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Thread: Best cleaning solution for lead removal

  1. #21
    Boolit Grand Master

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    After reading the thread on lead removal I tried several methods on 2 badly leaded Kahr CW45 barrels. These barrels do not like cast but I'm not giving up on them. With the help of several members I thought I had it licked but no dice.

    I tried the vinegar/peroxide method and it worked but I had a darkened barrel and a little pitting so abandoned it. I swabbed the barrels in Hoppes 9, CLR, Copper Cutter, Kroil, soaking with solvent then using JB Borepaste plus several other solvents I had on hand and let them sit for varying periods of time. Again, some luck but not much. The best method I found for a heavily leaded barrel was to plug the end of the barrel and fill it with Kroil. Let it sit for a day or two then scrub with Copper Choreboy. More labor intensive but it came out. I found that soaking with Kroil then using JB on all but the heaviest leading seems to work fine. Heavier leading got the 2 day soak. If you do not have much kroil on hand, swab the barrel then put it in a plastic sandwich bag to keep it from drying out. The key is the Kroil.

    I've tried this last method a couple of times and have found that unless the barrel is caked on wetting a patch with Kroil and then a Choreboy/JB Borepaste scrubbing after letting it sit for a few hours or overnight works well. Only the heaviest leading from a reloading mistake such as using unlubed boolits by accident calls for the full barrel of Kroil/2 day soak method.
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  2. #22
    Boolit Master trapper9260's Avatar
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    In the past I had got some factory ammo for my 44mag redhawk before I was set up to do reloading again because of moven around so much at the time and it was lead bullets for the factory ammo and after i was done shooting it my barrel lead up bad and I read in the Lyman 3ed cast bullet handbook and it said of 2 ways to remove the leading and one is to shoot jacket bullets in it and the other if I remember right is to scrub it.Well I did the jacket bullet round and it clean it all all and just had the copper to deal with and there was not much and after that I did not get any more of that lead factory ammo and I just cast my own after and no more problems with leading.
    Life Member of NRA,NTA,DAV ,ITA. Also member of FTA,CBA

  3. #23
    Boolit Grand Master tazman's Avatar
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    The easiest way I have found to clean a heavily leaded barrel is to soak the inside of the barrel in automatic transmission fluid for 20-30 minutes then use a tight patch or chore boy to clean out the mess.
    I used a soaked patch to coat the inside of the barrel thoroughly. The ATF seems to loosen/lift the lead so that it come out relatively easily.
    My worst case was I had to do this 3 times to get it all. The barrel was leaded the entire length that time.

  4. #24
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    Toluene, Xylene, Acetone, carb cleaner, etc are just as dangerous as mercury without proper safety precautions. Birchwood Casey Lead Removal Cloth, Pb Blaster, Kroil, transmission fluid, etc. all work to various degrees. The response that notes pitting from the hydrogen peroxide/vinegar is useful information. Hydrogen peroxide is an oxidizing agent; oxidize steel and you get rust. You already have success with CR-10 and elbow grease. Are you looking for a faster way? A more complete removal? A less elbow grease way?

    I'll use the Casey's Lead Removal cloth or KG cleaning products or mercury depending on my mood, the amount of leading and where it is.

  5. #25
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    Never had leading I couldn't remove with chore boy or 4 aught steel wool and a brush. I don't use any solvent other than to clean things up once I get the leading gone.

    Best way to remove leading is with a healthy application of this.

    You will learn far more at the casting, loading, and shooting bench than you ever will at a computer bench.

  6. #26
    Boolit Buddy Bucking the Tiger's Avatar
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    I second the use of Kano Kroil. It will not break the lead down; it gets under it and loosens it. Kroil has been my barrel cleaner for years and thousands of lead bullets.
    I soak the barrel with a wet patch, scrub it 10 or so times with a bore brush, and let it soak in while I clean the rest of the gun. This will take all but the most stubborn lead out. I repeat if needed.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by scottfire1957 View Post
    I've read that mercury works. That was my answer in the thread a week or two ago.

    About this very subject. Read back a page or two.
    Mercury is a deadly poison, particularly the oxide. I've read that lead does not amalgamate with it very well, and you can get mercury permanently infused into the barrel steel.

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  8. #28
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    I'm not a big fan of removing lead with chemicals. I totally agree with MtnGun44, lead is not very chemically active and most of the home remedies to "dissolve" lead are complete bunk. I do like using Kroil and bore brush when cleaning barrels but the Kroil is an aid to a mechanical process; it doesn't chemically dissolve the lead.
    Now, Copper is a different story. Copper CAN easily be chemically dissolved and there are a lot of solvents out there that work beautifully for removing copper fouling.

    So: 1. Avoid leading the barrel in the first place!
    2. Mechanical processes such as; the Lewis Lead remover, Chore Boy, plain ol' elbow grease....work fine for lead.
    3. Copper fouling and Lead fouling aren't the same thing.

  9. #29
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    There are chemicals or combinations that will dissolve lead. Issue is that those same things are likely to dissolve bits of your bore at the same time.

    I agree on mechanical means for removing lead being the only way.
    You will learn far more at the casting, loading, and shooting bench than you ever will at a computer bench.

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by btroj View Post
    There are chemicals or combinations that will dissolve lead. Issue is that those same things are likely to dissolve bits of your bore at the same time.
    ..........
    I've got good news and bad news:
    The good news is I've developed the worlds strongest acid, it will dissolve anything!
    What's the bad news?
    I can't find anything to store it in!

  11. #31
    Boolit Man
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    I use Krol and nylon brush, have no problem.

  12. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by btroj View Post
    There are chemicals or combinations that will dissolve lead. Issue is that those same things are likely to dissolve bits of your bore at the same time.

    I agree on mechanical means for removing lead being the only way.
    +1

    Acetic acid will dissolve lead. It will also attack your barrel steel. It turns lead into lead acetate. Sugar of lead, pure poison.

    Shiloh
    Je suis Charlie

    "A society of sheep must in time beget a government of wolves."
    Bertrand de Jouvenel

    “Any government that does not trust its citizens with firearms is either a tyranny, or planning to become one.” – Joseph P. Martino

    “If you put the federal government in charge of the Sahara Desert , in five years there would be a shortage of sand.” – Milton Friedman

    "Ideas are more powerful than guns. We would not let our enemies have guns; why should we let them have ideas?" - J. Stalin

  13. #33
    Boolit Grand Master Tatume's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shiloh View Post
    Mercury is a deadly poison, particularly the oxide.
    Quote Originally Posted by Shiloh View Post
    Acetic acid will dissolve lead. It will also attack your barrel steel. It turns lead into lead acetate. Sugar of lead, pure poison.
    Agree 100% with both. Another point to consider: what will we do with these poisons afterwards? The problems we create are often left for our children to solve.

  14. #34
    Boolit Grand Master tazman's Avatar
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    The poisons and corrosiveness involved with trying to dissolve lead deposits are a good part of the reason I use oils to loosen leading as opposed to dissolving it. Oil doesn't normally attack the firearm metal.
    I understand that oil can be an enviromental problem in it's own right. I use such small quantities that i don't believe it will be an issue.

  15. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tatume View Post
    Agree 100% with both. Another point to consider: what will we do with these poisons afterwards? The problems we create are often left for our children to solve.
    I dumped it into my herb garden to water the herbs......

    Kroil, as has been pointed out, does not dissolve the lead. It gets under it and makes it easier to get out. Seems to work well.
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  16. #36
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    I did a little testing with the vinegar peroxide blend awhile back. I put a sharp wood chisel in a glass of this stuff for about 3 hours. The area exposed to the solution was etched, and the edge looked serrated.
    This may not prove much, but it was good enough for me.

  17. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonp View Post
    I dumped it into my herb garden to water the herbs......

    Kroil, as has been pointed out, does not dissolve the lead. It gets under it and makes it easier to get out. Seems to work well.
    Kroil will creep under lead spray on the top strap and near the pivot by the yoke. Over night and it cleaned up very easy.

    Quote Originally Posted by ryan28 View Post
    I did a little testing with the vinegar peroxide blend awhile back. I put a sharp wood chisel in a glass of this stuff for about 3 hours. The area exposed to the solution was etched, and the edge looked serrated.
    This may not prove much, but it was good enough for me.
    What more do you need to know?? It will attack your barrel the same way.

    Shiloh
    Je suis Charlie

    "A society of sheep must in time beget a government of wolves."
    Bertrand de Jouvenel

    “Any government that does not trust its citizens with firearms is either a tyranny, or planning to become one.” – Joseph P. Martino

    “If you put the federal government in charge of the Sahara Desert , in five years there would be a shortage of sand.” – Milton Friedman

    "Ideas are more powerful than guns. We would not let our enemies have guns; why should we let them have ideas?" - J. Stalin

  18. #38
    Boolit Master
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    I didn't see turpentine mentioned..several years back at our schuetzen society rimfire match, one fellow was using pure turp..said it was best thing for lead..you could hear that patch squeeling thru that bore at the other end of line..never tried it myself though.

  19. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cadillo View Post
    Aren't you a smart boy?

    I bought a Barsto to replace it after the witches brew incident, not before.

    I find it interesting to note that given your IQ, you would replace a barrel rather than attempt to clean it first.

    Yep. Smart boy!
    Smart enough to know sarcasm when I read it. Oh, sorry, is that's too many syllables for you? Dang, there I go with those multi-syllable words again.

    Oh well, get someone to read it (slowly) to you and explain what those pesky long words mean.

  20. #40
    Moderator Emeritus / Trusted loob groove dealer

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jtarm View Post
    Smart enough to know sarcasm when I read it. Oh, sorry, is that's too many syllables for you? Dang, there I go with those multi-syllable words again.

    Oh well, get someone to read it (slowly) to you and explain what those pesky long words mean.
    Snark doesn't travel far on this board, applies to both of you.
    The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
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    Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!


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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check