The title says it. Has anyone here had any experience working pecan into a stock or with a gun already stocked with this wood?
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The title says it. Has anyone here had any experience working pecan into a stock or with a gun already stocked with this wood?
S&W used to use pecan for revolver stocks in the 1970s. Blonde with dark streaks. Ring porous satructure, with hardness is comparable to hickory. Technical data:
http://ir.library.oregonstate.edu/xm...6CC?sequence=1
I never had a rifle stock made from it, but I can't see any reason why it would not be both serviceable and attractive if a suitable blank of good quality could be found.
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Here in Ga. we have a lot of pecan trees, and every time a big blow comes through, there'll be big limbs downed from them. I think the only problem I might expect from it is splitting. That can usually be dealt with, and rifle stocks aren't usually subjected to the same kind of stresses that growing limbs are during a big blow, so it might well serve. And if for some reason it should split, at least you'd have some fine wood to make chips with to BBQ your meat. Works really great that way even if it fails as a stock. I have read of its being used in the past, but memory prevents me from recalling any details.
I think if it were me, I'd try really hard to impregnate it with some sort of oil that'll dry over time, and solidify and strengthen it, and maybe "glue" it all together internally. That'd take a good soaking in some good, warm oil, I think? Sure smells good, and there ain't NOTHIN' like a good pecan pie!
ive never worked it, but i used to deer hunt with a guy that had a tikka with factory pecan wood stock. so its been done.
I always heard from the old timers that it tended to dull your saw blades quicker than some other hardwoods.
I was wondering the same thing about pecan, also I have some very pretty English chestnut slabs I'd love to make grips for my Blackhawks from. Very pretty, very hard.
does it split easy? i made a muzzleloader stock out of really nice oak. looked very nice but every time i shot it a splinter would pop off some wheres. finally i took it apart and threw it away. i used a very very strong local hard wood that they used for oxen yokes. never even got that one put together as in carveing it, it split in two with a ping. now i stick with cherry or maple. walnut can even split. hard rock maple and cherry takes anything. beech is also very very strong with out spliting. it shrinks alot so you have to watch that. their is reason you dont see some woods in gunstocks as they have to take vibration and harmonics. cherry, maple and beech can. walnut is pretty but not as good as the other three. their are cherry levels around here over 100 years old at ranch sales that are straight as the day they were made. cherry never lets you down.
I've only had a very limited experience with Pecan and that was in matching some cabinets when I had my custom woodworking/millwork shop. I was able to locate some boards to make some raised panel doors to match. Yes, it was hard on the tooling and seemed to burn easy. Over the years, I've seen several custom stocks made out of it. An elderly friend had a 30-06 he made a custom stock for out of Pecan - it was beautiful but he said it was a real pain to work. Where we are in Arizona during the winter, there is a large pecan grove. They trim their trees on a regular basis - the trimmings usually are cut up and sold for firewood.
Butternut (basically white walnut) can be used but it depends on the tree. I liked working with it for furniture but sometimes, it could be pretty soft. I have two stock blanks that are Persimmon that I bought off of a guy at the Nationals (NMLRA) at Friendship a number of years ago - they came out of Kentucky. I haven't used them yet but it appears that they will be a reap pain . . . close grained and extremely hard so I have a feeling that my tooling will have to be sharp when I cut the barrel channel, ramrod groove, etc. In taking with the fellow I got them from, he said that it could be stained up dark and it would resemble Ebony. I have a 3/4" X 42 - 36 caliber octagon that i want to use with a small Siler to make up a Tennessee rifle. I've had 'em for probably close to 20 years so I guess I'd better get at it before it's too late!
I've always used Maple, Walnut or Cherry for ML stocks. I have also seen several flintlocks with stocks made out of white ash. I like working with ash but again, I'd want to make sure the piece was hand selected to make sure the grain would work on it as far as the wrist, etc. for strength.
I once had a Civil War Austrian Lorenze Rifle in my collection. It was stamped OHIO in several places. The stock was interesting as it was obviously some species of European Oak. The rifle (54 cal) was un-altered and completely original. At some point, the wrist broke on it but it was nicely repaired and doweled many, many years ago - post Civil War. The stock made for a very heavy rifled musket!
Just as a point of interest . . when I was out in AZ several years ago, I stopped at a sawmill about 20 miles south of us near the border. They specialized in mesquite. I wanted to get a small piece of 4/4 surfaced down to 3/4 to make a couple of pairs of revolver grips. I ended up paying $20 for what amounted to 1 bd. ft. of it. I still have it drying in my garage out there and will probably cut in to it in another year. It's extremely hard but mesquite really finishes up beautifully. The sawmill had a custom shop . . . sort of surprise me (being from the north) as it only had a roof over it. The owner gave my wife and I a nice tour of his operation. They were just finishing up the millwork for a new church. They were finishing up the altar, a large cross for behind the alter and railing. All of it was made utilizing the natural shapes of the trees - the railing spindles were all uniform in size but various natural bends, etc. Very beautiful work. On top of it, they could laser carve whatever you wanted. Some of the most beautiful custom work I've ever seen. I suppose mesquite could be used for a gunstock as well but it would be very hard to work it and very heavy when done.
