What do I need to do to my Lee mold before I start casting? This is my first time trying to cast and I need Help.
What do I need to do to my Lee mold before I start casting? This is my first time trying to cast and I need Help.
grab an old toothbrush and scrub it with hot soapy water to remove the factory residue. Check the sprue plate to make sure it is flush and swings free with light thumb pressure; also make sure it is flat not warped. If you are bored you can use a q-tip to find any remaining metal burrs in the cavities, but I just started casting with it. They seem to take 10-20 casts (for me) to break in properly before the lead starts flowing right. The 2 cavity ones are a bit more finicky, I still have all my 6 cavity molds.
Ladle pour or bottom pour?
Calamity Jake
NRA Life Member
SASS 15704
Shoot straight, keepem in the ten ring.
Right now I might just ladle pour. I have a old lead pot and ladle my grand dad used for plumbing.
Sent from my VS876 using Tapatalk
http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_Contents.htm
This is a great read if you have the time, tells you everything starting with a lead ingot.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |