Additional powder coating information you man not know...

[cs86]

no worries on the "post add" (fumed silica or aluminum oxide) those actually are not part of the paint. thats why we call them post add. no amount of them will matter for the barrel wear as they are merely a flow agent to make the powder flow, they fall away as the paint is sprayed and are not "attached" to the paint. sory forgot to mention that. good point though.

fumed silica or aluminum oxide are not a part of the paint and you say it will come off during a spray process, but there is a method a lot of us use known as the air soft bb method (ASBB). In this instance we put some powder in a container with the BBs and bullets and swirl them around to start a natural static charge to get it to cling to the bullet. In this instance the fumed silica or aluminum oxide would stay in the container. Is this bad or is there enough to ever worry about?

[coffeeguy]

It's in there, but in negligible amounts...At least that you'll probably never notice any appreciable barrel wear. The ASBB and Bag-In-A-Bowl methods still rely on electrostatic adhesion, just like using a gun or fluidized bed; all of the powder picks up a charge but more of it goes to the base and pigment than the flow agent so you should get very similar results. More specifically, aluminum tends to pick up a positive charge, where polyester/epoxy picks up a negative charge. You'd think they'd attract each other BUT lead picks up a positive charge too, so it will repel aluminum or aluminum oxide and attract the powdercoat. Not sure about silica but willing to wager that it would be positively-charged as well..Plus there's far more of the polyester or epoxy base which acts as a buffer; as a percentage there's VERY little of the silica or aluminum oxide which will physically contact the barrel. You're probably more likely to damage it with a cleaning rod or bore brush.

[flyingmonkey35]

All caps .... But good info

[coadyboys]

Attachment 132001

Indeed!!! A few weeks ago I took a large pinch of a contrasting color, then rubbed it between my hands to sprinkle it over a batch of boolits. The main coat was blue, and I sprinkled them with black plus a tiny bit of gold per a friend's request, and they came out looking really neat as you can see.

thems some purdy boolits!

[coadyboys]

fumed silica or aluminum oxide are not a part of the paint and you say it will come off during a spray process, but there is a method a lot of us use known as the air soft bb method (ASBB). In this instance we put some powder in a container with the BBs and bullets and swirl them around to start a natural static charge to get it to cling to the bullet. In this instance the fumed silica or aluminum oxide would stay in the container. Is this bad or is there enough to ever worry about?

i had not heard of that process, thanks for the info. we put a good bit of "post add" in most of our paints, but the majority of it is lost during the production process because of the particle size of the silica or oxide. our systems to make the pc basically "keep" the bigger particles and blow the fine stuff to a bag house because it is not needed. (when i say fine, i mean fine) you can even spray the stuff its so fine. its mostly post add, but obviously some negligible amount stays in the product.

[coadyboys]

It's in there, but in negligible amounts...At least that you'll probably never notice any appreciable barrel wear. The ASBB and Bag-In-A-Bowl methods still rely on electrostatic adhesion, just like using a gun or fluidized bed; all of the powder picks up a charge but more of it goes to the base and pigment than the flow agent so you should get very similar results. More specifically, aluminum tends to pick up a positive charge, where polyester/epoxy picks up a negative charge. You'd think they'd attract each other BUT lead picks up a positive charge too, so it will repel aluminum or aluminum oxide and attract the powdercoat. Not sure about silica but willing to wager that it would be positively-charged as well..Plus there's far more of the polyester or epoxy base which acts as a buffer; as a percentage there's VERY little of the silica or aluminum oxide which will physically contact the barrel. You're probably more likely to damage it with a cleaning rod or bore brush.

agreed. you can get paint that has none in it. typically its the super fine powder that doesnt need a flow agent.

[cga]

Thanks for the information coadyboys, it's much appreciated.

[coadyboys]

Thanks for the information coadyboys, it's much appreciated.

glad its useful. thank you.

[coffeeguy]

thems some purdy boolits!

Thanks much! Likewise, that's some good work and I like the John Deere colors! I saw you're in Monticello, I live near Gainesville (getting snow and sleet tonight!) but if I ever needed some custom PC work done on my gun I'd bring it in to you!

