Super blackhawk ejecting rod housing ejected

[pull the trigger]

I ws firing some stout loads from this thing and the ejecting rod housing tried to escape. The screw sheared off in the threads, but it turns a little, haven't got it out yet. I can't think of any reason the recoil would do this. The brass looked fine and came right out of the cylinder. Should I be worried about the load?

[lar45]

Back in my youth I fed some crazy stupid loads through a Super and regular Blackhawk. I did have the ejector rod housing screw vibrate loose a couple of times and used some Loktite to put them back in place. It's possible that your screw vibrated loose giving the ejector rod housing a little room to batter the screw and break it. Or maybe it was a weak screw to begin with??

It's always a good idea to double check your loads to make sure they are in the safe and sane range.
If you are running a compressed load of 296 with a heavy boolit, you could be in the 45-50k range and still have the brass eject fine.

[C. Latch]

From what I understand, it's not uncommon for this to happen. Ruger should fix it for free, or you could just replace the whole thing with an aftermarket setup.

I love my blackhawk, but while the design is brilliant, the execution leaves room for improvement.

[LUCKYDAWG13]

I did have the ejector rod housing screw vibrate loose a couple of times and used some Loktite to put them back in place.

+1 i had the same thing happen to me it just vibrate out of my SBH

[seaboltm]

It is not an uncommon problem with BH's shooting stout loads. The problem really becomes noticeable with heavy bullets moving fast, which as you know generates a lot of recoil. Some BH owners make this problem worse by using a steel ejector housing, which is more likely to sheer the screw than the aluminum housing due to increased mass. I have seen people simply remove the ejector housing entirely when a steady diet of heavy loads will be the norm.

[44MAG#1]

That is the reason we use loc tite and check frequently for loose screws on a single action. Live and learn. School of hard knocks under ole professor experience.

[375RUGER]

Ruger will send you a new screw for free. I had one that for whatever reason the threads were messed up recoil, improper installation, ??. Put the new one in with loctite and it's been fine since.

[HeavyMetal]

had a 30 carbine BH and spent more time tightening screws than I did shooting it, LOL!


Loctite everything and problem went away!

Hope threads are still good and yes the screw got lose and recoil sheard it off Make sure you load is not to hot and loctite it back on.

[GOPHER SLAYER]

When Colt and Remington designed there side ejection revolvers in the 1870s they solved this problem by putting a steel stud on the barrel and threading the stud. Ruger didn't do that and as been pointed out they went to aluminum housings to help solve the problem. It helped [somewhat] but pistols should be made of steel not aluminum or plastic. It is a misconception that it takes heavy recoiling loads to knock the ejector housing off. Even moderate loads can do this.

[pull the trigger]

Thanks a bunch folks!!

[C. Latch]

When Colt and Remington designed there side ejection revolvers in the 1870s they solved this problem by putting a steel stud on the barrel and threading the stud. Ruger didn't do that.

I'd guess that a good pistolsmith could come up with some gorgeous ideas on how to bring back that stud. How about dimpling the barrel in order to index a barrel band designed to be integral with the housing? Hmmm. If only I had wads of cash laying around.....

[44man]

Loose screw like everyone said. First time I shot 320 gr boolits from mine, I sheared 3 grip frame screws. I bought all new ones from Ruger, dirt cheap and keep some extras.
The only solution is Loc-Tite and to check them all the time.
I now shoot my 330 gr boolit all the time with no problems. The ERH will loosen faster then any other screw.

[GOPHER SLAYER]

Some on this website have shared pictures of their Ruger BH that had broken off the aluminum grip frame when shooting stout loads and heavy bullets.

[Heavy lead]

The 3 screw Supers and Blackhawks did have a stud, as did early New Models (I have two like this). The stud is a better setup, but the first thing I do with any Blackhawk when I get it after trigger jobs is to degrease and locktite all the screws, then after each shooting session make sure they haven't backed out. I do use all steel ejector housings too, even though they are heavier have never broken one.

[Whiterabbit]

happened to my BFR. Frankly, I had plenty of warning, but I was checking. That was years ago. Sent back, they fixed it, and was never a problem again.

Lesson learned is that if the screw backs out, don't screw around with retightening it, go straight to the Loctite. Wont hold otherwise.

[Lonegun1894]

Mine snapped while using very moderate loads, more like slightly warm .44 Special loads than light .44 Mag loads. Ruger fixed it for free, and Loctite has kept it from happening again so far.

[shooting on a shoestring]

Even my Single Six in 32 H&R will back out the ERH screw unless I use a thread locker.
Locktite is fine. Has a couple of grades to choose from regarding holding strength.
I use fingernail polish on my screws. It locks about like the lowest grade of Locktite. I like to be able to take them out when I want without buggering up a screw slot. I also keep fingernail polish around to touch up my front sight blades every now and then. Someone on here suggested light blue on the front sight and that works well for me.

[pull the trigger]

Ruger is sending a new screw. Meanwhile I duct taped her back together.