Getting ready to cut up a sailboat keel weighing 2740lb. Going to use a chainsaw to cut it. Do I really need to use something like used motor oil to pour on while cutting? Don't really want to deal with oil everywhere. Thanks, Tom
|
   
   
|
|
Getting ready to cut up a sailboat keel weighing 2740lb. Going to use a chainsaw to cut it. Do I really need to use something like used motor oil to pour on while cutting? Don't really want to deal with oil everywhere. Thanks, Tom
Your chainsaw comes with oil
I own a Outdoor Power Equipment bussiness and the oil is to lubricte the bar and chain to reduce wear on them. If you dont use the oil it will heat them up and exspand them to the point of siesure.
Steve, TIMBER-N-TURF SAW & LAWNMOWER
He meant in addition to the chain bar oil...
Oh and lead itself is a lubricant...remember leaded gas.Originally Posted by cdngunner
Read the description for info on what he did.
Lead bullets Matter
There are three kinds of men: The ones that learn by reading. The few who learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence and find out for themselves. - Will Rodgers
Make sure you raise the keel off the ground and put something under and around the area to catch lead shavings. WEAR EYE PROTECTION!
Once you're done, wire brush the piss out of that chain and inside the adjustment cover to ensure you get ALL of the lead out of it. Sawdust can remain prior to use as it's likely just going to help with fluxing.
I think cutting lead might be more demanding use than the auto oiling system of smaller and general use change saws were designed for. I know some of the heavier duty ones come with manual oiling "trigger" to supplement the auto oiling. But my chainsaw is older than dirt so I may be out of touch with modern systems.
Just cut it like you would a tree. once your in or if your using a dull chain using just the tip of the saw will throw small to respecible size chunks off.
I held a 5 gallon bucket be tween my ankles and roosted the chips right in the bucket.
Photo of the one i cut last week, just alittle guy.
http://s1339.photobucket.com/user/MG...2.jpg.html?o=1
http://s1339.photobucket.com/user/MG...9.jpg.html?o=0
I've got a hell of a chainsaw with a short 24" bar on it, i used a chain that the guy i have do my sharpening tells me to through it away a few times a year. In hindsight one of my nice new chains would probibly been worthwile using.
Wouldn't you want to wear a respirator too?
I'm in the process of cutting one up right now. The oiler on your chainsaw should be enough. Keep it full. Use a tarp to catch the cuttings. The chips are pretty large so you probably don't need a respirator but definitely you want to do this outdoors. I stay upwind.
Oh, and USE EYE PROTECTION!!. When they mold keels they throw all kinds of bolts and stuff in there. And like Psypher said, raise it up off the ground. I put mine on some 2x10's but that was a pain. Now its on some logs about 24" tall and is much easier. Be sure to clean all the lead chips out of the saw when you're done.
I just had my lead levels checked, lead poisoning is almost a myth.poor air quality in indoor ranges is more of a concern and i don't wear a mask while shooting, I was more worried about the fiberglass.
Safety glasses are a good idea.
The guy from the boatyard is going to deliver it to my brothers place. He's going to throw down a big piece of boat shrink wrap and then a pallet. He'll drop it right on the pallet. This weighs in at 2740 lbs. he said he would have another one next year. That one will be easier after I get this one under my belt. Thanks guys
Did some cutting on this yesterday. The first two cuts went well, then the saw stopped cutting. Is there a certain type (tooth) chain that I should be using?
Check your chain for sharpness and or lead smearing - probably just needs a touch up with the file.
You did notice in the video description that he said his saw had to be sharpened after 2 cuts each 34" long" and the saw chain had to be tightened repeatedly.
As for tooth type - no idea but my gut says more aggressive is probably not a bad idea.
je suis charlie
It is better to live one day as a LION than a dozen days as a Sheep.
Thomas Jefferson Quotations:
"The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government."
Pix man, pix!! This begging is embarrassing.
Looking for USGI M1 and carbine rifle parts, please PM me.
Could you torch cut it instead of using a saw?
A carbon torch will cut your lead like butter
You don't want to get lead hot enough to vaporize. Typical casting temps do not put out much lead vapor, carbon torch or oxy/acetylene cutting torch will probably make high end breathing protection mandatory. Weed burner is one potential high volume heat source that is not too high temp. could be used to melt into channel or other large but manageable molds.
I would check the saw chain for lead that is coating or clogging the teeth.
Posting Permissions
| BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
| BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
| BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
| C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
| HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
| PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
| LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
| GC | Gas Check |
Reply With Quote