Better than coolwhip?

[AggiePharmD]

My first go at BBDTPC and didn't need any CW. Instead I found Medium sized Rubbermaid take alongs that have the number 5 recycling code.. Add BBs, 50-60 .358 WC and shook it. Coated the bullets well. Maybe be a better option for those that want to do a larger qty each batch.

Also used curved forceps. Worked okay but discovered something. The teeth are filled with PC. When I'm done gonna bake those. Figure coated teeth should keep from biting into the PC? Guess I'll find outm

[AggiePharmD]

Well the boolits didn't come out very "slick" looking but instead speckled looking. Why?

Too many boolits?

Too many/too few BB'S to boolit ratio?
Too little powder?
shaking too hard?
Not shaking long enough?
Oven too cold? Approximately 400 temp cooking for 20-25 min.

[VHoward]

What powder did you use. Some powders don't tumble coat very well.

[AggiePharmD]

I'm using the zombie green from Smoke.

[VHoward]

I read somewhere that the airsoft bb's need to be the black ones to generate the static charge. I have had mixed results with the dry tumble method. Sometimes they coat well, sometimes they don't. Banger Jim has found that 2 layers of bb's no matter the size of your container works well. I find that putting a max of 1 tablespoon of powder in works well for me. Humidity could very well effect it too.

[Beagle333]

This is Smoke's zombie green (and some HF red). I did it like your method describes, but I used a Coolwhip container. I can't tell you what determines the coating, because sometimes it works just like this, sometimes it doesn't stick. I was blaming the humidity, but I really just can't say. But sometimes it does work.

[AggiePharmD]

Thanks guys. I'm in TX and the humidity is high in the Summer especially yesterday with rain. I'm sizing and loading what I have as they are coated but they ain't 'perdy' as they say. I'll try a different color and see what happens.

[Maximumbob54]

If you ever pop the top open and find they aren't coated very well then seal it back and give it a harder shake. When I first started this I was being pretty gentle trying not to beat up the bullets while shaking. I quickly found that just doesn't work very well. And shaking harder doesn't do to much to them as I also learned the hard way you will blow out the container if you really go nuts with the shaking.

[Smoke4320]

Max Bob is right.. Most start out not shaking hard enough

[bangerjim]

The best action I have found FOR ME after many hours of "messing around" is:

Swirl for 30-40 seconds rapidly round and round. I have found the ROUND containers works best.

Then shake up and down HARD for 10-12 seconds....hence the SCREW-ON ZipLok containers! If, after picking up booits, some are loosing the coat, shake up I down again to renew the coat. I tap the hemos on the side of the container to drop any excess powder.

I get darned near perfect coats. Pick them up with curved hemostats. Bake 400F for 10 minutes per most industrial power manufacturer's instructions (after powder turns shiny) on NSAF. The powder runs so any minor divots are filled in.

Your boolits should look just like Beagle's above. Mine do. They do not need to look perfect, but I like perfect things.

Keep trying. There is very little repeatable science and a whole lot of black magic to this process. Sometimes it works..........sometimes it doesn't.

"Ya gotta hold yer mouth just right." Or buy an ESPC gun.

bangerjim

[1911KY]

I have notice on the first introduction of PC into a new bowl with BB's, that the BB's will take up most of the powder. Therefore, I put in a couple of spoonfuls and just run the BB's around until they are coated. Then I put the bullets in and throw in another spoonful of powder and then swirl everything as fast as I possible can for about 10 to 15 seconds. The faster you can swirl, the more static you will create. You will need to press in on the lid as it will come off with a vigorous effort.

Having excess powder in the bowl won't hurt anything, so don't be conservative with the powder if you want a solid coating.

[AggiePharmD]

All good info. My green ones look like beagle's red ones where the powder didn't "run." Wished they looked like his green ones. Might even be being stingy with my powder.

I've just been popping them in the oven and setting the timer. How long until shiny versus total bake time?

I ain't giving up and sure won't trash what I've done thus far. Might try some more tonight if I can sneak out of the house for a bit into the shop.

Thanks again folks. Maybe I'll have some nice shiny boolits to post later.

[sparky45]

If you're not doing it with a Cool Whip tub, you're missing out on the best part of the procedure, emptying the tub in the first place.

[bangerjim]

if you're not doing it with a cool whip tub, you're missing out on the best part of the procedure, emptying the tub in the first place.:d

..............yummmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm................. ..!

[AggiePharmD]

Duplicate-deleted

[Beagle333]

Tumble em again and bake again and see if it fills in the blank spots.

[AggiePharmD]

Tumble em again and bake again and see if it fills in the blank spots.

You know I did already yesterday with the same results. I went back and read a tutorial and realized that I didn't COVER the bullets with BBs leading me to believe that the boolits were hitting each other. I just put some in the bottom of the bowl. So I have 2 variables: 1. Not enough BBs OR 2. Too big/deep of a bowl. I'll have to figure which by altering a single one at a time. Off to get more BBs tonight.

[AggiePharmD]

Here is a representative example of my run tonight. I threw science out the window and add more powder and shook less boolits per time. Much better coverage. Looks like I was stingy with my powder.

Now if anyone recognizes this .358 WC I'd appreciate it if you'd tell me. These MAY have been cast in the early '60 as they came with some stuff of my grandfather's. May be off on the time frame. I've looked in my Lyman manuals and the few references I could find here. Loaded a couple dummy rounds and the OAL is 1.39" Boolit is 0.61" from tip to stern and the front driving band is about 0.23" from crimp groove to tip (rough estimate.) This driving band is what is throwing me. I'm needing an COAL and don't want to assume that I can seat to crimp groove. TIA

[Beagle333]

Looks like a 148gr 358432. They also come in 160gr. as shown below.


(I had mine HP'd)
These two colors ESPC'd.

[dek16001]

the bullet appears to be a Lyman 358495 .H&G also made a mold like that. I believe it was#50.
Both are excellent target and critter bullets up to around 50 yards.
Dan