It's strange how some methods are working for some people and not others. I tried with some old copper plated BB's and it didn't work worth a darn and yet that YouTube vid shows the guy got it to work just fine with HF yellow. I don't get it.
It's strange how some methods are working for some people and not others. I tried with some old copper plated BB's and it didn't work worth a darn and yet that YouTube vid shows the guy got it to work just fine with HF yellow. I don't get it.
Strange. I have read that others had success with copper bb-s.
Iam not so damn sure that it is only about static charge. Bullets in the bowl are not grounded... When I lay my hands on some powder I will test a few setups if noone does it till then, but right now I am into other projects.
It even worse when you do the same thing as before and get different results. I've had great luck previously, but my last two coating sessions I've been unable to get HF Red + #5 Container to leave more than a very light dusting of powder on my boolits. Once I bake the light coat, the next coat sticks just fine. Arg!
And I've tried 3 different kinds of nitrile gloves now, and had 3 failures, while others make it look so great.It even worse when you do the same thing as before and get different results.
I'm thinking of employing my Ouija board now, and building a small pyramid structure over it and handle the boolits under that as I burn some raspberry incense and play In-A-Gadda-Da-Vida loudly in the room.
This glove thing has whipped me!
KE4GWE - - - - - - Colt 1860, it just feels right.
I was just brainstorming:
- I doubt that it is about static charge when doing the DryTumble magic. (someone having a PowderPaint Spray gun should play a bit to see what difference it makes by connecting it to the tumbler)
- My guess that it's more about the surface of the lead (I agree with humidity issues)
Therefore my questions:
- Do you all use similar alloys?
- Does everyone resize castings before DryTumble powdering?
- If so, resizing process is ABSOLUTELY FREE of any lubricant, grease, oil? If not, does everyone clean / treat castings with solvent and surface activator before tumbling?
PowderCoat paint design rely on static attraction but when DryTumbling in my opinion this does not play. The surfaces might play a bigger role. also for the bb-s. If powder does not stick to the bb at all, then it just rubs powder off from the bullet rather than aiding the layer build-up.
Maybe...
But without going into deep wild-guessings: I know a laboratory specialized on paint development and examination, I should just ask them about all of this when I have some free time.
Should have more results than with woodo-stuff
Last edited by hunserv; 07-16-2014 at 03:59 AM.
The powder DOES stick to the black BB's. In spades. My black ones are now red, blue, and every color I use.
It IS the static....just try adding a bit of graphite or moly (static killers) to your next batch! (Oh I forgot, you do not have any powder yet.) Absolutely ZERO coating! Gun powder manufacturers add graphite to their powders to minimize static during metering and flow.
And the powder will stick to virtually ANY object you put in there, whether lead, copper, steel, or anything else......due to the static.
You have no powder and have not experienced the actual process to see how it/why works. Get some red powder at HF and try it. You will see!
My sizing dies have never seen grease! And I resize after casting AND after coating.
I NEVER clean my boolits B4 coating...never has a need to.
And if you state it is NOT about the static, then why do the guys in the high humidity areas have so much trouble this time of year getting good coatings, when they could get them last winter using the exact same procedure, when the RH was much lower? Sounds like static to me!
Again, get some powder.............try it................ and see!
bangerjim
Casting has always involved a certain amount of black magic. I think coatings are just going to be that much more black magic. I get that it has to involve some static but I too have swirled bullets in a bowl only to have the next batch cast from the same lead not want to stick the same as the previous bullets. It's weird. Maybe we need to stand on a carpet and scuff our feet back and forth while doing the shakey shake...
[QUOTE=hunserv;2857566]I was just brainstorming:
- I doubt that it is about static charge when doing the DryTumble magic. (someone having a PowderPaint Spray gun should play a bit to see what difference it makes by connecting it to the tumbler)
- My guess that it's more about the surface of the lead (I agree with humidity issues)
Therefore my questions:
- Do you all use similar alloys?
