shot. May try it for elk also this year.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master marlinman93's Avatar
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    I would agree with "leadman" on picking the best bore. The sling swivel doesn't matter to me, and the screw is easy to replace. If the bores are equal, and prices equal, then choose the best condition.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master Drm50's Avatar
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    Some time ago I bought several guns off a estate. There was a Rolling Block carbine in 8mm?
    Was not Remington made, reciever was nickeled with Anchor & Rope stamping. One guy said
    it was a Naval Cadet rifle from Norway.??? Brought a good buck at auction, never had ammo
    for it.

  16. #16
    Boolit Master
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    Ione but bought it for the action. it was supposed to be action only but when it got here it had the barrel still on it. Thougt about using it but bore was very bad action was great made it into a .50-70 great rifle lots of fun.

  17. #17
    Boolit Master

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  18. #18
    Boolit Master
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    Thanks for listing the link, Dutchman! That was GOOD information!

    -Tom

  19. #19
    Boolit Bub
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    My Swedish roller in 50-70 Govt
    "I said I never had much use for one, never said I didn't know how to use it". ~ Matthew Quigley

  20. #20
    Boolit Master enfield's Avatar
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    Smile Swedish Rolling Block

    Did somebody say Sweden Click image for larger version. 

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    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails schumi & stuff 003.jpg  

    hey, watch where ya point that thing!

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check