The only time I have knowingly been around pecan as it was being worked was ~35 years ago in high school wood shop. I can remember a couple of different guys using it for projects; they didn't complain that it was too hard to work, and it did finish up nicely.
After reading Outpost75's link, I would almost bet that some of the wooden handles I have replaced over that years have been pecan.
I think as long as the grain runs right, it should make a good stock.
Robert
Years ago I was at Fajens in Warsaw Missouri looking around for a piece of wood and noticed a very nice rifle that had been stocked with mesquite. This was one of their show rifles and it was very distinctive looking with the grain really standing out I looked at a blank and decided that I would buy a piece of good old Missouri walnut instead. That was the only one that I have ever seen sure was pretty though.Originally Posted by bedbugbilly
RB
Pecan, like hickory, is not very stable. It's also heavy. I would rate it very poor as a choice for a rifle stock. Restocking is way too much work to do with anything other than a very nice piece of some variety of walnut, in my opinion.
I have built cabinets out of pecan and hickory--all the cabinets and hardwood flooring in my present house are hickory. It is hard and takes sharp tooling. I have seen rifle stocks out of pecan, but never felt like I needed one.
There are some beautiful mesquite stocks scattered about in Texas and I might get around to one some day. If some of you want some mesquite to make handgun grips, let me know. I have a stack of culled 3/4 X 5" flooring in the shop and it has plenty of good pieces for gun grips. I used it in my son's house and had to take it mill run and cull and cut to use. Make a beautiful floor and we did stairways also.
If you want some, let me know and I will send you some for the cost of postage. Heck, I think I will have to try a set for a couple of revolvers.
"A gentleman will seldom, if ever, need a pistol. However, if he does,he needs it very badly!" Sir Winston Churchill
Pecan is a hardwood......in the grain (growth rings). But..........the natural glue (lignin) that holds the rings together is weak and will crack, splinter, and split much easier than other hardwoods.
Some hardwoods are made for stocks..........pecan is not one of those in my book. Use it for smoking meat!
(This not-so-humble-opinion comes for many decades of woodworking experience on all venues of wood, not just gun stocks) Stick with walnut!
Just for curiosity's sake... For those of you who have made rifle stocks... Did you use a nice piece of wood for your first attempt or did you start out with something like pine?
I do very intricate woodworking projects and have for decades, and I sure do not waste time on pine or other soft woods! I use the quality or exotic wood I want and the skills I have to make the piece right from the get-go. Unless you are making a production line out of it or making it for a pattern for a training class, there is no need for a pattern/trial piece. At lease with reasonable woodworking skills and pro-quality tools.
Do it right....do it from the beginning.
banger
I did a Flintlock pistol in a Speckled Pecan stock before.
The wood was well seasoned, and never cracked or warped.
The inletting was not much worse than Walnut or Ash.
But the inletting was limited because it was a Pistol and not much to do.
But the wood needs to be air cured for two years, and cut from Live trees before making into blanks.
Dead or Downed trees loose the sap that allows for proper curing of the wood, so they can be brittle or prone to cracking.
Pretty much the same for all hardwoods.
BTW
Oak has an oil in it that Rusts Steel really bad if it is left in contact with the wood and any moilsure gets in, even Humidity.
Persimmon is a type of ebony and will be a pain to work.
Its also 52lb/ft3 instead of the approx. 30lb/ft3 of walnut.
Before selecting any wood for a rifle stock you have to research its stability. Some woods move much more in one direction than in the others. An unstable stock is not going to lead to a repeatably accurate rifle. I would look for a wood that is stable, somewhat flexible (not brittle), and not much heavier than walnut.
Like LAGS pointed out, I would avoid all use of oak. The tannins in the oak will turn it black when in contact with steel and any moisture.
Persimmon is a very hard, dense, tough wood. That's why it's often used to make very beautiful wooden golf clubs. It has also been used way back when to make wedges for splitting fire wood. As I understand it, you cut it green, shape it and then let it dry, and when you go to use it, you start a gap with an axe, put the wedge in, and whack it, and the wood splits much better than most would expect. A wood has to be really tough to do that.
Mostly, we've lost our appreciation for the differences in traits of the various wood species. Today, it's pine that we grow around here to feed the hungry maws of the need for paper to scribble our records on and keep us busy. My old home place was built by my grandfather in 1890, and it was built from heartwood yellow pine. It'll stand about anything but a match. It's amazing the difference in the structural specs for heartwood yellow pine, and any other species of pine. It's almost like they're not even related to each other.
Beauty is fine, but performance is final when it comes to gunstocks, and for a real HUNTING rifle, I think I'd go to walnut, maple or cherry. There's a reason(s) they became the standard for gunstocks. it's usually wise to stick to the old standards handed down through the generations unless and until you thoroughly understand WHY they became the standard. We tend to think in terms of "Is it pretty?" now, but there are many more criteria a good gunstock wood has to meet.
If it were me, I wouldn't hesitate to use pecan for a stock on a .22 RF. I think I'd have to pass for anything bigger, but again, that's just me, and YMMV.
Real guns use walnut.
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