- Does everyone resize castings before DryTumble powdering?
- If so, resizing process is ABSOLUTELY FREE of any lubricant, grease, oil? If not, does everyone clean / treat castings with solvent and surface activator before tumbling?
PowderCoat paint design rely on static attraction but when DryTumbling in my opinion this does not play. The surfaces might play a bigger role. also for the bb-s. If powder does not stick to the bb at all, then it just rubs powder off from the bullet rather than aiding the layer build-up.
Maybe...
But without going into deep wild-guessings: I know a laboratory specialized on paint development and examination, I should just ask them about all of this when I have some free time.
Should have more results than with voodoo-stuff [/Quot
I suggest you stop guessing and start trying. Over thinking is futile especially when others have already proven methods.
I tried the steel BB's in a tumbler as a first try at powder coating. I thought it would work, possibly better than swirling in a plastic bowl. Those were #2 steel shot, but the lack of a copper wash meant nothing to the total failure of the experiment. I went with what's been working for others, #5 plastic bowl HF red powder coat. It produced some real nicely coated boolits.
I was going to change the tumbler back to brass mode, I dumped the steel shot back into it's can. Somebody had said they tried the airsoft BB's in a vib tumbler, and it worked. I already had a bowl messed up with red powder, so I dumped some fresh airsoft BB's and some more powder in along with about 100 .308 190 grainer's. Success! Then I did the same with about 60 .223 60 grainer's, again it worked. The only problem with the 22's is finding them in the media!
Don't be afraid to try something new, it might be the next breakthrough.
He is your friend, your partner, your defender, your dog.
You are his life, his love, his leader. He will be yours, faithful and true, to the last beat of his heart.
You owe it to him to be worthy of such devotion."
“At the worst, if he fails, at least fails while daring greatly, so that his place shall never be with those cold and timid souls who know neither victory nor defeat”--Theodore Roosevelt
^^^^^^^^^AGREE^^^^^^^^^^^^^
banger
Yep, I might be wrong with the brainstorm... If you tested all you just mentioned then I am not going to repeat them all just to see it does not work
I am in Europe so i guess HF is not available but I will try to find alternative sources.
Thanks for the tips and info!
For static to attract all that's required is opposite polarities- one thing has an excess of electrons and the other has a deficiency. A connection to earth ground is not involved.
The 'ground' wire on the HF gun is just the other terminal of the power supply.
"The urge to save humanity is almost always a false front for the urge to rule." --H. L. Menchen
Most of us here are familiar with the process, some are not. I hope this helps answer some of the questions. I did a video on DTBB airsoft method. Let's hope this helps.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qmUH...ature=youtu.be
Ebner
I wonder what would happen if you lined a bowl with aluminum foil leaving some hanging out before sealing. Hook up negative alligator clip to exposed foil from pc gun, step on pedal and try the dry tumble method....hummmm?!?!?
Isn't that what ryokox3 was doing? http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...thod-Hybrid-DT
KE4GWE - - - - - - Colt 1860, it just feels right.
Thanks Beagle333.... I didn't see that post! Awesome!
I got some red & tried the DT...Learned one thing in a hurry...make sure the lid is on tight...
I was working @ 75% humidity, having difficulty gettin a good coating on 45's, I threw in some 30"s & seemed to get better results shaking the assortment...either that or the fact that I had on examination gloves at the time... shows promise, can't wait to try lower humidity.....
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/cust...pic31753_1.gif
"They sicken of the calm, who knew the storm." Dorothy Parker
Y'know.... I thought he was practicing the dark arts too. I was just tryin' to draw him out. Shame on you , Bob!
KE4GWE - - - - - - Colt 1860, it just feels right.
THAT OLDE BLAQUE MAJIK:
Eye of squirrel..........tongue of frog,
Tail of cat.............ear of dog.
No.......wait..........that's my receipe for BBQ sauce!
Ha..........ha!
banger
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |