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Thread: Mixing Lead & WW

  1. #1
    Boolit Bub Wandering Man's Avatar
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    Mixing Lead & WW

    I bought a new set of tires for my truck today, and as part of the deal, asked for WWs.

    I came back with maybe 15 pounds of ww's, and about 1/2 of those are the stick - on kind (no Zn marks, and they pass the fingernail scratch test).

    As I understand it, these are likely close to 100% lead. Is that right?

    So I'm looking for recommendations:

    1) Smelt it in with the WW's.

    or

    2) Melt it separately as pure lead.

    What would you guys do?

    WM
    Never Argue With Drunks or Crazy People

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master
    454PB's Avatar
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    I keep them separate. You can always mix them with something else latter, but it's hard to unring a bell.
    You cannot discover new oceans unless you have the courage to lose sight of the shore

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
    HeavyMetal's Avatar
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    I have always treated stick on's as pure lead.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master

    GP100man's Avatar
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    when castin plinkers for my GPs i mix the stik ons 50/50 & get a boolit around 9to 11 bhn ,i push em to about 1000 fps when loobed with Glenn`s carnauba red no problems .


    GP100man

  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy
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    I save my pure lead and smelt/pour it separately. I use the Lee 1-pound ingot mould for pure lead (Lyman for WW lead, Lee 1/2 pound ingot mould for linotype).

    I'll add some tin and then cast 148 gr wadcutters from the pure lead, water quench them, tumble-lube and size them, and they make great, accurate .38 special boolits.

    Jeff

  6. #6
    Boolit Bub Wandering Man's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 454PB View Post
    I keep them separate. You can always mix them with something else latter, but it's hard to unring a bell.
    Very convincing.

    Thanks guys.

    I'm still having a difficult time coming up with bar solder.

    -WM
    Never Argue With Drunks or Crazy People

  7. #7
    Boolit Master

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    I order mine from Tru-Value Hardware. About 10$ a stick. Lasts a while.
    They have a book you can order from.

  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy calsite's Avatar
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    unless you only plan to use them in a low velocity pistol I'd recommend keeping them separate, that way you know exactly where you are at if you make some alloy.

  9. #9
    Boolit Bub Wandering Man's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by calsite View Post
    unless you only plan to use them in a low velocity pistol I'd recommend keeping them separate, that way you know exactly where you are at if you make some alloy.
    For now, all my casting will be .358 for CAS.

    I may eventually buy another mould and try some .45 ACPs.

    WM
    Never Argue With Drunks or Crazy People

  10. #10
    Banned

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    i would melt them separately.
    then for your cas loads mix them with a bit o tin and shoot away.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check