[coadyboys]

Thanks much! Likewise, that's some good work and I like the John Deere colors! I saw you're in Monticello, I live near Gainesville (getting snow and sleet tonight!) but if I ever needed some custom PC work done on my gun I'd bring it in to you!

you do that! thanks and if you need paint.. ill give you all you want free if you come down and get it. any color you like. (any amount you like)

[coffeeguy]

I just might take you up on that; maybe for a small sample at least...A half-pound of powder goes a long way when coating boolits depending on what method you use. All the information was really appreciated, I get the most out of casting my own boolits when I understand the science behind it (alloys, hardness, casting temperature, etc) and the same goes for powdercoating. Thanks once again.

[runfiverun]

cab-o-sil is used as a thickening agent in greases and oils.
and titanium dioxide is used as a whitening agent in paper making [think printer paper]
it is super abrasive.
I use it to fire-lap barrels when they need it, usually 20-25 shots will take a super dark bore and make it shine like polished steel.

[BossMaverick]

Would high gloss clear powder be best for avoiding unwanted ingredients?

Also, thanks for the info on white powders. I was tempted on switching to it sometime to help recover bullets from the range.

[Polecat]

Coadyboys Thanks for the info and thanks for the way you presented it.

[coffeeguy]

Would high gloss clear powder be best for avoiding unwanted ingredients?

It'd be a good choice. As long as you're using a 'dry' method of application (versus Piglet, TES or other method using acetone, lacquer thinner or whatever) you can easily tell if you're getting good coverage. I've found the high-gloss (90 percent or better per the datasheet for that powder) flows really well and is pretty forgiving of small 'dings' in the powdercoat prior to baking. Plus it's kinda cool especially for freshly-cast boolits when you can see the shiny metal underneath the finished PC.

[coadyboys]

Would high gloss clear powder be best for avoiding unwanted ingredients?

Also, thanks for the info on white powders. I was tempted on switching to it sometime to help recover bullets from the range.

from what i know.. the high gloss black will be your best bet. good luck.

[coadyboys]

No broblem. thanks.

[coadyboys]

Coadyboys Thanks for the info and thanks for the way you presented it.

you are welcome.

[coffeeguy]

Here are two samples from tonight's coating/baking session, hopefully good examples of what's been discussed here. Both were the ASBB method

First, a two-color example; it's 'Chili Pepper Red' from TCI powdercoatings, once I put them on the baking sheet I sprinkled them with a big pinch of black (can't remember who made it) then baked. There's some 'crud' in with the boolits, it's some black which flaked off the parchment paper I use on the baking sheet.


Second, a semi-transparent called 'Black Chrome' from powderbythepound.com, for some reason this powder likes to get a little clumpy using the ASBB method so it's a thin coat, but there's complete coverage and they shoot just fine. Very high gloss but the wavy coating makes it hard to tell...I'm still experimenting with coverage, but some colors I've found just don't behave as well as others. I imagine with a powdercoating gun it'd look really slick. The gloss shows a lot more with larger boolits, these have kind of a 'vintage' look to them.


Anyway, I hope this gives an idea to others to try something different, and it's always neat to do a 'custom' color for friends/family.

[coadyboys]

Here are two samples from tonight's coating/baking session, hopefully good examples of what's been discussed here. Both were the ASBB method

First, a two-color example; it's 'Chili Pepper Red' from TCI powdercoatings, once I put them on the baking sheet I sprinkled them with a big pinch of black (can't remember who made it) then baked. There's some 'crud' in with the boolits, it's some black which flaked off the parchment paper I use on the baking sheet.


Second, a semi-transparent called 'Black Chrome' from powderbythepound.com, for some reason this powder likes to get a little clumpy using the ASBB method so it's a thin coat, but there's complete coverage and they shoot just fine. Very high gloss but the wavy coating makes it hard to tell...I'm still experimenting with coverage, but some colors I've found just don't behave as well as others. I imagine with a powdercoating gun it'd look really slick. The gloss shows a lot more with larger boolits, these have kind of a 'vintage' look to them.


Anyway, I hope this gives an idea to others to try something different, and it's always neat to do a 'custom' color for friends/family.

i love seeing the PC experiments. NICE WORK