Just the facts: Lube recipes

[45nut]

I ask for submissions for a thread to simplify and consolidate lube recipes, I would prefer this thread be hard facts and minimal in off topic conversations.

There are 7 pages of threads already when a simple search query for lube recipe is entered into the search and many many days of reading, while noteworthy and helpful, I would like one thread to "sticky" for all time.

Any submissions welcome and encouraged, I just ask we stick to the facts and leave out the "ya, that is what I use" type posts please.

[45nut]

Bullshops Speed Green:

Beeswax and Bullplate.
The mix is by weight 3 to 1, 3 beeswax to 1 bull plate.

Bullplate can be purchased from http://bullshop.gunloads.com/

Good thread to refer to:

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...ht=speed+green

[45nut]

Felix Lube formula from Waksupi's thread:

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=17548

2 Tablespoons mineral oil
1 Tablespoon castor oil
1 Tablespoon Ivory, or homemade soap (grated)
1 Tablespoon Lanolin
Beeswax - Piece approximately 3 1/2" X 3 1/2" X 1 "

Heat mineral (baby) oil until it starts to smoke.

Add castor oil, and stir continuously for 1/2 hour.

Sliver the soap, and stir into the mixture a little at a time, until melted.

Add the beeswax before the lanolin, and then when that is melted, reduce or remove the heat and add the lanolin, thus not running any risk of burning or scorching the lanolin.

1 teaspoon of carnuba wax can be added to give a shiny bore. This can be found on the seal of Makers Mark whiskey, or the red wax on cheese from the supermarket.

Once made, let cool. This can be remelted in a microwave, and poured into the lubrisize

[warf73]

Warf's Pistol Lube:

Beeswax & Virgin Olive oil.

Melt 8 oz. of bees wax then add 8oz. of Olive oil. Stir for apox. 2mins on low heat.

This mix runs threw a Star without a heat supply.
You can also use this mix as lip balm.


Warf

[Junior1942]

Junior's 411 or Pinko Commie *** lube.

Over heat, mix by volume 4 parts beeswax, 1 part Dexron ATF, 1 part lithium auto grease.

The lithium grease will tend to form little blobs, so squeeze them against the side of the melting container with a spatula.

411 works fine in a 450 sizer-lubricator. Just melt and fill the reservoir. I've shot it to 1900 fps with no leading in Model 94 30-30.

[44man]

45nut, one of us has to figure the weight of the beeswax to make it easier. Most blocks are very large, mine are 4# blocks. It can get confusing for someone new.

For which recipe? ,, Either way I will post links to the original threads.

These are not my recipes, I will defer to the eggspurts and cooks.

[utk]

"California Saeco Green"
2 lbs Beeswax
2 lbs Paraffin
1 lb STP Oil Treatment
------------------------------------------------------------
Old NRA lube formula
1 part Beeswax
1 part Paraffin
1 part Vaseline
All parts by volume
------------------------------------------------------------
In a post by Chargar 071219:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...ight=comprendo
60% Beeswax
40% Vaseline
"Has worked for almost 50 years in handgun and rifle loads up to 1,9 or 2k fps".
-----------------------------------------------------------
Barry Darr’s Lube
1 lb Paraffin
1 lb Vaseline
2 tablespoons (30 ml) STP Oil Treatment
-----------------------------------------------------------
Modified Barry Darr lube
1 lb. Paraffin
1 lb. Vaselin
No STP
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

[jonk]

A good blackpowder lube recommended by another board member (I've also used it in low pressure handgun loads, no problems):

I shot BPCR Sil for fifteen years. Emmert's Home Mix (50% pure natural beeswax, 40% Original Crisco and 10% Canola Oil) makes a very successful lube for Black Powder. I have since modified the original formula by reducing the Canola Oil to 5% and adding 5% Anhydrous Lanolin. The lanolin makes the lube stick to the bullet better over time and does a slightly better job overall. Be sure and use a double boiler to melt it to avoid overheating the lube. Over heating will KILL it for bullet lube. Your receipe is almost the same as mine, and I've been using mine for years.

You may substitute olive oil for the canola oil, the olive oil has a higher flash point and works very good as well.

The trick is to keep everything natural, no oil based products (vaseline). The crisco is vegetable based as well as the olive oil. The beeswax, because of it's exposure to the honey, will naturally repel bacteria, thus prevent the lube from going rancid and drying out.

[Lead melter]

WWVA lube;
4 oz. paraffin
4 oz petroleum jelly
2 oz. Lee Liquid Alox
2 heaping tablespoons Johnsons Paste Wax [carnuba wax]
Heat components until all melted, then pan or dip lube. May require a heater for the Lyman or RCBS lubrisizers.

Sweet lube;
equal parts beeswax and petroleum jelly.
Heat until melted. If you don't like it for boolit lube, it will work for hand lotion or lip balm. Plus it smells good enough to eat.

[mroliver77]

For muzzle loading rifles I use white hand cleaner to soak the patches. An old feller that shot competition ML used this(he recomended D&L brand) and it works great for me.

[Hip's Ax]

Well, you asked for it. This is the entire contents of my lube recipe file. I picked these up all over the net over the last few years. Some are repeats, of course the first one is for sure. Amount of text is too long for a single post, I'll split it into two.

************************************************** ***************

Felix Lube formula (for smokeless)

2 Tablespoons mineral oil
1 Tablespoon castor oil
1 Tablespoon Ivory, or homemade soap (grated)
1 Tablespoon Lanolin
Beeswax - Piece approximately 3 1/2" X 3 1/2" X 1 "

Heat mineral (baby) oil until it starts to smoke.

Add castor oil, and stir continuously for 1/2 hour.

Sliver the soap, and stir into the mixture a little at a time, until melted.

Add the beeswax before the lanolin, and then when that is melted, reduce or remove the
heat and add the lanolin, thus not running any risk of burning or scorching the lanolin.

1 teaspoon of carnauba wax can be added to give a shiny bore. This can be found on the
seal of Makers Mark whiskey, or the red wax on cheese from the supermarket.

Once made, let cool. This can be remelted in a microwave, and poured into the lubrisizer.

************************************************** ****************************************

Lube Formula - Colorado Shooters

1/3 Candle Wax (140 Degree F Melting Point)
1/3 Cosmoline
1/3 Bowl Wax
4 oz. Olive Oil added per pound of lube

Ratio's are approximate and are non-critical. A little more or a little less of any
component seems to make no difference in performance. Candle wax is available at any
hobby store, which sells candle-making supplies. Cosmoline is available in small
quantities from suppliers such as Midway, USA, Inc. 1-800-243-3220 or
http://www.midwayusa.com . Bowl wax is available in any Home Depot or similar store.

************************************************** ****************************************

Buck Emmert's Lube Formula (for black powder)

1750 grains Beeswax
1368 grains Crisco Shortening (White)
328 grains Crisco or Wesson Vegatable Oil

This recipe makes 1/2 pound lubricant. If you tray lube as I do, you'll probably
want to double the recipe.

************************************************** *****************************************

Barry Darr's Lube Formula

1 lb. Paraffin
1 lb. Vaseline
2 Tbsp. STP

Somebody told me this is Barry Darr's Lube Formula. It's been around for years - a great
lube for pan lubing bullets.

************************************************** *******************************************

California Saeco Green: 2 parts beeswax, 2 parts paraffin and 1 part STP (parts by weight)

************************************************** *******************************************

In my opinion unless you are only striving for a slow pistol lube you are wasting your time
with parraffin, you would be served better by using beeswax, or microcrystalline wax. I
have done alot of playing with lubes and parraffin always failed as a main ingredient.
Any concoction I have tried with more than 15 percent parraffin has failed to reach rifle
velocities. Try mixing this one up and see if it serves you for the higher end loads:



1 lb beeswax
1 TBLSP vaseline
1 teaspoon johnson paste wax


This would be considered a hard lube, but the addition of more vaseline would make it
softer to suit your desires. The johnsons might not be totally neccessary, but I think
it helps to keep the bore shiny. Whatever you do do not add a penetrating oil like kroil
to a lube, it must actually enter the pores of the bullet, cause it has caused leading in
recipes that previously did not lead. Keep the kroil for cleaning that is where it shines.

************************************************** *******************************************

Junior Lube
exactly 3 fluid ozs of melted lard

exactly 400 grs of solid beeswax

exactly 100 grs of Alox solid bullet lube.

************************************************** *******************************************

BPCR LUBE
1 pound Bees Wax

1 pound Citronella Candle

2 Tablespoons shortening

************************************************** *******************************************

Pistol Lube
1 part Beeswax

.75 parts petroleum jelly

.25 parts parafin (candle wax)


Rifle Lube
1 part Beeswax

.75 parts petroleum jelly

.25 parts parafin (candle wax)

I use the above recipe , doubled , then I add four tablespoons of automatic transmisson
fluid a four ounce bottle of LEEs liquid alox and a extra half pound of candle wax. I
adjust the amount of candle wax for winter and summer shooting......., a little softer
for winter and a little stiffer for summer.

I know, yall were expecting the "eye of newt" thing right? Sorry, its just not that big
of a deal.I use the lube with everything I shoot and I never have any leading problems.
I shoot a 170 gr cast bullet in a Model 94 over 29 grains of IMR 4895 with a magnum primer
useing this lube and never have I had any lead left in the barrel. Thats a jacketed bullet
load guys!As soon as I get the chrony in Ill get yall some numbers for that load .

One hint, if you can get your hands on a quanity of carnuba wax, use that in place of the
regular candle wax. I dont know what it is about that stuff but it will polish your bore
better than anything Ive ever seen , and a smooth bore is probably the single greatest
mechanical factor affecting lead bullet performance.

************************************************** *****************************************

I've had better luck with my Emmert's with lanolin than I have with SPG. Emmert's is,
as I understand it, an old Schuetzen lube, and it's simple and easy to make - always a
plus. It's

50% beeswax,
40% white Crisco (like Mama used to make biscuits with) and
10% canola cooking oil.

To that I've added about 6-7% anhydrous lanolin. The lanolin is a
good high temp, high pressure lube and it's sticky. It helps the lube stick to the
bullets, and helps make it better for pan lubing. Sure has seemed to keep the fouling
softer than the SPG seemed to, or at least in my gun it has.
The anhydrous lanolin can be ordered from your local pharmacy, but it'll probably be
cheaper to order it. Try a search for Majestic Mountain Sage. Can't remember the url
at the moment. It'll probably save you some money. The beeswax can also be had there,
if you have trouble finding a local bee keeper to get it from. The Crisco and canola
oil are at your local grocery.

Good lube, IMO. I shoot it in a Saeco #745 bullet, and that bullet is oft criticized for
barely carrying enough lube. Works in my 30" barrel, anyway. FWIW?

************************************************** ***************************************


Lead pots Lube. (Blackpowder lube)

6 cups unmelted soy wax.
½ cup Jojoba oil.
½ cup mutton tallow, or you can use beef tallow. I don’t like it as well.
1/3 cup unsalted lard.
1/3 cup liquid Bayberry wax.

This is a good lube I made it for my knurled bullets.
You can thicken this out by adding soy or using less to thin it or add more lard to make
it softer
If it gets to hot add Palm Vegetable wax or use block Bayberry wax instead of liquid
Bayberry wax.
Palm wax melts at about 160*

If you cant find Tallow it is easy enough to make.
Go to a butcher shop and ask for fat trimmings most will gladly give to you.
Cut it in small chunks or better yet grind it. Put it in a large pot and ½ the amount
of water and slow boil it for about 4 hours at a low temp.
Strain it out with a sieve or cheese cloth and cool it in the fridge.
When solid take off the solid white top and scrape off the bottom till it is clean.
By the way this stuff makes a darn good hand lotion for those bleeding fingers.

************************************************** ***************************************
SMOKELESS

I got tired of being accused of shooting BP on the centerfire line (Alox-beeswax) and
used lube recipes offered on the cast bullet list by Adrian Pittfield and John Paul Jones.

Adrian's Goo ( AKA lithi-Bee)
1 part Beeswax
1 part Lithium auto lube cartridge
mix with heat do not exceed flashpoint labeled on cartridge (225degrees iirc) does not
require heat to lube bullets

Recipe for Saeco Green Bullet Lube (A soft lube, equal to 50/50 Alox/Beewax)
2 lbs Beeswax
2 lbs Paraffin
1 lb STP Oil Treatment
(It is possible that a small amount of Stearic Acid (Stearine) will make the lube harder.)
(Temperature 140F (60C) for lube sold currently by Redding).

Saeco Green is less smoky than Adrian's Goo and both are less smoky than Alox Beeswax but
needs 105 degrees (41C) in luber-sizer. YODAR
(It is probable that Yodar used a candle wax with stearine instead of pure paraffin. That
would explain the need for a lube heater).

************************************************** *****************************************

SMOKELESS

This is "ole Junior." My 411 lube is by volume

4 parts cleaned Mississippi Delta cotton field beeswax
1 part lithium automotive grease
1 part Dexron ATF fluid

Heat and
mix well. If the lithium doesn't want to blend, carefully increase heat.

When cooled, the lube is pink in color but otherwise the consistency of Alox stick. The
lube is also easy to make--and cheap. Also good for pan lubing. I figure enough to equal
the volume of an Alox stick cost 25 cents vs $3.50+ for the Alox stick.
I've tested 411 lube extensively in two Model 94 30-30 rifles to 1950 fps with a few rounds
going 2000 fps+. All results equaled zero leading and a mirror-like bore. When my 450
Lubrisizer runs out of Alox stick, I'm pouring the reservoir full of 411.

