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Thread: Lead/tin 20/1, will a small amount of antimony make a difference.

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
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    Lead/tin 20/1, will a small amount of antimony make a difference.

    I want to try 20/1 and 30/1 in my 38-55 with a 380 bore:

    The tin in my alloy stash is from babbitt, mixed 50/50 by weight with pure lead, so it contains some Sb. Therefore my 20/1 mix will have app 1/4% Sb. I don't think that small amount will make any difference?

    I'm new to cast bullets and the whole smelting thing. When I smelt, and flux, I can't seem to see the difference between "dross" and "valuable alloy". When I stir I see little things swimming just below the surface, when all is still again a skin forms but it looks like a thin sheet of tin, somewhat dull, but metallic. I somehow think it is tin forming because of the near freezing temperature wind that is ventilating my work area. When I pour the melt into ingots, I can see the skin on the surface, and it is dull. I flux with beeswax.

    My bad, a picture sure would help.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master

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    I would say that the 1/4% Sb won't make much of a difference. Even Pewter adds some Sb with the Tin and everyone seems to use that. It will be just a little bit harder, but not enough to really matter. Should only raise your BHN from 10 to 10.2. Use what you have.

    But, if you're like me and want things as close to true alloy as possible, for repeatability later, then buy some Bar Solder or Pure Tin.

    Your melt sounds pretty normal to me. I flux with Pine Sawdust! Try it and you will never go back to wax. The sawdust cleans better and is a really complete fluxing agent. It is cheap and easy to make when you need more.

    DC-1
    "The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has it's limits." - Albert Einstein

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    info on rotometals site.1% Sb =.92 bhn.1%sn=.29bnh.so not much difference.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
    GLL's Avatar
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    What is the actual composition of your babbitt tin source?

    Jerry
    S&W .38/44 Outdoorsman Accumulator

  5. #5
    Boolit Master




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    After I flux, there's a little pile of junk on top of the melt. I then take a spoon and smash that junk against the side of the pot, keep smashing. After a minute you will have a very small pile of what looks like grey sand. That's what I throw out. Sawdust back on top, and away we go....
    Politicians are a lot like diapers. They should be changed frequently, and for the same reason. Benjamin Franklin

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by GLL View Post
    What is the actual composition of your babbitt tin source?

    Jerry
    Mostly tin, I cast a bullet with it and it was lighter than lead. Actual composition is a mystery. Found it siting in the corner @ work and gave it a new home. I blended it with lead, to mimic a bar of 50/50 solder. And that is about as scientific as I'm going to go.

    This is a learning experience as I've only cast my own once before, in the 70's, at the time I thought it was a one and done, then this shortage %****% started.

  7. #7
    Boolit Grand Master

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    air cooled, the small amount of antimony will make a smaller diffrence. Water quench antimony is a hardening agent and will make a bigger diffrencemore so if the babbit has arsnec in it also. Make a small amount and cast some bullets up air cooled and let set a couple weeks check hardbess and see what they are. I shoot 20-1 in my 40-65, 45-70, and 45-90 with good results and little to no leading. I buy alloy from buffalo arms. The 20-1 is available from Buffalo arms co. roto metals and some others.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
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    nitro-express:

    Send me a PM with your mailing address and I will ship you a 5 pound ingot of 60/40 (Sn/Pb) (no Sb) so you can experiment and not worry about the composition of your babbitt. You can make some true 20:1 ! That is one of my favorite .38 Special and .44 Special alloys.

    Jerry
    S&W .38/44 Outdoorsman Accumulator

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by GLL View Post
    nitro-express:
    ........
    You can make some true 20:1 ! That is one of my favorite .38 Special and .44 Special alloys.

    Jerry
    That was pretty nice of you to help nitro-express out.

    What powder do you put behind that .38 special and 20:1 alloy? Or maybe I should ask what velocity since if I don't already have the same powder I might be old and gray before I can get some. Oh wait I'm already old(ish) and gray. That must have happened while waiting for Unique to show up. And what bullet?

    I have a few bars of 10% tin solder I was going to use it for tin but saw your post and though hmmm maybe I could use it in .38 to try something different. Would be in short barrel, moderate loads, wife does not like to get hammered when she shoots. Come to think of it neither do I if I'm just punching paper for fun.

    Ever shot that 20:1 out of 45 colt?
    Scrap.... because all the really pithy and emphatic four letter words were taken and we had to describe this source of casting material somehow so we added an "S" to what non casters and wives call what we collect.

    Kind of hard to claim to love America while one is hating half the Americans that disagree with you. One nation indivisible requires work.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check