************************************************** ******************************************
Black Powder

from an old American Rifleman magazine

10 pounds paraffin (40%)
10 pounds tallow (40%)
5 pounds beeswax (20%)

They say that mutton tallow is best but beef tallow works just fine

************************************************** ******************************************
The February 1943 issue of the American Rifleman (p.31) has an excellent article on bullet
lubrication.
Though nearly 60 years old, this article is still valuable.
Within it are two old-time recipes for bullet lubricant worth passing along. These are both
recipes used by factory ammo-makers long ago, in the 19th century and perhaps before that.
I have used the recipe for outside-lubricated bullets for some time. It is nearly identical
to SPG Lubricant.
I have used it in reloading the .32 Long Colt with outside lubricated bullets and it works
very well.
I also soak felt wads with it, for use between the ball and powder in my cap and ball
revolvers and it works great. The bore bears only a trace of fouling when such a greased
wad is used under the ball. Seat the greased felt wad firmly down on the powder, then go
back and seat the ball.
I've also used it to a limited extent for lubricating soft lead bullets in my .45-70 with
black powder loads, with success.
This outside-lubricated bullet lube was once used in .22 rimfires and center fires such as
the .32, .38 and .41 Long Colt.
It is still useful today.
I mix it in a quart Mason jar, set in a low pan of boiling water. The ingredients are
measured then added to the jar. I stir them with a disposable chopstick found at oriental
restaurants. When cool and set-up, tighten the lid on the lubricant and store it in a
cool, dry place.
This creates a medium-hard lubricant that really softens black powder fouling.

I have not used the inside-lubricated bullet lubricant but thought it might be of interest
for those who wish to duplicate the old-time loads, right down to the lubricant

OUTSIDE LUBRICATED BULLET LUBE
1 part paraffin (I use paraffin sticks found in the canning section of grocery stores).
1 part tallow (I use sheep tallow, sold by Dixie Gun Works)
1/2 part beeswax (Available as a toilet seal in hardware stores)

CENTER FIRE BULLET LUBRICANT
9 parts Japan Wax (available from Dixie Gun Works or some hardware stores in the furniture
refinishing area).
4-1/2 parts paraffin
4-1/2 parts beeswax

A few more things: I suggest you mix these outside to avoid friction with the Hausfrau.
And always use a double-boiler method, or set your jar in a heavy iron skillet and use a
low temperature to melt and mix the ingredients.
These lubricants will flash and catch on fire if subjected to higher temperatures, just
as any grease will.
Keep a box of Baking Soda handy, away from the stove (so you don't have to reach across
flames to get it) to extinguish any fire. Throwing water on the grease fire will only
spread it.

Enjoy these old bullet lubricants.

************************************************** ******************************************

[Hip's Ax]

------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ideal Handbook #15
From the Ideal Handbook, ca. 1904:
Recipe #1: Three parts beeswax to two parts cylinder oil
Recipe #2: Vaseline with enough parafin as required to harden it
Recipe #3: Japan wax with sperm whale oil to soften it
Notes:
'Japan Wax' is the wax of the carnauba tree. Commonly used as ski wax.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Horace Kephart's Lube
From the Ideal Handbook, ca. 1904:
"Melt over a slow fire three parts of of crude ozocerite and two parts vaseline. That is
all there is to it. The proportions may be varied to suit individual notions; but I have
found that the above compund needs no modification for any range of temperature that we
have at St. Louis. "
From Sharpe:
"Horace Kephart's lubricant. Crude ozocerite, 3 parts; vaseline, 2 parts. Melt together
in a double boiler. If too hard for your rifle, soften it by adding more vaseline." Notes:
Horace Kephart is the designer of the Kephart style of bullet.
Ozocerite is a mineral wax dug out of the ground like coal. The refined wax goes under the
name cerasine. The refined version does not work as well as the crude.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tom Ballard
From a conversation with a friend:
"Half beeswax, half toilet wax"
This is what I was told when I found a coffee can marked 'Tom's Magic Lube' in a friends
reloading room.
Notes:
Tom Ballard is a mould maker here in Montana
'Toilet Wax' is, I am told, the wax gasket applied when installing a toilet. Stranger
things have been used.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Niedner Mixture
From Sharpe's Handloading:
Japan Wax Acheson's graphite #1340
"To a half pound of of melted Japan Wax add four heaping tablespoons of powdered Acheson's
graphite #1340. The melted mixture must not be too hot, and the graphite must be added a
little at a time and stirred continuously. When the entire amount has been added, remove
the mixture from the heat supply, and continue stirring. This is very important. If left
to stand in a melted mixture the graphite will seperate from the wax.
Notes:
I have no idea about the Acheson's #1340
'Japan Wax' is the wax of the carnauba tree. Commonly used as ski wax.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Herrick Mixture
From Sharpe's Handloading:
Japan Wax Beeswax Cylinder or castor oil
"...equal parts of beeswax and Japan wax with a small quantity of cylinder oil or castor
oil, the latter added primarily to soften the mass...the smallest amount should be used.
The oil will 'sweat out' if lubricated bullets or loaded cartridges are stored for several
months."
Notes:
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Henry Beverage Lube
From the Cast Bullet Mailing List (CB-L):
Yellow vaseline 2 oz. mutton tallow 4 oz. japan wax 10 oz. beeswax 6 oz. crude ozocerite
6 oz. gunslick grease 1 tube per 6 oz. of mixture
Notes:
Formula atrributed to Leopold
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Charlie Dell #36
From Shooter's Talk:
Lithium stearate - 1 part by weight 600W worm gear oil - 1 part beeswax - 1 part lanolin -
1 part synaceti - 1 part
Mix everything except the beeswax at about 400 degrees F. Mix will melt, then jell, then
melt again. Pour in the melted beeswax and bring back up to heat until it all melts and no
gel remains.
Notes:
Synaceti 125 is available from some candle shops and is a substitute for spermacetti.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Charlie Dell #48
From the Cast Bullet Mailing List (CB-L):
Beeswax - 10 parts by weight Peanut oil - 5 parts anhydrous lanolin - 4 parts lithium
stearate - 5 parts gunslick grease - 1 tube per 6 oz. of mixture
The waxes and oils are melted together and allowed to cool until they just start to harden.
Then the Li stearate is mixed in. It will look like tan mud. Reheat and keep raising the
temp. stirring at frequent intervals. First it will start to gel and turn translucent,
then will finally melt around 400F. It must be poured into moulds at this point because
when the temp drops slightly it will gel again.
Notes:
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Charlie Dell #53
From the Cast Bullet Mailing List (CB-L):
Beeswax 20 gm. anhydrous lanolin 5 gm. castile soap (Kirks) 2 gm. castor oil 5 gm.
Notes:
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Manny, Hil, & Metzler
From the Cast Bullet Mailing List (CB-L):
Tallow 1 oz. ozocerite 2 oz. japan wax 2 oz. beeswax 5 oz. steam cyl. oil 1 oz.
Notes:
This is probably an excellent pan lube
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Leopold #245 - From the Cast Bullet Mailing List (CB-L):
Japan wax 4 1/2 oz. tallow 9 oz. ozocerite 1 1/2 oz. lye 1/2 oz. rosin 1/2 oz. water 8 oz.
Boil until froth disappears. Mix, boil with lye and water, cool and remove cake from water,
wash and form into sticks for pump. High melting point, not for pan lube.
Notes:
This is probably typical of Leopolds formulas.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Donaldson's Lube - From the Cast Bullet Mailing List (CB-L):
Beef tallow 6 oz. beeswax 4 oz. rosin 2 oz.
Notes:
Harvey Donaldson was a responsible for several cartridges inc. the .219 Donaldson Wasp.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
N.H. Robert's #1 - From the Cast Bullet Mailing List (CB-L):
Beeswax 6 oz. beef tallow 2oz steam cyl. oil 3 tsp.
Notes:
Ned Roberts was the designer of the .257 Roberts ----------------------------------
N.H. Robert's #2 - From the Cast Bullet Mailing List (CB-L):
Crude Ozocerite 1 part yellow beeswax 1 part Japan wax 1 part mutton tallow 1 part
Notes:
Ned Roberts was the designer of the .257 Roberts
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Roderick #1 Hard - From the Cast Bullet Mailing List (CB-L):
Beeswax 4 oz. mutton tallow 3 1/8 oz. Mobil 600 wt, steam cyl. oil 7/8 oz.
Notes:
For use at 80 deg. F and above
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Roderick #2 Medium - From the Cast Bullet Mailing List (CB-L):
Beeswax 3 1/8 oz. Mutton tallow 4 oz. Mobil 600 wt. steam cyl. oil 7/8 oz.
Notes:
For use between 55 and 80 deg. F
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Pope Lube - From the Cast Bullet Mailing List (CB-L):
Beeswax 2 oz. Bayberry wax 4 oz. mutton tallow 6 oz. steam cyl. oil 2 oz. Acheson graphite
#1340 170 gr.
Notes:
If you don't know who Harry Pope was, your mommy shouldn't be letting you play with bullets.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Barry Darr #1 - From the Cast Bullet Mailing List (CB-L):
Paraffin 50% Vasaline 50% old RCBS case lube 1 tbs per lb. of mix
Notes:
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Barry Darr #2 - From the Cast Bullet Mailing List (CB-L):
Paraffin 50% Vasaline 50%
Notes:
Same as Barry Darr #1 but minus the RCBS case lube

************************************************** ******************************************

"Have you ever lubed rifle bullets to be launched beyond 2K fps with just beeswax blended
with a little jojoba oil?"

YES, I have it will work, but I still like the liquid lanolin because of the flex and tack
it supplies. Plus it allows me to make a soft enough lube without inducing flyers.

pure jojoba oil added at the rate of 2 TBLSP's per pound "works" but it has no flex and in
my simulated winter shooting tests I had erratic performance. simply adding more did not
make the brittle nature or standard deviation problem go away.

1TBLSP jojoba and 1TBLSP liquid lanolin to 1 pound cappings grade yellow hard beeswax will
cover 90 percent of what any of us wants in a lube. Adding johnsons seems to shinify the
bore, but it makes the lube too soft so you need more wax, and the orange oil seems to
also have a solvent effect so I keep it. Before I knew it I ended up with the 5 pound
batches I quoted earlier. The ivory is not totally neccessary either, but if you cool
it rapidly in the freezer you will see why it can be important, plus it raises melt point
a bit. I have also played with some recipes using microcrysstalline wax, but they need
some tweaking yet. For the most part of this journey I have simply thought too hard, but
in the end I am happy with this.

MIKES MAGICAL MYSTERY LUBE
5 lbs beeswax
1 TBLSP Ivory
1 TBLSP Jojoba
2 TBLSP natural orange oil
1 TBLSP Johnsons p.w
1 TBLSP liquid lanolin
colored candle dye or chips of you choosing ( I will use orange or red if I ever run low
on lube) which will be at least a day or two.

I just hope I spared at least one person from going through the insanity of it all. It was
an expensive lesson, but fun none the least.

EDIT: One more thing DO NOT ever add something like kroil to a lube I did and it showed
promise at first, but a couple a weeks later them loads leaded to beat the band. All I
can figure is that the kroil slowly creeps into the pores of the lead and actually softens
the skin of a boolit.
************************************************** ******************************************
The only thing I do know about this recipe is...it came from Dan Theodore, and it was
posted on the BPCR (dot) net site a long time ago.
CM

"Great For Hot, Dry Conditions" - sourced from Dan Theodore

Ingredients, Procedures, Notes, etc.

All measures are by volume.

4 parts refined beeswax
2 parts LubeGard's "Valve and Assembly Lubricant"
2 parts anhydrous lanolin.

OR

5 parts refined beeswax
3 parts LubeGard
2 parts anhydous lanolin. "This makes a dandy lube for dry, hot conditions."

Note: LubeGard should be available at any NAPA Auto Supply store.
Note: Refined beeswax and anhydrous lanolin are available from:
http://www.from-nature-with-love.com/soap/.

Melt the beeswax and anhydrous lanolin in a double boiler. Once both are well melted,
add the LubeGard and stir for a minute. This lube works well for pan-lubing, as well
as through a lube-sizer.
************************************************** ******************************************
I have used Emmert's Home Mix for both Black Powder and Smokeless loads with excellent
results:
50% pure natural beeswax, 40% Crisco, and 10% Canola Oil (all measurements by volume).
Melt using a double boiler (overheating damages the lube).

A refinement is to reduce the Canola Oil by half and replace that half with Anhydrous
Lanolin. So, the improved Emmert's is:
50% beeswax, 40% Crisco, 5% Canola Oil, and 5% Lanolin.

************************************************** ******************************************
************************************BPCR.net lube list**************************************


50% Beeswax
50% Ballistol

Vary the Beeswax up or down for a patch lube or bullet lube. I melt the Beeswax in a Pyrex
Measuring cup in the microwave. Then add the Ballistol, stir, and pour into a plastic
microwavable container to cool. It can easily be re-melted to adjust the mixture.

The rich, pungent, aroma of the Ballistol adds to the enjoyment.

Jack Roberts, silhoutte4570


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


"Great For Hot, Dry Conditions" - sourced from Dan Theodore

Ingredients, Procedures, Notes, etc.

All measures are by volume.

4 parts refined beeswax
2 parts LubeGard's "Valve and Assembly Lubricant"
2 parts anhydrous lanolin.

OR

5 parts refined beeswax
3 parts LubeGard
2 parts anhydous lanolin. "This makes a dandy lube for dry, hot conditions."

Note: LubeGard should be available at any NAPA Auto Supply store.
Note: Refined beeswax and anhydrous lanolin are available from:
http://www.from-nature-with-love.com/soap/.

Melt the beeswax and anhydrous lanolin in a double boiler. Once both are well melted,
add the LubeGard and stir for a minute. This lube works well for pan-lubing, as well
as through a lube-sizer.


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"Emmerts" - provided by Ken Hurst

This is an old lube but still has a following and has never failed me when using it
for Black Powder. I understand it can be used for smokeless if you are using
low-pressure loads.

50% bees wax
40% Crisco or lard
10% canola oil

I heat this in a dbl boiler to mix. Do not heat in a micro wave as it offers too much
heat usually. I fill my lubasizer with the lube while it is hot and it works well. I
have also pan lubed with good success.


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"1995 Lube" - sourced from Paul Matthews

2 parts yellow beeswax
1 part Pure Neatsfoot Oil
1 part Murphy’s Oil Soap

(easy to make in 8-oz batches)

1) Melt 4 oz of beeswax in the microwave. Usually 6-8 minutes is about the right time.
2) Stir in 2 oz of Neatsfoot oil when beeswax is melted. Stir until the mixture is lumpfree.
3) Stir in 2 oz of Murphy’s Oil Soap, stirring continuously as the soap is added. Again,
mix until there are no lumps.
4) Pour into storage containers as soon as batch is well mixed.

Very soft and sticky. Will not melt in the sun, but works well in the cold, too.
NOT suitable for pan lubing.


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“Shows Promise Lube” - sourced from Paul Matthews

8 oz Yellow Beeswax
4 fl oz Pure Neatsfoot Oil
1 cake (3 .5 oz) Neutrogena Facial Soap

1) melt the beeswax over a low fire
2) stir in the neatsfoot oil until lumpfree
3) cut the soap into fine peels, then add to the melted mixture.

Don’t boil the mixture. A very sticky bullet lube. Looks to be very good.


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Here are some bullet lubes I have used with very good results in the hot shooting
weather of the west. - Mystery Guest

13 oz of beeswax
5 oz of peanut oil
1/2 stick of 50/50 alox
1 oz of anhydrous lanolin

6 oz of beef tallow
4 oz bayberry wax
2 oz beeswax
2 oz synthetic sperm oil
1 heaping teaspoon of Moly

6 oz of beeswax
3 oz of bayberry wax
6 oz of bacon grease
1 tablespoon of Dawn soap
2 tablespoon of neatsfoot oil

40% beeswax
30% conola oil
30% lanolin
......................this looks and feels a lot like SPG

70% Soywax
20% Avocado oil
10% lanolin
......................this is good for cooler weather, spring/fall


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Emmerts – for Texas Heat - source unknown

50% beeswax
40% Crisco
10% jojoba by volume

.......................this lube will not foul a .45-2.6 34” barrel


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Recipe One

One part clean beeswax
Three parts rendered and refined deer tallow
One part stale canola oil (kitchen reject don't you know)
Powdered graphite (I don't think the graphite play much of a part as it settled out in
cooling)

I just shot my C.Sharps hunting gun (74) for the first time at any distance two weeks
ago and got a three and a half inch 4 shot group at 300 measued yards with this lube,
a Saeco 411 gr 40 cal. bullet silver blade front sight and C. Sharps 108 hunting tang
sight cranked up as high as it would go. I would have gone for more rounds but I ran
out after walking them up on to the target. I had never shot it farther than 100 yards
before. It is a 40-70 SS and I used 70 gr by volume of older Goex 2f. I'm a little
worried about the powder. I store it in a chicken coop in a styrofoam cooler and when
I tried to pour it out of the can there were big lumps in it. I had to shake the heck
out of it to break up the lumps. It has been froze and thawed on and off for at least
5 years maybe longer. I bought it from Coonie's back when Goex was $6.03 per can in
case lots with shipping. I used this lube to kill a couple of deer and to shoot bowling
pins and steel targets in the yard.

Another traditional one I like. (I substitute jojoba for sperm whale oil.)

One part clean beeswax
Three parts rendered then refined buffalo tallow
One part Jojoba oil (killed a buffalo with this one)

Cold weather muzzle loader patch lube is:

Two parts rendered then refined coon oil (two coons will provide a quart or more of
rendered oil and good barbeque plus 20 bucks for the hides)
One part buffalo tallow (this lube melts as you rub it into the patch even below zero)

After I render oils and fats I recook them with water for a while then let them cool
until they crust over. I break the floating disc off the water and scrape off the dirt
and jelly like junk that clings to the bottom of the disc. I do this to try to eliminate
any naturally occuring salts in the animal fat. I used to bear oil my muzzle loaders
and they'd rust over night in a damp tent until I started water cooking the salt outa
the fat.

Duke Munger

[357maximum]

No message

[Molly]

From Molly:

Lee and Lyman sell "liquid Alox", and it works pretty well.

The formula for Alox 2138F (no longer available) is as follows:

Material Wt %
Melt in a double boiler:
Alox 350 7.00 (The exact amount isn’t critical. Use 10 or 20 parts if you want.)
Slowly stir in until dissolved
Petrolite C-700 3.00 (Microcrystalline wax)
Blend until fully melted and dissolved.
Add slowly with good mixing:
Alox 350 90.00 (Remainder for a total of 97 parts Alox 350)
Blend until uniform. 100.00 Alox 2138F

To make the NRA lube, you can now add 100 parts weight of melted clean, pure yellow beeswax to the preceding and mix well.

The NRA lube can be molded as you may desire. I’ve found it convenient to just pour it into small cans or even muffin tins. When I need to refill a sizer, it’s simple enough to set the can (or a muffin sized block in an aluminum measuring cup) in simmering hot water to melt the lube, and pour it into the sizer. Allow to cool well before using.

If you simply MUST have it in stick form, solder a tube of the desired diameter near the bottom of a gallon can, and open on both sides, and deburr. Fill the can with water and ice, and pour the tube full of molten lube. It'll harden pretty quickly, and can be pushed out with a stick. If you MUST have a hollow tube of lube, insert an old valve rod in the center opposite the fill side. (Play with a jig to hold it center.)Then pull it out before you eject the lube.

Alox 350 is one of a series of "oxidized petroleum fractions" (ie, partially burnt grease) originally developed by Alox Corp, of Niagra Falls, NY. However, they are now defunct, and the Alox line has been taken over by Lubrizol Corporation, who discontinued the Alox 2138F as too low in sales volume, but continues to offer the Alox 350 and a number of other Alox products, including the stuff sold as "Liquid Alox". You should be able to find them easily on the net at: http://corporate.lubrizol.com/.

Regards,
Molly

[44man]

Felix lube, I cut a 3-1/2" by 3-1/2" by 1" block of beeswax and it comes out to 6 oz. Lube is a little soft so I would go to about 7 oz. Maybe even 8 oz. Can't hurt anything. I have to harden a batch to see. I don't like paraffin that much so will try just beeswax. I have carnauba if needed.

[Dick Dastardly]

Equal parts by weight.

Container blend Soy wax flakes
wax toilet bowl ring
cheep vegetable shortening

Melt in double boiler with occasional stirring. Pour in forms.

The formula for Pearl Lube II will not be given.

DD-DLoS

[yeahbub]

There may be similar ones posted, but here are what I use:

541:
5 parts beeswax
4 parts Crisco
1 part anhydrous lanolin, by volume
Melt and stir until thoroghly mixed before allowing to cool. A double boiler keeps it from scorching. It works well on conventional cast boolits, but I've never driven it beyond 1800fps or so. Hardness can be adjusted to suit by varying the Crisco or the beeswax. Melts at 130 deg F.

541 Soft:
1 part 541
1 part Bore Butter/Thompson Center 1000 Plus in the tube, by volume.
I prefer the pine scented Bore Butter. Melt and stir thoroughly and allow to cool. Works great for lube cookies when made into sheets by melting in the outside bottoms of "butter cookie cans" on a level surface with a heat lamp, cooling, and putting in the freezer when solid, which will pop it loose. Also good for under-the-ball/boolit use in C&B revolvers with an over-the-powder card wad, on Maxis, Lee R.E.A.Ls & cetera.

[SHOOTER IN EXILE]

For years I have been using a 50/50 mix by volume, beeswax and common animal fat for bullet lubing and also for resizing shells for pistol and rifle. I like to keep it simple, cheap and easy to get. Didn't notice any difference with commercial lube, in accuracy or barrel leading. I find it better than other lubes for resizing. Please note that it is a slow procedure. I usually reload between 200 and 300 rounds in one session. With all due respect for the formulas posted by other members.

[Molly]

For years I have been using a 50/50 mix by volume, beeswax and common animal fat for bullet lubing and also for resizing shells for pistol and rifle. ... With all due respect for the formulas posted by other members.

Isn't it strange that nobody has noticed that since just about everything you can think of - including talcum powder - has been used more or less successfully in bullet lubes, (as witnessed by the plethora of recipies listed here and elsewhere. ) In turn, that suggests that darn near anything CAN be used as a bullet lube, depending on the severity of the load.

I happen to like the various Alox based lubes, but I'm well aware that genericly, they are all what one might call 'burnt grease' ("oxidized petroleum fractions...". And they not only make great bullet lube, they make darn good resizing lube too. You can cut them with a bit of lighter fluid to make them easier to spray on cases, or to roll cases on a soaked rag.
Molly

[buck1]

This one works well for high vel rifle as well as mag pistol in hot and COLD weather.
It stays on the boolits well, does not run on hot days, and flows without heat through my lube sizer.
I love this stuff! Its a cross between Joes/ leftoverjds with a few tricks from Felixs WFL.
In a crock pot melt 3 parts bees wax and 1 part lithum wheel bearing grease. to about 300 F its hard to mix.
-----Caution this is close to the flash point of the bees wax.---------
Mix, mix and mix some more and let cool. as bees wax can vary in hardness you can now get a rough idea of what you have. Look for a uniform mix (no little lumps) of the grease.
Now reheat and mix again as you still most likely have some little lumps to deal with and add small ammounts of carnauba wax to stiffen (paraffin would mess up the cold weather aspect of this lube).
Repeate this melting and testing several times untill you get the stiffness you like. It seems to help the lube mix better by cooling and reheating many times anyway. But do it outside and dont forget about the flash point.
Nothing else that I have made or bought will do as well for me as this stuff!